Is anyone using a 12VHPWR Cable Mod cable?

I'm just picked a Stealth Sense Cable version B which removes the tiny wires which is suppose to help prevent GPU blackouts I'll see how it goes.
I Just had a Blackout while booting into Windows not sure if it's Nvidia Drivers or the Cable.
 
Comixbooks said:
I'm just picked a Stealth Sense Cable version B which removes the tiny wires which is suppose to help prevent GPU blackouts I'll see how it goes.
I Just had a Blackout while booting into Windows not sure if it's Nvidia Drivers or the Cable.
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That's the one I got, I have had zero issues and it looks great, so much better than the first ones they came out with.
 
Comixbooks said:
I'm just picked a Stealth Sense Cable version B which removes the tiny wires which is suppose to help prevent GPU blackouts I'll see how it goes.
I Just had a Blackout while booting into Windows not sure if it's Nvidia Drivers or the Cable.
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Been a common driver problem for 50 series owners.
 
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Kinda worried about this I'm not sure what program he's using or if it will affect anything as far as my 5080 goes.
 
My Cable is in the mail today I should just call in for work and say yeah Larry the Cable Guy is fixing my PC.
It's still and x3 8 pin 600watt Cable I was going to go with a ATX 3.1 cable but I have x2 850 watt PSU both are good so I figured why mess with something
I picked up a Black one I figured it wouldn't look as bad I kinda wanted a Green one but wasn't sure if I would get sick of it.
 
Comixbooks said:
Kinda worried about this I'm not sure what program he's using or if it will affect anything as far as my 5080 goes.
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It all depends on if the power is tied together on the card side. Which I'm thinking it's not since you have software access to monitor current. But since I figured out the big Nvidia cards' real power requirements, I'm just going to desolder their junk connector and fit the proper one with 6 Ga power wires on a tiny riser board and mod the power supply for the new connector. You see, they are using politics to cover up their design flaw of using such connector, because the card itself might pass the regulatory lab and the power supplies too, but the combination does not conform to the regulatory guidelines.
 
I got my cable yesterday I ordered the wrong cable Power Plugs are weird I have no idea what type of cable it is
So I ordered the correct one for my EVGA what type of PSU cable is this it has slightly oversized connectors and no clips?


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Comixbooks said:
I got my cable yesterday I ordered the wrong cable Power Plugs are weird I have no idea what type of cable it is
So I ordered the correct one for my EVGA what type of PSU cable is this it has slightly oversized connectors and no clips?


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Not a clue what type it is , but I have a EVGA psu and it has the clips that you’re referring to, also they don’t look as big as those.
 
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Just installed new version B Cablemod cable no more tiny small smart sense wires. My cable management is a joke largely due to PSU on the bottom instead of those new cases where you hide the PSU in the back.

Update: Zero crashes since the new cable I had one flicker though but Nvidia App was opened same time.
 
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Well, I was playing Star Wars Outlaws for extended period of time and the card was easily pulling 530 watts routinely and running around 75-77 C. So I was like this is quite a lot of heat for this game. So I touched the cable and it was very hot almost pinching burn to the touch.
Is this something that others also experience when cards are pulling around 500+ watts. Most of my games thus far only pull 350-450 watts and with my 4090 on the same cable I was routinely pulling 520 watts but never touched it or anything.

It is also peak summer here and 24 C ambient with under the table possibly around 26-28 C as my PC sits there with an open window. First time I do this and check the card. All is good if you remain ignorant? Thoughts on possibly a better cable? I am using fasgear 3 8 pin to 1 12VPWHR cable.
 
The cable should not be very hot. A hot cable means power being dissipated in the cable = bad connection or damaged wire, or insufficient wire gage.

That said, your GPU is hot, and some of that heat will migrate to the wires. But they shouldn't be too hot to touch, imo. At least, you should be able to hold them for more than 5 seconds without being burned. If not, then I'd worry about the insulation breaking down.
 
I reconnected the cable and it is still hot to the touch. Yes I can hold for more than 5 seconds but it is really hot. Not your normal temperature. I don’t think it is 100 C or anything but definitely around the 70-80 C mark. However, I don’t have any thermal cameras to verify this. Or verify amperage on the wires.

Ordered an ammeter to see if I can measure amperage. Also ordered another Fasgear cable for good measure.
 
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You might want a 4 plug cable with your card if I were you just get a whole New PSU you said it's fairly old. 5090 with bad power supply might be the issue get a ATX 3.1
 
Why buy aftermarket stuff? Use what your PSU came with rather than risk cheap shit.

My Corsair 1200W Shift PSU cable is nice and cool with my 5090.
 
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My PSU is EVGA 1300 G2 from 2015. It doesn’t have a cable. My options are to use a spider setup or use aftermarket.

I can change the PSU but that’s gonna be a bitch. Let me try these hacks first. I never had an issue pulling 520 watts on my 4090 and this card pulls less so not sure wtf happened between a week ago (when I did remove the cable and reinserted it as I was checking to see if there is melting) and yesterday when I found it incredibly hot.
 
KickAssCop said:
My PSU is EVGA 1300 G2 from 2015. It doesn’t have a cable. My options are to use a spider setup or use aftermarket.

I can change the PSU but that’s gonna be a bitch. Let me try these hacks first. I never had an issue pulling 520 watts on my 4090 and this card pulls less so not sure wtf happened between a week ago (when I did remove the cable and reinserted it as I was checking to see if there is melting) and yesterday when I found it incredibly hot.
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For what it's worth - I've been using a 1300 G2 and then a 1600 T2 with my 4090 and a Cablemod E-series (older style right angle) adapter cable that has had no issues, has never gotten hot in testing under load either.
 
Yeah it’s nothing to do with PSU. I think I messed it up when I reinserted it last week. Also it’s hot only near the edge, not the whole cable which indicates I may have fubared the pin or something. The multi meter should clarify what happened.
 
I think I may have understood what was causing the heating of the cable. It’s been very warm and even with AC I noticed my card was climbing easily to 78 C. All this meant that the games I was playing (outlaws and stellar blade) were pulling around 500-530 watts even with my undervolt. To add to it my cable was passing through the air pass through and backplate was continuously overheating the cable. Plus I had bunched up the wires with a cable tie at the back which was just like having a cable first get cooked with the card exhaust and then further continue to burn up with the bunching up. All of this was leading to very high temps that my hand was getting pinched with the heat after a few seconds of holding the cable.

I have now reversed the cable to go under the card (sacrificing RGB) and also pushed up the pins from the back so they are even and reconnected. I ran valley similarly for like 20 mins and cable was still very hot to the touch but not hot enough to pull your hand away.

I do have a spare cable so I will try it out once my water cooler arrives as I will be opening the putter then. Until then, it should be fine to continue like this.

New cable routing where I have tried to keep RGB intact. 👀
 

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KickAssCop said:
Well, I was playing Star Wars Outlaws for extended period of time and the card was easily pulling 530 watts routinely and running around 75-77 C. So I was like this is quite a lot of heat for this game. So I touched the cable and it was very hot almost pinching burn to the touch.
Is this something that others also experience when cards are pulling around 500+ watts. Most of my games thus far only pull 350-450 watts and with my 4090 on the same cable I was routinely pulling 520 watts but never touched it or anything.

It is also peak summer here and 24 C ambient with under the table possibly around 26-28 C as my PC sits there with an open window. First time I do this and check the card. All is good if you remain ignorant? Thoughts on possibly a better cable? I am using fasgear 3 8 pin to 1 12VPWHR cable.
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Sounds like a bad cable to me.

i'm using a Cablemod 4 pcie (to fit my psu, plugged directly into the PSU) to 12vhpwr, that is plugged into a cheap 12vhpwr to 90 degree 12vhpwr cable I got from aliexpress (cheap meaning it was $12, the build quality seems fine) and it's gotten nearly 2 years of use after moving away from the cablemod 90 degree adapters that had problems. It's been fine as well as the Cablemod cable.
Haven't played that exact game though. I do have a thermal attachment for my cellphone, but haven't checked it while gaming.
Putting that on my todo list for later tonight.
 
So new cable installed and also tried running valley for 2-3 loops. Didn’t overheat. I could hold it without feeling any burn. I think I might have messed up the cable in my attempt to bend it etc.

So now I went with bog standard setup. Will continue testing.
 

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Fasgear was kind enough to say that they will issue a refund for my older cable. But to do that they wanted me to cut it so I sent them a pic. EDIT: They refunded the cable.

Not sure if refund is coming but it was satisfying.
 

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Cutting the cord is the solution. 3.1 Atx psu has universal fit connectors so it won't matter was psu you own if you own a atx 3.1 I have a exta 1000 watt psu if my 850 evga goes bad.
 
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I am thinking about the Lian Li Edge 1200 watts as a replacement PSU. Anyone got experience with it?

It will greatly reduce cables in my case as I won’t need a fan hub also (is built into the PSU).
 
I've had two Cablemod 12VHPWR cables fail. The first one was a Modflex. Stupidly, their cables have a part where some wires are simply shrinkwrapped together to "connect" them. I discovered one day that this wrap had failed at some point, and the wires were no longer connected.

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Second one was a Modmesh. The little locking clip on the connecter flew off, the 2nd time I inserted the cable into my GPU.

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chameleoneel said:
I've had two Cablemod 12VHPWR cables fail. The first one was a Modflex. Stupidly, their cables have a part where some wires are simply shrinkwrapped together to "connect" them. I discovered one day that this wrap had failed at some point, and the wires were no longer connected.
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So the wires were not soldered?? Manufacturing defect for sure. Reach out to them they should send a free replacement.
chameleoneel said:
Second one was a Modmesh. The little locking clip on the connecter flew off, the 2nd time I inserted the cable into my GPU.
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The 90 degree connector? That's one of theirs that I haven't ever bothered to order. After those 90 degree adapters had so many problems, I just went back to the 90degree adapter on a short cable that I got from aliexpress, since i had used it for like 2 months before the adapter came in and it had been fine.

Glad the 4pcie to 12vhpwr (straight, not angled) from them has been fine.
 
KickAssCop said:
Ordered a Lian Li Edge 1200 W.
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I wouldn't buy that. Only one 12V-2x6 connector, and I absolutely do not trust NVidia to not put 2 of them on the 6090. Maybe I'm a little PSU crazy. Had a PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 510W back in the day, now mostly run Seasonic Primes. But the point here is that I absolutely do not trust NV not to put two 12V-2x6 connectors on their next high end card. The other bit is the price difference between a Seasonic Prime TX-1300 and TX-1600 was less than $100, but the 1300 only had one 12V-2x6. So basically I'd go a little bigger and get two plugs since you're a solid 90 card buyer. If you thought the 5090 was a solid upgrade from the 4090 despite being on the same process wait until the 6090 comes out on a new process node. We're buying those unless our situations change. Or at least I am. Well, unless I get someone pregnant lol.
 
zandor said:
I wouldn't buy that. Only one 12V-2x6 connector, and I absolutely do not trust NVidia to not put 2 of them on the 6090. Maybe I'm a little PSU crazy. Had a PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 510W back in the day, now mostly run Seasonic Primes. But the point here is that I absolutely do not trust NV not to put two 12V-2x6 connectors on their next high end card. The other bit is the price difference between a Seasonic Prime TX-1300 and TX-1600 was less than $100, but the 1300 only had one 12V-2x6. So basically I'd go a little bigger and get two plugs since you're a solid 90 card buyer. If you thought the 5090 was a solid upgrade from the 4090 despite being on the same process wait until the 6090 comes out on a new process node. We're buying those unless our situations change. Or at least I am. Well, unless I get someone pregnant lol.
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That’s not a bad way to think about it. I am intrigued by the asrock 1600w at 249 right now on Newegg.

Having said that since I will be importing a PSU from US, the Newegg path means if I get a DOA I am screwed.

The Lian Li amazon order from USA is only costing me 20$ as I used my gift cards plus will have a 30 day return window. Plus Lian Li will honor warranty as it is shipped directly to me and not through a forwarder (which I will need to use for asrock/USA path).
 
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KickAssCop said:
That’s not a bad way to think about it. I am intrigued by the asrock 1600w at 249 right now on Newegg.

Having said that since I will be importing a PSU from US, the Newegg path means if I get a DOA I am screwed.

The Lian Li amazon order from USA is only costing me 20$ as I used my gift cards plus will have a 30 day return window. Plus Lian Li will honor warranty as it is shipped directly to me and not through a forwarder (which I will need to use for asrock/USA path).
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I have Lian Li 1000w version and have no complaint. The coil whine i had with my 4080s and a seasoning PSU also stopped.
 
GoodBoy said:
So the wires were not soldered?? Manufacturing defect for sure. Reach out to them they should send a free replacement.

The 90 degree connector? That's one of theirs that I haven't ever bothered to order. After those 90 degree adapters had so many problems, I just went back to the 90degree adapter on a short cable that I got from aliexpress, since i had used it for like 2 months before the adapter came in and it had been fine.

Glad the 4pcie to 12vhpwr (straight, not angled) from them has been fine.
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Yeah I gotta have 90 degree cables for my ITX case. Its 13 liters. Which is quite small. But, not super tiny. Its a design where you are still plugging the GPU directly into the motherboard. So, there isn't much extra width next to the GPU and the side panel. Its about as small as cases get, before they are forced to design around using a GPU riser.

I've had problems with two other cables. This one from Joyjom. Each 8 pin connector actually only has 6 pins. You can clearly see that two are missing. And they state that in the listing. And it means that the 4070 TI which I had (and returned due to major coil whine) and the 4070 TI Super I've been using, underperform on this cable. Not a ton. But, consistant. I just went through it again because I ordered a custom cable on Etsy from....

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.....Vamp Customs. And guess what-------their custom length cable showed up also missing two pins from each 8 pin connector. and it underperforms the exact same amount. I also waited longer than their quoted ship time.
I swapped between their cable, the one pictured above, using the adapter included with my GPU (which I can't close the case while using), and the cablemod cable which had the locking clip break off upon second insertion.

With the official adapter and the cablemod cable: MH:Wilds benchmark at 1440p DLSS Quality, is 97 fps for the final average score. And Riven Remake at 4k downsampled to 1440p, with DLSS Quality, is 118fps while loading the same exact spot and not touching the mouse or keyboard.

With the custom cable and the Joyjom cable, both which are missing two pins on each connector: MH: Wilds is 92fps and Riven is 106 fps. Riven at those settings, standing in that spot: should be maxing out my GPU's power at 275 watts. But, its more like 255.

So now I'm waiting for Corsair's official 90 degree cable (Which I didn't know they had one) to come off back order. I mean, I ordered it. But it is quoted to ship on July 25th. And its way longer than I would like in this case. But this has been ridiculous.

Too bad with the Joyjom cables. they are otherwise really nice, very flexible. and about 40CM in length. Which is a good length for a general cable to use in ITX builds which aren't super tiny.


There must be something about Corsair's design where you can technically leave out two pins and the cable still works. So, they do it to save a buck.
 
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Corsair PSU and cables are the ones with highest cases of melting. They are on my shitlist. Especially the 1000 watts.
 
My Asus ROG Astral 5090 is reporting nice, even loads from my Seasonic Prime TX-1600 & Seasonic native 12V-2x6 cable. "Mine seems ok" is about all I know about 12V-2x6 cables.
 
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What the Green Cable looks like just replaced my White Cable stealth sense version B. Realistically maybe I should of just went with Black but I'm no longer rocking White Snake.
 
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