Everex XT5000T Support thread

Re: the hair dryer, besides the warnings I made in my previous post:
The hair dryer certainly wont put out a high enough temperature (or else it would be a heat gun, not for blow drying human hair)
Here's a little something to corroborate this:

Heat gun Vs. Hair Dryer
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=680938

Dude lead free solder has a melting point of around 220 degrees celcius.. thats equivalent to about 400 degrees farenheit.
Theres not a hairdryer in the world that gets that hot.. cause think about it. Whats it meant for?? TO DRY YOUR HAIR! If it was 400 degrees your hair would get all kinds of screwed up...
Point is, a hairdryer does not get hot enough to even get NEAR a reflow. An oven is also a bad idea, but its better than a hairdryer!!!
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And finally, from the OP:
so the hair dryer fix worked for about 40 hours then e74'd again, i was accually very happy because ive had nothin to do(no job) and i am more entertained by fixing xboxs then actually playing them, im sure that wears off. but anyways i took out the overpowered heatgun(850f) and cooked the motherboard after some careful aluminum foil prep and it fixed my e74, i also did this to a friends broken 360 which had been tortured by the towel trick probably close to 100 times. it was so bad that there when there was green lights the video was all black with small pink squares everywhere. but ya it fixed his too.
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So heat gun, cardboard wrapped with aluminum foil with a small square cutout the size of the GPU to concentrate the heat on it only, is the best and most guaranteed way to go :D

However, I've now seen other tricks :D

The 200W thermal bulb trick
on HPtx1000 (also with defective Nvidia GPU) :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctHTF3oNdxI

Very well done! But the way I did my in-house bake method, I didn't have to rip the laptop open and down to pieces just to get the heatsink off the GPU to do this.. Only have to open back-panel to use my method, and if it doesn't work, you can always try the heatgun/bulb method :D

Edit:
One clever commentor on the youtube vid above did something quite similar, but the HP tx1000 owners are luckier, cuz they can remove the CPU/GPU heatsink with only taking off the backpanel... in our case we have to get the motherboard completely out of hte case before being able to detach the GPU heatsink... But it's a good idea anyway, so that you can slap some AS5 or some good silver based thermal paste on the GPU before reattaching the heat sink on it :)

I wasn't too keen on firing all that heat at my mobo, so I tried turning on the laptop without the heat sink attached, then reassembled, and what do you know, it worked, same procedure only I didn't need to use my heat gun.
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Sooooooooo were are we supposed to get our drivers now? Can anyone share the file with me? I've looked everywhere and every link shoots me over to the non working everex internet site! I just need the sound driver...
 
The carbon filter can be cleaned with simple running water then left to dry. I've done it hundreds of times when I had aquariums. No need to discard it. It can probably be vacuumed cleaned or blown clean with compressed air. But they are inexpensive even if you choose to continually replace.It probably breathes a bit heavier than the mesh but if at all will interrupt airflow minimally.
You could probably remove the covers and wedge the filter cut to size in without any damage. Or hillbilly duct tape it to the bottom.:cool: Remember someone filled the case with glue/epoxy resin and it still worked. I even remember seeing it for sale possibly here.
Someone on the other board wrapped the heat pipe in copper wire and significantly reduced his temps. If the wire is dispersing heat from the heat pipe to reduce his temps then heat fins would be more effective. Wire would take longer to cool than fins and fins would allow more surface area to dissipate heat from as well as cool.The fan is sucking air through the vent at present any excess heat from the fins would follow that already existing route.
From the same post about the hair dryer
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=680938
ya maybe, but the motherboard was so damn hot by the time i took the hairdryer off of it that i was unable to touch it with my bare hand for minute or so and im pretty sure the heat traps under those chips so i can only imagine how hot they got with direct heat for 2 minutes each. another thought is that the air from hair dryer is blowing a lot faster then a heat gun, i think it would be interesting to use a thermometer to see how hot a hair dryer can actually heat up solder but i dont think i have a thermometer to test this. i see where ur coming from though if my 360 e74s again then ill post it so u can say i told u so, but if it doesnt get hot enough then no harm no foul right. im sketched out by the whole oven thing cuz i dont see how u can get reflow on the chips connections while keeping the rest of the board isolated from the heat if its sitting in an oven, if u know the answer to this please explain

o ya i forgot to point out that hair does not conduct heat anything like solder does so to compare the 2 is kinda ridiculous. i just thought of something ill see if my temp gauge for my gas rc car can read temps that hot and if it does then ill see how hot i can get the sensor with a blow dryer and get back to u
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!
2009 - Everex closes its doors and announces that it will liquidate its assets
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:(
I'm going to go cry now..
Hugging my two awsome XT5000T laptops!
Damn you Dell/HP/Sony damn you to hell I say!

Chants: "Ever for Excellence!" "Ever for Excellence!" "Ever for Excellence!" Everex!
 
Another option for drivers if desperate is to use the drivers for the Fujitsu Siemens Amilo Xa1526 for the XT5000t or the Fujitsu Siemens Amilo Xa2528 for the XT5300t.
 
I am looking for a dealer who sells the Lithium Ion Battery for the Everex StepNote XT5000T.

Do not have ID number for battery.

Information will be appreciated.
 
TANWare said:
My page is going nowhere, I've had the server for 4 years now and have way more spare bandwidth than it needs................
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You should put some google ads/Adsense on there so people can start clicking them for courtesy and whatever that generates would give you a little something to pay towards your hosting fees :D

mshapiro3 said:
I am looking for a dealer who sells the Lithium Ion Battery for the Everex StepNote XT5000T.

Do not have ID number for battery.

Information will be appreciated.
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Or you can buy a kit, and higher quality batteries and open the battery pack and build your own extended-life battery, or have an electrician do it for you if you afraid to ruin the battery pack when opening it, or buy a dead one off ebay or something to open it and put new batteries in it :D
 
Thank you. Had never thought of this solution. I will continue my search for a dealer and if I cannot find one, will seriously consider doing your suggestion.
 
jasmineaura said:
You should put some google ads/Adsense on there so people can start clicking them for courtesy and whatever that generates would give you a little something to pay towards your hosting fees :D
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I always have a server. Have had one through one service or another for years. Server fees, read virtual server fees, are fairly reasonable. Ther is like a 1500 Gb bandwidth there per month and that will never get used with the limited files I carry there. I usually am at about 20-30 Gb per mo..............
 
heero said:
Hey guys - my everex xt5000t mobo, gfx card, or cpu died after 2 solid years of ownership. I have dismantled the computer so if you need any parts hit me up because I have them ALL.
including:
(1x) Stock 100GB HDD
(1x) 120GB 7200 RPM HDD
(2x) Sticks of 1GB DDR2 RAM (one stock and one aftermarket PNY)
(1x) Everex xt5000t battery (would make a great cheap backup battery)
(1x) Power Adapter
(1x) CDRW/DVD Drive (Stock)
(1x) Full Keyboard without any missing keys
(1x) Full laptop enclosure with everything intact including a WORKING Monitor.
-Thats right a full working screen - if any of you need to replace the screen on your computer i have it here at a far lower price than anyone.
-All Heatsinks
-All Fans
-Everything

Just trying to salvage some $ out of her to invest into a new macbook or toshiba. My loss is your gain.

for pictures or requests just email me at [email protected] and i will reply promptly..
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mshaprio3, might try contacting this fellow. Although not a new battery it might get you by for the time being if he has not sold it.
 
Just a small update

I thought fellow Linux users on the XT5000T would appreciate hearing about this.

I made a patch against PHCTool-0.5.2-2 (front-end to phc-k8 module for controlling VIDs (and optionally intermediate FIDs), similar to RMClock in windows) to support the Turion64 X2 TL-xx (TL-50 through TL-64 etc..) and support direct transitions (relaxed version of AMD's official P-state transitions)

It should be integrated in the next version of PHCTool, hopefully soon, but if you like to check it out, download and install phc-k8-0.4.1 (very easy), and download phctool-0.5.2-2 and get my patch from: http://www.linux-phc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=111&start=0

Here are some screenshots of the added functionality :)

Infos
2a80mtc.png


Voltages
24on2tx.png


Analysis (MSR Polling):
2lj6qkl.png


Infos - Direct Transitions enabled and used
5a5579.png


Voltages - Direct Transitions enabled and used (also shows difference from the calculated "defaults")
zycc37.png


Cheers
 
So my toothpicks method and heating up the GPU to 100C while running hot for 2 hours did not do the trick... It died again yesterday..

After I did some more reading, now I see why many who used the lightbulb trick - from the HP TX1000 youtube video I linked earlier - (and some others who used hair driers) only got a temporary fix for 1-3 weeks, while others didn't get it fixed at all, not even for 1 day...
If you had also followed the video carefully, you'll notice that the guy doing the bulb trick was using a halogen bulb, not a incandescent bulb, and recommended to use 150W to 200W bulb (why? I will elaborate later), and he exposed the lamp on the opposite site of the motherboard, not the side where u can see the GPU, but on the reverse side, where the GPU Chip solder connections are visible on the board, and also mentioned that he was going to FLIP the motherboard over afterwards and use a towel (didn't show clearly in the dark), to PRESS the GPU DOWN into the motherboard...

And now I know how the technician from thailand claimed he fixed the GPU, and another (disabled) technician from the phillipines on the comments from the said video also demonstrated how he fixed it, the proper way:

I'm not satisfied with this kind of job because the problem will soon come back because of the poor contact between GPU chip and the motherboard so I used some soldering trick. I'm a freelance technician in the Philippines and this is my 1st laptop repair. unfortunately I have some difficulties because
of my spinal cord problem, I have disability in my upper limbs. You check my own video repair with this kind of problem.
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The reasoning:
The GPU is soldered to the mainboard using "Lead-Free Solder"

From empfasis, a publication by the National Electronics Manufacturing Center of Excellence:
Lead-free soldering process audit
The first major difference between tin lead (SnPb) and lead free soldering is the melting temperature. The majority of lead free solders require higher melting temperatures (Table 4-1); therefore, the soldering processes must have sufficient heating capacity to solder the assemblies without damaging the hardware.
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Tin lead (SnPb) has a melting temperature of 183 degrees Celsius
Lead free soldering (many different types) have melting temperatures ranging between 215 and 280 degrees Celsius!! (that's ~420 to 536 Fahrenheit)...

Why a hairdryer, oven baking, incandescent bulbs don't work at all, or work for a few weeks then break?
Simply because the lead-free soldering melting temperature is never reached with any conventional oven, let alone a hair dryer, or an incandescent bulb...
- With baking in oven at 400F, you may or may not get a bit close to temperature needed for a reflow, but not a complete reflow to make a permanent and proper fix... Also, exposing the whole motherboard to such high temperatures will cause a whole lot of other issues, and is not really guaranteed to "fix" the problem permanently or even semi-permanently..
- Hair Dryer: Safety cut-off switch - Your scalp can be burned by temperatures more than 140 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately 60 degrees Celsius) [source: Hardin]. To ensure that the air coming out of the barrel never nears this temperature, hair dryers have some type of heat sensor that trips the circuit and shuts off the motor when the temperature rises too much. Many hair dryers rely on a simple bimetallic strip as a cut off switch. For further protection against overheating and catching fire, there is often a thermal fuse included in the heating element circuit. This fuse will blow and break the circuit if the temperature and current are excessively high. Source: HowStuffWorks

What the guy with the 200W bulb did is use a HALOGEN bulb, not an incandescent (halogen runs much hotter), and he concentrated the heat to the correct side of the main board (the back side where the GPU is soldered), using a sheet of cardboard, with small square cutout the size of the GPU, and the surrounding surface area of the cardboard covered in aluminum foil to radiate the ambient heat away from the mainboard, and only letting the heat in through that little square cut out... A cheapo thermal-shield and thermal-concentrator, and a little insurance for the remains of your motherboard :D

From: http://aema.alberta.ca/documents/fco/short-articles.doc (View as HTML)
A 300-watt tubular halogen bulb can reach 480 degrees Celsius (900 degrees Fahrenheit) and is capable of frying an egg in three minutes. A 500-watt bulb uses more energy and can reach nearly 590 degrees Celsius (1,100 degrees Fahrenheit)—roughly three-and-a-half times the temperature of a typical
150-watt incandescent bulb, and four-and-a-half-times that of a 75-watt incandescent bulb.
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If doing hand soldering (using soldering gun):
Hand soldering processes
Even for hand soldering, the processing differences between tin lead and lead free must be considered. The solder tip must be adjusted to the higher temperatures required. For lead free solders, the EMPF found that the solder tip temperature needed to be set between 343°C / 650°F and 371°C / 700°F as opposed to 315°C / 599°F for tin lead solders. Temperatures higher than 398°C / 750°F were considered unnecessary for most hand soldering applications.

Because of the higher processing temperatures, components and boards must be baked out prior to soldering. Studies show that components increase moisture sensitivity by 2 levels, based on IPC J-STD-020 guidelines. Bake out insures that moisture is driven out prior to processing. Entrapped moisture is the root cause of component and board delamination and popcorning. The EMPF determined that boards should be preheated between 100°C and 125°C in order to reduce thermal shock and prevent pad lifting.
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If using a heat gun (280C - 320C should do the trick):
FOR PROPER TECHNIQUE, MUST SEE 2-MINUTE VIDEO, by kurapiket from phillipines
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqumzyLybrg&feature=related

Precautions:
Rework and repair processes
The EMPF discovered that most rework and repair stations are capable of meeting the higher processing temperatures required for lead free solders. As with tin lead, controlling the lead free thermal profile during the rework and repair process is critical to the process output. One needs to be aware of several dangers in this process:

• Too high a ramp could thermally shock the board. This could cause the board to measle and delaminate.
• Too high a ramp rate could damage the components. Moisture trapped in the components may delaminate, “popcorn”.
• Excessive heat could damage the solder joints next to the component being reworked.
• Components may be exposed to excessive heat, which could result in electrical damage.
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So I will try to get my hands on a heat-gun, or a 200-250Watt tubular halogen bulb.

If I couldn't, I will try to use TWO 150W incandescent bulbs that i have, simultaneously, since theoretically one 150W incandescent bulb would only put out about 160Celsius max, and I need 280-320C, so exposing one directly above, and one directly below the GPU (while using a thermal-shield made of cardboard and aluminum foil as demonstrated earlier, ON BOTH SIDES) for about 2 minutes at 2-3 inches away should do the trick, me thinks..

Need to also get my hands on some Arctic Silver or Arctic Ceramique thermal grease or thermal glue to replace the shitty stock "pad" on the GPU under the heatsink, otherwise will use smooth/flat folded piece of aluminum foil.. :D

Will report back later after I complete any of the above procedures... Wish me a semi-permanent fix :rolleyes:
 
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Is it possible for you to show the exact location that needs resoldered?
Other than Halogen try a heat lamp bulb.
Since you are looking to generate specific temps buy or borrow a baking thermometer. Test your various devices with it. I think just lying it flat and applying the heat should work, if not a pan of water should.
But it does look like two separate people resoldered. It can be done.
Can we now rename you Geek Goddess Jasmine?
 
Hey Guys, I had a quick question. I recently bought a new HD for my venerable XT5000T, since the original 100GB drive was slow, in my case, full, and annoyingly partitioned. (I was considering an SSD, but after research I decided that I should wait for a TRIM-supporting drive, and it will likely be about a third of the price of a new laptop, so I just got a bigger, faster, platter-based HD and hold on until I just buy a new laptop.)

In regards to the recovery disc; does anyone know what that's going to do for me? I want to install the OS and all programs on the new drive; and either not use the old drive, or reformat it and just use it to store media.

I'm just concerned that the recovery disc might be an image of the old drive or something instead of just an OS disc, and I might have issues with partitions or something. Anyone use the disc before?

Once I dig it up I'll check it out for myself, but I'm stuck at work and was hoping someone had some insight.

Thanks!
 
couple of options for you.

1) To clone your original drive over to the new drive. This makes an identical copy of your existing drive.

2) Reinstall on the new drive using the recovery disc. This will take the drive back to original status, ie just like pulling the machine out of the box and turning it on for the first time.
 
Thanks Andy.

One of my concerns is that I want to get rid of the multiple partitions; which is how the drive came when I first got it. (a single 100GB drive in two equal partitions appearing under two drive letters)

Can I merge the partitions with Drive Management under Vista? And then image that to the new HD? I guess then I bypass the recovery disc totally. :)
 
I know I did that; used the recovery disk and then merged the partitions with the tools in Vista. Forgot how and the process was a bit convoluted and multi-stepped, nor 'official' in anyway. I just messed around till I got it right, but since it was a fresh install and I had everything backed up I figured I wasn't risking anything.

But then a couple of months later the OS crashed. No idea if its related.
 
Yes, you can merge the 2 partitions under "disk management" in Vista. If I remember correclty you first need to delete the last partition, then extend the OS partition.

Actually there should be 3 partitions,
1) a hidden recovery partition
2) an OS partition with Vista installed on it
3) an empty partition.

The hidden recovery partition cannot be removed under disk management in Vista, It will take something like Gpart to eliminate it.

If you use your recovery disk for a fresh install on the new drive it will create the same partitions as your old drive had. Should be 3.

If you do not want to reinstall all of your programs again then your best bet is to clone.
 
I mentioned in my prior post that a temperature between 280C - 320C should do the trick... Now I'm not 100% sure if that much is needed for resoldering.. Maybe "desoldering" but not for resoldering...

I believe 260C-280C should be sufficient, per this long thread on the IBM T40's mobo's failed GPU's reflow instructions:
http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=57021&start=90

And on a side note, a very cool video of a BGA Chip reballing :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&hl=en-GB&v=JB1InDsWCjQ&feature=related
 
Hey all -

Just wanted to throw in my thanks to all of you. I've been reading this thread since day 1, waaaaay back, just never had much to add. First started reading it when I was researching the XT5000T to buy off Newegg.

Specifically thanks to TANWare for that file mirror; you are a lifesaver my man.

My XT5000T is still running strong. I upgraded to a TL-56 on the cheap, and added a second 120gb HD, and am now up to 3gb of ram. I removed the little screen on the inside of the bottom cover a while back to improve airflow. Not something I can really gauge, but it seemed ridiculous.

I've had Vista, Windows 7 Beta & RC, Ubuntu (8.04, 8.10, 9.04) and XP on it, currently back to XP. Windows 7 RC tended to idle excessively hot (60-70*C??) whereas it sits at about 48*C CPU/58*C GPU in XP.

Couple of questions:
1 - After reading jasmine's latest posts, is the recommended option to replace the thermal pad/placeholder between the GPU heatsink and the CPU heatsink? Mine is still there, and I agree it's probably doing next to nothing, but just wanted to get a solid second opinion before yanking it and replacing with tinfoil or something similar (copper?)

2 - Does anyone have a particular opinion on a good cooling pad? I'm using a Belkin thing that is horribly undersized, but the fan blow almost directly on the intake, and it works...just not great. I've been eyeballing the Zalman NC-2000, but wanted to see if anyone else had experience with a solid solution.

Thanks again,
Ryan (graybandit)
 
Windows 7 video drives do not allow powermizer to work. Since the Video chip does not slow down the gpu idles much hotter.

The pad after the pipe here was replaced with ICD thermal paste. Works great too...........
 
graybandit said:
2 - Does anyone have a particular opinion on a good cooling pad? I'm using a Belkin thing that is horribly undersized, but the fan blow almost directly on the intake, and it works...just not great. I've been eyeballing the Zalman NC-2000, but wanted to see if anyone else had experience with a solid solution.

Thanks again,
Ryan (graybandit)
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I imagine you've seen my replies on the subject.

YellowSnow said:
I finally sprung for a nice cooler, the Zalman NC2000. I tried two cheapies and one was actually really nice but the Zalman made a noticeable difference when gaming. It's certainly not cheap though.

Here's an overview: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RU1Y-7xPjqQ
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YellowSnow said:
Alright, well I used Nvidia Monitor since it's already installed, but what sucks is it only logs the GPU and not the CPU. I played DiRT because my computer hates that game. I have to set it on the lowest settings and I can't play any tracks that have other players or the framerate is stupid slow. It does play pretty good on the rally courses though because there are no competitors to render.

Using the cooler, I saw a max of 88* and it played smooth. Without the cooler I saw a max of 92, but more importantly, the game stuttered in a few places (frame rate dropped to what appeared to be single digits for a couple seconds at a time), indicating that the CPU had cut back to 800Mhz to prevent overheating. I played the same track for both tests so I'd say that this is pretty good proof that the cooler does help. Also without the cooler, the temps varied a lot while with it, the temps stayed fairly steady. I do notice that the fan dies down at times and then kicks up at others. I have no explanation for this behavior. The fan needs to be as fast as possible when demanding this much from the computer.
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It's a whopping $59.49 + shipping right now but I saw that it had free shipping a month ago, so just $59.49 shipped. You might have newegg alert you if there's a price drop and they'll email you if it gets free shipping again.

By the way, I have the XT5300 with two HDD's (no RAID) and 4GB of RAM. It's still going strong, knock on wood. My only issue is that Flash videos kill it sometimes even though I have the newest notebook driver from Nvidia (which is out of Beta now, BTW).
 
Excellent. Once I get my student loan stuff set up, I'll probably spring for one.

What drivers are you using then? the XT5300T has an 8600, so I am not sure your will work for me...

I've got the Dox Customized 185.65 for XP from www.laptopvideo2go.com
 
Hey peeps,

I've had my XT5000T for a while now too. 2 years? Anyway, looking to get the most out of it as we all are here. When I saw that this computer has a 2nd hard drive port, I was pretty psyched. Anyway, I bought it, but never put a second hard drive in it. Then I got the idea one day that I could try to connect my external hard drive via that 2nd SATA port. I looked into buying a cable that would go from laptop sata (inverse of the normal desktop mobo connection) to esata- knowing that they are pin compatible. I couldn't find one, so I bought 2 cables, cut them in the middle and soldered them together.
esatacable4.jpg

Rest of photo album

The thing I need help with is that it doesn't work on my laptop. I tested it with my desktop (using a regular sata cable to connect it to the mobo) and my external drive, so I know that neither of them are the issue. I remember seeing an everex bios update for raid, does that apply to this situation? It doesn't seem like it to me from my understanding of raid.
When I first tried plugging in the external via esata on my laptop, the bios did see the disk. However, when I booted up WinXP Pro, it took a lot longer than normal, and didn't show up in My Computer or disk management. I also tried booting up Linux Mint 7 (Ubuntu 9.04). That only made it to a shell saying /dev/sda3 does not exist. So the laptop knows the hard drive wants to be there, but it can't make it happen. Has anyone had success with two hard drives of different sizes?

Ok, so that's that issue. Aside from that I'm having a problem with my wireless card. It seems to be broken so I am trying to get a replacement card to work. I tried an Atheros card (not exact same model as original unfortunately) but that didn't work. The driver would install, but the device would show up with the little yellow "!". It would give me the error "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". I also tried an Intel 4965AGN, because Vista users on here said they had had success with that card. Same issue. Drivers installed fine, but the connect utility says that there is no physical adapter installed. Also from reading this thread (don't get me wrong, I haven't read the whole thing) I know that the PCI express port is somehow tied in to the video card. IRQ something? Is there some magic formula for disabling/uninstalling the video and wireless cards to get them to install right?

Thanks for the help in advance. I don't think there is any other group of people that knows the answers to questions like these left anywhere else. :D
 
About the wireless card. You need to get the CMOS to reset. With te new card there it still sees the Atheros from the cmos so it is not assigning the proper resources. Turn it on and tghen hold the power button to turn it off before bios post. This tricks the system to thinking cmos failed and at next powerup it resets the cmos tables.
 
OK, tried holding the power button before it could POST, a few times. More than once it seemed to get stuck, when I wanted it to POST. Eventually, I think I got it to reset and then POST succesfully, but then GRUB gave me error 17 (I have WinXP and LinuxMint dual boot setup). I then tried booting with a Linux Live CD, but it would not work. Any ideas?
 
everex should be ashamed all these fixes that are needed for the laptop. i know its nvidia's fault mostly but to not support your product, pfff
 
Quick Update:

I did the Aluminum Foil fix for the graphics card heat pipe and applied some silver thermal paste for my TL-56. Temps stay rock steady at 61-64*C on the GPU when you're not doing anything 3D intensive, up to 82*C when under load. It cools off VERY quickly once it's not being stressed though. I think this can be improved with a better cooling pad. Once I get an NC-2000, I'll check back in.

Processor stays 48-54*C under normal usage, spikes to 74*C under load...UNLESS it is undervolted. With Maximal Performance profile under RMClock, I undervolt to 9x .900 V @ 1.8ghz (YMMV, I have a TL-56, non-stock) and it stays at 64*C under load!!

After 2 hours of Team Fortress 2 @ 1280x800, my temps were 64*C for both cores, and 78*C for the GPU. The system cooled down to 48*C on the cores and 61*C on the GPU after about 5 minutes.

This is much better than previous performance, especially the graphics heat. Currently, my system runs much cooler under normal usage, slightly cooler under stress, and cools down MUCH faster than stock. All told, the modifications were very easy and totally worth it.

Just my $.02!
 
I have my laptop for sale in the forums. Never had any issues with it. Upgraded to 2gb ram and running Win 7 RC.
 
MadAsHeck said:
I have my laptop for sale in the forums. Never had any issues with it. Upgraded to 2gb ram and running Win 7 RC.
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I've got a student loan going through next week I hope. If it's still up for grabs, I will PM you then :) I want another to experiment with.
 
graybandit said:
Excellent. Once I get my student loan stuff set up, I'll probably spring for one.

What drivers are you using then? the XT5300T has an 8600, so I am not sure your will work for me...

I've got the Dox Customized 185.65 for XP from www.laptopvideo2go.com
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't see this until now. I would say I'm using this driver: http://www.nvidia.com/object/notebook_winvista_win7_186.81_whql.html

But it seems they have a new version there so I'll have to upgrade tonight. Hopefully it will fix my crashing when watching flash videos issue.
 
Hi guys,

So today morning I was using my Everex then after a while the screen turned black and when I click the mouse or the keyboard to get out of what I presume to be asleep, nothing shows up, the screen is black, even though all the light indicators for the wireless, the battery all light up, and I could here the fan running. After hearing about this problem on previous XT5000T's I immediately manually shut off the laptop and turned it back on. It booted up nicely and I was able to get to the Vista login screen. Once I logged in I could see all these vertical lines on the screen and the computer freezing. I immediately turned off the laptop manually again. This time I took off the backpanel and put the open backpanel on my laptop cooler before turning on the laptop. So far it's been running fine. But my question is, is my laptop going the same way as the others with the XT5000T. I have read that other laptop users with a nVidia GPU are also having problems, the ones from HP (like the dv9000 with a GeForce Go 7600), Dell, Asus, etc. with the same issue, black screen, vertical lines, graphic corruption, especially given the fact that we know that and nVidia admitted to it that certain number of their GPUs (like their mobile GeForce 7 & 8 series) are defective. What precautions would you guys suggest? I would like to continue to use this laptop. And should I never game on this laptop ever anymore? :confused: I did heavy gaming up till about a month ago where the GPU temp would reach up to 100C. But I haven't hardly gamed or not even gamed at all on this laptop for the past month. Any suggestions on how I can increase my laptops life span? Thanks.
 
The problem seems to be more 'cold solder' joints forming due to poor connections and the stress of heating and cooling cycles. The reason baking works is that it heats up flux and helps repair the connections albeit temporarily.

I don't think there is a set way to guarantee prolonged life. It will eventually just fail. I would prepare a backup of your data.
 
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