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Is there not a All-in-one solution?

L

LeviathanZERO

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Dec 20, 2003
Messages
6,496
I can not find anyone selling a proper water cooling kit that includes everything needed. All I see is pumps and radiators, but I need to buy the blocks seperately. Is there not a kit that includes everything? I dont want to throw a bunch of money at a setup, to find out its missing a vital peice.

I'm sure trying to find a WC setup that includes GPU and CPU blocks might be asking too much, might need something custom for my 8800GT anyway, so I understand that. But I just want to make one purchase and be done with it.

The "kits" I've seen are pushing $400-500 dollars. Yeah..... Not gonna happen. Not only are those WAY overpriced, but they dont even come with a CPU block! :eek:
I want a cheap all-in-one solution that wont break.

System in sig. (The Intel, not the first one)

Any recommendations?
 
Change for Thermochill PA 120.3 and you gotthe best you can get. Best rad for slow/quite fans with airflow up to 100cfm.
 
E.R said:
Change for Thermochill PA 120.3 and you gotthe best you can get. Best rad for slow/quite fans with airflow up to 100cfm.
Click to expand...

For about 3x the price. If you want to spend the huge premium on a pretty minute increase in performance, then thats the one. I find the mcr320 is a great inbetween rad for price, and performance.
 
Its more like 33%, PA120.3 can handle up to 600W and MCR320 only 450W and thats with low/medium speed fans on both. Well worth the gain and no dual Rad setup needed.
Low temps is always worth a small amount extra.
 
E.R said:
Its more like 33%, PA120.3 can handle up to 600W and MCR320 only 450W and thats with low/medium speed fans on both. Well worth the gain and no dual Rad setup needed.
Low temps is always worth a small amount extra.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by dual rad?

The PA120.3 can dissipate around 450w of heat with yate loons at 12v. Your radiator could dissipate 9000w and still not get much of an improvement if you're cooling a single CPU and GPU. But the OP has, at max, 320w of heat dump... Making that extra 50$ or so go unused. An MCR320 with 3 yate loons at 7v will handle his setup no problemo.

Don't get me wrong, I love the Thermochill products, but only in specific situations, where this is not one.
 
Arcygenical said:
The PA120.3 can dissipate around 450w of heat with yate loons at 12v. Your radiator could dissipate 9000w and still not get much of an improvement if you're cooling a single CPU and GPU. But the OP has, at max, 320w of heat dump... Making that extra 50$ or so go unused. An MCR320 with 3 yate loons at 7v will handle his setup no problemo.

Don't get me wrong, I love the Thermochill products, but only in specific situations, where this is not one.
Click to expand...
QFT. For the added price of a PA120.3, you could add another pump/another MCR320 (or if 2-triple rads is a space issue, at the least another 1x120 or two)/a GPU core block + ramsinks. In most cases, people can see more benefit from spending the $$$ they would have used to upgrade to a PA120.3 to get more performance/utility/redundancy from other components.

Arcy's DIY loop is great (highyl recommend getting the FuZion nozzles kit with it), and if you really can't stand the thought of buying/assembling your own loop, an H20-220 is great for a CPU only loop. You might consider adding another 2x120mm or at least a 1x120mm rad if you want to add a GPU to an H20-220 loop.
 
I have a nautilus 500 that cools as good or better than those crazy high end watercooling kits. I'm serious when I say that I've had good luck with this kit. Having said that, and not that I'm soley endorsing the n500, are you looking for eye candy as well as a convenient "all in one" kit? If so, you're right, go with swift, but otherwise, you can go way less and get more.

BTW, the 500s pumps can easily cool additional blocks but u do have to go outside to get them.
 
Radioshack by me had a Thermaltake water cooling kit.

I cannot remember the model but heres what it had:

Radiator with fan
Pump
Reservoir
All lines
stuff to seal the tubes to the barbs
CPU waterblock
coolant solution

you jsut add water.

it was like no more than 110 bucks
and then a GPU block was another 40


i think thats pretty affordable. tt stuff works pretty good.

EDIT:

I found the link for the kit:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...+water&kw=thermaltake+water&parentPage=search

and then heres the GPU block:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...+water&kw=thermaltake+water&parentPage=search

and I am totally sure I saw someone on here selling that same GPU waterblock.


I also found a decent review for you. it looks like the bigwater 735 works good:
http://www.xtremecomputing.co.uk/review.php?id=227&page=7
 
AmongTheChosenX said:
Radioshack by me had a Thermaltake water cooling kit.

I cannot remember the model but heres what it had:

Radiator with fan
Pump
Reservoir
All lines
stuff to seal the tubes to the barbs
CPU waterblock
coolant solution

you jsut add water.

it was like no more than 110 bucks
and then a GPU block was another 40


i think thats pretty affordable. tt stuff works pretty good.

EDIT:

I found the link for the kit:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...+water&kw=thermaltake+water&parentPage=search

and then heres the GPU block:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...+water&kw=thermaltake+water&parentPage=search

and I am totally sure I saw someone on here selling that same GPU waterblock.


I also found a decent review for you. it looks like the bigwater 735 works good:
http://www.xtremecomputing.co.uk/review.php?id=227&page=7
Click to expand...

one better though less complicated...if u stay with TT that is.

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Liquid/DIY/cl-w0121/cl-w0121.html

http://forum.thermaltake.com/viewtopic.php?t=2522
 
There are no quality kits from one manufacturer because watercooling is comprised of different components and there is no one manufacturer that is strong in all areas. So if you want good quality watercooling, make your own kit of the best components.

That's why the expensive all-in-one kits are often lower quality than a DIY kit that you put together yourself. Avoid them because you're wasting money.

On the other hand, if you're tempted to get a cheap all-in-one kit like thermaltake, ask yourself "why" you even want watercooling? I would always pick high end aircooling over low quality watercooling. I'd avoid them, because you're wasting money compared to air cooling.

Unless you have valid reasons, just make your own kit. Look at people's sigs or just go with Arcygenical recommendation.
 
echn111 said:
There are no quality kits from one manufacturer because watercooling is comprised of different components and there is no one manufacturer that is strong in all areas. So if you want good quality watercooling, make your own kit of the best components.

That's why the expensive all-in-one kits are often lower quality than a DIY kit that you put together yourself. Avoid them because you're wasting money.

On the other hand, if you're tempted to get a cheap all-in-one kit like thermaltake, ask yourself "why" you even want watercooling? I would always pick high end aircooling over low quality watercooling. I'd avoid them, because you're wasting money compared to air cooling.

Unless you have valid reasons, just make your own kit. Look at people's sigs or just go with Arcygenical recommendation.
Click to expand...


Thats not entirely true, Swiftech is quite good in all the areas, and their kits aren't too shabby either.
 
Even Danger Den has all in one solution u can PU at fry's...at least the one in Chicago has them for about 200. But he's right in the sense u get what you pay for but you can do pretty damn good with some of the ones quoted because they allow for expansion.

Do the research on the temps these AIW kits offer. They're comparable to those individual piece kits you buy.
 
Erasmus354 said:
Thats not entirely true, Swiftech is quite good in all the areas, and their kits aren't too shabby either.
Click to expand...

Good point. Swiftech kits are quite good. They source some components from elsewhere (i.e. the pumps are from Laing), but yes - they can be good value for money.

You can still do just as well, if not better, if you pick and choose your components as needed.
 
those thermaltake kits are just garbage and will cause more problems in the long run...many ppls acrylic water block cracks and leaks all over. so id spend the extra money cuz if u go thermaltake ur just goin to have to replace all the stuff it leaks over.
 
WOW, Tons of information in this thread, thanks for the replies!

I was thinking about that ThermalTake kit, but I wasn't really impressed with the temps shown in that review. (There are a few HS/F combos that would give the same amount of cooling for much cheaper.) The obvious benefit would be the silence, but still.....

Whats so bad about the ThermalTake solution? Are the blocks bad, or are the lines just low qualtiy and start leaking over time? I could just get my own tubing. That might not solve it, if its a bigger problem though....

I'm trying to keep this project as cheap as possible, but I definitely want reliability. The list of random components someone posted earlier looked great, but WAY too expensive. ($120 for the video card block alone?! I'll pass for now....)
 
ThermalTake has some serious quality control issues with their liquid cooling solutions.. leaks, corrosion, etc. Personally, I'd avoid.
 
Danger Den, Swiftech are good choices. Build your own is probably the best way to go and not go the 'KIT' route.

And passing on a VGA block due to the price, Is alittle bad. Think of it like this, You pay $250-$500 for a video card and a cheap block and disaster strikes: LEAK, Possibly frying your $250-$500 video card due to a faulty block by buying a cheap one thats not reliable, So getting a 'more' expensive one that has a reputation as top of the line, I think in my book is a VERY wise investment.

Another not so good choice is the overpriced Koolance EXOS, I've heard alot of people saying that it fails after a short time.

As the saying goes: You PAY for quality. Go cheap and take the risk.
 
The list of random components someone posted earlier looked great, but WAY too expensive. ($120 for the video card block alone?! I'll pass for now....)
Click to expand...

Well... What block are you gonna use then? Even if you buy a Thermaltake product, you're still in for at least 65$ for the GPU block. You could get an MCW60 with the right amount of ramsinks for about 65$.

And thermaltake is just crap. I don't even want to get into it. Avoid it like the plague.
 
Arcygenical said:
Well... What block are you gonna use then? Even if you buy a Thermaltake product, you're still in for at least 65$ for the GPU block. You could get an MCW60 with the right amount of ramsinks for about 65$.

And thermaltake is just crap. I don't even want to get into it. Avoid it like the plague.
Click to expand...

MCW60 + ramsinks for $60 is better than a full cover block at $120 that's only good for 1 specific model of a graphics card. With the MCW60 you won't have to spend another 120 when you want to upgrade to a newer card. The previously mentioned swiftech all-in-one from sidewinder is the best kit IMHO but if you're not afraid to spend a bit mroe and diy i'm sure you'll get more satifisfaction.
 
Arcygenical said:
What do you mean by dual rad?

The PA120.3 can dissipate around 450w of heat with yate loons at 12v. Your radiator could dissipate 9000w and still not get much of an improvement if you're cooling a single CPU and GPU. But the OP has, at max, 320w of heat dump... Making that extra 50$ or so go unused. An MCR320 with 3 yate loons at 7v will handle his setup no problemo.

Don't get me wrong, I love the Thermochill products, but only in specific situations, where this is not one.
Click to expand...
With MCR320 you need one more rad th be able to handle the heatload, with PA120.3 one is enough and you still have some headroom left and the accurat numbers are
as i wrote 600W for PA 120.3, 450W is for MCR320 and that with slow fans.
rocket733 said:
MCW60 + ramsinks for $60 is better than a full cover block at $120 that's only good for 1 specific model of a graphics card. With the MCW60 you won't have to spend another 120 when you want to upgrade to a newer card. The previously mentioned swiftech all-in-one from sidewinder is the best kit IMHO but if you're not afraid to spend a bit mroe and diy i'm sure you'll get more satifisfaction.
Click to expand...
Hate GPU-only blocks with ramsinks that will fall of soner or later, they always do and GPU-only do not cool all parts that needs to be cooled.
On 8800 GTX memory and VRM needs to be better cooled than air can do. Othervice you will get the "driver not responding issue" in Vista if you are unlucky and you blame, guess who for bad support in driver.
I have on the other hand no problem to sell my old FC-block at half price and get a new sexy and good performing EK-block when i change to next gen GPU.GX2 style or GTX/Ultra one GPU style.
But i are lucky not to buy in dollars so i assume living in Europe is a good thing when dollars is dirtcheap and EK is in europe and make a EK FC 23€ cheaper than a alu/Cu mixed Swiftech Stealth V2 that give a alu/cu mixed loop rather than the best CU-only and only is 24€ more than MCW60-R without ramsinks for 8800-series, they are 40€ more so dead race between EK FC8800 and MCW60-R with ramsinks for 8800-series if you get the EK-block on reseller that charge some extra than EK does if you get it from the source directly.
My choise is easy when price iswhat it is and EK only take up one slot(actually 1.6 but the slot under is usable anyway) and make use of slot under with some small tape on the bolt for cover of block to prevent shorting of PCI-card there.
 
With MCR320 you need one more rad th be able to handle the heatload, with PA120.3 one is enough and you still have some headroom left and the accurat numbers are
as i wrote 600W for PA 120.3, 450W is for MCR320 and that with slow fans.
Click to expand...

Where, per say, is this 450w of heat coming from?

A dualy conroe and an 8800GT != 450w of heat. Nowhere near that.

Also, the values were interpolated via Marci's released specs.

http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/PA1203HeatdissVSFlowrateGPM.jpg

So, no, sorry. They're far from accurate.
 
Arcygenical said:
Where, per say, is this 450w of heat coming from?

A dualy conroe and an 8800GT != 450w of heat. Nowhere near that.

Also, the values were interpolated via Marci's released specs.

http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/PA1203HeatdissVSFlowrateGPM.jpg

So, no, sorry. They're far from accurate.
Click to expand...
Comes from actuall reallife users on xtreemsystems so yes they are extremely accurat and proven by the chart thermochill put up, sorry to kill that for you.
This provs by the fact if you use 6 slow fans like Schyte S-flex or 3 faster ones like Schyte Ultra kaze with 2xMCP655(not needed as one MCP 655 can do it with right blocks) in series and keep a water flowrate over 1.5lpm, preferbly around 2lpm+ and (combined of 2 fans when using 6 fans) airflow over 108cfmper fan and airpreasure over 6.8 in the same way, thats easy with given setup and use the chart and voila you pinpoint 600W+ capability and with less noise that a Panaflow used to get that chart.
Waterflowrate calculated with martins waterflowestimator witch proven to be very accurat.
Extreme,ye tbut still not to extreme to not be doable on a normal system.
 
Sphere said:
WTF? That's a pretty bold statement.

I have the Swftech H20-220, which is a kit, my Q6600 is at 4.050, 3D Mark link to verify.

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=4346282
Click to expand...

(in response to my quote of "That's why the expensive all-in-one kits are often lower quality than a DIY kit that you put together yourself. Avoid them because you're wasting money."


Not really unless you take my quote out of context. My response was to the OP and he mentioned $400-500 kits. I have a reasonable idea which kits he is talking about and am curious why you somehow assume that the kit you mentioned falls into this category considering it is much cheaper. I fully stand by my recommendation to the OP to avoid these overpriced kits.

With regards to the H2O-220, with regards to the OP's requirements, he is looking at GPU and quad CPU cooling. If he were to heavily overclock "both", I would say that he should avoid the H2O-220 as the rad is too small to provide adequate cooling at a reasonable sound level (technically, he could put 4 extremely noisy deltas on, but he'd go deaf after a while). (EDIT CORRECTION: For the OP: If you're talking about a C2D and a 8800GT, then the H2O-220 is probably a reasonable choice. Forget it if you have a quad and GTX like me)

In fact, I'd say that a duel rad kit for the CPU only is borderline for a 4.050Ghz quad system. It "will" be a compromise - either a short duration (i.e. anything less than 24 hours at full stress) overclock or noisy, or both. (I prefer to have a 24/7, very quiet, 5 day+ prime stable overclock.)
 
LeviathanZERO said:
WOW, Tons of information in this thread, thanks for the replies!

I was thinking about that ThermalTake kit, but I wasn't really impressed with the temps shown in that review. (There are a few HS/F combos that would give the same amount of cooling for much cheaper.) The obvious benefit would be the silence, but still.....

Whats so bad about the ThermalTake solution? Are the blocks bad, or are the lines just low qualtiy and start leaking over time? I could just get my own tubing. That might not solve it, if its a bigger problem though....

I'm trying to keep this project as cheap as possible, but I definitely want reliability. The list of random components someone posted earlier looked great, but WAY too expensive. ($120 for the video card block alone?! I'll pass for now....)
Click to expand...

I think you might be happier going for the highest quality air cooling you can get. If you're looking to save money by getting lower quality items, you may be disappointed with the results. Even when it comes to the "obvious benefits of silence", you might find that high quality air cooling may be more quiet than sub-standard watercooling.

What are your requirements? So far you've said "price" and "reliability". Both these criteria are best met by high end air cooling, and not water.

For example, my primary motivation was "silence", followed by "power" (and stability). Basically a highly overclocked system that could run day and night very very quietly even under extreme stress. I never cared about my temps as long as they were under the threshold. Nor did I care about price. Nor did I care about extreme overclocking.

So watercooling, rather than Air/TEC/phase was the best choice. I started off with a Swiftech watercooling kit to experiment with, and, although it was a good kit, did not meet my requirements (was noisy for my overclock), so I had to spend more money...

In your case, and based only on what you've said about your two requirements (price and reliability), I really think air is best. (although if you have other requirements, this may change things)

p.s. that's not a list of "random" components that someone posted. That's a well thought out list that could beat most kits.
 
Comes from actuall reallife users on xtreemsystems so yes they are extremely accurat and proven by the chart thermochill put up, sorry to kill that for you.
This provs by the fact if you use 6 slow fans like Schyte S-flex or 3 faster ones like Schyte Ultra kaze with 2xMCP655(not needed as one MCP 655 can do it with right blocks) in series and keep a water flowrate over 1.5lpm, preferbly around 2lpm+ and (combined of 2 fans when using 6 fans) airflow over 108cfmper fan and airpreasure over 6.8 in the same way, thats easy with given setup and use the chart and voila you pinpoint 600W+ capability and with less noise that a Panaflow used to get that chart.
Waterflowrate calculated with martins waterflowestimator witch proven to be very accurat.
Extreme,ye tbut still not to extreme to not be doable on a normal system.
Click to expand...

I don't think English is your first language, so I'm gonna try my best to understand you here.

How is it proven by that chart? The one I posted?

100+CFM is NOT a slow/medium fan setup! You originally said that,

and the accurat numbers are
as i wrote 600W for PA 120.3, 450W is for MCR320 and that with slow fans.
Click to expand...

Which directly contradicts your 100cfm figure.

Sorry bud. 600w of cooling power with a PA120.3 requires 3 Deltas (or similar panaflows), 38mm thick with a static pressure higher than most dust busters.

I KNOW the Thermochill can dump 600w. That was never the issue.

I've PERSONALLY cooled an 8800GTS and E6300 (3.5ghz 1.45v) on a double BIP radiator with dual yate loon fans at 7v, and gotten acceptable temperatures.
 
Arcygenical said:
I've PERSONALLY cooled an 8800GTS and E6300 (3.5ghz 1.45v) on a double BIP radiator with dual yate loon fans at 7v, and gotten acceptable temperatures.
Click to expand...

My bad. Just noticed that the OP was talking about a C2D and GT not a quad. Depending on the OP's requirements, you could probably handle that with a dual 120mm rad like that provided by the h2o-220. (Would probably still be too noisy for me, but I have sensitive ears!)

(Still think he should go for air, if all he cares about is price and reliability)
 
Arcygenical said:
I don't think English is your first language, so I'm gonna try my best to understand you here.

How is it proven by that chart? The one I posted?

100+CFM is NOT a slow/medium fan setup! You originally said that,



Which directly contradicts your 100cfm figure.

Sorry bud. 600w of cooling power with a PA120.3 requires 3 Deltas (or similar panaflows), 38mm thick with a static pressure higher than most dust busters.

I KNOW the Thermochill can dump 600w. That was never the issue.

I've PERSONALLY cooled an 8800GTS and E6300 (3.5ghz 1.45v) on a double BIP radiator with dual yate loon fans at 7v, and gotten acceptable temperatures.
Click to expand...
100cfm is very easy to achive with 2 fans is push-pull config. So with 6 fans in push-pull config can i do with just about any slow fan i want, the only requirement is 50CFM/fan and thats low and any good 120mm fan do that and yes 1200rpm is slow, 2000 rpm is fast. You do NOT need deltas for that.
By using the chart given, a waterflow of 1+gpm wich with 3 blocks and PA120.3 and MCP655 is easy and with fans that is equal to the panflow in test you will get the same result.
By using Martins accurate WaterCoolingFlowRateEstimatorv1_7b i get 1.5GPM with 10feet 1/2" tuubing, 120.3, MCW30, Fuzion and EK FC8800 with only one MCP655 and 1+GPM is required for 600W.
If you use 6 fans for less sound or 3 for more sound is up to you, 6 good fans do it like schyte s-flex or 3 new ultra kaze, deltas is just overrated and not needed, the chart proved that and prows i CAN do it with slower fans to, just that i need 6 of them to keep airflow up so yes it is very mutch doable.
 
I don't imagine that, two yate loon fans at 12v would produce 100cfm when in series with that radiator.

Possibly two 2000rpm fans, but then the noise level is simply not worth it.

Either way, you're getting side tracked. My original assertion was that the OP only requires a MCR320 radiator, and not spend an extra 60$ or so for a radiator that isn't going to help him in the slightest. That's the issue at hand here, not what a PA can dissipate.
 
Arcygenical said:
I don't imagine that, two yate loon fans at 12v would produce 100cfm when in series with that radiator.

Possibly two 2000rpm fans, but then the noise level is simply not worth it.

Either way, you're getting side tracked. My original assertion was that the OP only requires a MCR320 radiator, and not spend an extra 60$ or so for a radiator that isn't going to help him in the slightest. That's the issue at hand here, not what a PA can dissipate.
Click to expand...

I´m not talking about cheap yates either, S-Flex produce over 50CFM and over 100CFM in series, then we hawe the new Ultra Kaze witch is awsome fans. They are not loud at all compared to 2000rpm:s or deltas/panaflow.
And besides higher waterflow gives that lower airflow needed for same level of cooling.
 
E.R said:
I´m not talking about cheap yates either, S-Flex produce over 50CFM and over 100CFM in series, then we hawe the new Ultra Kaze witch is awsome fans. They are not loud at all compared to 2000rpm:s or deltas/panaflow.
And besides higher waterflow gives that lower airflow needed for same level of cooling.
Click to expand...

Whatever buddy. Say what you want, but I'm talking from experience. The Kaze fans are nice, but they're rediculiously expensive. Using two of them in series adds 60$ to the price of the radiator, which furthers the uselessness of the PA120.3 to the OP. Also, Adding two fans in series increases performance by around 60%, not 100%. I've tested this with quite a few fans. If you think the Kaze 2000rpm fan is substantially quieter than a panaflow or delta 2000rpm fan, you've never used the two side by side, nor used a decibelmeter to measure this. I have.

Way to sidetrack the entire thread though. Kudos to you for that.

Also, your signature is in violation of Hardforum rules. I suggest you go read the FAQ.
 
Just to clarify, I do want silence, but also extreme overclockability.
Thats the reasoning for trying watercooling. I've never had a WC setup, which is why I'm asking you guys for info. From what I have gathered, I was interested in the Swftech H20-220, until I realized the rad is out side the case and would not only heat up my room, but silence would be nonexsistant if i was planing an overclock. (Which I am.)

Back to square one.

I'm still weighing all the options, including highend air cooling. Just dont want the computer sounding like a hoover. (Thinking about a Zalman VF1000 for the GT, havent decided on a CPU cooler yet. I want silence and performance. WC seems to be the best, but now I'm having 2nd thoughts.)

I wanted a quick solution, which is why I was asking about all-in-one kits. It sounds like thats not the way to go and that I need to put some thought into this. If thats the case, a noise to price ratio to the amount of time spent, is whats going to make my descion. (Including air setups, which of course will be way cheaper, but much harder to get complete silence.) I do understand I'll be spending more on a WC setup, just want to keep it as low as possible.

Ultimate goal here is at least 3.6Ghz on this CPU (4Ghz if possible, doubt it with my ram...), and just a stable OC on the GT. (Nothing too fancy, if it would stay stable at 710-720, thats good enough.)

I think that should give a good idea what I'm trying to do. Thanks guys, you all have been very helpful.
 
I will guarantee, on my reputation here on [H] that an MCR radiator with three yate loon fans will let you hit 4ghz on the CPU, and about 720mhz on the 8800GT and still not be heat limited.

Just FYI. The radiator being inside or outside of the case has no bearing on how quickly your room will heat up. Heat is heat, it can be exhausted, but not eliminated. Having the radiator inside, or outside, the case won't change the rate or extent of room heating.

Noise can be an issue though.

Here's what I suggest doing if you're skeptical of noise. Get three yate loon fans, run them at 12v, and place them where you plan on mounting the radiator (either inside the case, behind the case, or on top of the case) and see how loud they are. From 3 feet, you're looking at about 33dba with the case closed... About twice the loudness of a quiet whisper.
 
Arcygenical said:
Whatever buddy. Say what you want, but I'm talking from experience. The Kaze fans are nice, but they're rediculiously expensive. Using two of them in series adds 60$ to the price of the radiator, which furthers the uselessness of the PA120.3 to the OP. Also, Adding two fans in series increases performance by around 60%, not 100%. I've tested this with quite a few fans. If you think the Kaze 2000rpm fan is substantially quieter than a panaflow or delta 2000rpm fan, you've never used the two side by side, nor used a decibelmeter to measure this. I have.

Way to sidetrack the entire thread though. Kudos to you for that.

Also, your signature is in violation of Hardforum rules. I suggest you go read the FAQ.
Click to expand...
First, Ultra Kaze is only 11$ for one and that is cheap, even for beeing in dollars.
Second, my experience is different form yours accept that.
1db from Ultra kaze to Panaflow is not mutch on paper, but i reality it is way more since 3db is a 100% increse in soundlevel. I do have tested the ultra kaze and delta so i think the sound is better for at least my ear from the kaze than deltas even is it on paper is not mutch difference in sound level amd with higher waterflow you do not need 100CFM for the same heatdissapation, 600W and 3x100CFM was with low 1GPM waterflow and only one example, 1.5GPM reduces the airflow somewhat.
My sign it is not in any violation or has been.
And the sidetrack, is all your work, i just suggested to get the best out there, nothing wrong with that. Better get good stuff from the beginning rather than change later.
 
I accept that our opinions differ here, I have never not accepted that. But when you recommend something that the OP doesn't need, when he's aiming for a BUDGET build, you're defeating the entire purpose of this thread.

I don't see how a MCR320 would not be deemed "good stuff" in this situation.

You're basically suggesting the OP buy a SUV when all he needs is a compact. There's no reason for him to go PA120.3, as the heat is simply not there. If you wanted to go for overkill, he would be better off with two MCR320's than 1 PA series radiator, be at about the same price, and have almost twice the heat dissipation.

Then, 11$ a fan, requiring 6 of them to do a push/pull on the Thermochill = 66$.

Also, your sig was over the 10ln limit.
 
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