Koolance Copper Radiators

Odd placement of the barbs, but other than that it looks good. Koolance is turning around from the aluminum and getting into some of the high performing parts now (I've got a 350AT block on my 920 ATM, so my bashing of their products is limited to all of their older products) You can get Thermochill PA120.3's from the UK for under $100 shipped though, so those are still the better buy unless these somehow rock the PA's.
 
For what it's worth, MY hard earned money will never go to Koolance.

ThermoChill makes a far superior product and have been for years...
 
thats a really smart thing to do.... even though they did defend the whole aluminum radiator thing to the end lol. if the price was cheap enough i would defo use their blocks, some of them do look really nice.
 
Odd placement of the barbs, but other than that it looks good. Koolance is turning around from the aluminum and getting into some of the high performing parts now (I've got a 350AT block on my 920 ATM, so my bashing of their products is limited to all of their older products) You can get Thermochill PA120.3's from the UK for under $100 shipped though, so those are still the better buy unless these somehow rock the PA's.

They offer both the horizontal and vertical placement of the nozzles it looks like. I am interested in seeing how these perform.
 
At least Koolance is trying. They're really trying to turn the ship around over there and this looks like a move in the right direction.
 
That's not true! At least 50% of his posts around the net are about how awesome Mountain Mods are.
 
thats a really smart thing to do.... even though they did defend the whole aluminum radiator thing to the end lol. if the price was cheap enough i would defo use their blocks, some of them do look really nice.

I have one of my systems in an old Koolance PC2 integrated watercooling case that's about 7 years old with older koolance blocks. I havent had any corrosion issues and it still runs great with the original pump.

Now that they're really working hard on improving performance I don't see how anyone can dis them.
 
I agree, DeathFromBelow. I've seen lots of people over at xtremesystems raving about their full cover blocks, especially the ones with built-in standoffs. Koolance may have been an easy target in the past, but I'm confident they're getting their act together, which is good for all of us. More competition = more better.
 
I agree, DeathFromBelow. I've seen lots of people over at xtremesystems raving about their full cover blocks, especially the ones with built-in standoffs. Koolance may have been an easy target in the past, but I'm confident they're getting their act together, which is good for all of us. More competition = more better.

Mopst of those who started the raving were given the blocks for free...:eek:

I wonder why they rave about them...;)
 
Mopst of those who started the raving were given the blocks for free...:eek:

I wonder why they rave about them...;)

Yeah, it couldn't be that they perform well and that they have built-in standoffs, could it? It HAS to be because they're free. That's it. Besides, weren't you banned from that forum?
 
well, I'm glad that it looks like Koolance is trying to get its copper act together recently
 
Mopst of those who started the raving were given the blocks for free...:eek:

I wonder why they rave about them...;)

Could be, but mine has performed fantastic since day one. The closest it was to free, was in-stock when I needed a block.

I'm glad I chose them, it was a turning point for myself. 4870, 840/1075, full load core temp 46c at 1.276v? Freaking fantastic for a block 20$ cheaper than EK's at the time (and it was the only one in-stock). Let's not even mention how sexy it is.
blockinstalled-1.jpg


Again, kudos to Koolance for trying here. I've been hard on them in the past, but they've made huge strides to appease the intense water coolers (with reason to, it's where the money is...) and should be commended for it. Credit awarded where credit is due.

That's it. Besides, weren't you banned from that forum?

I would hope so. RRR was a prick to me in every thread I ever started at XS. All 3 of them. Watercooling is an art, and watercoolers should stick together, working towards the development of their field. RRR's attitude is quite counterproductive to this IMO :shrugs:.
 
Yeah, it couldn't be that they perform well and that they have built-in standoffs, could it? It HAS to be because they're free. That's it. Besides, weren't you banned from that forum?

Oh, you mean the one that's run by a clueless bozo who runs RAID0...lmao

You know where I live...

I'm sorry, you don't own your own forum, do you?
 
Could be, but mine has performed fantastic since day one. The closest it was to free, was in-stock when I needed a block.

I'm glad I chose them, it was a turning point for myself. 4870, 840/1075, full load core temp 46c at 1.276v? Freaking fantastic for a block 20$ cheaper than EK's at the time (and it was the only one in-stock). Let's not even mention how sexy it is.
blockinstalled-1.jpg


Again, kudos to Koolance for trying here. I've been hard on them in the past, but they've made huge strides to appease the intense water coolers (with reason to, it's where the money is...) and should be commended for it. Credit awarded where credit is due.

I would hope so. RRR was a prick to me in every thread I ever started at XS. All 3 of them. Watercooling is an art, and watercoolers should stick together, working towards the development of their field. RRR's attitude is quite counterproductive to this IMO :shrugs:.

I think the block looks great and it performs well too, obviously. Nice overclock by the way. And don't worry, you're not the only one that RRR is a prick to, he's a jerk to everybody. He banned me from his "forum" for disagreeing with him and "breaking forum rules". Meanwhile he violated his own rules by swearing at me and engaging in personal attacks but "he doesn't have to follow the rules when he's bitch-slapping a troll" according to his infantile logic.

Oh, you mean the one that's run by a clueless bozo who runs RAID0...lmao

You know where I live...

I'm sorry, you don't own your own forum, do you?

You got banned from that forum for being a dick, because you insulted and continue to insult to everyone who has a different opinion than you. Apparently expressing an opinion and stating facts is bannable at your forum, the "source" (LOL) for liquid cooling, so I'll go somewhere where facts and rational discourse are valued. Fanboys of any kind are some of the most obnoxious people to deal with. You, RRR, are a fanboy of the worst kind.

For the record, disagreeing with you isn't trolling. Swearing at someone because they disagreed with you is trolling. Good try, though.

That block is FUGLY

Yes, we all know that everything that every company makes is utter garbage except for the ones you deem worthy of your divine blessings.
 
It's definitely a welcome change on Koolance' part. I think including a choice on barb direction is neat as well. But I'd obviously argue the bottom line; there are other better rads to be had for the price-point! Bravo to Koolance though for getting their heads straight in regards to their rads.
 
What kind of performance gains do the copper radiators show over the aluminum radiators?

Basically copper is more conductive while aluminum dissipates heat faster.

I don't think there's much of a performance difference between well designed Cu and Al radiators at the size we're dealing with. The big issue people have is the risk of corrosion with aluminum radiators due to mixed metals in the loop.
 
Basically copper is more conductive while aluminum dissipates heat faster.

Actually that's not true at all. Copper is more conductive, but the only merit to aluminum is it's weight... The whole, heat dissipation thing is/was an internet myth :).

The actual benefit to aluminum radiators are their construction. Copper rads use copper fins, soldered to brass tubes. brass is horrible at conducting heat. Additionally, aluminum fins are supposed to be welded directly to the aluminum tubes of the radiator, aiding in heat conduction.

In practice, Aluminum shows no tangible gains over Copper, and isn't worth the corrosion risk.

Nice overclock by the way

Oh, my... I noticed my sig has reverted to a previous version! But yes, I'm testing at 843mhz right now, fully stable. :) I hope to hit 850, but I'm quite happy with my current performance as it is.
 
Actually that's not true at all. Copper is more conductive, but the only merit to aluminum is it's weight... The whole, heat dissipation thing is/was an internet myth :).

True, they both lose heat at the same rate. I was thinking in terms of actual radiators, but even then I guess you're right.

The important thing is that performance wise for a computer there isn't a whole lot of difference. The big issue is corrosion, although as I said earlier I have a 7 year old koolance loop with mixed metals and no corrosion issues.
 
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Not at all, silver doesn't cause a galvanic corrosion reaction. Silver is classified as a "noble metal" as in one that doesn't corrode or oxidize, so you can put as much silver in your loop as barbs, blocks, coils, etc. and you won't ever get corrosion.
 
Now will those silver kill coils speed up corrosion or no?

In theory yes, they will promote corrosion of the copper in the system. However in practice I doubt very much there is anything to be concerned about unless your fluid is very ionic and we don't usually run seawater in our loops. With the proper amount of any additive to prevent corrosion and likely even with plain distilled water in an all copper loop - there will be no issue in practice with those silver coils.

Google "galvanic series" here is one result,
http://www.prevco.com/Reference/Galvanic.htm

The idea is to have all the same metal in the loop and different metals, if they must be there, use ones as close to one another on list as possible. For example Copper and Brass are next to one another and thats why no one mentions if their brass barbs will corrode their copper block, In theory they will, but with a reasonable fluid you will be dead and gone before anything noticeable happens.

Notice how far apart zinc and graphite (carbon) are in the table above. Makes a great battery, The zinc gets eaten away ("corrodes") and the zinc ions flow from the zinc to the graphite causing an electric current - when the zinc is gone the battery is dead.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc-carbon_battery

This is why we do not want "junk" in our fluids and try to use similar or all one metal in a loop.

No flames please, this is a complex subject and I am just glossing it over. Personally, I would not waste money on those silver "coils" a couple of tablespoons of zerex or petrosin/whatever it is called in a gallon of distilled water and you are good. If you must have silver go buy a pre-1963 sliver dime for 25 cents from a coin shop and drop it in your res.
 
I agree, Bill. I think it's best to just use straight distilled water with a couple of drops of biocide, I used PT-Nuke. Simple and effective and less chance for corrosion.
 
The big issue is corrosion, although as I said earlier I have a 7 year old koolance loop with mixed metals and no corrosion issues.
In support of this statement, I have 3 EXOS units, the orginal EXOS 1, a EXOS II, and a EXOS 2.5, all have been in service 24/7 since purchase ranging from 5 years to 6 months and on different systems and in different cases and have used nothing but Koolance coolant. I've never had a failure or any signs of corrosion with any of them
 
Kudos to Koolance for upping the ante in recent history...

They've always made great products for those seeking the easier route.
 
Well, aren't there a lot of anti corrosives in their koolance Koolant?

I wonder who the oem is for the copper radiator, and how it will peform against other radiators in the same price bracket.

Black ice gtx series, Xspc radiators, Feser, etc.
 
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