Help me build an extreme gaming pc, need advices on components

Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by RoMaFe23, Jul 3, 2018.

  1. RoMaFe23

    RoMaFe23 n00bie

    Jul 3, 2018
    My budget is around 10.000$
    I am planning to build a very high-end pc, mostly for gaming.

    I do need help in builiding it, starting from the case selection going down to the details, peripherals and so on..
    Please provide as much answers as you can, especially regarding the peripherals.
    Please provide as much details as possible.

    My plan was a gpu sli composed of 2 high-tier gpus and a custom liquid cooling system.
    I'll post a few screenshots showing some moddded pcs I like:
    570x dual gpu:
    570x + ll120 fans:
    570x + ml120 fans:
    570x + custom liquid cooling:
    570x insight on cusom liquid cooling:
    anidees AI crystal timelapse mod:

    General questions:
    1. Will a middle-tower case, like the "Corsair 570x crystal", be spacious/wide enough to sustain such a build? (I showed some pictures with dual gpu build and liquid cooling, but it looks very narrow).
    1b. If not, I'd like to pick the "anidees AI Crystal", which is a full-tower case that looks incredibly good to me, but I never heard of the "anidees" company before.. are they trustable/reliable as sellers?
    1c. Will there be any compatibility problems with the 11xx series?
    2. Should I wait for the 1180 series to be released or should I get 1080 ti instead? I just read that 1180 will probably be mounting GDDR6 memory, which may be far better than the current GDDR5 mounted by most gpus. I wouldn't care about a 20% performance increase, but I fear that this may be a little "gap" in the gaming world.
    2b. If yes, what can I get as a substitute in my build? I was planning to get a 1050 Ti.
    2c. What about the custom liquid cooling system? I am gonna ask a local shop to build it (I'm not good with pipes and stuff). If the clcs (custom liquid cooling system, from now on "clcs") is planned for a single gpu how much tedious is to change it to fit 2 gpus (2x 1180)?
    3. Is a 1000W PSU enough to power this machine?
    3b. If not, how much power is needed?
    3c. Should I invest some more money to get a "Titanium" certificated one, or is a "Platinum" enough? (Consider I plan to power off my pc only to install updates and for maintenance)
    3d. Is an RGB PSU a nice addition to the customization? (it doesn't look very bright to me)
    4. Should I get a top-tier cpu? (threadripper or i9)
    4b. Will I experience any increase in performances running one of those cpus? (Consider gaming, 3d modeling, 3d rendering)
    5. Do you think Corsair ML120 PRO RGB looks bad compared to LL120 RGB? I do, and thus can't decide.
    6. Do you think 4TB are enough as an archive storage?
    7. Do you think that Gunnars (gaming glasses) may be useful?

    Detailed questions about components/peripherals:
    A. Corsair 570X Crystal vs anidees AI Crystal - which one is better, and why?
    B. Ryzen 7 2700x vs Intel Core i7 8086k - which one is better, and why?
    C. Ryzen Threadripper 1950x vs Intel Core i9 7980XE - which one fits my build the most, and why?
    D. Samsung 970 EVO M.2 vs. Samsung 970 PRO M.2 - which one is better, and why?
    E. Corsair ML120 PRO RGB vs Corsair LL120 RGB - which one is better, and why?
    F. Seagate Barracuda Pro 7200rpm 10TB vs. Samsung 860 EVO SSD 4TB - which one should I pick, and why?
    G. Corsair K95 Platinum vs any other valuable gaming keyboard - which one is better, and why? (make suggestions, please)
    H. Razer Naga Trinity vs any other valubale gaming mouse - which one is better, and why? (make suggestions, please)
    I. Asus PG27UQ vs Acer Predator X27 - which one is better, and why?

    Looking for:
    I. A pair of "over-ear" headphones.. They must be "over-ear" because my ear suffer a lot from wearing "on-ear" ones. I'd like them to be bluetooth or wireless.
    I found this one, are these good?
    II. A gamepad (actually 2) to play some offline games.. Scufs are way overexpensive, and considering I won't be using them much I don't think I'll be getting one. XBox One original pads are really expensive, but I do like the design and ergonomics.
    I found these ones, but they are even more expensiven (but with a cool design):
    Could you please suggest me a good gamepad (cabled or not)? RGB would be great, but I don't really care much about the pad..
    III. An external sound system. I was looking over "soundbars" which seems pretty solid. I found Razer's soundbar:
    Looks good to me because it has an external subwoofer aswell. If you were me, which one would you choose? Please provide me suggestions about good external audio systems (not necessarily soundbars).


    Thanks everyone, your opinion means a lot to me.
  2. defaultluser

    defaultluser I B Dum

    Jan 14, 2006
    You know your thread is just so busy you're going to be lucky if you get any builds form people.

    I get the impression from all your mass quantity of questions that you have no idea what you're doing here, right? How about we start with that assumption?

    I usually don't recommend custom water cooling for people who don't like turning a wrench because, if you have a leak your computer is out of commission until you can take it to the shop that did the work for you.

    If you buy a closed-loop cooler, then you have someone to call if you spring a leak, and they will usually cover any damage caused by the leak.

    If all your doing is gaming, and Core i7 8700k is more than enough to power high-end games for the next five years. More than 6 fast cores will not be faster for many more years, as mot games can't handle the extra threads.

    a 1000w PSU plus SLI 1080 Ti should last you just as long as that 8700k, with the way fab processes have been hitting a wall. So I can't see you spending more than $2500 before peripherals/coolers here.

    If you want to waste money, you can always build a separate computer with a massively-multi-core CPU and check out the distributed computing subform here.
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2018
    auntjemima likes this.
  3. drutman

    drutman n00bie

    Jan 4, 2016
    Go Intel X 299 platform with a decent MB around 250 USD, 32 Gig DDR4 ram, SSD and 7200 RPM HD for archiving.
    Do not do SI or crossfire.

    Watch Kyle's blind test comparing free sync and g sync systems, it will surprise you, most people who participated in test picked the AMD platform over the faster NVIDIA cards.

    With the current pricing SNAFU I would go X BOX 1 if you game only. Read Volta review to see what max FPS looks like with your games.

    I personally think it is crazy to spend 3000 USD to play a $60 game at 60 FPS at 4K.
  4. defaultluser

    defaultluser I B Dum

    Jan 14, 2006
    Yeah, I'd spend money on a GSYNC monitor before spending money on SLI.

    If you don't think performance is high enough with a single 1080 Ti, you can just add the second one if the game you're playing supports it. But I'd bet that almost any game you play will be smooth enough with a single 1080 Ti at 1440p.

    You will only need to WORRY about "little gaps" in the gaming world if your current video card is not giving you enough performance in the games you're re playing.

    If you have that type of personality to drop a thousand dollars on "just a little more, because there's a little gap" you're going to find PC ownership to be a extremely expensive hobby. There's always something slightly better 6 months down the road.
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2018
    Archaea likes this.
  5. defaultluser

    defaultluser I B Dum

    Jan 14, 2006
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2018
  6. vick1000

    vick1000 [H]ard|Gawd

    Sep 15, 2007
    With the performance of modern air coolers, there is no reason to go custom unless you want the asthetics, or don't have the space. Custom loops are just not practical, they are a hobbiest focus, a way to personalize a build. No need for Multi-GPU anymore, unless you plan on 4k VR, it's really a dying tech.

    Focus on a killer reliable 300 series mainboard and fat M.2 PCIe drive or two, 8700K/1080ti is all you need after that. Put it all in a nice big versatile case with a quality PSU, spend the rest on a killer display and peripherals.
    craigdt likes this.
  7. craigdt

    craigdt Gawd

    Oct 27, 2016
    This reminds me of the kind of thread I would post at the Honda forums when I was 15 and wanted to build the ultimate street racer Civic.

    But in the interest of being polite, vick1000 had the right idea in the post above.

    Basically what I did (see build below) and it is a monster.

    The difference between what you are suggesting and a basic 8700k/1080ti build will be very slim for gaming.

    Not as fun for bragging rights...

    But a few years from now, your $10,000 machine will be outdated just like the rest.
  8. mnewxcv

    mnewxcv [H]ardness Supreme

    Mar 4, 2007
    10k is better spent on monitors and peripherals and a nice vr setup.
    defaultluser and craigdt like this.
  9. AORUS

    AORUS Limp Gawd

    Oct 31, 2017
    Why do you need a 1000W PSU! when a 750 or 850w can run your machine for just one GPU, 1180/1080 ti , if you want to wait at the end of this year for the 1180 go for it, just for 20% vs the price not worth it IMO.
  10. TheFlayedMan

    TheFlayedMan n00bie

    May 29, 2015
    If I had 10k to blow on a pc I would buy a pre-built one from a boutique vendor. If I was building one I'd only spend 3 - 4k and go on an extra holiday to the Camen Islands lol
    defaultluser likes this.
  11. AORUS

    AORUS Limp Gawd

    Oct 31, 2017
    $10K for a computer what a waste IMO a 3 weeks cruises and a 4k computer.
  12. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

    Oct 19, 2004
    $10K is hard to spend on a top end gaming PC these days without $7 or $8K of that being absolutely frivolous spending.

    If buying right now and money isn't an object.

    Using round numbers --

    $400 - Buy an I7-8086k or 8700k -- if you want assured overclock you can buy it from where they delid and test it for you and you pay extra for the binned speed you want.
    $100 - CPU Watercooler of your choice - doesn't matter aside from aesthetics - a few degrees temp difference won't matter for your max overclock or daily performance in the slightest manner.
    $250 - Motherboard of your choice - doesn't matter that much aside from aesthetics - a FPS or 2 difference is all you'll typically see between vendors at the same clock speeds. (within the margin of testing error)
    $150 - 16GB of DDR4 3200 RAM with low CAS latency (at minimum XMP rated RAM for ease of selection) - any vendor's RAM is usually okay - again pick on aesthetic because it just doesn't matter that much in the real world.
    $100 - Buy a 960 Evo NVME 256GB drive as your OS drive - you don't need anything faster or bigger, there's no real world benefit. All you are putting on it is your Windows 10 Operating System
    $260 - I say buy a 8TB platter 7,200 platter drive and use Intel Optane for your gaming/storage drive. It's been tested to be as fast as SSD in real world use and you'll have lots of storage space.
    $800 - Buy a single 1080TI - probably an Asus Strix, or a EVGA FTW, or a hybrid based water cooled unit like the SeaHawk
    $100 - Buy a 850 watt Gold, Platinum, or Titanium PSU. You don't need more power than that - and you ideally want your computer load to be about 50% of your power supply capability for the greatest efficiency. The difference between efficiency of Gold, Platinum, and Titanium is just pennies per month - it's not that big a deal.
    $200 - Case of your choice.
    $100 - Windows 10 Operating System

    $2460 --- Doesn't get much better in real world gaming use - no matter how much you spend.
    Assemble the machine on a Saturday - and your gaming right up there at the top of the world.

    Then buy a top of the line G-Sync monitor and you've made it. I currently recommend the Alienware 34" Ultrawide at 3440x1440 and 120Hz with Gsysnc. It's considered the best gaming monitor there is right now and it's about $1k on sale fairly regularly.

    If you can't assemble a PC, you can find help. For instance, I charge a flat fee of $200 and build at least a half dozen a year for people.
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018 at 3:43 PM
    horrorshow and TheFlayedMan like this.
  13. AORUS

    AORUS Limp Gawd

    Oct 31, 2017
    IMO don't waste the money on a G-Sync monitor it's mostly marketing crap from Nvidia I had one. You could buy a 42/55 inch HDR TV that cost less than G-Sync also you can buy 32GB of Ram, it not worth spending allots of cash because after a year your gaming rig that cost 10K will be replaced with something new and faster.
  14. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

    Oct 19, 2004
    I strongly disagree...
    In my opinion, FreeSync and G-Sync both, (I've used both (9 ish months with Freesync on a pair of Fury X, and then 9 ish months with G-Sync and a 1080Ti)) are the single biggest improvement in the overall PC gaming experience in over a decade.

    I respect that everyone has their individual opinions/perceptions on the matter, but I definitely know what my game play experience has been in the last 18 months. No more fiddling with settings to try to make sure my FPS don't drop to less than the minimum refresh rate of the monitor to avoid screen tearing and jittery annoying mouse movement, and the feeling of FPS stutter. Both techs deliver buttery smooth FPS within their technology's range - such that I can't even begin to tell you what frame rate I'm getting by feel. So I can just set every single game to max settings and wholly enjoy the experience. No more fiddling or looking for optimization guides, or testing settings for a half hour to try to find the optimal experience to make sure I keep 60Hz/60FPS minimums. That's all out the window. I'm playing Hunt Showdown right now at 3440x1440 and max settings at mid 50FPS average and it feels absolutely perfectly smooth with G-Sync.

    I leave room for there to be differences in the way people see/experience things too. Much like Human hearing capability range varies, perhaps visual perception does as well. I know from comparing a 144hz freesync monitor (Acer 35" ultrawide) to a 75hz freesync monitor (HP Omen 32") that I couldn't tell the difference with Freesync engaged between those two refresh rates, while some people say they can —- but then I could tell the moment Freesync wasn't working in a game without question.

    And both G-Sync and Freesync feel smoother overall than not having it, even if you otherwise can maintain those display hz minimums. It's visible too in tech demos. You can see the individual click of each frame movement at 60Hz without Freesync on the AMD windmill Freesync demo. Turn on Freesync and you cannot. It's subtle at first, but once you get used to it, gaming feels clunky/jittery without.
    I had used the pair of Fury X with Freesync for about 9 months, loved the technology, upgraded to a 1080TI and my gaming experience felt terrible. My 1080TI frame rate minimums were well above my monitors display rate of 60Hz, but the smoothness was gone, so much so that I didn't even want to play games anymore. I figured I either needed to go back to an AMD GPU to get Freesync again, or I needed to buy a G-Sync display. I bought the Alienware 34" with G-Sync and restored that smoothness I was missing.

    My experiences and opinions anyway.

    Freesync monitors used - HP Omen 32", and Acer XZ350CU - 35"
    G-Sync monitor used - Dell Alienware AW3418DW - 34"

    As a very specific example: I remember playing Wolfenstein New Order, that I picked up on sale a couple years after it came out, and trying to play it with a GTX 670 and/or AMD 285 and getting such bad screen tearing it was almost unenjoyable. I wasn't alone.

    None of that - ever again - with the working variable refresh rate techs...
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2018 at 12:08 AM
    GoldenTiger likes this.
  15. AORUS

    AORUS Limp Gawd

    Oct 31, 2017
    Here we go again tearing screen and jittery lost of FPS oh my God the world is coming to the end help us Nvidia with your G-Sync, it's like an old record it never stops, I wonder if the console gamers who play on 55/65 inch TV's get this experience problem because I don't see this on my 42 inch, And it is all just marketing Nvidia 'BS' because freesync is free. and Acer is worst then any other monitor brands.
  16. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

    Oct 19, 2004
    If you can't tell the difference between a g-sync monitor and a 42" HDTV for input lag and smoothness, then I think we are talking about that unique individual's perception thing again. I fault you none.
    Continue to enjoy your gaming experience by all means --- but you should not dismiss something so broadly as pure marketing for everyone because you individually don't perceive a difference. There are many who do. I fell so strongly about it you could lower any of those gaming specs I recommended a full tier and I'd be fine with it, so long as I had G-sync or Freesync - because all the minutia details of making everything precisely optimal to get the best performance out of your equipment is bested by the ease and improvement in feel of G-sync or Freesync. You no longer need to have to keep the best equipment to keep that minimum FPS with no deviation at max settings. You just need to be in the correct ballpark of matching computer hardware to desired display resolution, set everything to max, and let the FPS fall where it may - and the gaming experience is great.

    Also with these variable refersh rate techs, you no longer have the mouse input lag of V-sync which is very perceivable in a game like Tomb Raider -- as a test move the behind the character camera around in game as fast as you can with the mouse with V-Sync on and then again with V-sync off. You should easily feel the difference in input lag, and you'll realize you don't want V-Sync on. But then you get tearing with V-Sync off.
    With FreeSync or G-Sync you don't need V-sync to avoid tearing. So besides visually smoother, no tearing - you also get less input lag. It all comes together very nicely.

    I've been a regular gamer since the late 80's, and I do still contend that FreeSync and G-Sync are the biggest leaps in PC gaming in the last decade. In fact I'd say it's the most important decision in the specs/design above. We aren't going to see eye to eye on this I suppose. That's fine. Just putting my opinion out there in the mix.
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018 at 6:09 PM
    GoldenTiger likes this.
  17. AORUS

    AORUS Limp Gawd

    Oct 31, 2017
    Yes I was sucked in the world of 'G' with all the reviews & YouTube and forum's on G-Sync, that why I spent my money on a Acer G-Sync costing more money then a 42 inch with HDR more fool me, but then I open my eyes, in another words seen the market 'BS' around the G-Sync mode, you can talk about it in your opinion like anyone, put it another way I play same game fallout 4 with over 192 mods I don't see any frame drop the only time I did see game slow was when I enter one of my settlements but other times no, not even in combat with a 43 inch UHD it's just Nvidia marketing again just like Samsung on their QLED using LCD panels like I said if people was to do the research into all the 'BS' marketing these companies would have a hard time selling the products on the market but because people don't do there research companies get away with it every day.

    Just like fake news in the media.

    One point to note another marketing freak world is this '4K UHD' but it's only 3840x2160 resolution on all the OLED/QLED also monitors, 4k UHD players, but movies are shot in true 4K but we get to watch it in UHD level because we lose 256 pixels to make it true 4K on screen but still the freak marketing world name it 4K UHD yes it's near 4K not true 4K in terms 4 times the image of a Blu-ray. So wasting all that money on an OLED with the same 3840x2160 resolution how do they get away with it because they can and no one is stopping them not even the law it all in it's name '4K UHD'

    Confused! Ok true 4k is 4096x 2160 but UHD is lower 3840x2160 resolution, to sell 4K is to name it 4K UHD because it they name it UHD it's true name customers would get confused when buying, so remember you lose 256 pixel's in it's named 4K UHD welcome to the freak marketing world.
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2018 at 1:08 PM