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Get em while you can! Silver KillCoils!

Blegh. 10$ with USPS first class mail... Eh, I'll get it in a week or two, if USPS gets off their asses... I hope.

And I'll post here with pics if anyone's interested when I get it.
 
Yea it sucks, but I ordered 3 more s-flexes so shipping wasn't so horrid. Though ordering just that...yea I could see it hurting.
 
11.4 mm outer diameter = .45 inches. I'm about to purchase pieces for a new WC setup and had planned to use 3/8 tubing. Just to confirm, this will not work in 3/8 tubing, correct? Does it come in a smaller size? I don't see anything other than the .45 inch version on Petra's.
 
JeremyCT said:
11.4 mm outer diameter = .45 inches. I'm about to purchase pieces for a new WC setup and had planned to use 3/8 tubing. Just to confirm, this will not work in 3/8 tubing, correct? Does it come in a smaller size? I don't see anything other than the .45 inch version on Petra's.
Click to expand...

It'll work with any size tubing. Just tighten up the coils a little. They bend rather easy.
 
Do what I did and buy 12" of .999 Pure Silver Bar for $7.50 and make your own...:D
 
so where exactly do these do? do these replace the coolant? or the PT NUKE?

i'm planning to use 9:1 Distilled water:pentosin G11 mixture

do i just put this into ANY TUBE? like between the cpu -> Reservoir?
 
With silver in your loop you don't need anything other than a corrosion inhibitor. These silver loops sure beat the hell out of silver blocks. :eek:
 
LOUISSSSS said:
so where exactly do these do? do these replace the coolant? or the PT NUKE?

i'm planning to use 9:1 Distilled water:pentosin G11 mixture

do i just put this into ANY TUBE? like between the cpu -> Reservoir?
Click to expand...

Ugh...I'm trying to find a way to explain this without bleeding chemical academia into it....

Here goes...Silver, when exposed to most hydrogen and/or carbon based liquids; releases ions that aid in breaking up single cell organisms' ability to form an outer cell wall. In short, silver kills bacteria. Used effectively in small doses, silver can aid in keeping your cooling loops clean of *some* algae and other nasties. Other properties of silver, including denaturation, aid in your goal of a cleanly system, and all are considered non-inhibitive.

Be wary though, silver is not a panacea. If your single cell organisms reach the point of creating a gelatanous ooze, you're past its cleaning effects. Also be careful mixing silver (especially in its micronized form) with other chemicals. Silver chloride and Silver iodide are fairly harmless but their reactions with others ARE NOT!

-EGA
Chemist, Computer Scientist, and Captain of Marines
 
undertheradar said:
How about Silver w/ regards to Copper and Aluminum... arent we asking for a reaction here?
Click to expand...

The galvanic potential of silver, relative to copper is only around 0.2v... Aluminum is a different story (But why would you have aluminum in the loop anyways?) and has a larger voltage differential.

But, these coils will never come in contact with case ground, nor any other electrical pathway between the other metal in question (if installed inside a tube that is) so accelerated galvanic corrosion is a nonissue.

Differing metals must be immersed in an electrolyte, and be electrically connected. Water blocks are all tied to case ground... A killcoil, inside a tube, protected from electrical connection, will not corrode.
 
so lets say all my parts are Copper, then all i need is Distilled + Silver Killcoil/PTNuke?

Will adding in Pentosin g11 to that mixture hurt in any way? (since i already bought it)
 
What if i were to use some Copper Sulfate from a Pet Store for Aquariums? can that fully replace Killcoils/PTNuke?
 
Arcygenical said:
The galvanic potential of silver, relative to copper is only around 0.2v... Aluminum is a different story (But why would you have aluminum in the loop anyways?) and has a larger voltage differential.
Click to expand...

Where are you getting those figures? Don't take offense but I assume from here?...http://www.leadertechinc.com/galvanicEMI.shtml Regardless, you're a bit off. It's more like .2V at ~0C. .4-.5V at ~20C, which is considered "room temperature". Those figures are from the NRL Fluids and Reactants book sitting on my desk next to me.

Oh, and the comment about aluminum? Were you kidding?

Arcygenical said:
Differing metals must be immersed in an electrolyte, and be electrically connected.
Click to expand...

...the electrolyte IS the electrical connection...

Arcygenical said:
Water blocks are all tied to case ground...
Click to expand...

How so? Am I missing something?...I must be....


Arcygenical said:
A killcoil, inside a tube, protected from electrical connection, will not corrode.
Click to expand...

100% spot on. Probably more so though because silver does not "corrode" in the traditional sense. While it can oxidize, silver does not "rust" and corrosion is literally reduced to breaking the molecular bonds down between atoms.

-EGA
Chemist, Computer Scientist, and Captain of Marines
 
Trying to think of where this would go in my loop and how to get it in there without re-working my entire loop. I have never had a problem with bacteria in my loop but I have in other computers that sat and were not used. I just have a feeling if I put this in my loop I would get it stuck in there and then break it trying to get it out, but maybe I am overthinking things.
 
Arcygenical said:
The galvanic potential of silver, relative to copper is only around 0.2v... Aluminum is a different story (But why would you have aluminum in the loop anyways?) and has a larger voltage differential.
Click to expand...

Mine has silver, aluminum, brass, copper, stainless steel, nickel, and some ferrite I believe. But as I said before some silver swirls might be better than using silver blocks due to greater surface area exposed to the coolant err Electrolyte ;)
 
Justintoxicated said:
Trying to think of where this would go in my loop and how to get it in there without re-working my entire loop. I have never had a problem with bacteria in my loop but I have in other computers that sat and were not used. I just have a feeling if I put this in my loop I would get it stuck in there and then break it trying to get it out, but maybe I am overthinking things.
Click to expand...

Just pull off a tube and shove it in. If you think it is too small for the tubing then unwind the coil and rewind so it is bigger. Pure silver is very soft.
 
what about putting it into the reservoir? would that be okay in an XSPC ResTop w/ MCP355 pump?

and how long do these things last? will i ever need to replace?
 
LOUISSSSS said:
what about putting it into the reservoir? would that be okay in an XSPC ResTop w/ MCP355 pump?

and how long do these things last? will i ever need to replace?
Click to expand...

Your computer will blow up before the silver disappears. Dumping in the reservoir works just as well.
 
really so one of these killcoils will work in any water cooling setup FOREVER?
another reason to get one over PT Nuke

what about using copper sulfate for the aquarium? i hear this works the same...
 
If you ever have to put your mouth on those tubes I would suggest you not use copper sulfate.
 
LOUISSSSS said:
really so one of these killcoils will work in any water cooling setup FOREVER?
another reason to get one over PT Nuke

what about using copper sulfate for the aquarium? i hear this works the same...
Click to expand...

I put my killcoil in my MCP355 ResTop
 
Snoozer said:
If you ever have to put your mouth on those tubes I would suggest you not use copper sulfate.
Click to expand...

and why would i ever put my mouth on the tubes?

i dont think i'll ever do that anyway since i'll be using distilled + g11
 
I have two of these in both my reserves....it is a nice added defense againt algai
 
Arcygenical said:
The galvanic potential of silver, relative to copper is only around 0.2v... Aluminum is a different story (But why would you have aluminum in the loop anyways?) and has a larger voltage differential.

But, these coils will never come in contact with case ground, nor any other electrical pathway between the other metal in question (if installed inside a tube that is) so accelerated galvanic corrosion is a nonissue.

Differing metals must be immersed in an electrolyte, and be electrically connected. Water blocks are all tied to case ground... A killcoil, inside a tube, protected from electrical connection, will not corrode.
Click to expand...

I have a 'massive passive' radiator (like an innovatek konvect-o-matic that is 5:1 scale) that is made out of 6 extruded aluminum starfin pipes that are 6' tall. So I have copper and aluminum.
 
Pre 1964 Roosevelt dimes are 90% silver 10% copper and weigh 2.5 grams (.9 x 2.5 = 2.25 grams of pure silver.) have a melt value of just under a buck and can be found (if you have not happened to noticed them in your change and kept some) at a coin shop for a little over a dollar for a common worn date.

So if you got a rez where they would sit on the bottom and happily leach out silver --- hmm 8.75 + shipping for 1.3g or roughly $1.50 for 2.25 grams and a stop by a flea market or coin shop.


http://www.coinflation.com/coins/1946-1964-Silver-Roosevelt-Dime-Value.html

Nothing against Petra's - I just like finding my own less expensive solutions to problems and I personally just get 2 tablespoons of whatever anti-freeze I have in the garage.

Due to the 10% copper that would also leach out I dont think I would use them in a mixed metals loop. All copper loop would not care.
 
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