Help me build a balling Ivy Bridge watercooled system in a TJ11 :-)

The best part of that case is the GPU's have zero flex on the pci-e slots due to block weight. Hope you get your build done with no big problems.

I'm good at building PCs, I have good attention to detail once I get going.

I'm sad as I can't find the Swiftech Apogee HD Gold Limited Edition anywhere!! I'm only 8 months late!! Jeez. I have one lead, but it will most likely prove a dead end.

The Swiftech Maelstrom Res is coming soon, I may have to consider it, it can be used alone, with one or two pumps.
 
Last edited:
My revised my loop plan (I stopped hosting the old pic):

TJ11+Water+Loop+Plan+V2.jpg


I like this loop plan better. I have two spare 5.25" bays left, plus the rad placement and rad heat venting is better thought out. This is using the same amount of rads too, just split up differently. I have one 120/SR-1 just after the CPU, one 120/SR-1 just after the GPUs, then the Maelstrom Res/MCP35X2 Pump, then into the basement for the 480/SR-1 and 240/SR-1, feeding back to the CPU.

Hopefully Swiftech thought about pump vibrations and noise when they designed the new Maelstrom Res with the MCP35X2 installed - which is coming out this week. The Res and Pump can be separated if need be, however if it does not bother me I might as well leave it together. Of particular note is the built in temp display feature!! Note the Maelstrom takes up only two bays, but the MCP35X2 Heatsink protrudes into a third bay, which is perfect for sharing space with a small fan controller (they never really full up the whole bay). This way I don't waste a bay.

I have something special planned for the last two bays, it has something to do with water and the case art I have planned, but it will not be part of the loop per say.

Haha, I did this drawing in MS W8 Paint :) I really miss Adobe Illustrator.
 
Last edited:
Err yeah think I caught myself after I posted. I thought the arrow for the top fan was there to indicate intaking air instead of exhausting. I'm still not sure you need that much radiator surface area. If you really need to help things cool off while doing some heavy load, just turn up the fans on the controller.
 
If it was me, I'd put the res below the fan controller/dvd drive. I had a pretty terrible experience with a Primochill dual bay res(aka a giant steaming pile of crap) that left my dvd drive looking like it had spent some quality time in the swimming pool. That's just me though. Fool me once, shame one me, etc...

The rads are still completely overkill, but hey, if that's what you want, go for it. Go [H]ard or go home, amirite?
 
Err yeah think I caught myself after I posted. I thought the arrow for the top fan was there to indicate intaking air instead of exhausting. I'm still not sure you need that much radiator surface area. If you really need to help things cool off while doing some heavy load, just turn up the fans on the controller.

Yes, the arrow is for ID purposes only. Airflow is normal. The thinking on 8x120 total rad surface area is that I want to spin those GT fans as sloooowww as possible, and that the system is a long term one ready for anything. Also, note I placed a rad just after each hot part, it may help a bit, keep the pump cooler before it runs down to the rad basement. And hey, to be [H] too.
 
If it was me, I'd put the res below the fan controller/dvd drive. I had a pretty terrible experience with a Primochill dual bay res(aka a giant steaming pile of crap) that left my dvd drive looking like it had spent some quality time in the swimming pool. That's just me though. Fool me once, shame one me, etc...

The rads are still completely overkill, but hey, if that's what you want, go for it. Go [H]ard or go home, amirite?

Interesting, that's a good point. Perhaps the Res will be last. The thinking was to keep the loop connection lengths down and to keep that rad close to the exhaust vents just above it. Well, that can be adjusted if need be, not an issue with the overall plan. URRITE. LOL
 
Should I go with the Apogee HD or the Apogee Drive 2? Already getting the MCP35X2. If I do the Apogee Drive 2, I could place the Micro Res 2 out of sight just above the CPU in the upper corner.

Edit: I fixed the arrows in the pic to be a bit less confusing.
 
Last edited:
Should I go with the Apogee HD or the Apogee Drive 2? Already getting the MCP35X2. If I do the Apogee Drive 2, I could place the Micro Res 2 out of sight just above the CPU in the upper corner.

You don't need three MCP35X's. Just get a normal block. You're already in the overkill department on everything. No need to go even MORE overkill.

I'd also like to continue to recommend the Raystorm over the HD. You have alot of Rad to push through, the HD is just going to add more restriction.

Ditch the rad and fans behind the Hotswap bay, move the Res to the top (makes bleeding the system easier, and maybe go down to 2x240s in the bottom rather then the 240 and the 480. Still plenty of rad, plenty of pressure and flow, and easier to work with. Win-win-win.
 
I don't think you can use the Apogee Drive 2 with where you res is in those layouts. You'd need some way to feed that pump when you did your fill up - a T-line or a res about the Apogee Drive 2. I think if you went with the Apogee Drive 2, you would be severely limiting the possible layouts of your system.
 
Ok, Apogee HD it is. I thought about the Raystorm. the regular version is not metal, and the Copper version is well Copper. If I get Nickle plated Copper Pipes, that would clash. So I will go with the Apogee HD with its better mounting system and all black looks.

For the loop plan I'm conflicted. On one hand, it's good to have the Res up high for bleeding. On the other hand, if it leaks, it leaks onto the bay hardware. Seems that I'd rather have it below the bay electronics for safety. I'll think on it. If I get rid of any rads, it will be the two small rads up top. The basement is getting filled up baby. I could do two 360 rads if I put the PSU in the middle, make a custom PSU bracket. That way, the PSU does not partly block the one end of a long rad. Symmetrical and all that.
 
Last edited:
You could always go with a non-bay res. You have plenty of room in that case to mount something high and not have it hanging over all of your data.
 
Okay I looked up some measurements for you I was talking about a few days ago.

The SR1s are pretty wide at 55.7mm overall width, basically the same dimensions as the GTX. So once you go push/pull you are looking at roughly 105-106mm. Silverstone specs the TJ11 at 224mm wide, but I'm sure that's outside measurements so you have even less than that of space inside. Plus you have to offset the radiators a little bit so you can get the side panels on and off. Then you need to factor in barb length and running the tubing to them...I don't think it'll fit with the way you want it right now.

You may need to look into slimmer rads or not doing a complete push/pull on radiators in the bottom.
 
Okay I looked up some measurements for you I was talking about a few days ago.

The SR1s are pretty wide at 55.7mm overall width, basically the same dimensions as the GTX. So once you go push/pull you are looking at roughly 105-106mm. Silverstone specs the TJ11 at 224mm wide, but I'm sure that's outside measurements so you have even less than that of space inside. Plus you have to offset the radiators a little bit so you can get the side panels on and off. Then you need to factor in barb length and running the tubing to them...I don't think it'll fit with the way you want it right now.

You may need to look into slimmer rads or not doing a complete push/pull on radiators in the bottom.

What about just sandwiching one fan in the middle? Like connect them? Fan/rad/fan/rad/fan in one big sandwhich? Or is that bad for the heat discharge process?
 
Ordered my first piece of watercooling gear:

http://www.swiftech.com/maelstrombayres.aspx

The Swiftech Maelstrom Res with the MCP35X2 factory installed. It will look nice in my system next to my Swiftech Apogee HD. Sure the Raystorm Copper might be a bit better, but I still like the Apogee HD for other reasons. All out performance isn't everything, and I think I have enough pump power with the MCP35X2 anyway.

I decided to go with this one as I like the looks and features. I can separate the pump if it bothers me in the bay with vibrations/noise, and as far as placement I think what I had in the drawing is ok.

So bay equipment layout will be the 3 bay Lian Li HD Cage, followed by the 2 bay Maelstrom Res/MCP35X2 Pump, followed by a single bay fan controller, followed by a single bay Blu-Ray Burner, with 2 bays left. The Maelstrom is still fairly up high, I think bleeding will be easy enough. The data drives are "Safe" and the rest of the bay equipment is expendable.

I guess I've seen some reason here, MANY have said I don't need more than 6x120 or 6x140 total SR-1 rad real estate. I suppose that adding the two small rads up top only adds noise, cost, and restriction - perhaps there is little to benefit to that so I will do a six fan rad basement only configuration. I can go with 120mm fans or 140mm fans (single fan on rad, not push/pull, with the appropriate sized rads - not doing fan size adapters anymore). I can do dual triple fan rads with the PSU in the center, held in the case with a custom fashioned bracket, or do a four fan rad on one side with a two fan rad plus PSU on the other side.

I really want to use Koolance quick disconnects all over, but I also want to use the Swiftech LOK Seal fittings with the hexagon wrench friendly shape. So I've yet to figure the fittings out.

I really like my non PWM GT AP-15 fans, but I am starting to see PWM fans are kinda nifty, come in better colors, are there any good ones? Should I go PWM? I think Swiftech is making a 120mm GT AP-15 "Like" fan that is PWM, but reports on forums indicate they are good for the money, but the GT-15s are still better made. Once again, it seems 120mm fans are king, why would I want to limit myself to 140mm fans just to get an edge on rad size, or use clumsy adapters. I dunno. Just my thought on it.

Also, if someone could comment on that fan/rad/fan/rad/fan sandwich idea, like one rad feeding into another and out the other end, that would be great.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for measuring the TJ11 fan space for me Garden Tool, I was going to look it up, but I didn't have the time yet.

As a side note this is one congested thread, the learning process is ugly. I may have to move this to a build log with my findings so that it is an easier read.
 
Last edited:
I didn't read all 7 pages leading up to this, so I may be repeating someone... even myself perhaps :p

Koolance makes a really cool 2 bay reservoir that can accommodate either one or two Lang D5 pumps. You can use one pump and combine the two resv's, or, you can use two pumps and have two separate resvs. I use it with 2, 1 loop for my CPU and 1 loop for my GPU

The Swiftech Apogee HD is hands down the most effective block I've ever used, and I've used many many many. It has 4 ports, you use two (in/out) for a traditional serial cooling loop, or, use all four in conjunction with their rad/res/pump combo that has 4 inlets/outlets so you can do parallel cooling. I've never been a big fan of swifty rads, but they work and Feser isn't making theirs anymore.

Do a google for a lightning full cover water block. I did last year for my 580 and found a group in Europe that was having them made especially for their group. About $200 bucks if I recall correctly, I didn't buy one (I strapped an LN2 pot on it instead :p)

Danger Den tubing is awesome. Comes in sets with tubing, tube cutter, and matching color plastic clamps. Tubing bends and holds it's integrity better than any I've used before.

I use Koolance quick disconnects, I like the VL4N no spill ones. They work great most of the time, but I've had two fail on me over the past year or so. I still use them though because they are so handy, and, I have two of my big rads external and it helps to be able to disconnect them for moving etc.

Just saw Koolance has a new line of rads that look pretty decent. I have a dual XSPC that doesn't work for ____, so it's sitting in a drawer. Koolance rads are pretty good

Sounds like a nice rig you're putting together, just remember to test your loops for leaks with NO POWER to the board - use a spare PSU to run the pumps. No need for a 24 hour leak test like some say. If it's gonna leak, it'll leak within minutes not hours. Be careful bleeding your loops as I have friends who have lost motherboards bleeding their loops. I usually bleed mine through the reservoir, or, add an extra length of tubing and a Koolance Y connector to run a "breathing tube" to the upper back of the case... run the pump and the air goes to the highest point... use a fill port (like DD) to open/close it.

Good luck and post pics!
 
I really want to use Koolance quick disconnects all over, but I also want to use the Swiftech LOK Seal fittings with the hexagon wrench friendly shape. So I've yet to figure the fittings out.

I really like my non PWM GT AP-15 fans, but I am starting to see PWM fans are kinda nifty, come in better colors, are there any good ones? Should I go PWM? I think Swiftech is making a 120mm GT AP-15 "Like" fan that is PWM, but reports on forums indicate they are good for the money, but the GT-15s are still better made. Once again, it seems 120mm fans are king, why would I want to limit myself to 140mm fans just to get an edge on rad size, or use clumsy adapters. I dunno. Just my thought on it.

Also, if someone could comment on that fan/rad/fan/rad/fan sandwich idea, like one rad feeding into another and out the other end, that would be great.

I don't know anything about the Swiftech fittings - I've always used Bitspower fr compression fttings. That said, I never needed a wrench for them. I would limit the number of quick connects though, as they add a lot of restriction. I'm not sayin don't use them, but you don't need a dozen of them.

I don't currently have any pwm fans, so I can't say if they are worth it or not. I'm still running xigmateks from a previous build. I would definitly go with 120mm gear, since 120mm just seems more common than 140. You may get more mileage out of your gear for future builds.

I would not do the fan/rad/fan/rad/fan sandwich. I think pretty much any gains you would get from the extra row of fans would be negated by you passing warmed air through the second rad.
 
One other thing - teflon tape. A little teflon tape on the threads of your fittings is cheap leak insurance.
 
I didn't read all 7 pages leading up to this, so I may be repeating someone... even myself perhaps :p

Koolance makes a really cool 2 bay reservoir that can accommodate either one or two Lang D5 pumps. You can use one pump and combine the two resv's, or, you can use two pumps and have two separate resvs. I use it with 2, 1 loop for my CPU and 1 loop for my GPU

The Swiftech Apogee HD is hands down the most effective block I've ever used, and I've used many many many. It has 4 ports, you use two (in/out) for a traditional serial cooling loop, or, use all four in conjunction with their rad/res/pump combo that has 4 inlets/outlets so you can do parallel cooling. I've never been a big fan of swifty rads, but they work and Feser isn't making theirs anymore.

Do a google for a lightning full cover water block. I did last year for my 580 and found a group in Europe that was having them made especially for their group. About $200 bucks if I recall correctly, I didn't buy one (I strapped an LN2 pot on it instead :p)

Danger Den tubing is awesome. Comes in sets with tubing, tube cutter, and matching color plastic clamps. Tubing bends and holds it's integrity better than any I've used before.

I use Koolance quick disconnects, I like the VL4N no spill ones. They work great most of the time, but I've had two fail on me over the past year or so. I still use them though because they are so handy, and, I have two of my big rads external and it helps to be able to disconnect them for moving etc.

Just saw Koolance has a new line of rads that look pretty decent. I have a dual XSPC that doesn't work for ____, so it's sitting in a drawer. Koolance rads are pretty good

Sounds like a nice rig you're putting together, just remember to test your loops for leaks with NO POWER to the board - use a spare PSU to run the pumps. No need for a 24 hour leak test like some say. If it's gonna leak, it'll leak within minutes not hours. Be careful bleeding your loops as I have friends who have lost motherboards bleeding their loops. I usually bleed mine through the reservoir, or, add an extra length of tubing and a Koolance Y connector to run a "breathing tube" to the upper back of the case... run the pump and the air goes to the highest point... use a fill port (like DD) to open/close it.

Good luck and post pics!

Lets tackle this!

I already bought the Swiftech Maelstrom Res with the MCP35X2 pump option installed. It's as versatile as the one you mentioned, if not more as it adds temp readout and up to 3 return lines for loop parallelization. It is not a dual loop res, but I have zero interest in dual loops. The results are most likely not worth it for the average build, from what I've read not at all, and you can't have pump redundancy without buying 4 pumps! Actually, I started off wanting a MCP655 pump, but Swiftech seems pretty sure that the MCP35X2's performance is king, the reviews are good, as are most forum accounts of ownership happiness. Some claim heat is an small issue, but I will be buying that official heatsink and possibly a fan. I do want to look into running my Apogee HD with my Maelstrom in parallelization, but I will not be doing Swiftech rads, everyone seems to like the Black Ice SR-1s, so I shall follow the heard.

I agree the Apogee HD looks great, wish I could have gotten in on that Gold Limited Edition version, even if it clashes, that's just too bad ass.

The MSI 680 Lightning does in fact have a full cover block from Aqua Computer, and I have my name down for two of em. From what I've read and understand, the prices will be reasonable. I made a thread on it here if anyone wants to know more:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1708061

My tubing is not final, but I think plasticizer free Tygon is the way to go. I'll stain the outside of the tube if I want color. I may may use a very very low damaging water dye, but I doubt it. Too much hassle. I was thinking lots of colored LEDs to color/light up the water.

Testing my rig is very much on my mind. The Linus Tech Tips TJ11 Watercooling guide on YouTube was very good on safety tips like that. I will do a through leak test no doubt. I may pass on the Koolance Quick Disconnects altogether. As as cool as they are, I don't think I will be changing up things that often and I really want the hexagon wrench friendly Swiftech LOK Seal fittings. Plus I've read that the more simple the connections the better chance you have of not leaking, so no weird moving elbows and whatnot.
 
Last edited:
One other thing - teflon tape. A little teflon tape on the threads of your fittings is cheap leak insurance.

Is this tape you leave on or just when you are testing for leaks? Like the tissue paper around the fittings leak indicator test?

And thanks for reminding me of the restriction on the Koolance QDCs. I don't need them. The Maelstrom Res and a nice T-Line drain will be ok.
 
Last edited:
It's tape you leave on. You put it on the threads of your fittings and then screw them on. It allows the threads a better fit against one another. You should be able to find it in any hardware store or even wal-mart. Usually near he plumbing supplies.
 
It's tape you leave on. You put it on the threads of your fittings and then screw them on. It allows the threads a better fit against one another. You should be able to find it in any hardware store or even wal-mart. Usually near he plumbing supplies.

So it is on the inside of the threads, so you can't see it, you screw it on, but does that not gunk up the thread path? I confuse.
 
Another reason not to mount the Maelstrom Res all the way up top, you still need to access that fill port once in awhile.
 
Last edited:
I think I found my fan controller, this is awesome. Control my fans from my smart phone!!!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34294

Is it powerful enough for 8 GT AP-15 fans, plus two Silverstone AP-181 fans?

Edit: more than enough! GTs consume very little power. The controller does 10 watts x 5 channels, the GT fans are like 1 watt each, the Sliverstone 180mm fans are 5.4 watts each.

However, if I feel like non digital controls, I would get this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34293

That one has 30 watts times five channels. Jeez.

Do I want a touch screen plus smart phone or physical sliders?? I think I have to go with the digital one, nothing like a remote control for your fans. Needs internet but hey, that is sooo kewl.
 
Last edited:
Perhaps I should buy some 120-140mm adapters after all. Can't find 140mm fans better than my 120mm GTs in my research.
 
Last edited:
Last major post for me in this thread. Thanks for all the learning everyone. I started with very little knowledge, and now I feel like I could actually build a water cooling rig!!

However, in the end, I decided not to pursue the TJ11 purchase anymore. The more I learned, the more I read, the more I found issues with this TJ11 case. I still like it, but I can see why it is not a good choice for me. And why people say it is a step back from the TJ07. I was reading build logs all weekend, and I see how the TJ07 works way better for the things I'm trying to do. But the TJ07 is a bit dated, so that case is not the answer either. For the TJ11, the very things I like about it, are the same things that hold it back. The rotated mobo is great for mobo stress, but its also bad for rad/res/pump placement. Those side vents look more ugly the more I look at them. The mid case mounted Silverstone AP-181 fans are great, but leave less room for pumps and stuff, while being less needed for a watercooled system. And the curves of the unibody are sexy, but when you start planing mods and art with it, the unibody gets in the way. So sadly, I give up on the TJ11.

I decided to change it up. Most likely I will get the Case Labs STH10 or the newer SMH10. That move alone fixes just about every issue I have currently. The artistic possibilities are mind numbing on these two cases. The configuration options are staggering. In fact the only issue is what configuration to get. These two cases laugh at dual 480/560 rads. So many options. Seems like a thread in the making. Here is the link for the new SMH10 (which I would not get without the 120mm roof extension):

http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-smh10/

and of course, here is the STH10:

http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-sth10/

and a video review of the STH10:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBDTBHVIJiA&list=UU_SN80_V2GymyCWM2oTYTeg&index=5&feature=plcp

Then there is all the new info on the Merlin case series, also by Case Labs, coming very soon:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1184977/merlin-discussion-thread/410

Cool eh?
 
Last edited:
Careful now - once you've had Caselabs quality in your hands, you may not be able to go back to a regular case.
 
Back
Top