Just Ordered My Westinghouse L2410NM!!

Hey here is the fix, it works this way without editing the driver inf file and it works in Vista and Win7. I don't know if it works in XP. Skyline889 you should try this if you need to use HDMI, you describe the problem I had.


Run Regedit & Navigate to:

HK_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video

Open the folder & check each folder (eg. HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{E0CC2030-CCD8-49B9-8267-83140EF868CB} )

Check each sub folder called "0000" until you come across one which expands and includes the following:

>Display
>Settings
>Uninstall
>Volatilesettings

Once you've located this, right click the "0000" folder and select "New" followed by "Binary Value".

Rename the value to:

OverrideEdidFlags0

and hit enter or okay

Next up, you need to right click the new key and select "Modify Binary Data" from the list.

Enter in this info below:
5c 85 80 51 00 00 ff ff 04 00 00 00 7e 01 00

After you enter the info in the value will show as (invalid DWORD (32-bit) value) but this is correct. Reboot and your monitor will work once again. BTW you will need to do this after every driver installation. I have experienced some severe blanking and weird noises from the monitor after some driver upgrades. You might want to connect up the VGA when updating drivers.

I just purchased an ATI video card and I attempted your solution and it doesn't seem to work. I presume it is limited to Nvidia cards. Anyone know of an ATI solution to this?
 
I just purchased an ATI video card and I attempted your solution and it doesn't seem to work. I presume it is limited to Nvidia cards. Anyone know of an ATI solution to this?

The solution is to buy a generic DVI-HDMI adapter here:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8308

The crap one that ATI/AMD supplies with the card (if they did at all) will output the garbage colours that we are all familiar with. You need the cheapo generic one and you will get a proper image. I know because I had to do this back in 2008 with my 2000 series ATI card, and now again in 2010 with my 5000 series. Be warned, you won't be able to pas your audio out of the the cheap adapter to HDMI (if you needed to).

I submitted a bunch of reports to ATI but they never fixed it. They offered to compensate me to bring my monitor into their headquarters so they could do testing but I never took them up on it.


Intel drivers also have a problem with our monitor:

http://communities.intel.com/message/96968#96968

But I don't think there is any known solution for Intel yet.
 
Hey here is the fix, it works this way without editing the driver inf file and it works in Vista and Win7.

niconx, I have been lurking in these forums for years but finally registered just to tell you thank you.

I have the L2410NM and have probably fixed this issue 20 times over the years, but this was by far the easiest and quickest solution.

Thank you sir!
 
I've come to say this POS monitor is on its last legs for me. Even with my ghetto fan the HDMI picture was cutting in/out too much so I finally switched over to VGA, unfortunately. And even every now and then my monitor will turn pinkish and I'll jiggle the VGA cable on the monitor end and it fixes it (and yes, the connection is tight, even screwed down). Can't wait to junk this POS and get a nice ASUS or Samsung LED lit display...
 
I gave this monitor to my gf when I upgraded, but now it just wont turn on.

Any help?

Is there a rest button on it somehow, hold power or something like that. Manual SUCKS. Troubleshoting it says check the power cable is plugged in, ok... Check that the outlet is providing enough voltage, ok... How about check if the monitor sucks phat ass. I had image cutting in out problems a A LOT and the monitor didn't turn on before, unplugging and plugging in a few times got it to work, but now its just dead. Any suggestions to get it to work. Its well out of warranty too.
 
I gave this monitor to my gf when I upgraded, but now it just wont turn on.

Any help?

Is there a rest button on it somehow, hold power or something like that. Manual SUCKS. Troubleshoting it says check the power cable is plugged in, ok... Check that the outlet is providing enough voltage, ok... How about check if the monitor sucks phat ass. I had image cutting in out problems a A LOT and the monitor didn't turn on before, unplugging and plugging in a few times got it to work, but now its just dead. Any suggestions to get it to work. Its well out of warranty too.

I recently had this happen to mine..

Turned out to be 1 or 2 bad capacitors on the power board inside the unit.. then coupled with those, the 2nd half of the "other board", the backlight inverter board, wasnt getting juice..

So i replaced the capacitors (very cheap) then replaced the backlight inverter board ($35 online) and i have a working lcd again.
 
Hey here is the fix, it works this way without editing the driver inf file and it works in Vista and Win7. I don't know if it works in XP. Skyline889 you should try this if you need to use HDMI, you describe the problem I had.


Run Regedit & Navigate to:

HK_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video

Open the folder & check each folder (eg. HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{E0CC2030-CCD8-49B9-8267-83140EF868CB} )

Check each sub folder called "0000" until you come across one which expands and includes the following:

>Display
>Settings
>Uninstall
>Volatilesettings

Once you've located this, right click the "0000" folder and select "New" followed by "Binary Value".

Rename the value to:

OverrideEdidFlags0

and hit enter or okay

Next up, you need to right click the new key and select "Modify Binary Data" from the list.

Enter in this info below:
5c 85 80 51 00 00 ff ff 04 00 00 00 7e 01 00

After you enter the info in the value will show as (invalid DWORD (32-bit) value) but this is correct. Reboot and your monitor will work once again. BTW you will need to do this after every driver installation. I have experienced some severe blanking and weird noises from the monitor after some driver upgrades. You might want to connect up the VGA when updating drivers.

I tried this with my 5850 ati card and the L2410NM monitor, but so far, even after a reboot, i still have horrific text via hdmi to hdmi. (i need to use the hdmi for audio passing to my receiver.. i also use the DP and the dvi port for eyefinity, so there is not a vga option for me either)
 
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Only thing I can suggest is to contact ATI tech support and escalate the problem several times until you're actually talking to someone with half a brain and realizes that you actually have a REAL issue that can't be solved by reinstalling drivers or following whatever troubleshooting script they force you through.

I went this route in 2008, but gave up when I found out I could get HDMI to work with a cheap DVI to HDMI converter. I was supposed to bring my L2410NM into their head office (i live nearby) but decided it wasn't worth the time since it was working with the generic adapter. Now I kind of wish I had, since my new 5670 card still has this issue and no way to fix it unlinke the Nvidia cards.....

By the way, very interesting regarding how you fixed your broken monitor. I'd love to see some photos if you took any during the process. What tools did you use in testing?
 
my monitor just started making some hissing sound when I just turn it on, if I change inputs and cycle back, or if the screen blanks out for a second (like when you login to windows), the hissing stops until I power cycle the monitor.

Is it on the decline now? It's been pretty steady for me for nearly 3 years now of at least 6 hours of use per day.
 
Monitor appears to be dying.


Today when I turned it on, it turned itself off after 5 seconds and refused to turn back on. I left it unplugged for 20 minutes and now it turns on, but there is a constant buzz even on picture mode.

Any ideas how I can self-repair this thing?
 
I recently had this happen to mine..

Turned out to be 1 or 2 bad capacitors on the power board inside the unit.. then coupled with those, the 2nd half of the "other board", the backlight inverter board, wasnt getting juice..

So i replaced the capacitors (very cheap) then replaced the backlight inverter board ($35 online) and i have a working lcd again.

Hi there, I seem to be having the same issue. Could you please provide me with some more details of how you fixed the monitor? I haven't done electronic repairs like this before, but I want to try, so please forgive me for being a noob.

For starts, how did you determine which capacitors were bad? Where did you buy replacements? Where did you buy the replacement backlight inverter?

Thank you!
 
Hi there, I seem to be having the same issue. Could you please provide me with some more details of how you fixed the monitor? I haven't done electronic repairs like this before, but I want to try, so please forgive me for being a noob.

For starts, how did you determine which capacitors were bad? Where did you buy replacements? Where did you buy the replacement backlight inverter?

Thank you!

Well, i didnt do the work on the capacitors, but i dont think it was that hard.. the guys at my work do this sort of thing all the time, so i had them do it.

They just looked for capacitors that were "bulged", replaced them with similar capacity capacitors.. probably just desoldered the one(s) in question, then put the new ones in..

You can buy that power module though for around $50 (there is a part number on that board).. Because i initially did buy it, then returned it because i didnt need it.

Here is the one: http://cgi.ebay.com/WESTINGHOUSE-L2...383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f05770f1f


But like i said, i just had to replace the inverter..

Here is the one i bought:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1160223&Click=54985

I used a coupon code and had it shipped for $34.95.
 
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Thanks markm75, I'm going to attempt the repair.

How did you mange to get the back cover off? I only see three screws at the bottom of the display.
 
It sorta pops off. I remember having this issue too. I think around the edge that sticks out going around the screen.
 
Ok well after having this thing in my garage for months I decided to give it a look.

I got the back off and looking at the power supply I dont see any bulging capacitors. What it does is make a sort of clicking sound which is coming from the side of the PSU that the cord that connects to the backlight board is on. What can I do now? Just buy a new power supply, I can get one online for about $45. Might not be worth it to risk that money as I can get a new monitor instead if I want one.

If anyone has any ideas I'm willing to listen. If anyone wants parts from this thing I'd be happy to sell crap off or the whole thing.
 
Upgraded to 266.58 to solve some other stupid problem and went to apply the EDID override reg hack. This time it didn't help. I'm certain the first 4 bits our correct for our monitor and the rest are correct for EDID override.

I've probably done this almost a dozen times leading up to last night, and for whatever reason it's not working this time. Is anyone else experiencing this issue?

I also tried the 3D Vision DLP HDTV Capatibility Fix, which I read was supposed to make your nvidia card think the HDMI connection was DVI, had no effect. My 9600GT is connected to my Westinghouse via HDMI with audio off.

Any ideas considered, I'm at a loss. I even tried downgrading to 258.96 and I still can't get the override to work.

Thanks.
 
Upgraded to 266.58 to solve some other stupid problem and went to apply the EDID override reg hack. This time it didn't help. I'm certain the first 4 bits our correct for our monitor and the rest are correct for EDID override.

I've probably done this almost a dozen times leading up to last night, and for whatever reason it's not working this time. Is anyone else experiencing this issue?

I also tried the 3D Vision DLP HDTV Capatibility Fix, which I read was supposed to make your nvidia card think the HDMI connection was DVI, had no effect. My 9600GT is connected to my Westinghouse via HDMI with audio off.

Any ideas considered, I'm at a loss. I even tried downgrading to 258.96 and I still can't get the override to work.

Thanks.

Still works for me using those drivers. You may have another key named 0001 where you need to place the overrideedidflags0 dword value:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{7FF3167F-23B6-4080-8CA1-00E0B4B00B4E}\0001
^
That is my current key but I also have a key 0000, it will not work if I put the overrideedidflags0 dword value in there.
 
Upgraded to 267.24 and still no luck. Then I saw your post and it occurred to me that I hadn't tried any of the 0001 keys. I didn't have the particular one you mentioned, but adding it to a few 0001 keys worked. I'd prefer to have a more focused approach, but at this point I'll take it! Thanks.
 
Upgraded to 267.24 and still no luck. Then I saw your post and it occurred to me that I hadn't tried any of the 0001 keys. I didn't have the particular one you mentioned, but adding it to a few 0001 keys worked. I'd prefer to have a more focused approach, but at this point I'll take it! Thanks.

Yea the crazy long {7FF3167F-23B6-4080-8CA1-00E0B4B00B4E} type numbers will be different on your system. You want to look for a 0001 folder with subfolders named Display, Settings, and Volatile Settings. The 0001 folders without subfolders are not the ones you want to add the overrideedidflags0 value to.

If you use another monitor than the L2410NM with your computer and have more than one 0001 folder with subfolders then you want to remove the overrideedidflags0 from that 0001 folder before you connect that other monitor.
 
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