HP ZR24w

siliconnerd said:
For anyone running Eyefinity with these monitors, are you having any issues with the display port connection? It seems every time I turn off the monitor connected to the display port (with the front panel button, not the rear button), my 5870 seems to detect the display as being disconnected and disables Eyefinity.
Click to expand...

Such is the case
 
serendip1ty said:
If anyone is interested in my monitor settings i set to achieve the target indicators:

Brightness: 1
Contrast: 96
Color: R (157) G(173) B(152)
Click to expand...

thanks, these settings work great for me. i posted a (sort of dramatic) pic earlier showing bad black-levels on my monitor, but with these settings it looks better (i had it at sRG, 76 contrast, 20 brightness). black-levels are better now, although gaming at night without a light behind the monitor is still out of the question.

it does make me wonder though : who engineered this beast to such incredible brightness in the first place if calibrating it means turning it down to 1...
 
Alright, I got it set up but unfortunately have a stuck pixel it seems... a green one. It's barely noticeable since they're so tiny, but are there any methods that actually work to unstick it? I don't notice anything else wrong, just that.
 
serendip1ty said:
I'm not an expert whatsoever but i don't think that in upcoming reviews the black depth will be mentioned as the strong point of this monitor. There have to be better alternatives out there but they more than likely cost a bit more too..
Click to expand...


Indeed there are better monitors when it comes to contrast and black depth, pretty much any *VA paneled monitor equipped with proper backlight control that is. They get black depth closer to 0.10 and contrast around ratio 1000:1, almost CRT levels. But what makes this so interesting is that LP2475w was one of the first IPS paneled monitors that got way above average scores when it came to blacks and contrast ratio, formerly a weak point of ALL IPS monitors. ZR24W supposedly replaces LP2475w, and I am waiting with great interest if it can be on par with it, or even better it. And all that possible goodness with real sRGB color gamut, wide gamut is what seriously degrades the LP2475W on normal use. As a gamer and movie watcher, blacks and contrast are one of the most important features when deciding what monitor to buy.
 
My first post! Just want relay to you guys my experience so far with this monitor. Ordered it on Tuesday from Buy.com and got it shipped to me on Thursday. I live in Cali and they have a warehouse nearby.

So fair this monitor rocks! the color reproduction and viewing angle is considerably better than my Dell E2407WFP. It is very bright display, I have my brightness set to 20 and contrast at 70. Still pretty bright at these settings. Overall the monitor produces text that is sharper than my Dell.
 
My 2 monitors from ShopBLT just came in today. Crossing my fingers hoping for no dead pixels or other issues.
 
So if this stuck pixel doesn't go away, what should I do? I assume I have to take it up with HP, but will they do anything about it?
 
Dunno if anyone noticed this, but TFTCentral has a notice that ZR24w review is coming soon...
 
ice_141 said:
Could you just maximize it? I'm hoping mine is fine but I'm also hoping I'll be able to spot things like this if need be, I'm trying it here on this laptop and I can't really see any color shifting, unless it's not as bad on TN panels or something.

I'll probably have lots of questions once I hook it up, I don't really want to look through 68 pages. There needs to be a sticky on calibrating/testing monitors.
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No. Keep the blank Notepad window small (200 x 200 pixels). That's how you will detect the color shift easily.

Edit: For those who missed it, I advise that dragging a small blank Notepad window around the screen is an easy way to test for color shifts. Drag back and forth between two spots - left to right, top to bottom, or one corner to another.
 
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I concur with all the people who say this monitor is too bright. The first thing I did was turning it down to 0% -- and it still was very bright. (Of course it depends on the ambient light, but I don't think I will ever use it with a brightness higher than, say, 20%).

MaZa said:
Indeed there are better monitors when it comes to contrast and black depth, pretty much any *VA paneled monitor equipped with proper backlight control that is. They get black depth closer to 0.10 and contrast around ratio 1000:1, almost CRT levels. But what makes this so interesting is that LP2475w was one of the first IPS paneled monitors that got way above average scores when it came to blacks and contrast ratio, formerly a weak point of ALL IPS monitors. ZR24W supposedly replaces LP2475w, and I am waiting with great interest if it can be on par with it, or even better it. And all that possible goodness with real sRGB color gamut, wide gamut is what seriously degrades the LP2475W on normal use. As a gamer and movie watcher, blacks and contrast are one of the most important features when deciding what monitor to buy.
Click to expand...
From my impression, the black depth is better than that of the U2410 but definitely worse than that of the LP2475W (which was pretty good for an IPS!). It's been a while since I had them here, so take this with a grain of salt.
I did a side-by-side comparison with my ~5 year old PVA and it blows away the ZR24w in black and contrast (also rated 1:1000), so I highly doubt it's anywhere near the 1:1000. On the other hand the IPS panel clearly wins in color and response time.
So I'd say it's a 1:1 for me. FWIW, I have yet to see an IPS panel that beats a PVA in terms of black and contrast.

Compared to the U2410, text looks much better, and color uniformity on mine is excellent.
 
Got both of mine today, no dead pixels and no obvious tint problems but haven't really given them both a good testing. I prefer the true sRGB of these over the wide gamut of the u2410 I had even in sRGB emulation mode. Gotta get a 5870 and another one of these next. :)
 
Forever1 said:
Yes the room was dark with no lights or leds from devices shining on the screen.
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Definitely RMA.. man that really sucks to recieve 2 defective monitors.

I myself took a 'risk' ordering this screen from another country (ordered it from germany, i'm from belgium), the price difference was the deciding factor but I really wasn't looking forward to possible problems, sending it back & all the hassle/stress around it.

and said:
I concur with all the people who say this monitor is too bright. The first thing I did was turning it down to 0% -- and it still was very bright. (Of course it depends on the ambient light, but I don't think I will ever use it with a brightness higher than, say, 20%).
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Too bright is an understatement really.. i don't understand how the factory default settings got approved to begin with..
 
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OK peeps, there is a difference between backlight bleed and polarizer glow. If on a black screen you see grey casting in the corners of the screen that goes away when you change angles to view it directly head on (i.e. shift your head so you are looking straight at the corner), that is polarizer glow, a.k.a. "IPS Glow".

Now if it does not go away, that is bleed, and will sometimes go away or lessen, if you press on the bezel surrounding the screen in various areas. The glow effect can be lessened by sitting further away from the monitor, the bleed will require a RMA or exchange, unless you care to disassemble your screen an try various fixes for bleed issues (voiding your warranty of course).

I'm posting this because one of the images above (the first one), appears to be the "glow" not bleed. Bleed would show up in the second photo.
 
vick1000 said:
OK peeps, there is a difference between backlight bleed and polarizer glow. If on a black screen you see grey casting in the corners of the screen that goes away when you change angles to view it directly head on (i.e. shift your head so you are looking straight at the corner), that is polarizer glow, a.k.a. "IPS Glow".

Now if it does not go away, that is bleed, and will sometimes go away or lessen, if you press on the bezel surrounding the screen in various areas. The glow effect can be lessened by sitting further away from the monitor, the bleed will require a RMA or exchange, unless you care to disassemble your screen an try various fixes for bleed issues (voiding your warranty of course).

I'm posting this because one of the images above (the first one), appears to be the "glow" not bleed. Bleed would show up in the second photo.
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So I guess I'm okay then? Those are 2 different monitors by the way.
 
got my replacement today... got to love onsite warranty.

so far so good... no pixel problems, tinting, etc. playing around with settings (mac user).
Anyone else using it with a mac?
 
Serendip1ty ... thanks so much for posting calibration results in post #1354.

Your results are very impressive ... however, from my experience calibrating monitors with my i1 Display LT (same hardware as i1 Display 2), the Eye One Match software is definitely not as good as many other packages out there.

I'd strongly recommend you download a trial of BasicColor or ColorEyes Display Pro ... you will get much more accurate results.

Just remember your 2.2 gamma is just the average gamma ... you don't know whether your gamma is
(for example) too high at 20% IRE and too low at 80% IRE.

If you're interested in this stuff, download a copy of ColorHCFR (it's free). This is an excellent piece of software I use to calibrate my plasma TV. It gives you a lot more insight into your calibration results ... like a graph of gamma vs IRE level.
 
So I bought a Spyder3 Express to try and calibrate my ZR24w and get it to look more like my 20WGX2. I think the results are now pretty good, still missing a little detail in the dark colors but not as bad as before.
The settings I used are the following.

Brightness - 0
Contrast - 100
R - 144
G - 110
B - 90

I got the following result and a black level of around 0.3 cd/m2
http://img72.imageshack.us/i/mysettings.jpg/

This is a bit strange since I also used serendip1ty's setting and got
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2855/serendip1tysettings.jpg

As you can see they are not even close, makes me wonder they are completely different panels/monitors. Mine is an VM633AT#ABB.

I'm going to see if I can lower my brightness a bit more since it still fells too bright at night.

Also I checked the 20WGX2 and I got a black level of 0.38 cd/m2 still fells like the black is better on the nec, bet the glossy coating have something to do with it :D.
 
I don't think I can live with 140 cd/m2 with brightness turned all the way down ... this monitor is just too bright for me. I typically work in very subdued light conditions at night.

This seems to be a trend lately. I found both the 2209WA and U2410 screamingly bright as well.

I guess it makes the manufacturer's claimed contrast ratio specs look good. If you have really high peak luminance, you can get attractive contrast ratio specs even if your minimum luminance isn't so hot.

It's kind of like those LCD TV's in stores in torch mode by default. It makes them look great in store lighting conditions. It isn't an indication of picture quality.
 
It's not that surprising to get different results on different monitors of the same brand/model with identical settings ... there's a lot of variability among samples of the same product.

Some stuff like brightness/contrast tend to behave predictably, but RGB settings not so much.
If monitors of a particular brand/model were consistent, nobody would need to calibrate ... you could just copy somebody else's settings.
 
rberger said:
Serendip1ty ... thanks so much for posting calibration results in post #1354.

Your results are very impressive ... however, from my experience calibrating monitors with my i1 Display LT (same hardware as i1 Display 2), the Eye One Match software is definitely not as good as many other packages out there.

I'd strongly recommend you download a trial of BasicColor or ColorEyes Display Pro ... you will get much more accurate results.

Just remember your 2.2 gamma is just the average gamma ... you don't know whether your gamma is
(for example) too high at 20% IRE and too low at 80% IRE.

If you're interested in this stuff, download a copy of ColorHCFR (it's free). This is an excellent piece of software I use to calibrate my plasma TV. It gives you a lot more insight into your calibration results ... like a graph of gamma vs IRE level.
Click to expand...

Thx for the info, i'll look for the software & update my results in this thread.

Also http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/ should have a review up in a couple of days..

Naquid said:
So I bought a Spyder3 Express to try and calibrate my ZR24w and get it to look more like my 20WGX2. I think the results are now pretty good, still missing a little detail in the dark colors but not as bad as before.
The settings I used are the following.

Brightness - 0
Contrast - 100
R - 144
G - 110
B - 90

I got the following result and a black level of around 0.3 cd/m2
http://img72.imageshack.us/i/mysettings.jpg/

This is a bit strange since I also used serendip1ty's setting and got
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2855/serendip1tysettings.jpg

As you can see they are not even close, makes me wonder they are completely different panels/monitors. Mine is an VM633AT#ABB.

I'm going to see if I can lower my brightness a bit more since it still fells too bright at night.

Also I checked the 20WGX2 and I got a black level of 0.38 cd/m2 still fells like the black is better on the nec, bet the glossy coating have something to do with it :D.
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My product number is VM633A, where is the second part of that code located on the back? Didn't find anything that resembles it.

rberger said:
It's not that surprising to get different results on different monitors of the same brand/model with identical settings ... there's a lot of variability among samples of the same product.

Some stuff like brightness/contrast tend to behave predictably, but RGB settings not so much.
If monitors of a particular brand/model were consistent, nobody would need to calibrate ... you could just copy somebody else's settings.
Click to expand...

Naquid said:
This is a bit strange since I also used serendip1ty's setting and got
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2855/serendip1tysettings.jpg
Click to expand...

Is it normal that the color temperature is THAT much higher with my settings? It seems like a pretty big difference... did you use the settings posted in #1354?
 
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and said:
I did some testing because I wanted to compare Overdrive On/Off, and after all the comments that the ZR24w is great for gaming must say I'm not really overwelmed by the results. With Overdrive Off (not sure if "off" really means off) there is quite some ghosting and Overdrive On seems to make things only worse..

Here are some pictures:
http://img52.imageshack.us/i/overdriveoff2.jpg/
http://img177.imageshack.us/i/overdriveon.jpg/
Click to expand...


Seems like ZR24W also suffers from negative ghosting (dark trails) just like LP2475w, badly adjusted overdrive. I guess this settles it, this monitor is not worth my money. If bad black depth, thanks to too bright backlight, is true (will wait for TFTCentrals comparison) and it suffers from same problems as LP2475w minus wide gamut, then I'm out.
 
drtc said:
0.3 for black level is more like a mid range LG HDTV result rather than a monitor one.
the 2475 has 0.17 and the new e-ips models have even deeper blacks.
Are u sure u have proper settings?
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Not exactly sure, but I remember Spyder softwares having problem in measuring proper black depth. I would wait for TFT Centrals review and see if they measure black depth in various brightness settings.
 
serendip1ty said:
Brightness: 1
Contrast: 96
Color: R (157) G(173) B(152)
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this info. I had "calibrated" mine using my eyes and had brightness(3), contrast(75), and default 6500k colors. Those settings weren't bad, but using yours, the display looks even better.
 
and said:
I did some testing because I wanted to compare Overdrive On/Off, and after all the comments that the ZR24w is great for gaming must say I'm not really overwelmed by the results. With Overdrive Off (not sure if "off" really means off) there is quite some ghosting and Overdrive On seems to make things only worse..

Here are some pictures:
http://img52.imageshack.us/i/overdriveoff2.jpg/
http://img177.imageshack.us/i/overdriveon.jpg/
Click to expand...

Thats somewhat disheartening. I guess I will wait to see what some of the pro reviews say about lag as I was ready to buy 3 of these for an eyefinity setup. :(
 
Damn I just placed an order for this. Should I cancel? But there have been users here who have reported low input lag and no ghosting they can see.
 
Howie said:
Damn I just placed an order for this. Should I cancel? But there have been users here who have reported low input lag and no ghosting they can see.
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I am just judging from second picture. It seems to leave noticeable dark blue trail behind the car. LP2475w leaves too, and this makes, for example, clouds on sky trail bit badly at the times. LP2475w is fast in IPS standards. It cannot keep up with fast TNs but its quick enough for any game IMHO. If ZR24w is atleast as fast at that, its good. Negative ghosting however is worse issue than speed.
 
MaZa said:
I am just judging from second picture. It seems to leave noticeable dark blue trail behind the car. LP2475w leaves too, and this makes, for example, clouds on sky trail bit badly at the times. LP2475w is fast in IPS standards. It cannot keep up with fast TNs but its quick enough for any game IMHO. If ZR24w is atleast as fast at that, its good. Negative ghosting however is worse issue than speed.
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Thanks. I suppose the Zr24w is still a good buy considering my other options were the ea231wmi and the U2410. The former has reportedly some ghosting and the latter has tinting problems among other things.
 
kaddar said:
I have a single green stuck pixel :( The monitor is great otherwise.
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Are you going to try to get a replacement? I just think for $400 I should be able to get one that is perfect, despite a single pixel not being a huge distraction.


ShopBLT says this about pixel policies:

"Return / exchange requests for "dead pixels" are subject to each manufacturer's policy. Consult the manufacturer before purchasing or requesting an RMA. If your item does not qualify for return / exchange under the manufacturer's policy, then it does not qualify under ours, as the item is not considered defective."

So I wonder if HP won't do anything about it if I could show ShopBLT their 0 pixel policy or whatever and have them honor it? What would you guys do?
 
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ice_141 said:
Are you going to try to get a replacement? I just think for $400 I should be able to get one that is perfect, despite a single pixel not being a huge distraction.


ShopBLT says this about pixel policies:

"Return / exchange requests for "dead pixels" are subject to each manufacturer's policy. Consult the manufacturer before purchasing or requesting an RMA. If your item does not qualify for return / exchange under the manufacturer's policy, then it does not qualify under ours, as the item is not considered defective."

So I wonder if HP won't do anything about it if I could show ShopBLT their 0 pixel policy or whatever and have them honor it? What would you guys do?
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I'm sure if you call HP they will replace it.
 
MaZa said:
I am just judging from second picture. It seems to leave noticeable dark blue trail behind the car. LP2475w leaves too, and this makes, for example, clouds on sky trail bit badly at the times. LP2475w is fast in IPS standards. It cannot keep up with fast TNs but its quick enough for any game IMHO. If ZR24w is atleast as fast at that, its good. Negative ghosting however is worse issue than speed.
Click to expand...

The second picture is with overdrive on. Overdrive just tries to overshoot the correct pixel color in an effort to make the (analog) LCD panel change colors faster. If the specific overdrive implementation doesn't switch back to the proper voltage fast enough, you get negative ghosting. This is not uncommon with overdrive implementations. The first picture does not appear to display any negative ghosting.
 
rogue_jedi said:
The second picture is with overdrive on. Overdrive just tries to overshoot the correct pixel color in an effort to make the (analog) LCD panel change colors faster. If the specific overdrive implementation doesn't switch back to the proper voltage fast enough, you get negative ghosting. This is not uncommon with overdrive implementations. The first picture does not appear to display any negative ghosting.
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Correct, I forgot to mention this, sorry. There is no negative ghosting in "Overdrive Off" mode. Judging from my picture and those @tftcentral.co.uk, the behavior is very similar to the NEC EA231WMi.
 
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