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- Nov 11, 2009
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Awesome!!!! This will make Frank more epic-er than ever!! This is so full of win, man!
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Frank's 2013 upgrade.......
- Thread starter The1stCAV
- Start date
Could not have said it better - its chocked full of win for both as I see it.
And I just finished completing all the orders for the goodness I need.
1 x Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Sparkle High Flow 1/2" Compression Fitting (For Tygon 1/2" ID)
2 x Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter
2 x Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4"
These two orders made today - combined with the items from Primochill that are on their way will be what this water cooling system needed to operate optimally. Now all I can do is flush the blocks and wait for this all to arrive to get rolling again.
No, I actually tested the pumps too now - it has to be in the way the RePack was sitting and potentially using the top connections as opposed to the lower ones. The lower ones were much deeper into the fluid - that's the only explanation I could come up with.
I feel its only right to define the items which are "sponsored" in the event this is a concern. I know some forums expect the sponsored items to be identified so the readers are clear as to what was purchased as a personal choice and what was sponsored. However, I would like to clarify that even these items I had to decide what I wanted to incorporate into this build, so it very much remains a personal decision, my hard earned cash or not, the items I chose to put into this build are of my chosing. I chose the following items for many reasons which I define below in more detail. As I mentioned before, there was an obvious synergy between myself and Primochill's selections because I was already a user and fan of their products, so it was a natural fit.
Just to make it clear - these items are "Sponsored" versus the rest of the items I list and discuss are out of pocket personally. I want to publically thank Primochill, Mod/Smart and Kobra Cables in offering me this opportunity to showcase and discuss their products while using them in my builds. Here are the items which should be inbound to be installed in this build:
PrimoChill Pure Intensified™ Performance Coolant - Blood Red (32oz.)
PrimoChill Intensifier™ Transparent Fluid Dye – Black
PrimoChill 240mm CTR™ (Compression Tube Reservoir) System - Low Profile Base – Clear
PrimoChill 240mm CTR™ (Compression Tube Reservoir) Advanced System - Clear
PrimoChill Hex 2-Layer Rad Grillz - 120mm Red/Black
PrimoChill Hex 2-Layer Rad Grillz - Triple 120mm Red/Black
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD Tubing (10ft pack) – Crystal Clear CODE: PFLEXA10-34
Kobra Extension 24 Pin Male to Male 8"
Mod/Smart 19" High-Intensity Micro LED Strip - Red (LEDSTP-R)
Mod/Smart Full Pin Removal Tool Kit - (M-TOOLKIT)
PrimoChill ZenCoils™ Tube Res Calming Coils - Black (PCC-56-BK)
PrimoChill ZenCoils™ Tube Res Calming Coils - Gloss Red (PCC-56-R)
Mod/Smart 4" Tie Wrap Pack - 100 Count - Black (TW-4-BK-100)
PrimoChill Pure Intensified™ Performance Coolant - Blood Red (32oz.) & PrimoChill Intensifier™ Transparent Fluid Dye – Black
Obviously Frank needs coolant, and prior to this sponsorship, I have used their Pure ICE products and found I was getting some pretty good temps with it. So I have used this coolant on and off over the years while trying others as well. I am also receiving the Intensifer product in black, so I can darken the red a tad to get more to the red I like to run through the clear tubes. I expect nothing less than great temps with this fluid, because of past experiences using it. I will certainly provide some feedback once I get the system operational and Frank N SteinPC is running 100% on this coolant. Being the beast Frank is, there will be three 240mm reservoirs, 4 radiators, and the associated blocks to fill with this liquid, so Frank is a rather thirsty beast. He will most likely run all 5 bottles in this loop. I always try to anticipate potential "Oops" moments and ensure I have some extra on hand, so the 6 bottles inbound should sufice.
PrimoChill 240mm CTR™ (Compression Tube Reservoir) System - Low Profile Base – Clear
These two reservoirs were picked for multiple reasons. First, their end caps are low profile, allowing me to be able to use them in the Water Barrel portion below in a horizontal configuration. Being "compression tube reservoirs", the great thing about these is you can set the top at whatever orientation you desire, then seal it. This means you can achieve a perfect solid seal, while also having your ports in the exact orientation you want them in. What I will be doing with these reservoirs is laying them horizontally in the bottom floor of the Water Barrel.
I purchased another Bitspower Dual Mod Top Extreme for the two D5 pumps in the Alphacool RePack 5.25 bay Reservoir I have up top. I will be removing the RePack from the system entirely. The two pumps will share a side by side serial configuration below with the existing dual mod top dual D5's down there now. That will be within the center of the Water Barrel. Flanking them on left and right sides will be these reservoirs. The first one will receive the "In" from the front radiators, and then feed into the first set of D5 pumps, then into the next, then into the second Primochill CTR tube, which then feeds the MORA3.
So now by looking at these reservoirs, you can see why these were chosen for this application. It is because the ends are flat or low profile, allowing for more flexibility of the connectors and connections used in tighter spaces like down in the Water Barrel when placed in a horizontal position between front and rear radiator arrays. Also, unlike most reservoirs you can set the position or orientation of the G 1/4" holes where you want them without compromising potential seal on the reservoir cap - you get the best of both worlds here with these reservoirs.
Being my first build with them sponsoring me, I am still new and learning, but one thing I found out that also is fantastic about these reservoirs over most is the modding possibilities. Most reservoirs you buy what’s made. If a 240mm is too big, and the 120mm is a tad small, you normally were forced to go with the 120mm because it was the only thing that fit. The really cool thing is you can cut a 240mm, say down to a 200mm tube, then pop the compression end back on and your good to go. That is where the "OMG" moment came in for me. That opens up much more modding possibilities than previously possible unless you went fully custom. Now finally there is a product that supports these special needs and makes it much easier for modders to get that perfect reservoir fit.
PrimoChill 240mm CTR™ (Compression Tube Reservoir) Advanced System - Clear
Now you will notice this one has a different end cap on it, it is not flat and low profile, but has four connections on it, two lower, two upper on the cap. The base has the dual ports like the others did as well and is a low profile cap. My intentions for this reservoir is to place it between the two 5.25 Bays in the top portion of the Extended U2-UFO.
I just put in an order for a Koolance 5-way manifold. I will have four D5 pumps in series pushing that connection, that my friends is a “crap ton” (technical term -lol) of water flow and pressure being moved through those tubes. With that kind of pressure, I knew I could easily be able to feed from the Koolance manifold to my GPU's, CPU, Mosfet & SB in parallel. This means I need a way to bring them all back together once they are done cruising through the blocks - enter the Advanced end cap. It has 4 ports on it on different planes, so I can use them to bring all these connections back together into one tube. The low profile bottom will allow me to set a 45 degree connector and feed the tubing back in and under to the front radiator array.
Now you should be able to understand why this reservoir is different and the intended use of it. This will allow me to combine the parallel flows going into the blocks and give me a way to bring them back together in an easier way. Also, by placing this in the upper portion of the case, it will be the place I can manage the air bubbles, without the need to have them pushed through the lower portion of the case and have to deal with them in the reservoirs below. This will allow me to bleed the air out of the system before it goes below.
PrimoChill Hex 2-Layer Rad Grillz
I actually was thinking seriously about these grills before I ever began talking to Primochill. I like them, I like the hex pattern, and I really was trying to figure out how to get the 360 versions to work on my arrays in the Water Barrel portion, these concerns were the only things holding me back from buying them to begin with. Then I was forunate enough to talk to them, and well the rest is history.
My goal is to also have two custom grill cover sets made to appear exactly like these 120mm and 360mm layered grills, but as one solid cover that spans all 9 fans as opposed to doing like 3x360's. That would work on the front panel more than likely, however the back for the MORA3 would not, so it’s best to have two matching "1080" (9x120) grills made that appear the same, just are different spacing’s, but look like and match with the stock 120mm and 360mm Red/Black Hex 2-Layer Rad Grillz produced now.
PrimoChill ZenCoils™ Tube Res Calming Coils
Not using these before, I have no idea how they are going to look in these reservoirs. I also did not know if the red ones would disappear or add to the view, or if the black ones were going to be better, so I opt'd for both, and then we can decide. Because there will be a lot of movement of this fluid with four pumps, I needed something to help reduce the micro bubbles and swirl inside these reservoirs. I also purchased the Bitspower Anti-cyclone fittings I will be putting on the "In" on all the reservoirs. Between those anti-cyclone fittings and these Calming Coils, the issues they address should be a thing of the past.
Mod/Smart 19" High-Intensity Micro LED Strip - Red (LEDSTP-R)
I am picking up four of these, initially I am thinking of the Water Barrel portion and if these are like most LED strips, you should be able to modify them to length, but I will see and let you know. My intention is to use two of these under the two reservoirs I am placing horizontally below. This should give us good lighting under it to show the fluid moving in the tubes or at least make the fluid glow a bit. The other two I was considering using in the top portion or under the top of the Water Barrel. Really, this build needs to progress to that point before the placement is final.
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD Tubing
I have said it many times before and will continue to say it anytime the discussion of tubing comes up - I personally believe you cannot find a better product than the Advanced LRT tubing, in any color. I love this stuff and the ability to flex without kinking, the feel of this stuff is awesome, the clarity is awesome, etc. The other thing is Primochill is working hard to ensure their colored tubing matches their colored reservoirs, flow indicators, etc - so you could actually do a full colored loop and yet still use distilled water and not stain anything in your loop. Personally I love clear tubing and colored fluid, but if you’re not a fan of colored fluid, but still want a colored loop - this is certainly something to consider IMO.
Other items not pictured above are:
Mod/Smart 4" Tie Wrap Pack - 100 Count - Black (TW-4-BK-100)
This goes without saying I think - you cannot do a build without tie wraps for the most part. Considering I am big on sewing, there will be minimal use of tie wraps, but during the "beautification" process I will need to tie some things back and out of the way, so I picked up some ties from them to accomplish this need.
Kobra Custom Extension 24 Pin Male to Male 8”
Considering I am using dual PSU's in this build, this will assist me in connecting the Silverstone PSU to the Bitspower Multi-PSU X-Station below. I needed a short Male to Male jumper cable that allows me to connect the 24-pin on the PSU to the Bitspower module.
There you have it - the items being sponsored and what their intended uses are within this build, why I selected these items, what they solved for me, and why I feel they are a perfect fit in this build. I will of course have more once they are in hand and I actually get to work with and use them, I will provide that feedback as well.
One of two orders arrived from my favorite mod store. Lots of goodies, though very hard to believe the cost on these and how they add up. I unfortunatley decided to see how much I have invested in only Bitspower items in this build - OMG I was shocked how much these really do add up.
The Bitspower Dual Mod Top Extreme and the two Black Sparkle Bitspower mod pump bottoms. This will house the two pumps below and assist with the fluid flow for the large loop. Currently the two pumps below are working, but not optimally, the flow is very good, just not sure I want to rely on just those two pumps because I know it can flow better. So these items will allow me to do four D5 pumps below to ensure there is enough flow and pump redundancy to keep that coolant in motion.
Koolance SPL-XFR3 is a piece I have always wanted to figure out a reason to own/use. For some reason I just really love this piece and finally an application arrives that I can actually use this. I will have the "In" hit this piece from the MORA3. This will feed the GPU's, the CPU, and the Mosfet/SB blocks in parallel. Those blocks will then feed back into the 240mm Primochill reservoir I am still waiting on to arrive. So this did not get installed yet - but is destined to be the one I use to do the parallel block feed with.
More of the Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings. There are 4 connectors there that I have needed more times than I want to count. I could actually use about 30 of those connectors, and that is the Male to Male Rotary, sitting right behind the stop plugs. These are so critical for things like Flow Sensor placements within a loop. Stationary Male to Male connectors work - but once tight, that is the position whatever you have attached will remain at - with these you can still turn the flow meter or whatever to the angle needed. I cannot tell you how many times I needed these and just never have enough. The stubby barbs will be what I use on the manifold and in places where the bulky compression fitting heads can take over a space.
A shot showing the fluid going through the single loop configuration and the fact I am wiring it up now with stock cables to get Frank online. The leak test went 18+ hours and is solid - so now time to get Frank online.
Just showing the fittings, the tubing, and the basic look of Frank's CPU area.
Here is a temp solution until the Primochill 240mm Advanced CTR reservoir arrives. This is an old Phoyba 150mm reservoir I stuck between the 5.25" bays to help bleed the air before they are fed into the front radiators. This is also a more convenient fill point as well. So I used the res here to fill the loop once we got enough fluid in the lower chamber reservoir and pumps to begin moving the fluid through the loops.
I just love the look of red fluid cruising through clear tubes......I also tested the pumps in the RePack unit that wasn't working for me and caused all this delay - come to find out I apparently had tested the same pump twice, because this time I found one of the pumps was barely working, it had little to no flow. So that explains why the RePack unit failed in the original dual loop configuration. I ordered another MCP655-B and it should be here next week. I will need it with the other working pump to install in the Dual Mod Top Extreme Bitspower unit.
Frank gets to sport his side panel for this photo op. I was in the process of buttoning everything up and getting ready to fire up Frank. Leak test was successful - at this point I only had the two pump leads to finish installing/dressing/connecting, so I figured I would button up the case a bit and put the panels on to get a sense of what is to come.
Showing a more overall look and the wiring mess I will be attending to under the motherboard tray
A more overall top down view to show the connections, cables, and clutter up top now. You can now see we enter in through the bottom GPU for the single loop. That feeds the CPU, then the Mosfet, then the South Bridge before heading back to the Phoyba reservoir.
So, I was ready to fire Frank up FINALLY! Inserted the power plug in the back from the wall, and figured I would test everything but the motherboard first, mainly I was going to kick the PSU in to fire up all fans in the case to see them work. That was really what I was going to do first, just test and make sure the pumps and fans are all going to work - because it’s a given the rest of the power connections are pretty standard and should work, so I pulled the 24-pin off the motherboard, and did the jumper thing - and the PSU went "Click, click, click" and would not turn on. Oh great, something is shorting out and causing this thing to fail. I had spent from 7:30am to around 11PM on this thing and figured it was time to go to bed.
This morning I woke, ripped the PSU out of Frank and just tested it stand alone with just the 24-pin power cable, the wall power supply cable and the jumper. It fired right up without an issue. This means something I had connected to it, was causing it to fail. So now the installation/troubleshooting begins. I will be installing one cable at a time, testing to see if the PSU fires up, and then move to the next until I find the connection/cable that causes it to fail again then address it at that time. So off I go to see if I can bring this beast to life finally. It will however be torn back down once the Primochill items arrive to install all the reservoirs, the pumps, etc. But hopefully I can get this monster operational and useable before then.
The Bitspower Dual Mod Top Extreme and the two Black Sparkle Bitspower mod pump bottoms. This will house the two pumps below and assist with the fluid flow for the large loop. Currently the two pumps below are working, but not optimally, the flow is very good, just not sure I want to rely on just those two pumps because I know it can flow better. So these items will allow me to do four D5 pumps below to ensure there is enough flow and pump redundancy to keep that coolant in motion.
Koolance SPL-XFR3 is a piece I have always wanted to figure out a reason to own/use. For some reason I just really love this piece and finally an application arrives that I can actually use this. I will have the "In" hit this piece from the MORA3. This will feed the GPU's, the CPU, and the Mosfet/SB blocks in parallel. Those blocks will then feed back into the 240mm Primochill reservoir I am still waiting on to arrive. So this did not get installed yet - but is destined to be the one I use to do the parallel block feed with.
More of the Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings. There are 4 connectors there that I have needed more times than I want to count. I could actually use about 30 of those connectors, and that is the Male to Male Rotary, sitting right behind the stop plugs. These are so critical for things like Flow Sensor placements within a loop. Stationary Male to Male connectors work - but once tight, that is the position whatever you have attached will remain at - with these you can still turn the flow meter or whatever to the angle needed. I cannot tell you how many times I needed these and just never have enough. The stubby barbs will be what I use on the manifold and in places where the bulky compression fitting heads can take over a space.
A shot showing the fluid going through the single loop configuration and the fact I am wiring it up now with stock cables to get Frank online. The leak test went 18+ hours and is solid - so now time to get Frank online.
Just showing the fittings, the tubing, and the basic look of Frank's CPU area.
Here is a temp solution until the Primochill 240mm Advanced CTR reservoir arrives. This is an old Phoyba 150mm reservoir I stuck between the 5.25" bays to help bleed the air before they are fed into the front radiators. This is also a more convenient fill point as well. So I used the res here to fill the loop once we got enough fluid in the lower chamber reservoir and pumps to begin moving the fluid through the loops.
I just love the look of red fluid cruising through clear tubes......I also tested the pumps in the RePack unit that wasn't working for me and caused all this delay - come to find out I apparently had tested the same pump twice, because this time I found one of the pumps was barely working, it had little to no flow. So that explains why the RePack unit failed in the original dual loop configuration. I ordered another MCP655-B and it should be here next week. I will need it with the other working pump to install in the Dual Mod Top Extreme Bitspower unit.
Frank gets to sport his side panel for this photo op. I was in the process of buttoning everything up and getting ready to fire up Frank. Leak test was successful - at this point I only had the two pump leads to finish installing/dressing/connecting, so I figured I would button up the case a bit and put the panels on to get a sense of what is to come.
Showing a more overall look and the wiring mess I will be attending to under the motherboard tray
A more overall top down view to show the connections, cables, and clutter up top now. You can now see we enter in through the bottom GPU for the single loop. That feeds the CPU, then the Mosfet, then the South Bridge before heading back to the Phoyba reservoir.
So, I was ready to fire Frank up FINALLY! Inserted the power plug in the back from the wall, and figured I would test everything but the motherboard first, mainly I was going to kick the PSU in to fire up all fans in the case to see them work. That was really what I was going to do first, just test and make sure the pumps and fans are all going to work - because it’s a given the rest of the power connections are pretty standard and should work, so I pulled the 24-pin off the motherboard, and did the jumper thing - and the PSU went "Click, click, click" and would not turn on. Oh great, something is shorting out and causing this thing to fail. I had spent from 7:30am to around 11PM on this thing and figured it was time to go to bed.
This morning I woke, ripped the PSU out of Frank and just tested it stand alone with just the 24-pin power cable, the wall power supply cable and the jumper. It fired right up without an issue. This means something I had connected to it, was causing it to fail. So now the installation/troubleshooting begins. I will be installing one cable at a time, testing to see if the PSU fires up, and then move to the next until I find the connection/cable that causes it to fail again then address it at that time. So off I go to see if I can bring this beast to life finally. It will however be torn back down once the Primochill items arrive to install all the reservoirs, the pumps, etc. But hopefully I can get this monster operational and useable before then.
StatutoryApe
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2011
- Messages
- 309
You just can't win this time, eh? lol
I WILL WIN DAMNIT!
You got that right AUS10, its most certainly the biggest challenge yet. So far though, most things are working - not sure wtf the issue was, still have yet to connect GPU's and CPU power............For people that love a challenge, this is a great hobby....
That's not a good sign....
congrats! whats your ambient?
D
Deleted member 82943
Guest
is it me or was that a lot of tim on the chip?
Where?
D
Deleted member 82943
Guest
here: http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1039416478&postcount=27 , half way down the post
Photo opportunity - then I realized the same, and made the change before applying the water block. Yeah, the glob looks like its about 3x the size it needed to be.
Some images of Frank while I was bringing him to life, loading OS, etc.
D
Deleted member 82943
Guest
Photo opportunity - then I realized the same, and made the change before applying the water block. Yeah, the glob looks like its about 3x the size it needed to be.
I only ask because I'm never confident how much to put (TIM) on my chips.
Fantastic build man, truly, a fraken build.
Damnit man you were not supposed to notice that
lol, yeah I saw that and realized I had turned them off instead of up or down, middle position is off on those switches. So that was why you saw a few not spinning. I need to watch that. Now the hard work begins......................time to build all new custom cables, sleeve them, then sew them - Frank N Stein Style
Ahh, well I usually go with about a pea size, that was more of a cherry tomato sized wasn't it?
Thanks, yeah he was a beast to build to this point and one monster on the wallet. I still have the loops to fix when all the Primochill items arrive and I drop in those three reservoirs, I break the loops into Parallel runs instead of serial, and add in the Koolance Monifold, as well as the additional Bitspower Dual Mod Top to have four pumps below. Then the hardware portion is done, all that will be left is cables and clean up/polishing touches. Only 2 more months to go..............
Well according to the free DB meter app on the iPhone. it shows average is around 50db, but I do not believe it. It sounds more like I can hear the pumps more than the fans in quiet mode. Now crank them all at full, yeah its like a traditional box fan on about medium. You know fans are running without a doubt - but normal running, its quieter than the 800D build was.
triviumnate
Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2005
- Messages
- 852
any updates?
marezmichael
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2012
- Messages
- 67
I was really looking forward to an update lol. i've been foloowing this thread since the beginning, amazing work
This weekend I went to work on trying to get the Alphacool USB display working and the Heatmaster to work and read temps. I was able to get both working though minimally. I believe the software for the Heatmaster is way out of date as most of the pre-defined plug-in items such as Rivatuner, Asus Probe, etc were all for Windows 2000, ME, and XP era. The newer Rivatuner, the Asus Probe II and things do not work with this - so trying to get things to read right from simply the Alphacool Display software was a challenge. Then either their software or the subsequent installs that followed, something started giving me USBHUB.sys BSOD's every single time I wanted to shut down or restart. Once I did a System Restore back to where I was previously at before installing the Alphacool display software, only then did the BSOD's stop. The things you see in the images below are the only sensors it was reading correctly. It could not even read basic board information or things like RAM, it was saying I showed 1GB of RAM and I was sitting at 16GB. The fate of this device is still undetermined.
Then we go to play with the Heatmaster. NONE of the Heatmaster items were able to be shown or pulled into the Alphacool display options, so none of the monitoring I wanted to do is going to work at this time unless Alphacool replies to my email with some magic bullets to make it all work nicely together. However the Heatmaster software as lacking as it was, did do what I wanted and that was monitor temps and flow. The problem is its all in line graphs and no digital numbered read out like I was hoping for. You have to follow the lines and guess within a degree or two where temps may be around. So I am not impressed at all at this time. Should have gone with Aquero stuff TBH.
BENCHMARKING
So I figured I would go OC for a bit and see if I could get Frank to 5.1Ghz. Moving my way through the benchmarks, testing, and tweaking I was able to work from 4.6Ghz to 4.9Ghz, then run a solid bench, Prime95 for hours, etc. Moved into the 5Ghz land finally, did a benchmark, ran Prime 95 for hours, stable. So I moved into the 5.1Ghz area, things again went stable and I then was able to benchmark in 3DMark. So I was pretty happy that I am officially in the 5Ghz club with a very stable 5.1Ghz clock w/6-cores of monster goodness. I figured that wasn't enough, so I took my RAM from 1866Mhz and pushed to 2133Mhz and benched all over again at 9-11-9-28 timing and things were solid.
Below are the results of the many tests.
Then we go to play with the Heatmaster. NONE of the Heatmaster items were able to be shown or pulled into the Alphacool display options, so none of the monitoring I wanted to do is going to work at this time unless Alphacool replies to my email with some magic bullets to make it all work nicely together. However the Heatmaster software as lacking as it was, did do what I wanted and that was monitor temps and flow. The problem is its all in line graphs and no digital numbered read out like I was hoping for. You have to follow the lines and guess within a degree or two where temps may be around. So I am not impressed at all at this time. Should have gone with Aquero stuff TBH.
BENCHMARKING
So I figured I would go OC for a bit and see if I could get Frank to 5.1Ghz. Moving my way through the benchmarks, testing, and tweaking I was able to work from 4.6Ghz to 4.9Ghz, then run a solid bench, Prime95 for hours, etc. Moved into the 5Ghz land finally, did a benchmark, ran Prime 95 for hours, stable. So I moved into the 5.1Ghz area, things again went stable and I then was able to benchmark in 3DMark. So I was pretty happy that I am officially in the 5Ghz club with a very stable 5.1Ghz clock w/6-cores of monster goodness. I figured that wasn't enough, so I took my RAM from 1866Mhz and pushed to 2133Mhz and benched all over again at 9-11-9-28 timing and things were solid.
Below are the results of the many tests.
I wanted to share something I thought was pretty cool that Lutro0 Customs is doing. They put up a live stream daily while they sleeve cables. You can go on and watch them do it and ask questions. They have this going daily, so if you wanted to learn sleeving or have questions about sleeving, this is a great place to go and learn from the experts.
http://livestre.am/17C7f
http://livestre.am/17C7f
I received some goodies in the mail today from Lutro0 Customs (http://lutro0-customs.com/). As you all know I have always been very fond of my MDPC sleeving and raved about it many times. So let’s get one thing straight, I like options, competition is good for you, for me and for everyone. It keeps prices in check, drives innovation and increases quality for the price. With that said, this is a perfect example of a guy that took the established standards and said "hey I can do that too, if not better". OK, I have no idea if he ever said that, but I certainly did with one of the companies I started 10+ years ago and was quite successful going after a space largely dominated by well-established players.
So I can understand the spirit that comes with trying to compete in a space that was once pretty much dominated by very few companies. Nils @ MDPC is a great guy, he has great products and puts that personal touch in his packages we all know and love so well. However, there must be competition, and there must be alternatives to the status quote. All business people know this, we may not like it, sure we wish we could be the only ones in our space, but it’s those competitors that keeps us real and keeps us in check, and I suspect that is the impact Mike had when he started Lutro0 Customs in the sleeving world.
The big pretty rolls are coreless paracord - my latest love. I have already done a strand just to see how it worked and I am sold, hook line and sinker - I love this stuff. There is some stiff line sleeving there as samples given, then I show several connectors that are about to be put to good use in both this current build and the next one up. Yes, you heard me right, the next one. What did you think I was putting purple in Frank? lmao, no, not gonna happen. That purple is for Mrs Stein and her shiny little black and tidy build that is next. Notice the tool sitting in the center with "LC" on it. If any of you followed my tutorials I did a while back on sleeving, I showed where I was setting the tick marks for distances for the crimp connector, sleeving spacing, etc. Then I would use that set of tick marks to cut and do my sleeving with. This tool is those tick marks I never have to make again. I also show the crimpers which I will talk about in a couple pics. Then all the rest of the goodies.
To make things easy, Mike took the time to detail out why each item is the best it can be in his experience, his reasoning behind including it in his offerings, etc. I think his passion and desire to provide the best sleeving, the best tools, the best sleeving experience, is well articulated in each of his pages. Read it for yourself and decide, but personally I think his focus is clear and that is something I can get behind when someone is overly passionate about the work they do every day.
Here are some links to help you out on the items I am showing here:
I swear I cannot get this camera to pick up that purple the way I am looking at it. No matter what I do to it in Lightroom to try and bring the right tints out, its not playing nice. This is the most beautiful purple sleeving ever IMO.
Soooooo many connectors to use. Frank will be using most of these as I start cabling - yes I plan on starting really soon. Just been waiting on the items Primochill is sending to install them first so I know what I have to work with for cable routing.
I thought my crimper was good. Yeah, I had crimped wires my whole life from 18awg to 750mcm and even 777, but back to this small stuff, I found out today just how bad my crimpers really were. There is a reason Lutro0 Customs sells these, he has gone through multiple pairs of crimpers to find THE right ones that works the best and he most certainly did. If you plan on sleeving and you’re not using these crimpers - you’re doing it wrong, that all, plain and simple. I will never use another set of crimpers, I just found the ones I like. They feel good, and crimp perfectly - every time. I will be doing some videos coming up of sleeving and crimping, I have to show you all the difference between what my old crimper would do to a crimp and what these do. I always knew a good crimp never needs solder, you just put soldier on them for added strength and conductivity. However I never had a crimp I trusted fully without dropping some solder on it - this thing is freaking awesome, it does a crimp right.
Lutro0 Customs Coreless Paracord and this purple is stunning. I love the black as well, and the lighter purple, but I simply cannot express how good this stuff looks in person. Everything about this stuff says "sleeve me on some cable NOW!".........
Paracord sleeving tool on top of some paracord - again, you can get this at Lutro0 Customs site. I would not consider sleeving paracord without it. This stuff is so soft, the little tines on the pins will snag it all day long and really piss you off. I know some say use a straw - seriously? They always say, use the right tool for the right job and that most certainly applies right here.
So thanks for letting me take a moment and share this bundle of goodness I am over here playing with. I will be ordering some Red and Charcoal as well. I think Frank is getting paracord this round. Lutro0 Customs Imperial Red, Black, and Charcoal, to be exact. I'll be back with some more to show as we keep moving forward with this build.
So I can understand the spirit that comes with trying to compete in a space that was once pretty much dominated by very few companies. Nils @ MDPC is a great guy, he has great products and puts that personal touch in his packages we all know and love so well. However, there must be competition, and there must be alternatives to the status quote. All business people know this, we may not like it, sure we wish we could be the only ones in our space, but it’s those competitors that keeps us real and keeps us in check, and I suspect that is the impact Mike had when he started Lutro0 Customs in the sleeving world.
The big pretty rolls are coreless paracord - my latest love. I have already done a strand just to see how it worked and I am sold, hook line and sinker - I love this stuff. There is some stiff line sleeving there as samples given, then I show several connectors that are about to be put to good use in both this current build and the next one up. Yes, you heard me right, the next one. What did you think I was putting purple in Frank? lmao, no, not gonna happen. That purple is for Mrs Stein and her shiny little black and tidy build that is next. Notice the tool sitting in the center with "LC" on it. If any of you followed my tutorials I did a while back on sleeving, I showed where I was setting the tick marks for distances for the crimp connector, sleeving spacing, etc. Then I would use that set of tick marks to cut and do my sleeving with. This tool is those tick marks I never have to make again. I also show the crimpers which I will talk about in a couple pics. Then all the rest of the goodies.
To make things easy, Mike took the time to detail out why each item is the best it can be in his experience, his reasoning behind including it in his offerings, etc. I think his passion and desire to provide the best sleeving, the best tools, the best sleeving experience, is well articulated in each of his pages. Read it for yourself and decide, but personally I think his focus is clear and that is something I can get behind when someone is overly passionate about the work they do every day.
Here are some links to help you out on the items I am showing here:
- LC Flush Cutter: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-flush-cutter
- LC RATCHET CRIMPER: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-ratchet-crimper
- Paracord Tool (threader): http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader
- LC Sleeving Tool AI Version: http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/products/products/lc-sleeving-tool-ai-version
- Coreless Paracord Purple: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/coreless-paracord-purple-25ft
- Coreless Paracord Acid Purple: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/coreless-paracord-acid-purple-25ft
- Coreless Paracord Black: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/coreless-paracord-black-25ft
- All Kinds of Connectors: http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/connectors-terminals
I swear I cannot get this camera to pick up that purple the way I am looking at it. No matter what I do to it in Lightroom to try and bring the right tints out, its not playing nice. This is the most beautiful purple sleeving ever IMO.
Soooooo many connectors to use. Frank will be using most of these as I start cabling - yes I plan on starting really soon. Just been waiting on the items Primochill is sending to install them first so I know what I have to work with for cable routing.
I thought my crimper was good. Yeah, I had crimped wires my whole life from 18awg to 750mcm and even 777, but back to this small stuff, I found out today just how bad my crimpers really were. There is a reason Lutro0 Customs sells these, he has gone through multiple pairs of crimpers to find THE right ones that works the best and he most certainly did. If you plan on sleeving and you’re not using these crimpers - you’re doing it wrong, that all, plain and simple. I will never use another set of crimpers, I just found the ones I like. They feel good, and crimp perfectly - every time. I will be doing some videos coming up of sleeving and crimping, I have to show you all the difference between what my old crimper would do to a crimp and what these do. I always knew a good crimp never needs solder, you just put soldier on them for added strength and conductivity. However I never had a crimp I trusted fully without dropping some solder on it - this thing is freaking awesome, it does a crimp right.
Lutro0 Customs Coreless Paracord and this purple is stunning. I love the black as well, and the lighter purple, but I simply cannot express how good this stuff looks in person. Everything about this stuff says "sleeve me on some cable NOW!".........
Paracord sleeving tool on top of some paracord - again, you can get this at Lutro0 Customs site. I would not consider sleeving paracord without it. This stuff is so soft, the little tines on the pins will snag it all day long and really piss you off. I know some say use a straw - seriously? They always say, use the right tool for the right job and that most certainly applies right here.
So thanks for letting me take a moment and share this bundle of goodness I am over here playing with. I will be ordering some Red and Charcoal as well. I think Frank is getting paracord this round. Lutro0 Customs Imperial Red, Black, and Charcoal, to be exact. I'll be back with some more to show as we keep moving forward with this build.
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AuraofVengeance
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2011
- Messages
- 77
Awesome Review , looking at your pictures just makes me want to do nothing but sit around and sleeve all day
, looking at your pictures just makes me want to do nothing but sit around and sleeve all day LMAO, well yeah it was a bit high on the voltage, but stable as hell benchmarking. Back down to 1.38v now and still solid as a rock. I would only consider that high a voltage to do a bench/stability test and then GTFO. I agree, not something you would ever want to run 24/7 unless you like buying processors each month because I bet it would burn up rather quickly, even though Frank was keeping temps well under control.
I want to start this weekend so bad sleeving Frank up, but need to wait for the red and charcoal to arrive. Next weekend my wife is heading out of town for mothers day so I get basically 3 days alone to mod - its gonna be awesome. I should have all my Primochill items by then, another order I just placed at PPCS by then and the order form Lutro0 Customs by then. So next weekend is seriously going to kick off the next leg of this build in a big way. Then I will be sleeving all day, all night, the next day...........lol. damn Frank has a lot of cables.Awesome Review
Well I think I purchased the solution I needed to monitor this water cooling loop like I need to. The Heatmaster I did not work as I mentioned. I have checked out multiple options, but because I have so much invested at this moment, I needed to find a solution that would work, but be pretty cheap to be honest. So I almost picked up a Koolance unit that would have been perfect, but turns out it was $169 USD, again I had to go cheap, I have $200 invested in this stuff that doesn't work and cannot sell it, return it, etc - so I am stuck with it.
I think this will do what I need.
Koolance Flow Meter Adapter With Display - DCM-FM01
The DCB-FM01 displays flow rate or pulse signals from Koolance INS-FM16, INS-FM17/N, or INS-FM18 flow meters. Display units can be toggled between liters per minute, gallons per minute, or raw impeller pulse rate (Hz). Pulse rate conversion can also be manually configured on the DCB-FM01 for custom flow meters. An aluminum mounting bracket is included for computer 5.25in drive bay installation.
DCM-FM01 has a separate output which multiplies the flow meter signal for readability by most fan tachometer headers. This output is intended to allow fan detection software or BIOS to enable the appropriate alarm or shutdown procedure if the flow meter impeller stops rotating. The "RPMs" represent approximate coolant flow rate in mL/min and not the flow meter's revolutions. Power input is 12V DC.
Phobya Display Bus - Temp Sensor Display - Custom PH-70149-CUST
This Phobya slot faceplate is the last piece for installing the common digital temperature displays in the front of your case.I chose to put two red digital read-outs here for temps.
The Koolance item will let me monitor flow rates and set the MB to shut down when the RPM's dip below X. This unit will let me monitor the flow from the 5.25 bays.
The Phobya Display Bus has two display units, each one with a red LCD read out showing temps. This I can use to monitor enter/exit temps with my existing temp probes already installed.
It may not be an elegant solution, but it works, it will do the basics I need:
Monitor Flow Rates
Shut down in the event the flow stops
Show me enter/exit temps
That's really all I needed. So this should work for Frank N Stien.
I think this will do what I need.
Koolance Flow Meter Adapter With Display - DCM-FM01
The DCB-FM01 displays flow rate or pulse signals from Koolance INS-FM16, INS-FM17/N, or INS-FM18 flow meters. Display units can be toggled between liters per minute, gallons per minute, or raw impeller pulse rate (Hz). Pulse rate conversion can also be manually configured on the DCB-FM01 for custom flow meters. An aluminum mounting bracket is included for computer 5.25in drive bay installation.
DCM-FM01 has a separate output which multiplies the flow meter signal for readability by most fan tachometer headers. This output is intended to allow fan detection software or BIOS to enable the appropriate alarm or shutdown procedure if the flow meter impeller stops rotating. The "RPMs" represent approximate coolant flow rate in mL/min and not the flow meter's revolutions. Power input is 12V DC.
Phobya Display Bus - Temp Sensor Display - Custom PH-70149-CUST
This Phobya slot faceplate is the last piece for installing the common digital temperature displays in the front of your case.I chose to put two red digital read-outs here for temps.
The Koolance item will let me monitor flow rates and set the MB to shut down when the RPM's dip below X. This unit will let me monitor the flow from the 5.25 bays.
The Phobya Display Bus has two display units, each one with a red LCD read out showing temps. This I can use to monitor enter/exit temps with my existing temp probes already installed.
It may not be an elegant solution, but it works, it will do the basics I need:
Monitor Flow Rates
Shut down in the event the flow stops
Show me enter/exit temps
That's really all I needed. So this should work for Frank N Stien.
LOL, I am such a bad influence I know
Picked up some LED strips off eBay and figured I would give them a shot last night.
Yep - time to tone these babies back, they reveal way too much dust already (facepalm) - there was absolutely no need at 5am to turn on lights in my office to take this picture. The only lighting being used was Frank. OK, too much light, tim to take out about 80% of them.
Someone asked me what draw this beast has on current on another forum. I never really thought to see what this beast actually pulls from the wall. I never gave it a thought because I thought that took one of those devices you stick in the socket then you plug our PC into it and it shows you the real time draw. Then the (facepalm) moment occurred - I have quite the hefty and kick ass UPS dedicated to Frank. This UPS has a LED panel that gives me all kinds of readouts, hmm wonder if it shows me real time draw? Oh would you look at that it does, so let’s go drop a stress test via 3DMARK on EXTREME to get all cores rolling, all GPU's pushing, etc, and let’s see what Frank REALLY draws.........477-.490kw at its peak. That is about 477W total, umm, say goodbye to the second PSU, there is no need for it at all. I will use it on my wife's build seeing I already have it wrapped and all I need to do is repaint the fan to purple. So we can safely say the LEPA G1600, 1,600W PSU is going to be more than adequate to handle this machine’s needs.
If you have ever followed my builds before, I typically go through many looks until I get that "ah hah" moment and the vision becomes clear. Pondering my loops, how I was ultimately going to do this, it was revealed to me last night what this build will be. Standing there looking down at the MB, the tube routing currently, I decided, I love a clean look, I am not doing the multiple tubes everywhere with the Koolance Manifold. As much as I really wanted to use that piece, it isn't in the ultimate plan now. As the vision became clearer to me, I saw exactly how to route this in a serial fashion that is going to be PERFECT for this board, the blocks I am using, etc - it will visually flow so tight, so clean. I am so freaking excited to get rolling now that I found my direction.
it does, so let’s go drop a stress test via 3DMARK on EXTREME to get all cores rolling, all GPU's pushing, etc, and let’s see what Frank REALLY draws.........477-.490kw at its peak. That is about 477W total, umm, say goodbye to the second PSU, there is no need for it at all. I will use it on my wife's build seeing I already have it wrapped and all I need to do is repaint the fan to purple. So we can safely say the LEPA G1600, 1,600W PSU is going to be more than adequate to handle this machine’s needs.If you have ever followed my builds before, I typically go through many looks until I get that "ah hah" moment and the vision becomes clear. Pondering my loops, how I was ultimately going to do this, it was revealed to me last night what this build will be. Standing there looking down at the MB, the tube routing currently, I decided, I love a clean look, I am not doing the multiple tubes everywhere with the Koolance Manifold. As much as I really wanted to use that piece, it isn't in the ultimate plan now. As the vision became clearer to me, I saw exactly how to route this in a serial fashion that is going to be PERFECT for this board, the blocks I am using, etc - it will visually flow so tight, so clean. I am so freaking excited to get rolling now that I found my direction.
- (1) - I will exit a horizontal Primochill 240mm CRT Reservoir, routes to the first Bitspower D5 Dual Mod Top Extreme set
- (2) - enters the first Bitspower D5 Dual Mod Top Extreme set, my vision here is to do this via Crystal Links or clear acrylic tube.
- (3) - Leaves the Bitspower D5 Dual Mod Top Extreme set and what I have in mind should allow for a minimal distance connection between pumps. I potentially could be using the Bitspower SLI adjustable distance connectors here if possible.
- (4/5) - Enters the second Bitspower D5 Dual Mod Top Extreme set then leaves and enters the horizontal Primochill CRT Reservoir.
- (6/7) - Enters the horizontal Primochill 240mm CRT Reservoir then leaves and heads into the Watercool MO-RA 3
- (8/9) - Enters and leaves the Watercool MO-RA3 Radiator. The only difference between a MORA3 LT and a MORA3, is the LT only allows for fans on one side - this was an LT Radiator, but how I have it mounted I am using it as a MORA3 because I have 9 push and 9 pulls fans on it, using the case to mount the other side that did not initially accept those 9 fans to be mounted. The side the MORA3 provides for fan mounting is seen inside where the Xigmatech Crystal Series Red LED fans are mounted - that nice wall of red lit fan goodness
- (10/11) - the critical piece to monitor the flow rates to ensure coolant is moving as it should. This will run to the new Koolance 5.25" bay device I mentioned I was ordering. That will allow me to monitor this visually on the front panels and keep an eye on flow rates. I will only use that as a flow monitoring device, I will actually control the pumps and fans manually.
- ENTER TEMP SENSOR - I will drop in a T-Block to pick up the enter temps and report them to the Temp Sensor readouts I mentioned I was picking up. Well after looking at the units, I am not using them in the 5.25" bay device mounting. I have decided that I will have one enter and one exit route that will run through the motherboard tray. I have space on that motherboard tray to cut rectangles out and mount those temp read outs. So where I now have a red patch of 3M Carbon Fiber vinyl Wrap that has the pass-through for the GPU's and where the coolant is entering - this will be where I mount the first Temp Readout on the MB tray, right by the tubing connection. I will indicate that this is the "Enter" temp. So when looking inside the unit, you will be able to see what enter and exit temps are by looking at the read outs by the tubing where it enters and exits.
- (12/13) - Because I do not need the second PSU, this opens up that area and allows for tighter routing of the connection here to the GPU blocks above. This is where it begins to get very nice in terms of direct serial loop routing. I will enter in the bottom right G1/4 port, then exit out the top left G1/4 port. This will allow the three GTX 680's to be cooled initially in a parallel manner.
- (14/15) - Where the tubing will exit from the GPU's, this is almost perfectly in line to go directly into the Mosfet with a beautiful tubing curve from GPU to Mosfet.
- (16/17) - The Mosfet will then feed the CPU and exit the CPU to the south bridge block.
- (18/19) - The final block in the loop, this will be fed directly from the CPU block, and then route to the Primochill Advanced CRT 400m reservoir I will have at top -
- (20/21) - The Primochill Advanced CRT 400m is for both visuals and functional as I hope to use this to fill and bleed the systems air pockets from here. Within this Primochill Advanced CRT 400mm reservoir, the bottom cap has four ports. Using those four ports I can drop in an LED cap, a Bitspower Temp Probe, the feed from the EK SB block, and the feed heading to the radiators.
- EXIT TEMPS - Between the EK SB Block and the Primochill 400m Advanced CRT reservoir the tubing will pass through the MB again by the RAM/24-pin area. There is a nice flat area that I can mount the second temp display that I am taking out of that 5.25" readout thing I purchased. This will show me the exit temps from the loop, but will be read from the bottom of the Primochill 400mm Advanced CRT.
- (22/23) - We then will come into the first of three 360 radiators below. This first radiator is a Swiftech 3x120mm radiator with push/pull fans. This will then feed to the next radiator below it.
- (24/25) - This will run through the Black Ice Extreme 360 rad, one of my first radiators I ever used in Frank and its still one awesome radiator. This of course is also running Push/Pull fans.
- (26/27) - The last radiator is the newest addition to my rad collection, the Alphacool UT60 360Rad and it works. I cannot say that I am as excited about it as my Black Ice Extreme but it does a very good job, certainly a performer for sure. If I had to select a rad I had that I really don’t care for its the Swiftech one, its almost worthless in this loop, but there so no rad is in the top spot, plus it’s the thinnest rad, so the visual progression down steps up with each rad being a little thicker than the previous one.
- (28/29) - The Bitspower analog flow meter - always a good thing to have at the other end to just give a visual indicator the coolant is cruising through and the propeller isn’t standing still - that would not be a good thing.
- (30) - This connection brings the loop full circle and enters in the horizontal Primochill 240mm CRT Reservoir that will then feed to the first Bitspower D5 Dual Mod Top Extreme set as described above in (1).
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