Hanns-G HH-281HPB

digicat said:
The thing is friggin HUGE.

The stand is a little wobbly. If my cat wanted to, she could probably knock the monitor over. This will NEED a wall mount.

Here it is on my desk (fresh out of the box, I haven't even removed the protective film) compared to my puny 19".

IMG_2739.jpg
Click to expand...

haha, that monitor next to it now looks like a puny 15" :D


Would you feel us previous reviewers are correct with our observations? How's the backlighting on yours?


Hope you're enjoying it either way.
 
I have a HH-281HPB arriving from Costco tomorrow, 30th. It will replace one of my dual 20.1 inch Ultrasharps from 2005.

I've held off from going 24inch due to the cost of Dell's Ultrasharp, and and since I already had dual monitors, did I really need it. Though, now I'm going to start teaching myself programs like Blender and Maya, where the extra resolution will come in handy to fit more of the interface, and 28inch will let me sit back easier to see the small buttons. Damned if I need an IPS monitor just for some ugly interface, and I'll still have an Ultrasharp for Photoshop.

I ended up picking this monitor because of the 1920*1200, and the ease of mind buying from Costco. When looking around for a cheap 24inch, inspired after recieving extra cash over x-mas, I was willing to make the TN panel compromise over an IPS to get more resolution. But to my surprise, I'm disgusted at the 1920*1080 trend. Here I am with a $50 Best Buy gift card I need to get rid of and they don't even carry a 1920*1200, plus bad selection locally. Even a 27" Samsung at my local Costco was still 1080.

I've always heard it's a pretty nice upgrade to go from 1680*1050 to 1920*1200, really noticeable, but with 1920*1080 being more common, it's like you get half what you use to. Instead of an increase of 540,000 pixels, you gain only 309,600 (plus an oddly wide screen for PC use). It's like they just wanted to slap that Full 1080p sticker on there, but more importantly, the big new 16:9 ratio as some marketing gimmick as being better for movies, never mind films are usually wider than 16:9. It's like when PC monitors magically started showing up with HD stickers, since they did a res higher than 720p, but now they are actually messing things up with this whole 16/9 issue.

All this resolution and aspect ratio is pointless to the average consumer. All the people I know always react, "oh, how do you work with the text so small," or complain about their own screen or laptop being too tiny and force me to set it lower than the native resolution. And aspect ratio, friends and family with 16:9 LCD TVs are still distorting their dvds. They're oblivious to it, and if you call them out on it, and the movie ends up with bars, they complain it's not full screen.

Eh, sorry for the rant, the thing just hit me when trying to find a decent 1920*1200 monitor locally. To make up for it, I'll try to get a picture of the 28inch next to a 20.1 inch Dell, maybe even rotate the dell to portait too, plus a 32inch LCD TV is on the desk too.
 
Last edited:
SJetski71 said:
Would you feel us previous reviewers are correct with our observations? How's the backlighting on yours?
Click to expand...

It's a darn good monitor, that's for sure. I had to reduce the brightness from "super-nova" to "standard" though. Heh. Yeah, I see a little backlight bleed, but not enough for me to notice or care.

I'll need to sit back a bit when gaming though. I played a few minutes of UT04 and got a little dizzy.
 
TimothyB said:
To make up for it, I'll try to get a picture of the 28inch next to a 20.1 inch Dell, maybe even rotate the dell to portait too, plus a 32inch LCD TV is on the desk too.
Click to expand...
Those three displays side by side should make an interesting pic.

digicat said:
I'll need to sit back a bit when gaming though. I played a few minutes of UT04 and got a little dizzy.
Click to expand...
That's the good part, you can sit a little closer for more immersion, but it's also big enough to set further back and still keep some of the "big screen" experience.
 
damn it, This thread reminds me how much I loved having a big-ass monitor to look at. I wish I could get my HG-281DPB working right again...
 
Anyone know what kind of screws I need to get to attach the monitor to the wall mount? Seems that my mount from Monoprice didn't come with screws to hold the monitor to the mount. Can anyone suggest where to get those? Also, what type of screws to use?

Would something like this work?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95836a337/=55o1e0

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
OK, anyone know how you remove the stand on this puppy? I don't get it what would be the purpose of having a VESA mount if you can't remove the stand.... I removed the 6 screws from the bottom and that did nothing to loosen the stand.

Please help! Possibly a deal filler if you can't remove it.
 
Here are the photos I promised of the HH-281HPB

First, a simple unboxing set. This is the box it was shipped in from Costco,
so you probably wouldn't want it left by your door. I did have to sign for it
when UPS delivered it (I used the free ground option)

hannsg_001.jpg



Here's the monitor next to a 20.1 inch 16:10 Dell 2005FPW Ultrasharp (1680*1050).
Plus a few reference objects, a dollar bill and a Blu-ray case.
That crack on the Dell, upper right, appeared today. Must have been the stress from
rotating it to portrait today.

hannsg_002.jpg



You'll notice, above, while the 28" is running at a higher resolution, the icons appear larger
than they do on the smaller monitor that's using a lower resolution. Just shows how
oversize this thing is, but also what makes it nice so you can sit back comfortably.


Below, the last two monitors, but also a 12.1 inch laptop:

hannsg_003.jpg



Finally, a wider shot of my desk that has a 32inch LCD on the other side. When sitting at
my desk, the Hanns-G seems bigger than the 32inch, probably due to the 16:10 ratio and
thinner bezel. The 32inch 16:9 is still at least 1 inch taller vertically and of course wider.
There's an extra Dell 2005FPW on the floor rotated to portrait.

hannsg_004.jpg



One last shot showing the back of the monitor:

hannsg_005.jpg
 
Ok, so removing the stand is possible but you have to be extremely careful not damage the monitor. For some reason the screws you see from the bottom (underneath) of the stand are not the only ones that hold the stand attached to the stand (even though there are 6 of them....) There is another screw on the backside of the L shaped rotating bracket. It connects the plastic stand and the monitor itself.

The screw is really hard to notice and almost impossible to get to! You have to lean the monitor all the way back. And then use a really small screwdriver (the kind used to repair eyeglasses) to the the screw loose and jimmy the arm off carefully. If someone is really interested I can post pictures.

I can't imagine the terrible disconnect between the aesthetic designers and engineers that put this thing together. I mean come on!!! The solution was simple add two screws from the back and the problem is solved! Not an impossible to remove screw that your customers can't get to. Not to talk about the fact that the whole stand is about as poorly designed in the first place.

LOL, if you can't tell this severely p_ _ _ _d me off. I just hope it does not void my warranty since I didn't touch the warranty sticker over one of the screws.
 
crowat said:
Ok, so removing the stand is possible but you have to be extremely careful not damage the monitor. For some reason the screws you see from the bottom (underneath) of the stand are not the only ones that hold the stand attached to the stand (even though there are 6 of them....) There is another screw on the backside of the L shaped rotating bracket. It connects the plastic stand and the monitor itself.
Click to expand...

:eek: I just ordered a mounting bracket to put this up on the wall, so I guess I'll get to experience this fun for myself.
 
Well I was looking at getting a SAMSUNG TOC T260HD but after reading this thread I got to thinking, I dont need the HDTV Tuner and this monitor is larger and cheaper. Exactly what I was looking for.

I have never ordered anyhitng from Costco before, do you have to be a member in order to order something from there website? if I do order it from Costco and I have issues can I take it back to the B&M store?
 
Diablo2K said:
I have never ordered anyhitng from Costco before, do you have to be a member in order to order something from there website? if I do order it from Costco and I have issues can I take it back to the B&M store?
Click to expand...
I'm sure the other details are on their website, but i know for a fact you can return their online products to a brick and mortar store. Costco.com itself doesn't require membership but i don't know how it affects non-members from returning items to the B&M store...

Not trying to steer you away from the Samsung TOC T260HD, but if you're going to use it for gaming i'd research it a bit more because i recall something about input or panel lag (i may be wrong, don't take my word for it, foggy memory).

The big thing to look out for with the Hanns-g is possible heavy backlight bleed, if you get bad backlight bleed then wrap it up and exchange it (in-store ideally)
 
SJetski71 said:
The big thing to look out for with the Hanns-g is possible heavy backlight bleed, if you get bad backlight bleed then wrap it up and exchange it (in-store ideally)
Click to expand...

So, what would constitute "bad" backlight bleed?

Mine has some obvious "bleed", but you only see it if you black out the screen. When the desktop is up or a game is running, it's not noticable (to me).

Does this sort of thing get worse as time goes on, or does it stay the same?
 
Pretty sure backlight bleeding is caused by the over-tightening of screws on the inside of the casing which hold the panel. If you really want to check for backlight bleeding turn off the lights at night, and put a black screen on the LCD. You will notice it easily. It's not supposed to be that noticeable in colorful images.
 
SJetski71 said:
I'm sure the other details are on their website, but i know for a fact you can return their online products to a brick and mortar store. Costco.com itself doesn't require membership but i don't know how it affects non-members from returning items to the B&M store...

Not trying to steer you away from the Samsung TOC T260HD, but if you're going to use it for gaming i'd research it a bit more because i recall something about input or panel lag (i may be wrong, don't take my word for it, foggy memory).

The big thing to look out for with the Hanns-g is possible heavy backlight bleed, if you get bad backlight bleed then wrap it up and exchange it (in-store ideally)
Click to expand...

Yeah I did some searching and the monitor is $15 more if I am not a member plus the $20 sales tax.
A Membership is $50 so its cheaper not to get the membership as long as this is the only thing your buying.


Some have said that the stock Stand is wobbly, I was wondering if a stand like ERGOTRON 33-321-057 would be a good upgrade?
I would really like to keep my 22" Westy and mount it above the 28" is there any good stands for this type of setup? i found http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824183112 but its way to expensive and not rated for monitors over 24"
 
Hi all. Long time reader, first time posting.

I've had my eye on this monitor for a while and finally decided to get it. This is my first LCD monitor and I'm fairly happy with it with one exception...the Backlight Bleed.

Now, I understand that most TN's will have some backlight bleeding, but, how much is too much (for this monitor) ?

Mine has a good 2 inches of backlight bleed on all 4 sides.

http://i45.tinypic.com/r200gn.jpg

For those of you with this monitor, is mine excessive? Should I return it for another? (Costco).

Thx,
Poz
 
Diablo2K said:
Yeah I did some searching and the monitor is $15 more if I am not a member plus the $20 sales tax.
A Membership is $50 so its cheaper not to get the membership as long as this is the only thing your buying.


Some have said that the stock Stand is wobbly, I was wondering if a stand like ERGOTRON 33-321-057 would be a good upgrade?
I would really like to keep my 22" Westy and mount it above the 28" is there any good stands for this type of setup? i found http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824183112 but its way to expensive and not rated for monitors over 24"
Click to expand...

Stock stand is fine really. Just don't shove it or put it in a high traffic area, and it sits quite satisfactorily.
 
Poz said:
Hi all. Long time reader, first time posting.

I've had my eye on this monitor for a while and finally decided to get it. This is my first LCD monitor and I'm fairly happy with it with one exception...the Backlight Bleed.

Now, I understand that most TN's will have some backlight bleeding, but, how much is too much (for this monitor) ?

Mine has a good 2 inches of backlight bleed on all 4 sides.

http://i45.tinypic.com/r200gn.jpg

For those of you with this monitor, is mine excessive? Should I return it for another? (Costco).

Thx,
Poz
Click to expand...

About the same as in the two I have. I doubt another will get you any less bleed. We do have about 90 days to change our minds though. :)
 
crowat said:
About the same as in the two I have. I doubt another will get you any less bleed. We do have about 90 days to change our minds though. :)
Click to expand...

Heh, I usually turn the gamma up on games that are too dark, so this probably won't make much of a difference to me.
 
Yeah, I will play with it tonight. Thought I had to turn it way down initially. Someone hit the nail on the head when they said that it comes in with the brightness set to "nuclear".
 
Yes. I just got the display.. It's really quite good. No dead pixels. Sound is terrible (not that I'm gonna use it)

The brightness was set to 100 when it arrived.

Can anyone post their settings?

edit: The only real fault is there there's some bleeding on the bottom two inches or so. It's actually less than my four year old Dell LCD, however it's still noticeable with a black wallpaper.
 
Last edited:
dmonkey said:
Stock stand is fine really. Just don't shove it or put it in a high traffic area, and it sits quite satisfactorily.
Click to expand...

If you've got a nice, sturdy desk that doesn't move if you hit it, and no pets or kids, then the stand is probably fine. The thing is kinda top-heavy, so an adult cat pushing itself between the wall and the monitor will result in a catastrophe. ;)

antihexe said:
Can anyone post their settings?
Click to expand...

I left everything as is, but kicked the brightness down to 20. 100 was nuts. Seriously, my face stung after a few minutes of the brightness at 100.
 
I've had this monitor for about a month now and agree with most of the opinions here so far. No dead pixels, backlight bleed isn't too bad, viewing angles are good, and picture quality is very good after killing the brightness. But there is still one thing that I cannot seem to get working properly - 1:1 pixel mapping on 16:9 resolutions (720p or 1080p). I have my PS3 hooked up over HDMI and set to 1080p and the picture is stretched vertically to fill the screen. This happens on the XMB, in games, and when playing Blu-Rays. Changing the monitor options between fit and full has no effect on the picture at all. This also happens when my PC (DVI-HDMI) is set to a 16:9 resolution, though non-widescreen resolutions like 1280x1024 do maintain their aspect ratio when the monitor is set to "fit". Someone earlier in the thread mentioned that 1080p signals should not be stretched, but can anyone else confirm this firsthand? I'd love to to see a photo of the XMB displayed in 1080p letterboxed on this monitor. I want to be wrong about this, but I cannot find anyway to display my PS3 without some picture distortion.
 
wowcro said:
Btw the backlight bleed is about an inch on the top. I tried loosening the screws on the back of the monitor but it didn't do much.
Click to expand...
Wrong screws, the screws you need to loosen are buried deep within the monitor. Despite having little backlight bleed i tried to achieve backlight perfection the other day and opened up my monitor. Note that i have some experience with taking LCD's apart and putting them back together, but this monitor required open-heart surgery to get to the panel + backlight assembly (and that last set of fastening screws). Needless to say i gave up.

I did improve the ventilation around what appeared to be the internal powersupply, so my time was not totally wasted i don't think. It was covered by flimsy clear plastic so i cut bigger vent holes at the top and bottom to improve it's convection cooling.


Poz said:
Hi all. Long time reader, first time posting.

I've had my eye on this monitor for a while and finally decided to get it. This is my first LCD monitor and I'm fairly happy with it with one exception...the Backlight Bleed.

Now, I understand that most TN's will have some backlight bleeding, but, how much is too much (for this monitor) ?

Mine has a good 2 inches of backlight bleed on all 4 sides.

http://i45.tinypic.com/r200gn.jpg

For those of you with this monitor, is mine excessive? Should I return it for another? (Costco).
Click to expand...
2 inches on all sides? Beyond any doubt that's too much for me, it'll kill your black levels. Compared to what i have on my monitor, i'd exchange that sucker asap.

You can try lowering the brightness down to 25-30 if you want, but i doubt it'll reduce the bleed that much.
 
Last edited:
I recieved my monitor yesterday and tested it for about 1/2 hr and i'm impressed. I have the I-Inc iF-281DPB which i believe is the Hanns-g monitor with another name. To reply to the Poz, my monitor had no where near 2 inches of backlight bleed. At the top and sides it was basically 0 and about 1/2 inch at the bottom.
 
Thx everyone, I must have gotten the bad one :(

I've also found 2 dead and 1 red stuck pixel. Although they are very hard to see.

I think I'll order another, verify its ok, then return this one.
 
I will post photos of my backlight bleed for all of you to see. Maybe it is a luck of the draw. Does anyone know if Costco returns will just credit your card or just give you a Costco GC?
 
Question: when you monitor changes resolution, do you hear a click sound? Mine did it on startup and when i went from my desktop to started rainbow six vegas (was at my old resolution) and when the game started i heard a loud click.
 
Sargeantcharlesd said:
Question: when you monitor changes resolution, do you hear a click sound? Mine did it on startup and when i went from my desktop to started rainbow six vegas (was at my old resolution) and when the game started i heard a loud click.
Click to expand...

From Windows 7 screen resolution panel, I dropped it to 1680*1050, then reverted it back to 1920*1200, no sound at all. Using an HDMI port if it matters (from DVI)

Can you recreate it that way, by manually adjusting, or does it happen only during those two situations you mention? Could it have anything to do with the speakers? Or could it have anything to do with metal expanding and contracting from heat?

My Olevia 32inch LCD can make some pops and creaks, (not from the speakers and not really loud) when I turn on. First at the low-res logo as it starts up, then when it drops the picture to switch to the tv tuner resolution.
 
Mine did it before it died (not related to it dying, I don't think). It went away if I turned the volume on the monitor all the way down.
 
I restarted the pc today and it made the same noise. It happens on boot up just before windows 7 splash screen. I'm not using the monitor speakers but i'll try turning the volume down anyways as it might just be electrical impulse.
 
Sargeantcharlesd said:
I restarted the pc today and it made the same noise. It happens on boot up just before windows 7 splash screen. I'm not using the monitor speakers but i'll try turning the volume down anyways as it might just be electrical impulse.
Click to expand...

No noise from mine on Win 7 startup or when switching inputs. (switching between attached machines)
 
I was reading across many forums about the differences between the Hanns-G HH-281HPB and the I-Inc iH-282HPB. Apparently both monitors are pretty much the same. but, I can get the I-Inc iH-282HPB much cheaper than the Hanns-G model. After further investigation, it seems that many people that bought their I-Inc displays got dead pixels. So I was wondering if the I-Inc versions sold are rejected Hanns-G, or if both are equal in build quality and reliability?

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4938558&sku=H94-2804
 
Last edited:
I think I read somewhere that I inc's QC has lower standards. The monitors should be pretty much the same just though.

Anyone else?

I don't think I will be returning my 2x 28s. After some examination the backlight bleed area is about the same percentage wise (vs whole monitor area) as on all of my other computers.

Just something I am willing to live with.
 
Sargeantcharlesd said:
Question: when you monitor changes resolution, do you hear a click sound? Mine did it on startup and when i went from my desktop to started rainbow six vegas (was at my old resolution) and when the game started i heard a loud click.
Click to expand...


Yea, I hear a click every time I start up Win7 which is connected to HDMI cable out of 5870 HDMI but it is also connected to XP computer via 8800GT VGA and no such click happens so has something to do with HDMI connector only.
 
Ok, you guys talked me into it. I sit here typing on my new Hanns-G HH281 28" LCD. Ordered it from newegg when they had their recent promotion for $289.99 (no tax and free shipping). It took about 3 days to get here. Opened the box and noticed that it looked like I possibly got a monitor that someone returned. There was an empty ziploc bag which was supposed to house one of the monitor cables. I didn't need that particular cable and the monitor still had it factory wrapping so I figured Id at least try it out.

I went from a samsung 226BW 22" so the size difference was pretty good. I had been looking at the HP 27" monitor before deciding on the Hanns-G. I know someone that has the HP and it is a very nice monitor. The deciding factors for me getting the Hanns-G were that it was $290 and the HP was $360, but more than that was the fact that the Hanns is 1920 X 1200 and the HP is 1920 X 1080. I llike the extra north and south real estate.

I power the monitor up and install the driver from the cd just like the instructions say and as most people here did, I turned down the brightness. Next I adjust the resolution to 1920 X 1200. No dead pixels that I can see so, so far so good.

I do a lot of online gaming, namely first person shooters, so I start one such game to test the monitor out. This game happens to be Urban Terror. The screen goes to black while the game is starting up and I can see the backlight bleed. Ive got about 1 and 1/2" to 2" on all sides. Its right on the edge of what I find acceptable. I would like to see less bleed but I am going to give it a chance to see how much it bothers me in everyday computing. I load up a normal daytime map and everything looks good. Now its time to try a dark map. The dark map on the Hanns is really dark. No problem, I commence to adjusting the brightness and contrast. For some reason I have a hard time dialing it in. I finally find some settings that look pretty good on the dark map. Now I go back to try the daytime map. Whoa, too bright and washed out! I go back and forth between the dark and light maps trying to find some middle ground. Then I happen to sit up tall in my chair and notice something. The dark map looks quite a bit brighter when my eyes are level with the upper part of the screen. Now I am moving my head around checking out the viewing angles. On light screens the viewing angle doesnt make a whole lot of difference until you get kinda far out. But on dark screens, a little difference in viewing angles is making a big difference. (To take care of the viewing angle problem I am buying a mount that I can swivel down so I dont have to raise my chair all of the way up and strain my neck like a giraffe) Now I start all over adjusting while sitting up as straight as I can with my chair all of the way up. I finally find some settings that I can live with. It doesnt look as good as my Samsung but its 28", so I am willing to compromise. Now on to the other game I like to play. Battlefield2. Same thing. Try a bright map. Everything looks good. On to a dark map. No good. This is worse than the Urban Terror game. I can really see the backlight bleed and everything is too dark. Adjust it up. Now bright maps are too bright. Back and forth from bright to dark. Again, I find some settings that I can live with but not as good as I would like.

Now I wonder if adjusting the brightness and contrast from the video card driver will help. So I start over and through much trial and error and back and forth between adjusting the monitor settings and the video card settings I stumble upone some settings that look good in windows and in the games with both bright and dark maps.

I must say that if it wasnt for the dark maps this would have been a lot easier. With my samsung I just plugged it in and it looked good. This took a lot of trial and error for me to be pleased with it but in the end I am pleased.

Just for grins and giggles, the settings I found that work for me are as follows:
my video card is a Nvidia 8800 gts 640mb (for reference)

Monitor
Brightness - 22
Contrast - 54
X-Contrast - Off
Color Setting - Cool

Video Card (Nvidia Control Panel)
Brightness - 55%
Contrast - 62%
Gamma - 1.17

I also checked the option to have the Nvidia Control Panel control the color/brightness settings as opposed to each individual application controling them.

Well, that is my initial (long winded) impressions with my new monitor. All in all I like it and think it was worth the money. Just wish I had a little less backlight bleed but I dont notice it very often and it is not as bad with my new brightness/contrast settings.
 
I too got this LCD from NewEgg and appeared to be a returned Item. It still has the RMA tag on it. It has many bad pixels so its going back to hanns for a new one. Hanns was very easy to deal with. And they are cross shipping me a new one. I had the some problems you did. To bright on bright games and when I turned down the brightness, it was too dark in dark games. Very annoying. But after i messed with settings i landed on these

Brightness 20
Contrast 60

Red 100
Green 99
Blue 81

Stock settings on the vidcard.

Now if i can figure out how to make text sharper.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top