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Is this how CPUs die?

nthexwn

nthexwn

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 27, 2007
Messages
148
Relevant Parts:
•CPU = i7 920 @ 4.0ghz (since 2009)
•Motherboard = Asus P6T Deluxe V2 (since 2009)
•Memory = 3x4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600-9-9-9-24-1T (since 11/7)
•Video = EVGA GTX570 @ 794-1494-3900 (since 11/7)
•PSU = Silverstone ST1000-P (Since February)

So there I was, running around Skyrim and having a grand old time, when *ZAP* all of a sudden there was a power spike in the apartment, the lights flickered, and my computer turned off. The surge protector didn't trip, and none of the clocks in my bedroom reset, but the one on the microwave in the kitchen did, which was strange... *shrugs* ...anyway, I went to turn the PC back on...

All I got was lights and fans. No signal to the monitor, no beep codes (do motherboards even do that anymore?), and no drive head sounds. Nothing. Here's what I've tried since then:

•Tested memory DIMMs one at a time. Nothing.
•Tested old memory (3x2GB OCZ DDR3). Nothing.
•Tested old video card (AMD HD4890). Nothing.
•Tested even older video card (ATI X1050). Nothing.
•Tested old PSU (PC Power & Cooling Silencer 650). Nothing.
•Manually removed battery from motherboard and shorted connections to reset. Nothing.
•Tested new video card in roommate's PC. Success.
•Tested new memory in roommate's PC. Success.
•Tested roommate's PC with my monitor. Success.

In the past (which includes some work as a tech), these symptoms have always pointed to either faulty memory or a bad PSU. However, that doesn't seem to be the case this time, and I'm a bit dumbfounded. I don't want to admit it's true, but either my motherboard or CPU seem to have died. Is this how they usually go out? I've never actually seen it happen before. Spontaneous failure after 2 years of loyal service? How tragic! :(

Now, I don't have access to any other LGA1336 boards or CPUs, so it technically could be either the CPU or the motherboard, though my gut tells me its the CPU. Any other impressions? This probably means I'm going to have to upgrade for the second time this month... *groan* ...but hey, at least Black Friday is coming up this week! Anybody got any last voodoo remedies to try before I go spending? Failing that, any buying advice? I'm very tempted to shell out $800 for an i7-3930K and a fancy new board, though I should probably just stick with an i7-950, even though it's no better than what I have. (had?) Any other thoughts guys?

Thanks,
-Alex
 
I believe the motherboard mosfets would burn out before there is enough voltage to kill the CPU. Check under the heatsinks and see if there are any burnt out parts around the CPU area. It may be hard to see on the motherboard itself, so look for scorch marks on the thermal pads.

Strange though how your motherboard or CPU were affected, but the GPU's weren't. All of the 12v power for the CPU and GPU come off of the same 12v line, so theoretically if it burned out one, it should have burned out the other. Although, with electronics, you never know. And if the spike was going to harm your electronics, quality PSUs (which yours is) usually are able to suppress surges, and if they can't, usually sacrifice themselves before your components are affected.

It could also be the CPU or motherboard decided to coincide their crapping out with the loss of power.

Have you tried the graphics card in any of the other PCI-E slots?
 
That sucks. You might be able to claim on homeowner or rental insurance.
 
It looks like you've been fairly thorough in your testing. Unfortunately, with all your testing, i'm going to have to agree that it seems to be either the mobo or the cpu.
 
At the risk of insulting you, have you tried a different power cord?

From my experience, the fuse in the power cord is usually the first to go when the power is affected throughout the whole house.
 
Never heard of a fuse inside of a power cord. All the ones that I use are the typical black IEC cords.
 
A fuse would totally blow. He would get no power to the computer whatsoever. I've never seen a fuse or fusible link inside of a regular IEC cord.
 
Attempted today:
•Tried different power cord and outlet as suggested. Nothing.
•Tried different PCI-e slot as suggested. Nothing.
•Tried switching from HDMI to DVI. Nothing.
•Disassembled entire machine and checked CPU/Socket. Lots of dust, but no indication of damage.
•Attempted to POST with barebones on workdesk. Still nothing. Was holding finger to CPU and definitely felt it warming up, so electrical current is still present.
•Reassembled entire machine and prayed for a miracle. Still nothing. ;(

I'd really like to know if it's the CPU or the motherboard at this point, so that I can plan my purchases by the end of the week. I'm thinking of hauling the rig around town until I find a shop that will let me try the CPU out in one of their motherboards. I don't have much faith in brick and mortar stores these days though...

Meanwhile, I've been attempting to access my returns/RMA page on Newegg to see if the parts are still covered, but all I'm getting is this:
NeweggFail.jpg


Is this a global problem with the site right now, or is there something messed up with my account? Can anybody confirm one way or the other?

Thanks again guys,
-Alex
 
Last edited:
Seems like Newegg is being overloaded due to Black Friday.

Anyways, if you're beyond the 30 or 60 day return policy of Newegg, it's up to the manufacturers. Intel does a 3 year warranty with their CPUs, and Asus does a 3 year warranty with their motherboards. Asus is based on serial number, which has the date of manufacture on it, and warranty is valid until 3 years after that date; not sure what Intel does.
 
nthexwn said:
In the past (which includes some work as a tech), these symptoms have always pointed to either faulty memory or a bad PSU. However, that doesn't seem to be the case this time, and I'm a bit dumbfounded. I don't want to admit it's true, but either my motherboard or CPU seem to have died. Is this how they usually go out? I've never actually seen it happen before. Spontaneous failure after 2 years of loyal service? How tragic! :(
Click to expand...
My suspiscion is that the PSU failed (putting both a load surge onto the mains and an overvoltage onto one or more of the DC rails) and killed the motherboard. The CPU may well still be ok but I wouldn't bet on it.

Paragon said:
Never heard of a fuse inside of a power cord. All the ones that I use are the typical black IEC cords.
Click to expand...
Spine is a brit (I checked his profile) who doesn't seem to realise that fused plugs are a british oddity.
 
plugwash said:
Spine is a brit (I checked his profile) who doesn't seem to realise that fused plugs are a british oddity.
Click to expand...

I guess you guys don't have fuses in your cords then?

Might've saved the OP's motherboard, if it is indeed dead.
 
I see. Yeah. We are fuse-less over here. Most equipment, such as amps and the rest, usually have a separate fuse either in the IEC socket or elsewhere on the back panel. Power supplies should have an internal fuse built inside which is usually not replaceable.. some are. some you need the soldering iron.
Just looked up the British cords. Interesting. Learn something every day.
 
EvilViking said:
I am not trying to be a jerk, but a Voltage Regulator should be on your upgrade list: http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=le1200
Click to expand...

One of my friends has gotten that same exact model. It's been a lifesaver for him.

He currently lives in a house built in the 50s or 60s. The house itself has poor wiring and his neighborhood has been prone to brownouts and blackouts for the past several years. He's had to replace the power supply to his computer about 3 to 4 times in the last two years.

It's fortunate that his computer has not suffered any irreparable damage which honestly surprises me. The only thing he's had to replace was the video card about twice in the last three years.

He's gotten a voltage regular from APC including a UPS unit. It helps in areas where you have shoddy power lines or wiring.
 
I've lost RAM during power outages a couple of times then I got a battery backup. Of course before reading APC were good, I got a Tripp Lite. It works.
 
Okay, so... Voltage regulators. I'm trying to decide between this APC model:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812106005

and this Tripp Lite model:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842111281

I notice that the Tripp Lite lists an output capacity of 600w, whereas the APC model has no output capacity listed. Ideally, wouldn't I want a regulator with a capacity of 1000w to match my computer's PSU, or is there something about electricity that I'm not understanding here? Unfortunately I don't see any "better" models on Newegg, which is where I plan to make my purchases. I know my computer only uses around 300w under load (tested with a "kill-a-watt" outlet monitor a couple years ago), but at the same time the system wouldn't post with a 400w PSU. It's all a little mysterious to me...
 
I know my Tripp Lite battery backup is good for about 950 watts for 15 minutes. I might be wrong but for me, I only needed a battery backup. I'm not sure if a battery backup already incorporates a voltage regulator or not. Something to look at if you're interested.
 
im confused, whats the difference between voltage regulators, surge protectors and UPS? Which is the best option so electronics dont die? I get sometimes blackouts and even brownouts that had my old computer die but it had a crappy PSU. Now im using a surge protector but i have no idea what it does, APC says "Let Through Voltage Rating < 900" whatever that means.
 
Voltage regulators keep the voltage within a certain value. In general, they do not offer any form of protection.

Surge protectors suppress large amounts of amperage suddenly going into a system. They are what provide protection against surges.

UPS supply power from batteries when power from the main grid is cut out. They protect against brownouts and blackouts, and usually include some sort of surge protector.
 
Tsumi said:
Voltage regulators keep the voltage within a certain value. In general, they do not offer any form of protection.

Surge protectors suppress large amounts of amperage suddenly going into a system. They are what provide protection against surges.

UPS supply power from batteries when power from the main grid is cut out. They protect against brownouts and blackouts, and usually include some sort of surge protector.
Click to expand...

So then would I want to plug the voltage regulator into the surge protector, or plug the surge protector into the voltage regulator? Do the units listed above double as both? (Note that I'm not even looking at UPS yet)
 
UPS seems to be an extreme measure for a gaming PC, I feel its made for small businesses instead.
 
dioxholster said:
UPS seems to be an extreme measure for a gaming PC, I feel its made for small businesses instead.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say that.

You can get a UPS with a voltage regulator. That way you're protected on all fronts and you have a few minutes to save everything you're doing and shut down the system. That is beneficial to everyone in my opinion.
 
dioxholster said:
im confused, whats the difference between voltage regulators, surge protectors and UPS? Which is the best option so electronics dont die? I get sometimes blackouts and even brownouts that had my old computer die but it had a crappy PSU. Now im using a surge protector but i have no idea what it does, APC says "Let Through Voltage Rating < 900" whatever that means.
Click to expand...

Same here.
Tsumi said:
Voltage regulators keep the voltage within a certain value. In general, they do not offer any form of protection.

Surge protectors suppress large amounts of amperage suddenly going into a system. They are what provide protection against surges.

UPS supply power from batteries when power from the main grid is cut out. They protect against brownouts and blackouts, and usually include some sort of surge protector.
Click to expand...
Alright, but how do they keep the voltage within a certain value? By definition (yours), wouldn't voltage regulators offer an ideal form of protection?

Hard should write an article on voltage regulators, surge protectors, and UPS', comparing which is best for our application (Saving electronics from electrons gone astray).

Yup, methinks so..
 
A "voltage regulator" in this context (not to be confused with a voltage regulator in DC circuits which is an altogether different device) is typically a transformer with multiple taps and automatic switching between those taps. It will correct long term overvoltage or undervoltage but it cannot do anything about short dips and spikes.
 
Can you try to start your PC without memory!!!

If motherboard is okay, it might give some sound (continues beeps)

its only a guess!!!

Best of luck
 
xDezor said:
Hard should write an article on voltage regulators, surge protectors, and UPS', comparing which is best for our application (Saving electronics from electrons gone astray).

Yup, methinks so..
Click to expand...

This made me Laugh :D. I would read that. you should PM the fat cats in charge here and petition for an article. I have a surge protector now but I am rethinking my protection.

OP What did you end up doing, and did it work? I just recently had the exact same problem as you (except mine just happened one day when I woke up. I can not help you because I was not able to troubleshoot due to lack of spare parts; (I Rma'd my PSU CPU Mobo RAM (I wasn't very happy with my PSU anyway So i got a different one)). I was going to rma the CPU to troubleshoot but I did not want my RMA period to run out if it turned out to be the Mobo. For what it's worth I thought it might be the CPU as well.
 
EmualDave said:
Can you try to start your PC without memory!!!

If motherboard is okay, it might give some sound (continues beeps)
Click to expand...

I did try that actually, but it didn't do anything different. Still got lights and fans, but no display, no boot, and no sounds.

Stanfiem said:
OP What did you end up doing, and did it work?
Click to expand...

I talked to a few folks who convinced me that it in situations like this, 85% of the time it ends up being the motherboard. I called 4 different places, but of course, none of them had socket 1366 motherboards. So... I went ahead and ordered an Asus "Rampage III Formula R" from Newegg. I was hoping to get a nice discount, but it doesn't look like there was a single Black Friday deal on socket 1366 motherboards. *shrugs* I also paid around $30 for the fastest shipping and processing available, but the ship date is still set for Monday. *cries* In the meantime, I've been working off of my netbook, which is a rather painful experience. Games are out of the question, and the Android emulator I'm using for a school coding project takes 30 minutes just to launch! :-X

If the new motherboard doesn't work when it gets here on Tuesday, I'm just going to put my head through a wall, heh.

Also sounds like I should go with the Tripp Lite line conditioner. Thanks guys!
 
So to close the original issue...

My new motherboard (Rampage III Formula) finally arrived, and as it turns out, the old motherboard was the culprit, and the CPU is still alive! :D

As two added bonuses, the onboard audio chip (X-Fi 2 MB) supports CMSS3D, which means I can finally ditch my old soundcard, and my memory, which was only stable at DDR3-1600-9-9-9-24-1T on the old board, is now running at DDR3-2000-10-10-10-27-2T! :)
 
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