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Help troubleshooting high temps....

Joined
Nov 16, 2006
Messages
50
Just set up a new box and my temps are running really high. I just got the system together and started monitoring temps. I am idling around 48-51C and under Orthos that goes up to around 56-58C. THIS IS AT STOCK SPEEDS!

Hoping to overclock this E6600 to around 3.4-3.6 but with temps like that at stock I am not holding my breath. I want to stay under the recommended ~60C recommended by Intel.

I am using an MCP655 pump with a Storm Rev 2 and the BFG 8800GTX water cooled edition. The case is an Gigabyte 3D Aurora (http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=810).

The case has 1 x 120mm intake fan up front however it is mostly blocked by the drive cage. In the rear there are 2 x 120 exhaust fans which I have blowing from inside the case through a Black Ice Xtreme II Dual 120mm(http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/blicextiidu1.html) radiator.

I am running the Striker Extreme with a E6600 and 2 x 1 gig sticks of Crucial 10th Anniversary DDR2 RAM (http://www.hardware.info/en-US/news/ym2cmZqUwp2a/Crucial_offers_10th_Anniversary_memory_module/).

I have two raptor 10k and one 7200 hard drives, two dvd roms and Sound Blaster X-Fi.

So...I have lapped the block (albeit first time so no telling how well) and used ceramique (not too little...not too much), my coolant is running around 42C and I have attached the optional fan that comes with the Striker to the copper sink above the NB.

My first thought is to add an additional fan(s) on the outside of the rad to pull air across instead of just the two internals pushing. Think that would make the difference or are there other issues going on here? I could swap out the window for a perforated metal side door...but that takes away my pretty view :(

Welcoming all ideas....thanks!
 
So...I have lapped the block (albeit first time so no telling how well) and used ceramique (not too little...not too much)

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
You lapped the STORM?
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I can see the need to lap some of the heatsinks for air cooling products... but most watercooling blocks are as flat as you're gonna get them. Hand lapping won't help, and may actually hurt. Lapping the IHS on your conroe may help some (reports of concave IHS's).

First thing to try.... reseat your waterblock.
During the removal, check to see how the contact area looks (see how the ceramique was distributed under compression), that will give you an indication of what kind of contact is in place. I'd also recommend you visit Arctic Silver's website on their recommendations on how to apply their products for different CPUs.

If your case temps are high (lack of decent flow), and you're pushing that hot air through the rad, you're compounding your problem(s). Try to get better airflow INTO the case. How's your cable management? Does it look like a RAT made a nest inside your computer?
 
If your case temps are high (lack of decent flow), and you're pushing that hot air through the rad, you're compounding your problem(s). Try to get better airflow INTO the case. How's your cable management? Does it look like a RAT made a nest inside your computer?

I agree completely, the ability of that rad to dissiapte heat depends on the difference in the temp of the fluid flowing thru it and the temp of the air blowing thru it.

Do whatever it takes to open up your airflow, look at somehow getting more cool air into the case to anyway you can.

One way to test is to pull the side cover off and leave it off, if you temps go down a lot you have found the problem. If not, reseat that block, it might could use a little more clamping force.
 
I know removing the side lowers temps....the ambient inside the case was running around 44C. Taking that into consideration I think you are on the right track with the intake air.
Those copper pipes put off a TON of heat and where registering around 57C.

As for cabling...I have cleaned up as much as I could but it is still a little more cluttered than I would like. I think for now I am going to pull out all extraneous items (lighting and such) although the tubing itself probably could have been laid out a bit more efficiently. I wasn't expecting this problem so didn't think that through.

I will test the system using the perforated metal side that came with it and see what that does. I am not sure how else to get more air into the case without pulling it apart and modding it.


Thanks!
 
Your water temperature can never be lower than the temperature of the air moving through the radiator.

Therefore, if your ambient temps are 44c, and your radiator feed air is also 44c...
 
BTW

How long should I run Orthos when just doing it for the purposes of a temp check? 20-30 mins?
 
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