If the wireless signal strength of a fibre modem is weak, what are the remedies?

Happy Hopping

Happy Hopping

Supreme [H]ardness
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Jul 1, 2004
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There is a Nokia fibre modem, in which the wireless signal is fading in / out, from the dining room to the PC room. What I am thinking is:

a) signal booster on the wall

b) move the modem from the co-ax cable spot w/ 100 ft. Ethernet, to reduce the distance from the Nokia to the PC room

c) a long time ago, I remember I have used this software that shows all the bandwidth of all the modems in a single apartment building, and you can switch the bandwidth from 1 band to another. But that was quite a no. of yr. ago, I totally forgot the name of that s/w. Can anyone remember? it's a shareware or freeware

is there anyone else that has some other trick?
 
The signal booster is a bad idea IMHO. Most use the same poor signal to boost in a different area and you are stuck with the same suck ass wifi.

I would get a good quality wifi router such as TP-Link Archer AXE75.
Run a Cat 6 line from modem to a good central location in you home or apartment and hook up your new router there.
I have two routers in my home on opposite side of the house off a fiber modem just ignore the wifi from the modem.

If budget is a concern try the TP-Link Archer AX10

You will be glad you did it. GL
 
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What Fiber ONT are you using (Little confused there since I hear Coax cable and Fiber modem at the same time)
Does the ONT you are using from Nokia have a Integrated Wireless and you're using the Beacon , or is the only signal coming from the Beacon 2?
 
Happy Hopping said:
I am aware of that trick. The problem is, the Nokia Beacon 2

https://www.nokia.com/networks/products/nokia-wifi-beacon-2/

only has 1 ethernet port, and she is using that port for her HDTV.

Now, I can try and see if her TV has wireless signal and switch.
Click to expand...
Buy a switch 4 or 8 port

TP-Link TL-SG108 is a good one​

And do your self a favor, hard wire as many devices as you can.

I have a Century Link ONT and connect directly to my Asus RT-AX3000 router with no need for a modem from my ISP,
It feeds my 2nd router.
 
Based my repeatedly horrible experiences, I would strongly advise AGAINST buying/using anything from the Toilet Paper company.....and go with a router from Netgear or Ubitquity....way better QA/QC as well as customer support after the sale....

you're welcome :)
 
dogDAbone said:
Based my repeatedly horrible experiences, I would strongly advise AGAINST buying/using anything from the Toilet Paper company.....and go with a router from Netgear or Ubitquity....way better QA/QC as well as customer support after the sale....

you're welcome :)
Click to expand...
If you're calling customer support concerning a consumer router for anything other than an RMA the problem is you. If you're repeatedly needing an RMA the problem is also more than likely you.
 
owcraftsman said:
Buy a switch 4 or 8 port

TP-Link TL-SG108 is a good one​

And do your self a favor, hard wire as many devices as you can.

I have a Century Link ONT and connect directly to my Asus RT-AX3000 router with no need for a modem from my ISP,
It feeds my 2nd router.
Click to expand...
I can connect the Nokia to a router who does have 4 ports. And have 1 of those port connects to the TV box. And use the wireless part of the router to wireless connects to the PC. I don't fix TV, so I have to ask a primitive question: can you connect the Nokia modem to a router, and from the router to the TV box?

Right now, it's a direct signal from that Nokia to the TV box.
 
Balkroth said:
What Fiber ONT are you using (Little confused there since I hear Coax cable and Fiber modem at the same time)
Does the ONT you are using from Nokia have a Integrated Wireless and you're using the Beacon , or is the only signal coming from the Beacon 2?
Click to expand...
cable modem. They just call it fibre speed for marketing purpose
 
Just get a cheap router with a good set of antenns and place it in AP mode in the firmware and use that instead of the built in wireless. Get a TP Link for like $50 and be done with it.
 
I just come back from that site. https://www.nokia.com/networks/products/nokia-wifi-beacon-2/

Once again, there is only 1 ethernet port. IT must be connected to that TV box. I have tried 2 different scenario: using a switch as well as using the Port 2 of a router,

so I connect

a) the Nokia box to the switch , and from the switch to the TV box. There is no signal for that TV box
b) the Nokia box to the router , and from the router to the TV box. There is no signal for that TV box

The TV box has to connect directly to the Nokia box.

As such, there is no choice but go thru wireless option

Now, on the receiving end, it's a USB wireless adapter. And someone told me a PCI E x 1 card w/ 2 antenna is considerably much stronger than a USB wireless adapter. Is that so?

because the only way to solve this intermittent failure is wireless.
 
Remove the beacon 2 from the equation completely. Attach your router wan port directly to the DOCSIS bridge/cable modem and then attach your TV and such to that. Forget the Beacon2.
 
What service is it? I'd probably just replace the Nokia with a good router since it's ethernet in from the ONT.
 
ND40oz said:
What service is it? I'd probably just replace the Nokia with a good router since it's ethernet in from the ONT.
Click to expand...
There is no ONT involved. OP said service is DOCSIS in #9. ISP uses words incorrectly in their marketing.
 
Nicklebon said:
There is no ONT involved. OP said service is DOCSIS in #9. ISP uses words incorrectly in their marketing.
Click to expand...

This is a terrible setup. So what is being used for a cable modem and who is the ISP? He really needs to figure out why the Nokia Beacon 2 has to have direct connection to the cable box for it to work. Will a double NAT work for the Nokia Beacon 2/Cablebox direct connect if a router is between the cable modem and the Beacon 2?
 
Nicklebon said:
Remove the beacon 2 from the equation completely. Attach your router wan port directly to the DOCSIS bridge/cable modem and then attach your TV and such to that. Forget the Beacon2.
Click to expand...
that's a new trick I haven't try. I can give that a go
 
ND40oz said:
This is a terrible setup. So what is being used for a cable modem and who is the ISP? He really needs to figure out why the Nokia Beacon 2 has to have direct connection to the cable box for it to work. Will a double NAT work for the Nokia Beacon 2/Cablebox direct connect if a router is between the cable modem and the Beacon 2?
Click to expand...
The following is an EDIT:


Okay, as a re-cap

WALL ----------co-ax cable ----------some tiny white color rectangular box ----------------Nokia Beacon 2 cable modem ------------(ethernet port 1 of Nokia cable modem)---------TV box.

as to internet (wireless only)
WALL ----------co-ax cable --------some tiny white color rectangular box -------------Nokia Beacon 2 cable modem ---------(wirelessly) to PC , as such, occasional signal loss w/ the "globe" icon at the bottom right and says no internet
 
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Happy Hopping said:
the beacon 2 IS the cable modem.

Okay, as a re-cap

WALL ----------co-ax cable ----------Nokia Beacon 2 cable modem ------------(ethernet port 1 of Nokia cable modem)---------TV box.

as to internet (wireless only)
WALL ----------co-ax cable ----------Nokia Beacon 2 cable modem ---------(wirelessly) to PC , as such, occasional signal loss w/ the "globe" icon at the bottom right and says no internet
Click to expand...

Something doesn't add up then, this link you provided doesn't show it being a cable modem: https://www.nokia.com/networks/products/nokia-wifi-beacon-2/

Do you have a link to the actual product?
 
EDIT: so the above diagram has now be re-do. The "tiny white rectangular box has no brand name. I already checked, it seems to be some generic made in China box w/ no name. So what guys are saying is, ditch the entire Nokia beacon 2 modem. And use a good router, such as the above TP Link instead. I thought that TV box needs that Nokia to work. But this is a great idea, let me give it a try
 
It should be this

WALL ----------co-ax cable --------bridge/cable modem ---ethernet---router --------- tv, pc, gaming console, switch or whatever (wirelessly or wired) (the beacon 2 should be sitting beside the trashcan unplugged from everything at this point)


The as you described it "some tiny white color rectangular box" should your bridge/cable modem. It likely has one coax port and at least one ethernet port. Use the same ethernet port that is plugged into the Beacon and instead attach your router. You will very likely need to reboot the cable modem after you've made the connection and possibly the router after the cable modem comes online.
 
Thank you very much. I'll give it a try next time I head down there. Really appreciate this
 
Here's an update: I finally have the time to go down there to setup the way you guys suggested. after replacing the Nokia w/ the router (asus) , it DOES work. However, the original signal fading out problem still exists. Today, I have installed an Asus PCE-AX1800 dual antenna adapter. So I now have an dual antenna from the PC room to a 3 antenna Asus Rt-AC65 router in the living room. Prior, I use a USB wireless adapter. Truthfully, I am not too optimistic w/ the newly installed PCE-AX1800 and the past few weeks situation is some days with some hr. there is internet , some other days in some hr. there is no internet.

So as of right now, we have:

Wall-------co-ax cable-----Cable modem----Asus RT-AC65 Router-----PC with Asus PCE-AX1800 dual antenna

What I really would like to know is:

1) does this technology called Asus AiMesh Extendable Router really works? or is it all hype?

https://www.asus.com/microsite/AiMesh/en/index.html

2) From the above link, near the top of the page, at the left side, there is a 3 antenna extendable router that the 3 antenna are quite long. Then in the middle, there is the 8 x antenna router, but the antenna is shorter but wider. Which one of these 2 type of antenna has better signal and how much different are there?


Suppose I need to get 2 extendable router, what's the best choice?

a) The 8 antenna router as the main router, and a 3 antenna router as an extended router

b) 2 separate 3 antenna router, 1 as main, 1 as extended?


3) to setup AiMesh Node , is it all firmware based, just like the above link shows?
 
I have two Asus routers both capable of AiMesh and used it for a year or so. It was every bit as potent as what I use now which is two separate routers.
The hype is warranted. I especially liked how seamleass the switching was when moving moble devices from one side of the house to the other. With one password one network it is seamless.
Add to that you have additional ports usable at the 2nd router and it's a win win. Performance is twice that of an extender due the it being hardwired.
That said with 2 separate routers cell phones switch automatically selecting the strongest signal and passwords are saved so no worries there either but sometimes you have to switch manually.
The real reason I switched to use them separate is to keep all my IOT things on one network for a bit more security.

I would not go by what an antenna looks like. I would look for reviewers you trust and go by their accessment of Wifi range and through put.
My preferred place to go is SmallNetBuilder but they took a hiades for 2 yrs and he is in the process of becoming current again. No one did testing as well and still don't.
For now I'd try CNET, WIRED of Toms Hardware, but expect to see Toilet Paper at the top of most list LOL @ dogDAbone

I like the Asus route because all options are available from AiMesh to separte routers and I had no issues eliminating the modem required with a fiber ONT.
 
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what do you mean "Being hardwired"? Because the 1st (main ) router would be hardwired from the cable modem. But the pt. of setting up this 2nd extended router is that there is no RJ-45 going to be connected to the 2nd router. So I thought we can do

Cable modem --------------1st main router --------------wireless connect -----------------2nd extendable router ------------------ wireless connect to PC

can the above be done? In short, can you wirelessly connect the 2nd router to the main?

=============

are you talking about 3:05 in this video?


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKNLahhf3e8

that there has to be a RJ-45 connects from the first router to the access pt. router? This can't be, that's not really wireless, is it?
 
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if it needs to be harrdwired permanently, can you do this:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHZ7ClS4IiM

have the main router connects to a 2nd extend router wirelessly:

wall------cable modem--------main Asus router ----------wirelessly to 2nd repeater Asus router-------------wirelessly to PC

if we do the above, would the signal be strong w/o losing connection?

Or, as an alternative, would these extender actually works? so keep the existing router, and connects it to their own brand extender?

https://www.asus.com/networking-iot...rs/all-series/filter?Category=Range-Extenders
 
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Hardwired means using an Ethernet cable to make a network connection instead of Wifi. I only use Wifi when a hardwired connection is not available. Anything less is a compromise and why people complain Wifi sucks look for extender and signal booster etc etc. You asked what are the Remedies. I can't offer a better one.
 
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Happy Hopping said:
I am aware of that trick. The problem is, the Nokia Beacon 2

https://www.nokia.com/networks/products/nokia-wifi-beacon-2/

only has 1 ethernet port, and she is using that port for her HDTV.

Now, I can try and see if her TV has wireless signal and switch.
Click to expand...
unless there is something weird going on with the DHCP scope, grab an inexpensive 8port gig switch, make it the connection to that single ethernet port and connect everything else to that.
One of those things should be a quality router which can function in AP mode (or a quality AP, dealers choice there).
Problem solved.
 
owcraftsman said:
Hardwired means using an Ethernet cable to make a network connection instead of Wifi. I only use Wifi when a hardwired connection is not available. Anything less is a compromise and why people complain Wifi sucks look for extender and signal booster etc etc. You asked what are the Remedies. I can't offer a better one.
Click to expand...
no kidding. I thought Asus has a better soln. than that. I thought they can make the primary router WIRELESSLY connect to the 2nd AP router, and then WIRELESSLY connect to the PC. Apparently they can't. So it's nothing but a hardwired soln. But from 1 router to the other, it's a very long cable.

Imagine if it's from the basement to the main floor, then their so-called AP router simply is impractical. Noone is going to nail a few hundred ft. of hardwired RJ-45 from the basement to the main fl.
 
Anyhoo, I encounter a new problem. I don't remember if this happen AFTER I go w/ the above soln. that I use the old Asus router to replace the Nokia router, or it did happen even before that. But here it is:

there is a mesg. saying "application failed", this is most likely a TSR MSN mesg. that display junk like weather, and somehow it can't get to the internet. But then when the user click Chrome and try to connect to internet, the entire screen went black. This is the 2nd time I've seen this in the past no. of days. The 1st time I seen it, I just re-boot the PC. Everything else on the PC is functioning just fine. Any idea what causes this black screen? I'm guessing it has a lot to do w/ the wireless internet connection as everything else seems to work fine. For e.g., Excel, MS Word etc.

meanwhile, I can do this, but I suspect that weak wireless signal has a lot to do w/ this:

https://support.google.com/chrome/t...enly-becomes-full-black-screen-entirely?hl=en
 
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Happy Hopping said:
Imagine if it's from the basement to the main floor, then their so-called AP router simply is impractical. Noone is going to nail a few hundred ft. of hardwired RJ-45 from the basement to the main fl.
Click to expand...
Guess I'm changing my name to Nemo. I ran at least a dozen runs from my basement to my attic through not one but two floors. A few of those then go from a patch panel in attic to second floor and others outside for cameras. I also ran 6 runs from the basement to my AV cabinet on the mains floor through the floor and 2 runs to the main floor ceiling for an AP and camera. This is not a hard thing to do just takes some patience, time and willingness to do things correctly vs half assed.
 
When you can't get a wireless signal to work, wired is the only way to go. See if a pair of powerline adapters work to get a hard wired connection (ethernet) to the computer. These should be cheap and easy to try out from a local electronics store.
 
okay, so here's a new update:

I can use inSSIDer to move to say chnl. 6 or 11 and log at 20MHz, but that software doesn't seems to work, is there any other alternative?

now, from some other website on the internet, they said that 5GHz bandwidth gives more chnl. but SHORTER distance, is that true?

https://www.lifewire.com/troubleshooting-dropped-signals-and-spotty-connections-2378239

and from this website, it says unassisted wifi signal is really only up to 150 ft.

so say we are not going to spend $ on Access point router for now.

1) does that mean the best soln. is still using 2.4GHz if we want longer distance?

2) also, w/ the 2.4GHz range, they recommend chnl. 1, 6, 11, is there certain favorite chnl. when it comes to the 5GHz badwidth range?
 
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