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First build in 6? years

elrechazao

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Messages
340
Answers in bold:

1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc
PC gaming, some light video encoding, web browsing, etc.
2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included? Around 1k USD.
Would hope to include shipping and tax.
3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.
US, Ohio
4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.
CPU, MOBO, RAM, GPU, SSD, HD, Case, PSU, OS
5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.
None
6) Will you be overclocking?
I would like to, yes.
7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?
Currently 22 inch, 1080. Probably getting an upgrade, but same size and res. Just better quality. Maybe up to 24 inches.
8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
Next few weeks/months. I plan to buy parts as deals come up probably.
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video? etc.
I would like to future proof, so I'd like USB3.0, sata6g, no SLI needed. Going one card solution for sure.
10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?
No, I plan to purchase OEM 64 bit windows 7.

I live close enough to go to microcenter, and would like to hit them up for one of their mobo/CPU in store deals. Currently considering an i2600k with this mobo (80 bucks off the mobo when bought in combo) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131781&Tpk=p8z68-v lx
 
Do you really want a SSD? It's gonna put you over your $1000 budget.
 
I do, I'd probably be willing to skimp elsewhere. I should also mention that I don't need or want a soundcard, and can go cheap on the hard drive (size wise, not quality necessarily). I don't find I need a huge HD.
 
You can save $100 towards your budget by going with the 2500K instead of the 2600K, but I'm guessing the $80 combo deal is only on the 2600K?
 
You can save $100 towards your budget by going with the 2500K instead of the 2600K, but I'm guessing the $80 combo deal is only on the 2600K?

That's correct, but the 2500 is 100 less, so it's a net savings of 20 dollar still. Still...20 bucks extra for the 2600 seems worth it, no?
 
$325 - Intel Core i7 2600K + that Asus mobo you chose.
$42 - G.Skill Value Series F3-10666CL9D-8GBNT 2 x 4GB DDR3 1333 RAM
$230 - eVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB 1GB PCI-E Video Card
$111 - Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SSD
$65 - Hitachi Desktar 7K1000.D HDS721010DLE630 1TB SATA 6.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$73 - Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W PSU
$70 - Lian Li Lancool PC-K58 ATX Case
$100 - Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit OEM
-----
Total: $1016 shipped

In case you're wondering, that Hitachi drive is one of the fastest consumer drives out there. So the $20 more for it over a 500GB drive is well worth it.
 
$325 - Intel Core i7 2600K + that Asus mobo you chose.
$42 - G.Skill Value Series F3-10666CL9D-8GBNT 2 x 4GB DDR3 1333 RAM
$230 - eVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB 1GB PCI-E Video Card
$111 - Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SSD
$65 - Hitachi Desktar 7K1000.D HDS721010DLE630 1TB SATA 6.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$73 - Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W PSU
$70 - Lian Li Lancool PC-K58 ATX Case
$100 - Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit OEM
-----
Total: $1016 shipped

In case you're wondering, that Hitachi drive is one of the fastest consumer drives out there. So the $20 more for it over a 500GB drive is well worth it.
That looks great, thanks. On the RAM, is it worth it to get 1600 ram, or is that really irrelevant? Something like this? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...hBargains-_-NA-_-NA-_-NA&Item=N82E16820231461
 
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I have noticed in reviews that DDR3 1600 CL9 is the same as DDR3 1333 CL7. Probably cause its the same ram, but even if you go DDR3 1333 CL9, you might lose a FPS in gaming or so. Doesnt overly matter

Now I havent built a PC in years (ordered mine tonight), but before when I did, when you ordered OEM software, you had to order a 3-1/4 floppy or DVDRW etc. Some form of drive with it. Is that not the case anymore?
 
Now I havent built a PC in years (ordered mine tonight), but before when I did, when you ordered OEM software, you had to order a 3-1/4 floppy or DVDRW etc. Some form of drive with it. Is that not the case anymore?

No you just need a DVD burner and maybe a USB drive with the motherboard's storage controller drivers in case Windows 7 doesn't recognize your motherboard's storage controller. Though usually you're fine with out that USB drive.
 
Now I havent built a PC in years (ordered mine tonight), but before when I did, when you ordered OEM software, you had to order a 3-1/4 floppy or DVDRW etc. Some form of drive with it. Is that not the case anymore?

They don't do much to enforce the "OEM" aspect of the software requirement - I remember what you are talking about when you had to order some hardware with it though.
 
They don't do much to enforce the "OEM" aspect of the software requirement - I remember what you are talking about when you had to order some hardware with it though.

And legitimately, the builder is not supposed to keep a PC that has had OEM copies of Windows installed for his/her own personal use. Instead, he/she is supposed to resell that PC to someone else - and then, the system builder is responsible for providing technical support to the new owner of the PC.
 
I wouldn't reuse the PSU.

What case will you be reusing?

No. The GTX 560 TI 2GB is overpriced.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119068 is my case. Could you expound a bit on why I can't use that PSU? I bought it when my last one failed, and it's been quite solid (granted in my old system), but isn't it supposedly SLI capable? Why wouldn't it work for a single card solution?

As for the GPU, I picked the 2 gig version because 40 bucks extra seemed like a reasonable price to pay for extra vram. If I want to stay nvidia and am willing to spend around that much, what's a better option, or should I just stay with the one gig version?

Thanks for taking the time to respond, much appreciated.
 
As for the GPU, I picked the 2 gig version because 40 bucks extra seemed like a reasonable price to pay for extra vram. If I want to stay nvidia and am willing to spend around that much, what's a better option, or should I just stay with the one gig version?

The 2GB card isn't worth it because you will be GPU limited before you are VRAM limited with that card. If you want to get a better Nvidia card, you'd have to move up to a GTX 570.
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119068 is my case. Could you expound a bit on why I can't use that PSU? I bought it when my last one failed, and it's been quite solid (granted in my old system), but isn't it supposedly SLI capable? Why wouldn't it work for a single card solution?
Because it's a very low-quality PSU that has a high chance of dying and taking out your PC. Thats why I don't recommend reusing it unless you want a paperweight for a new PC. Especially if you want to use higher-end video cards like the HD 6950 2GB or GTX 570.
As for the GPU, I picked the 2 gig version because 40 bucks extra seemed like a reasonable price to pay for extra vram.
It isn't a reasonable price when the faster HD 6950 2GB costs the same as that GTX 560 TI 2GB.
If I want to stay nvidia and am willing to spend around that much, what's a better option,
The next best Nvidia option is the $330 GTX 570. The next best card in general after the GTX 560 Ti is this HD 6950 2GB:
$280 - XFX HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB PCI-E Video Card
or should I just stay with the one gig version?
If you don't want to spend $330 for the GTX 570 and want a good price to performance value, then yes the GTX 560 TI 1GB is your best bet.
 
Because it's a very low-quality PSU that has a high chance of dying and taking out your PC. Thats why I don't recommend reusing it unless you want a paperweight for a new PC. Especially if you want to use higher-end video cards like the HD 6950 2GB or GTX 570.

It isn't a reasonable price when the faster HD 6950 2GB costs the same as that GTX 560 TI 2GB.

The next best Nvidia option is the $330 GTX 570. The next best card in general after the GTX 560 Ti is this HD 6950 2GB:
$280 - XFX HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB PCI-E Video Card

If you don't want to spend $330 for the GTX 570 and want a good price to performance value, then yes the GTX 560 TI 1GB is your best bet.
Great info, thanks. Not having put together a pc or paid much attention for a few years, there is a lot to learn.
 
Great info, thanks. Not having put together a pc or paid much attention for a few years, there is a lot to learn.

No prob.

Oh and I recommend getting a new case as well. That Coolermaster case doesn't provide enough cooling for modern hardware. Especially for the hot-running GTX 560 Ti.
 

The problem with that case is that it does not provide anywhere near sufficient airflow for anything modern: Its intake consists of only one single 80mm fan. Couple that with a 120mm rear exhaust fan, and you'd end up with a dust vacuum that overheats all too easily. You'll need to be really good at intricate metalwork (namely, cutting out the front fan mount so that it can accommodate a 120mm or 140mm fan instead of the stock 80mm fan fan that the opening and mount is restricted to) in order to adapt that case for use with modern heat-producing components.
 
The problem with that case is that it does not provide anywhere near sufficient airflow for anything modern: Its intake consists of only one single 80mm fan. Couple that with a 120mm rear exhaust fan, and you'd end up with a dust vacuum that overheats all too easily. You'll need to be really good at intricate metalwork (namely, cutting out the front fan mount so that it can accommodate a 120mm or 140mm fan instead of the stock 80mm fan fan that the opening and mount is restricted to) in order to adapt that case for use with modern heat-producing components.

Thanks for the advice. Going to go with a case and new psu as recommended. I assume dany's recommended case provides sufficient airflow as described in your post?

edit: also, I may be out on the microcenter deal, and would be just going with an i2500k from newegg, but with which mobo? Thinking of sticking to the one in my op, but is there a better option out there that I could save money on? Don't ever plan on SLI. HDMI would be nice.
 
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Thanks for the advice. Going to go with a case and new psu as recommended. I assume dany's recommended case provides sufficient airflow as described in your post?
Yes. Otherwise I wouldn't be recommending it :D

edit: also, I may be out on the microcenter deal,
Why?
would be just going with an i2500k from newegg, but with which mobo? Thinking of sticking to the one in my op, but is there a better option out there that I could save money on? Don't ever plan on SLI. HDMI would be nice.

If you do have to buy the mobo from Newegg, I'd recommend this mobo instead:
$145 - MSI P67A-GD55 Intel P67 ATX Motherboard

It's a significantly better value than that Asus mobo. But if you want a cheaper mobo, read this Bit-Tech review
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/motherboards/2011/07/14/gigabyte-ga-z68a-d3h-b3-review/1

Then decide if that Gigabyte mobo will fit your needs just fine:
$120 - Gigabyte GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 Intel Z68 ATX Motherboard
 
Keep in mind BF3 uses more than 1GB at 1080p. If you can stretch your budget, get a 1280GB GTX 570 or 2GB 6950.
 
Keep in mind BF3 uses more than 1GB at 1080p. If you can stretch your budget, get a 1280GB GTX 570 or 2GB 6950.
That's one of the reasons I was looking at the 560 2gb, but that sounds like not a great idea.
Yes. Otherwise I wouldn't be recommending it :D


Why?


If you do have to buy the mobo from Newegg, I'd recommend this mobo instead:
$145 - MSI P67A-GD55 Intel P67 ATX Motherboard

It's a significantly better value than that Asus mobo. But if you want a cheaper mobo, read this Bit-Tech review
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/motherboards/2011/07/14/gigabyte-ga-z68a-d3h-b3-review/1

Then decide if that Gigabyte mobo will fit your needs just fine:
$120 - Gigabyte GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 Intel Z68 ATX Motherboard
Didn't mean to insult you there, just trying to learn :)
I'm not going to go with Microcenter deal, because I'm about 1.5 hours away and I won't be driving there anytime soon, so gas + tax makes it a wash or worse value really. However, if I am going there anyway sometime soon, I'll be changing my mind and picking them up from MC.

Will read the review, thanks for the links and continued answers.
 
I'm not going to go with Microcenter deal, because I'm about 1.5 hours away and I won't be driving there anytime soon, so gas + tax makes it a wash or worse value really. However, if I am going there anyway sometime soon, I'll be changing my mind and picking them up from MC. .
When you said close, I thought you meant like 20 to 30 minutes away :) All right, fair enough.

Will read the review, thanks for the links and continued answers.
No prob.
 
When you said close, I thought you meant like 20 to 30 minutes away :) All right, fair enough.


No prob.

Well, close in that I get up there once a month or so, but no reason on the horizon to go, and I'd rather build in the next few weeks, so it's probably best just to buy it all online for the tax savings overall. :)
 
Update - building tonight, parts arrived. Thanks for the assistance Dany and everyone else. I went with pretty much everything you suggested. I did drop the SSD out, bought a new 24 inch monitor instead, and went with a 570 GTX (wouldn't have done that, but I got it new in box for 220 :D)
Now on to the build. Hope I don't screw this up :rolleyes:
 
Good luck with the build!

Well, the build went extremely well. Other than the failed hard drive :( The hitachi was a bust as soon as the windows install accessing began. Massive clicking and then 2 hours for a 2% install :(
 
Well, the build went extremely well. Other than the failed hard drive :( The hitachi was a bust as soon as the windows install accessing began. Massive clicking and then 2 hours for a 2% install :(

thats what i hate about first batches. :mad: so while i'll bite for a drive from the first batch, i'll most likely not use it in any critical manner (main hdd, raid array, etc).
 
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