Yes the room was dark with no lights or leds from devices shining on the screen.ouch.. was your room completely dark when you took this picture?
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Yes the room was dark with no lights or leds from devices shining on the screen.ouch.. was your room completely dark when you took this picture?
For anyone running Eyefinity with these monitors, are you having any issues with the display port connection? It seems every time I turn off the monitor connected to the display port (with the front panel button, not the rear button), my 5870 seems to detect the display as being disconnected and disables Eyefinity.
If anyone is interested in my monitor settings i set to achieve the target indicators:
Brightness: 1
Contrast: 96
Color: R (157) G(173) B(152)
Brightness: 1
Contrast: 96
Color: R (157) G(173) B(152)
I'm not an expert whatsoever but i don't think that in upcoming reviews the black depth will be mentioned as the strong point of this monitor. There have to be better alternatives out there but they more than likely cost a bit more too..
So if this stuck pixel doesn't go away, what should I do? I assume I have to take it up with HP, but will they do anything about it?
Could you just maximize it? I'm hoping mine is fine but I'm also hoping I'll be able to spot things like this if need be, I'm trying it here on this laptop and I can't really see any color shifting, unless it's not as bad on TN panels or something.
I'll probably have lots of questions once I hook it up, I don't really want to look through 68 pages. There needs to be a sticky on calibrating/testing monitors.
From my impression, the black depth is better than that of the U2410 but definitely worse than that of the LP2475W (which was pretty good for an IPS!). It's been a while since I had them here, so take this with a grain of salt.Indeed there are better monitors when it comes to contrast and black depth, pretty much any *VA paneled monitor equipped with proper backlight control that is. They get black depth closer to 0.10 and contrast around ratio 1000:1, almost CRT levels. But what makes this so interesting is that LP2475w was one of the first IPS paneled monitors that got way above average scores when it came to blacks and contrast ratio, formerly a weak point of ALL IPS monitors. ZR24W supposedly replaces LP2475w, and I am waiting with great interest if it can be on par with it, or even better it. And all that possible goodness with real sRGB color gamut, wide gamut is what seriously degrades the LP2475W on normal use. As a gamer and movie watcher, blacks and contrast are one of the most important features when deciding what monitor to buy.
Yes the room was dark with no lights or leds from devices shining on the screen.
I concur with all the people who say this monitor is too bright. The first thing I did was turning it down to 0% -- and it still was very bright. (Of course it depends on the ambient light, but I don't think I will ever use it with a brightness higher than, say, 20%).
OK peeps, there is a difference between backlight bleed and polarizer glow. If on a black screen you see grey casting in the corners of the screen that goes away when you change angles to view it directly head on (i.e. shift your head so you are looking straight at the corner), that is polarizer glow, a.k.a. "IPS Glow".
Now if it does not go away, that is bleed, and will sometimes go away or lessen, if you press on the bezel surrounding the screen in various areas. The glow effect can be lessened by sitting further away from the monitor, the bleed will require a RMA or exchange, unless you care to disassemble your screen an try various fixes for bleed issues (voiding your warranty of course).
I'm posting this because one of the images above (the first one), appears to be the "glow" not bleed. Bleed would show up in the second photo.
Serendip1ty ... thanks so much for posting calibration results in post #1354.
Your results are very impressive ... however, from my experience calibrating monitors with my i1 Display LT (same hardware as i1 Display 2), the Eye One Match software is definitely not as good as many other packages out there.
I'd strongly recommend you download a trial of BasicColor or ColorEyes Display Pro ... you will get much more accurate results.
Just remember your 2.2 gamma is just the average gamma ... you don't know whether your gamma is
(for example) too high at 20% IRE and too low at 80% IRE.
If you're interested in this stuff, download a copy of ColorHCFR (it's free). This is an excellent piece of software I use to calibrate my plasma TV. It gives you a lot more insight into your calibration results ... like a graph of gamma vs IRE level.
So I bought a Spyder3 Express to try and calibrate my ZR24w and get it to look more like my 20WGX2. I think the results are now pretty good, still missing a little detail in the dark colors but not as bad as before.
The settings I used are the following.
Brightness - 0
Contrast - 100
R - 144
G - 110
B - 90
I got the following result and a black level of around 0.3 cd/m2
http://img72.imageshack.us/i/mysettings.jpg/
This is a bit strange since I also used serendip1ty's setting and got
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2855/serendip1tysettings.jpg
As you can see they are not even close, makes me wonder they are completely different panels/monitors. Mine is an VM633AT#ABB.
I'm going to see if I can lower my brightness a bit more since it still fells too bright at night.
Also I checked the 20WGX2 and I got a black level of 0.38 cd/m2 still fells like the black is better on the nec, bet the glossy coating have something to do with it .
It's not that surprising to get different results on different monitors of the same brand/model with identical settings ... there's a lot of variability among samples of the same product.
Some stuff like brightness/contrast tend to behave predictably, but RGB settings not so much.
If monitors of a particular brand/model were consistent, nobody would need to calibrate ... you could just copy somebody else's settings.
This is a bit strange since I also used serendip1ty's setting and got
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2855/serendip1tysettings.jpg
0.3 for black level is more like a mid range LG HDTV result rather than a monitor one.I got the following result and a black level of around 0.3 cd/m2
http://img72.imageshack.us/i/mysettings.jpg/
.
I did some testing because I wanted to compare Overdrive On/Off, and after all the comments that the ZR24w is great for gaming must say I'm not really overwelmed by the results. With Overdrive Off (not sure if "off" really means off) there is quite some ghosting and Overdrive On seems to make things only worse..
Here are some pictures:
http://img52.imageshack.us/i/overdriveoff2.jpg/
http://img177.imageshack.us/i/overdriveon.jpg/
0.3 for black level is more like a mid range LG HDTV result rather than a monitor one.
the 2475 has 0.17 and the new e-ips models have even deeper blacks.
Are u sure u have proper settings?
Brightness: 1
Contrast: 96
Color: R (157) G(173) B(152)
I did some testing because I wanted to compare Overdrive On/Off, and after all the comments that the ZR24w is great for gaming must say I'm not really overwelmed by the results. With Overdrive Off (not sure if "off" really means off) there is quite some ghosting and Overdrive On seems to make things only worse..
Here are some pictures:
http://img52.imageshack.us/i/overdriveoff2.jpg/
http://img177.imageshack.us/i/overdriveon.jpg/
Damn I just placed an order for this. Should I cancel? But there have been users here who have reported low input lag and no ghosting they can see.
I am just judging from second picture. It seems to leave noticeable dark blue trail behind the car. LP2475w leaves too, and this makes, for example, clouds on sky trail bit badly at the times. LP2475w is fast in IPS standards. It cannot keep up with fast TNs but its quick enough for any game IMHO. If ZR24w is atleast as fast at that, its good. Negative ghosting however is worse issue than speed.
I have a single green stuck pixel The monitor is great otherwise.
Are you going to try to get a replacement? I just think for $400 I should be able to get one that is perfect, despite a single pixel not being a huge distraction.
ShopBLT says this about pixel policies:
"Return / exchange requests for "dead pixels" are subject to each manufacturer's policy. Consult the manufacturer before purchasing or requesting an RMA. If your item does not qualify for return / exchange under the manufacturer's policy, then it does not qualify under ours, as the item is not considered defective."
So I wonder if HP won't do anything about it if I could show ShopBLT their 0 pixel policy or whatever and have them honor it? What would you guys do?
I am just judging from second picture. It seems to leave noticeable dark blue trail behind the car. LP2475w leaves too, and this makes, for example, clouds on sky trail bit badly at the times. LP2475w is fast in IPS standards. It cannot keep up with fast TNs but its quick enough for any game IMHO. If ZR24w is atleast as fast at that, its good. Negative ghosting however is worse issue than speed.
Correct, I forgot to mention this, sorry. There is no negative ghosting in "Overdrive Off" mode. Judging from my picture and those @tftcentral.co.uk, the behavior is very similar to the NEC EA231WMi.The second picture is with overdrive on. Overdrive just tries to overshoot the correct pixel color in an effort to make the (analog) LCD panel change colors faster. If the specific overdrive implementation doesn't switch back to the proper voltage fast enough, you get negative ghosting. This is not uncommon with overdrive implementations. The first picture does not appear to display any negative ghosting.