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Knight Rider CWC
- Thread starter marquee
- Start date
Skall, you still the same old. Let me tell you in person, I can talk about hardware and modding for ever. I talked to a few people about my work and they told me talk to this person and this person. Like a grape vine. Before I knew it I had hardware sent to my house. The reason why I can tell you who they are is because the company/ new location is not 100% go yet for them. But the cases will be anther way to boost there idea at meatings or something like that. I also signed a contract. I cant talk for a while, when it opens still I might not be. But don't worry the future mods I have for the modding world will blow you pants off. LOL
Thanks you guys, it really means alot when people like my work. Helps me get up the next morining and mod some more. Skall dude, you still the same grow up dude.
By the way I am going to be reading you version of the Knight Rider mod, to understand how you did the LED chaser.
Thanks you guys, it really means alot when people like my work. Helps me get up the next morining and mod some more. Skall dude, you still the same grow up dude.
By the way I am going to be reading you version of the Knight Rider mod, to understand how you did the LED chaser.
CleanSlate
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2003
- Messages
- 5,258
What look are you going for? I looked through and found no sketches of what you want it to look like when you are done..
~Adam
~Adam
It's been a few years since I've played much with digital circuits, but I'd imagine your solution is going to be in a timer (ie 555) cmos chip, and a counter (4017) chip.
Best thing to decide first is how many LCDs you're going to use... that way you can decide when to turn the signal around. As I recall, the Knight Rider lights ran in a mirrored set, that ran towards the center then towards the outside.
A quick google provided this http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/automotive/011/ , which lays out a pretty nice and simple way to set this up.
Actually, here's a much simpler and straightforward circuit... http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/motor_light/028/
this second one doesn't have the cyclic effect though, it just goes from one end to the other and starts again from the beginning. This circuit lists 9v, but CMOS chips can source 3-15V without an issue, so the 5v lead from your computer would handle it.
Best thing to decide first is how many LCDs you're going to use... that way you can decide when to turn the signal around. As I recall, the Knight Rider lights ran in a mirrored set, that ran towards the center then towards the outside.
A quick google provided this http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/automotive/011/ , which lays out a pretty nice and simple way to set this up.
Actually, here's a much simpler and straightforward circuit... http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/motor_light/028/
this second one doesn't have the cyclic effect though, it just goes from one end to the other and starts again from the beginning. This circuit lists 9v, but CMOS chips can source 3-15V without an issue, so the 5v lead from your computer would handle it.
Ok I will make sure to take a look at both the pages to understand them. I am thinking to make them myself, but at the same time I want to send it out to a pro to make it. Or even get one of those Knightlight.co.uk bay LED chaser. But I will look at it.
I still have the X1800 XT and I bought Quake 4. I used it for a few mins, with Ultra High. Man this game rocks guys. In ultra mode the game uses more then 500mb of texture graphing.
I am going to put this card through some hard work and if its still stable and works I might just keep it.
I still have the X1800 XT and I bought Quake 4. I used it for a few mins, with Ultra High. Man this game rocks guys. In ultra mode the game uses more then 500mb of texture graphing.
I am going to put this card through some hard work and if its still stable and works I might just keep it.Spare-Flair
Supreme [H]ardness
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- Apr 4, 2003
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- 7,471
marquee said:Ok I will make sure to take a look at both the pages to understand them. I am thinking to make them myself, but at the same time I want to send it out to a pro to make it. Or even get one of those Knightlight.co.uk bay LED chaser. But I will look at it.
I still have the X1800 XT and I bought Quake 4. I used it for a few mins, with Ultra High. Man this game rocks guys. In ultra mode the game uses more then 500mb of texture graphing.
If you look in my post, I modified a red LED scanner that was for a car security system for my chaser/scanner. However, it doesn't have the slow decay rate that might look better for trailing lights.
This update was due a few days ago but I had computer trouble in which I had to format my computer and then get a new hard drive and took me 3 tries to get windows to install with out error.
Since this is in the theme of the Knight Riders KITT car, I said what the hell let me give it a underground effect. So I took the bottom lined up the tube and marked off the holes. Then toke a dremel to it. The tube will be held to the bottom later bu a zip tie or metal bracket. The zip tie or metal bracket will be hidden from viewer looking into the case by and pice of plexi that will be mirror like.
This is a mock up witht he frame of the front.
This hole is for the tube power wire.
And yes after some more grinding and bondo that hole will look clean. I hope. Or I might just do rub ring.
Since this is in the theme of the Knight Riders KITT car, I said what the hell let me give it a underground effect. So I took the bottom lined up the tube and marked off the holes. Then toke a dremel to it. The tube will be held to the bottom later bu a zip tie or metal bracket. The zip tie or metal bracket will be hidden from viewer looking into the case by and pice of plexi that will be mirror like.
This is a mock up witht he frame of the front.
This hole is for the tube power wire.
And yes after some more grinding and bondo that hole will look clean. I hope. Or I might just do rub ring.
ShepsCrook
[H]F Junkie
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- Feb 16, 2003
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- 9,455
I have to say, this is my first time posting in this thread. I liked the paint job of the keyboard and mouse that you did. I do have to say that your hole cutting leaves some to be desired. And I think the bright cathode tube underneith will dimm any other lights you have on the computer, or at least distract the eyes from other lights.
what I was thinking to do when done was to sand the cathode tube, to give it a softer look. This was I still get underground effect. Also there will be 2 red cathod in the case and two UV. Only one cathod out. I want to do the underground so bad. But making LED woould be a wast with extra cathode tubes in my hand.
Logan321 said:
Let's all try to be accurate here, they are called LEDs (light emitting diodes), not LCDs.
Looking forward to hearing more about the mod, especially how it will look after it's done. Looks like most of the modding took quite a bit of time, huh?
ShepsCrook
[H]F Junkie
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- Feb 16, 2003
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I would suggest maybe just using a black permanent marker and color the cathode except for a small strip of the cathode on the bottom, that should cut down on light that gets emitted.
Ok for all of you that keep making fun of this guys Engrish, that should stop. Realize that not all modders natively speak or type English. This guy seems to be from Canada and probably speaks French, not English. Yes it is sometimes hard to have to read and translate, but just think of it this way. Pretend you are your middle school/ high school english teachers trying to read your term papers. Even the best writers in my school still had a hard time getting some concepts across. And writing in plain english vs. writing in a technical form is much easier. So give this guy a break, if you dont want to read his posts because you dont feel like trying to "translate" then dont post, period.
On another note, Marquee, sweet mods dude. Cant wait to see what you have in store for us next.
On another note, Marquee, sweet mods dude. Cant wait to see what you have in store for us next.
Ok this post is to show the way the HD will be mounted and were they will be mounted. It will be placed right over the RAM and CPU area. If the PSU was still were it will normaly be, the HDs will be mounted right under the PSU box. I will be using a Zalman hard driver cooler. I plan to take the hard drive cooler apart and paint it the same way as the mouse to give it a red look. Red and chrome will be the final colours of the hard driver cooler. Here comes the pics.
This is the plate that will support the HDs, I will use spacer and some plexi to hide the screws of the HD.
This is and idea what it will look like.
This is to give an idea were it will be mounted.
This sketch shows the side view of the hard drive mounting. The middle bar is the plexi. I will use spacer and two sets of screws to mount the HD to the new plate. The first set of screws will mount the plexi to the plate with spacer in between. The second set will mount the hard drive to the plexi.
Here is a quick 3D sketch.
This is the plate that will support the HDs, I will use spacer and some plexi to hide the screws of the HD.
This is and idea what it will look like.
This is to give an idea were it will be mounted.
This sketch shows the side view of the hard drive mounting. The middle bar is the plexi. I will use spacer and two sets of screws to mount the HD to the new plate. The first set of screws will mount the plexi to the plate with spacer in between. The second set will mount the hard drive to the plexi.
Here is a quick 3D sketch.
Ok here are better pics
Here is the Zalman HD cooler.
My new Raptor hard drive.
Getting the right wires. I need to mock-up the HD and see how much space wires and so on will take.
http://images.mi-pcs.com/albums/album04/HD_mounting
[IMG]http://images.mi-pcs.com/albums/album04/HD_mounting_038.sized.jpg_027.sized.jpg[/IMG]
As you can see I have to place the HD a little far from the back of the plate so I can clear some thing under it like RAM and the motherboard.
New games
Testing the Raptor. And what a beast it is. Can't wait till I have two in RAID 0.
Here is the Zalman HD cooler.
My new Raptor hard drive.
Getting the right wires. I need to mock-up the HD and see how much space wires and so on will take.
http://images.mi-pcs.com/albums/album04/HD_mounting
[IMG]http://images.mi-pcs.com/albums/album04/HD_mounting_038.sized.jpg_027.sized.jpg[/IMG]
As you can see I have to place the HD a little far from the back of the plate so I can clear some thing under it like RAM and the motherboard.
New games
Testing the Raptor. And what a beast it is. Can't wait till I have two in RAID 0.
CleanSlate
Supreme [H]ardness
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- Mar 28, 2003
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- 5,258
Taking off the plate of a hard drive like that isn't very smart. There's a reason why those things are made in a static free, dust controled environment, ya know? I know it looks cool... but still I think it will over halve the life span of your drive =/. With all the dust that is bound to get in it that's like 8 times the size of the dust that it's rated to handle... I mean... come on.
~Adam
~Adam
Electric Boogaloo
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2005
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- 85
CleanSlate said:
Haha, taking the cover off a newer drive would pretty much instantly kill it.
boostdemon
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2004
- Messages
- 147
mod is looking awesome, glad to see you finally got some eye protection (dremel cutting wheels are really good and blinding people for life)
can that metal masters paint be wet sanded to remove the orange peel effect?
can that metal masters paint be wet sanded to remove the orange peel effect?
I believe the paint can be sanded. I am pretty sure. I kinda painted in a weird way though. I also found a way to paint super thin, to get no orange peal effect. I tried it and worked. But the temp were I was painting was like -14C so the paint was a little flat when the candy painting finished.
Ok here is a little hardware peak.
This is for sure me. Every night since I got F.E.A.R. I can't sleep no more.
I dont think this is true.
Must have gamer gear. THis card is the bomb.
You guys need to get this card man. Its crazy.
Old card. Bye bye. You served me well for the past, oh 10 years. LOL
Pile of games that I am currently playing. I am gamer I tell you. I am taking this hardware to its limts then water cool it and OC it to the max. For now I am figuring out my baselines.
Look at the beast that hosts this hardware. Yes its bare but the case is coming. Don't worry lonly hardware, you will have a sexy outter layer soon.
It lights up. WOW
Sneak Preview of whats next on this project.
This is for sure me. Every night since I got F.E.A.R. I can't sleep no more.
I dont think this is true.
Must have gamer gear. THis card is the bomb.
You guys need to get this card man. Its crazy.
Old card. Bye bye. You served me well for the past, oh 10 years. LOL
Pile of games that I am currently playing. I am gamer I tell you. I am taking this hardware to its limts then water cool it and OC it to the max. For now I am figuring out my baselines.
Look at the beast that hosts this hardware. Yes its bare but the case is coming. Don't worry lonly hardware, you will have a sexy outter layer soon.
It lights up. WOW
Sneak Preview of whats next on this project.
XteriorMotive
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2005
- Messages
- 325
hey looks awesome man cant wait till its done
Ok guys this update is very minor work. Its just me lightly priming the ND mounting and the cleaner cover. From this point on I would like to call the cleaner cover The Core. Why the core, because the heater core sits right under it. Any way. I primed them so I can get and idea what needs to be sanded, better and areas that will stick out when painted. Found many things I never thought of, and a few I already knew of.
Over here you see that there is a sort of a low area, it might need filling, or might be good, because of the rivets and the space below is tight any way.
This is that PSU back plate. I see I need to get better files and file it down. I need to get smaller files.
This is the famouse Core
This will need sanding to make it smooth.
Here are some more areas.
A better shot of what I am talking about
Anther area, I was hoping this area would heal it self. Kinda pissed off, of the amount of sanding I must do still.:angry:
In the end the core, will be painted a candy red to stand out a little from the glossy black case. Like so.\/
Enjoy the work.
Over here you see that there is a sort of a low area, it might need filling, or might be good, because of the rivets and the space below is tight any way.
This is that PSU back plate. I see I need to get better files and file it down. I need to get smaller files.
This is the famouse Core
This will need sanding to make it smooth.
Here are some more areas.
A better shot of what I am talking about
Anther area, I was hoping this area would heal it self. Kinda pissed off, of the amount of sanding I must do still.:angry:
In the end the core, will be painted a candy red to stand out a little from the glossy black case. Like so.\/
Enjoy the work.
Ok there seem to be many questions on many forums about the state of the water cooling. If it will go in or not and what not. Yes it will go in and here is a sneak preview of the block that many and machines are working on. I plan to have three of them made. One copper base with plastic clear top, aluminum base with plastic clear top, and an all aluminum one. After some tests with the three blocks the winning block will be used. Also the winning block I am going to order 10 more of and sell them on my future web shop.
Whats your ideas on the block?
Whats your ideas on the block?
mohammedtaha
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2004
- Messages
- 3,648
Why didn't you go with a copper and an aluminum top ...
That would've been the best combination, especially if the aluminum was also brushed and anodized. Woulda looked sick.
That would've been the best combination, especially if the aluminum was also brushed and anodized. Woulda looked sick.
By putting two different types of metals in the same system you cause rusting. Well you start a rust procces. I forgot the real name for it but it anit nice what happens. The only way to beat it is by haveing addtives. Also copper is already heavey, by doing two metal plates it will only make the block heavier
I started sanded the 'Turbo' today. I needed to fix some areas so I was sanding with a 80grit. I got rit of extra areas quick.
Remember this area
This area will need to get filled.
And this one too.
Here are some areas that stand out some what.
All the pics I have for now. Stay tuned guys. Please reply and ask questions and suggestions .
Remember this area
This area will need to get filled.
And this one too.
Here are some areas that stand out some what.
All the pics I have for now. Stay tuned guys. Please reply and ask questions and suggestions .
revenant
[H]F Squad Captain
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2005
- Messages
- 16,377
lookin' real good so far!
<must fight urge to tear apart and mod PC>
<must fight urge to tear apart and mod PC>
Seriously you have some talent there. The whole project looks very good.
I wish I had the time and resources to take on something like this. I used to do a lot of custom work in car audio with fiberglass, paint, vinyl, etc and have often thought of modding my computer. My wife never understood my car audio needs but put up with them would probably roll her eyes
Keep those updates coming and thanks for sharing.
<must fight urge to tear apart and mod PC>
Seriously you have some talent there. The whole project looks very good.
I wish I had the time and resources to take on something like this. I used to do a lot of custom work in car audio with fiberglass, paint, vinyl, etc and have often thought of modding my computer. My wife never understood my car audio needs but put up with them would probably roll her eyes
Keep those updates coming and thanks for sharing.
As a suggestion, to fill in small chips in metal such as that. SEM carries a huge lineup of high quality automotive paints. They have a self-etching primer here: http://levineautoparts.com/semseletprim.html and also a thick surfacing primer to go on top of the self-etch. I'm not sure of the finish you're looking for but that's probably your best bet unless you own a paint gun. A few coats of primer from that would make that thing look pretty smooth.
This is modding fuel. A lightly toasted white bread with chocolate spread and peanut butter. With a nice healthy sized cup of Colombian coffee.
Here is the area that need to be filled.
I started by making the side piece first. This will need to be shorted, for the fiberglass cloth to fit. Its not finished. I am going to make it shorter by at least .5cm.
Here is the top piece. Same as the other one it will also need to be shorted to fit with the cloth on it.
Here is the area that need to be filled.
I started by making the side piece first. This will need to be shorted, for the fiberglass cloth to fit. Its not finished. I am going to make it shorter by at least .5cm.
Here is the top piece. Same as the other one it will also need to be shorted to fit with the cloth on it.
revenant
[H]F Squad Captain
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2005
- Messages
- 16,377
marquee said:
by chocolate spread, do you mean Neutella? I love that stuff. Mmmmmmmm...
Wow, Marquee, you have some talent there man I am really liking these mods of yours.
Impressive, and I see that you actually put in some time and effort into your work.
as for Skaal-tel, I can just see by that post that he probably won't get anywhere in life, probably end up doing brick laying or working at some fast food restraunt.
If I were a shop or something like that I would sponsor you.
Also, one Q about the spray paint you're using on the keyboard/mouse combo do you need to put a coat of primer on there, or can you just lay it thick with the actual color that you want it?
Impressive, and I see that you actually put in some time and effort into your work.
as for Skaal-tel, I can just see by that post that he probably won't get anywhere in life, probably end up doing brick laying or working at some fast food restraunt.
If I were a shop or something like that I would sponsor you.
Also, one Q about the spray paint you're using on the keyboard/mouse combo do you need to put a coat of primer on there, or can you just lay it thick with the actual color that you want it?