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Gaming Build!

E

eggrock

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Dec 1, 2003
Messages
4,102
1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc 3D Gaming, coding and general use
2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included? $2000, not counting tax/shipping
3) Where do you live? US, MN
4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.

CPU/Mobo/HSF, GPU, RAM - 4-8Gb, HDD - 2, PSU, Monitor (120Hz, 3D capable), Case, DVD player/writer, Keyboard (mechanical), Mouse (maybe, see below), Speakers (5.1 or 7.1 optional)

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model. XFI Platinum
6) Will you be overclocking? No
7) What size monitor do you have and/or plan to have? 1920x1080
8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Within 6 months
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video? etc. Nothing additional required. SATA 6Gb/s and USB 3.0 preferred
10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit? Win 7 x64 Pro


$329 i7 2600k
$35 Hyper 212 HSF
$135 Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3
$350 GTX 570 Ti
$82 Mushkin Silverline 2x4Gb DDR3 1333 @ 1.5v
$70 WD Caviar Green 1.5Tb (Games)
$230 Intel X25-M SSDSA2MH120G2K5 120Gb (OS)
$150 XFX XPS-850W-BES
$500 Asus VG236H (23" 1920x1080) + nVidia's 3D bundle
$250 Silverstone FT02

$2131
$2096
 
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Are you ready to build now? Can you wait (at least) a couple of weeks for the good April NewEgg combo deals to arrive?

Why aren't you considering an SSD for your OS and primary programs? You can certainly fit a good one within your budget.

If you want an lefty mouse (IIRC, Logitech used to make a couple), the best way to do so now is to buy an ambidextrous mouse and switch the button placement via Windows.

Check out our own Mechanical Keyboard Guide for an idea of the keyboard of your dreams. Most of the popular models are listed in that thread.
 
I can build whenever, there's no need to build this immediately. I plan on doing a lot more research before making decisions, but my problem is that I tend to overspend and buy stuff I don't necessarily need. For example, 8Gb in my current rig and SLI capable--but I don't need the RAM and use a 2-in-1 GPU that's still not showing it's age (much).

If an SSD fits in, great. If not, no big loss (I don't know what I'm missing).

Swapping buttons via Windows does not work for many games. At best I have to right-click in menus. It gets annoying if I move from game to Windows to a different game and have to switch buttons all the time. I know of one lefthanded mouse made by Logitech.

Ha, I forgot that I started here with mechanical keyboards. I've read the guides, browsed models but wanted some testimonials. I suppose a 28 page thread on mechanical keyboards is a good place to start. :p
 
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As for the RAM:

What voltage are those 4 x 2GB sticks rated for? 1.65V? 1.5V?

If those sticks are 1.65V or higher, you might want to replace the RAM: The IMC in the Sandy Bridge CPUs is only dual-channel. Thus, four sticks will present a significantly greater load to the IMC than two sticks will. Plus, 1.65V is already at the very maximum that can be safely run on that CPU -- and that is with only two sticks of RAM installed, leaving two DIMM slots empty.
 
They're rated 1.65--from what (little) I've read so far, I thought that was desirable over a lower voltage for stability, but that may only apply to OCing the box.

Would switching CPUs be more desirable?

This is my greatest area of concern, getting solid RAM that works well with the CPU and mobo, but at the same time not overspending on memory (which I tend to do). One of my old boxes used a DFI board that was picky as hell with RAM and it was a PITA to get it working well.
 
eggrock said:
They're rated 1.65--from what (little) I've read so far, I thought that was desirable over a lower voltage for stability, but that may only apply to OCing the box.
Click to expand...

The IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) in modern CPUs have their voltage limitations. 1.65V on the memory voltage might actually fry the CPU if its IMC is weak.
 
That's extremely good information. I don't have a problem going with two larger sticks. The Mushkin Silverline seems to be solid. So does the Gigabyte mobo.

Anandtech gave that Asus monitor a solid recommendation in their review.
 
Roughing it out

$329 i7/2600k
$135 Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3
$350 GTX 570 Ti
$82 Mushkin Silverline 2x4Gb DDR3 1333 @ 1.5v
$70 ? + WD Caviar Green 1.5Tb
$150 XFX XPS-850W-BES
$500 Monitor - Asus VG236H (23" 1920x1080) - comes with nVidia's 3D bundle
$000 Case
$000 Keyboard
$000 Mouse
$000 Speakers
$000 DVD Writer

$1616 @ everyday Newegg pricing.

Going 120Hz/3D is going to be the big luxury in this build and kill off the speakers or keyboard. I can do without either so it's not a big sacrifice, unless I go back with an i5 or some hellish deals come up.
 
Ditch that 1.5TB WD Green: It is slower in performance than most of the current-generation HDDs. It is not as suitable as an OS drive as faster HDDs.
 
The Green is for gaming..

This looks like my starting point from a completed build perspective. I'm in no rush to buy so I can shave the price down assuming deals come around or downgrade to an i5, which is probably worth it from a 'bang for buck' perspective.. Some of these have MIR but MIR's suck. Shipping is obviously extra.

$329 i7 2600k
$35 Hyper 212 HSF
$135 Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3
$350 GTX 570 Ti
$82 Mushkin Silverline 2x4Gb DDR3 1333 @ 1.5v
$70 WD Caviar Green 1.5Tb (Games)
$230 Intel X25-M SSDSA2MH120G2K5 120Gb (OS)
$150 XFX XPS-850W-BES
$500 Asus VG236H (23" 1920x1080) + nVidia's 3D bundle
$250 Silverstone FT02

$2131 - Does that look good as a starting point?
 
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Is there any reason against using a 2600+H67 instead of 2600k if I don't plan on overclocking? The only SLI I would use (or could with an H67) is a 2-in-1 card. The Silverstone can fit the 590 if it ever came down to a decision like that, say, the 590 @ $500 in eventually, assuming it comes down that fast in a few months.

Or

2500k, Asus or MSI board, click 'overclock' and let it run OC'd forever, or when it starts aging and could use more cycles?
 
eggrock said:
The Green is for gaming..
Click to expand...
Again, it's still slower in performance than most of the current-generation HDDs. The ONLY reason to get those green drives for a gaming PC is music/pictures/movie storage. For game installations, they're not that good of a choice. I recommend this drive instead:
$65 - Samsung Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive

eggrock said:
This looks like my starting point from a completed build perspective. I'm in no rush to buy so I can shave the price down assuming deals come around or downgrade to an i5, which is probably worth it from a 'bang for buck' perspective.. Some of these have MIR but MIR's suck. Shipping is obviously extra.

$329 i7 2600k
$35 Hyper 212 HSF
$135 Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3
$350 GTX 570 Ti
$82 Mushkin Silverline 2x4Gb DDR3 1333 @ 1.5v
$70 WD Caviar Green 1.5Tb (Games)
$230 Intel X25-M SSDSA2MH120G2K5 120Gb (OS)
$150 XFX XPS-850W-BES
$500 Asus VG236H (23" 1920x1080) + nVidia's 3D bundle
$250 Silverstone FT02

$2131 - Does that look good as a starting point?
Click to expand...
For a build that's gonna be built/bought in a month from now, good starting point with the exception of the HDD . For a build 2-6 months from now, not worth the research time.

eggrock said:
Is there any reason against using a 2600+H67 instead of 2600k if I don't plan on overclocking? The only SLI I would use (or could with an H67) is a 2-in-1 card. The Silverstone can fit the 590 if it ever came down to a decision like that, say, the 590 @ $500 in eventually, assuming it comes down that fast in a few months.

Or

2500k, Asus or MSI board, click 'overclock' and let it run OC'd forever, or when it starts aging and could use more cycles?
Click to expand...
Umm, there is a H67 motherboard out there that supports SLI:
http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=CkMiq3rrqw3yqO5H

Besides the lack of overclocking, the 2600+H67 route would have slower onboard video than the 2600K+H67 route.

OC after a month or two of usage to get a baseline for what is normal or not normal with the PC at stock. It'll help determine if there are any issues related to overclocking later on.
 
Thanks everyone. I think I'll wait; the upgrade potential isn't sexy enough to warrant a buy right now.
 
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