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Everex XT5000T Support thread

WillyWanker said:
BUT THERE IS NO LINK!!!
Click to expand...

Woops, my bad.

If you look under that there is a spot labled: "BIOS (MB): RAID Utility software." Which doesn't even have a file name listed yet. Looks like they won't have the links posted up there until they have all of the software ready to support the RAID features that will be enabled w/ the BIOS update.
 
Most excellent news...they can take all the time they want to get the RAID drivers out as long as they come out before my 2 new Dell 7200 160gb sata drives get here next Wednesday :D
 
MajorDomo said:
Most excellent news...they can take all the time they want to get the RAID drivers out as long as they come out before my 2 new Dell 7200 160gb sata drives get here next Wednesday :D
Click to expand...

so u did get them, i'm so jealous :D
 
Yeah, I stuck it out even when my first thought was to cancel my order and reorder the $116 deal....glad I refused their kind offer to get my money back :p
 
What was the deal? I got two Seagate 7200.2 160's but I paid 326 for the two with shipping.
 
I believe they weren't much over $100/ea - smokin' deal if you needed/wanted it.

-bZj
 
This was the deal, but the price was originally $129 which dropped to $116 for a very short while and then it was gone....well back to the new lowered price as stated in the link. So final price was total of $258 + tax :cool:
 
Good deal, their pic is of the original Seagate logo on the drive as well. Remeber to remove the jumper oo but you will love these drives........:D
 
Hi all,
The saga of heat problems continues and I would like to hear from you if you have any ideas how to solve the issue.
So,
I managed to undervolt my CPU to 0.950V with RMClock. While gaming, this keeps the temperature of the core oscilating around 80C. Still warm, but no longer dangerous and it stopped with the stupid throttling. I was doing some rounds in TDU last night and noticed that after a while the graphics started to get choppy. I quit the program and checked the CPU temp, it was 82C. Than I started nTune and checked the GPU temp, it was 101C !!!!
Geeez, that is hot ! Do you know of any program that will undervolt the GPU and/or control the fan speed on it. Honestly, I got scared yesterday !
I should mention that I am still in So Dakota and the ambient themp in my non-ACed room is ca. 80 F.
Thanks,
DK
 
On another note. Just for fun I went to Dell website and configured a 17" Vostro with similar specs to XT and it ended up being $1038 + S&H. Yes, it would have the C2D and 8600GT, but it would cost $350 more than what I paid for XT in OM. For this money I can buy 2HDs, upgrade ram and buy a notebook cooler. Probably with money left. If I had $1500 to spend I would buy Gateway NX860XL, it has really nice specs and the price is good too.
My 2 cents
DK
 
There in lies the problem, control of the fan speed. There is one heat pipe cooling the cpu and gpu. as the gpu heats it reduces the efficacy to cool the cpu but the fan does not seem to respond from the gpu's temp.

I haven't found a way to conrol the fan yet but some suggestions are:

1.) if overclocking the GPU bring it back to stock.
2.) turn on wait for vsynch.
3.) turn down some graphic features.
4.) Find a room with AC
5.) use some compressed air to blow clean your heat pipe, dust can cause a real issue there.

also Everexx list's the spec on the vga as 105C max:

*TEST Specification Median Average
CPU 95.0 85.0 85.0
North Bridge 90.0 88.1 88.9
South Bridge 90.0 78.1 78.9
DRAM 85.0 75.0 75.8
VGA 105.0 91.2 92.0
V-RAM 125.0 86.3 87.1
HDD 60.0 44.6 45.4

Touch Pad 55.0 45.6 46.4
Keyboard 55.0 48.7 49.5
Inverter 55.0 55.0 55.8
Palm Rest 55.0 50.4 51.2
 
can someone post some screenshots or instructions on undervolting the CPU with RM clock..

I am trying to configure the app but i am not having any luck


Thanks
 
How is everex with warranty?

I bought 2 of these in apil and just opened them a month or so ago and already on one of them the "r" key requires an extra hard press to make an "r" and so does the left trackpad button.

I am really not that impressed.

I wonder if I should ask them about the windows refund at the same time.
 
maybe i missed it, but can someone post me a link to the version of RM clock that they are using please. thnx a lot.

btw, the vostro is single core and the 8600 does not "blow away" the 7600, it just a bit better. 3dmark is not an accurate measurement of gpu power, it favor dx10 gfx cards.
 
TANWare said:
There in lies the problem, control of the fan speed. There is one heat pipe cooling the cpu and gpu. as the gpu heats it reduces the efficacy to cool the cpu but the fan does not seem to respond from the gpu's temp.

I haven't found a way to conrol the fan yet but some suggestions are:

1.) if overclocking the GPU bring it back to stock.
2.) turn on wait for vsynch.
3.) turn down some graphic features.
4.) Find a room with AC
5.) use some compressed air to blow clean your heat pipe, dust can cause a real issue there.

also Everex list's the spec on the vga as 105C max:

*TEST Specification Median Average
CPU 95.0 85.0 85.0
North Bridge 90.0 88.1 88.9
South Bridge 90.0 78.1 78.9
DRAM 85.0 75.0 75.8
VGA 105.0 91.2 92.0
V-RAM 125.0 86.3 87.1
HDD 60.0 44.6 45.4

Touch Pad 55.0 45.6 46.4
Keyboard 55.0 48.7 49.5
Inverter 55.0 55.0 55.8
Palm Rest 55.0 50.4 51.2
Click to expand...
Well, all those things are valid, but at the moment I am sort of stuck in the middle of nowhere, and don't really have access to compressed air to blow the vent out. I even lifted the back of the computer to let some air under the chasis, but it does not seem to affect the heat. Maybe a laptop cooler would help, but I am not sure what they have in the SuperWalmart here. BTW I did not OC my GPU, with the modded drivers from laptopvideo2go.com I can't seem to be able to OC, it gives me "test failed" message.
I wish nTune had more control over the fan settings, right now it is all greyed out !
Thanks anyway,
DK
 
it wierd u guys have so much heat problems, i hat little to none! with no mods. no throttling even with tat loading
 
I only have a heat problem if I run Prime 95 on both cores. even then it takes a while to build up. With the stuff I do with the computer I'll never encounter the issue but I run RMClock for insurance and the fact I like to undervolt the cpu.

Undervolting saves power to the cpu and the fan runs less saving power as well. Reduced heat blowing on my mouse hand is nice as well. :D
 
lol, i like the heat on my mouse hand, my mouse hand always get reaaaaaaaaaalllllllyyyyy cold for some reason so i like the heat lool

im quite weird
 
BMWfreak said:
Well, all those things are valid, but at the moment I am sort of stuck in the middle of nowhere, and don't really have access to compressed air to blow the vent out. I even lifted the back of the computer to let some air under the chasis, but it does not seem to affect the heat. Maybe a laptop cooler would help, but I am not sure what they have in the SuperWalmart here. BTW I did not OC my GPU, with the modded drivers from laptopvideo2go.com I can't seem to be able to OC, it gives me "test failed" message.
I wish nTune had more control over the fan settings, right now it is all greyed out !
Thanks anyway,
DK
Click to expand...
im sure superwalmart had compressed air cans.

u dont have a regular house fan?
 
people with heat problem can do this little modding:
cut out a piece of metal of the same size and thickness of the thermal pad (a little thinner or thicker is ok) from an unused item in your house and replace the thermal pad with it. use a crimper to bend the heatpipe a little to make them fit if necessary, but you most likely wont need to. use some thermal grease in the junction to maximize contact area. Also, if you have access to soldering tools, fill the gap at the edges of the pad with some solder. it will maximize the amount of heat transfered because the junction is now all metal. and don't worry! tin-lead solder (commonly used to solder wires and computer circuit boards) forms a VERY weak bond with the metals. you can even pry it off with your finger nails if you ever need to take the heatsinks out to upgrade CPU etc (it's even easier than prying candle droplets off the desk)

modpp0.jpg

this will help to balance the temperatures between the CPU and GPU.

and just fyi, the crappy thermal pad from everex is NOT a heat conductive material. it's just there to support the heatpipe, and it creates very minimal to no heat conducting effect. i sometimes use them at work so i know


if you are a little more hardcore, do what i suggested earlier in this thread (replace the plastic cover with a metal one)
 
well that might explain why on ONLY graphic intensive games, such as various MMO's .....my laptop quite literally....just...powers...off after playing for a random amount of time. the keyboard is SUPER hot a lot of the times, meaning the gfx core probably hit over 100C easily..... @.@ WHYYYYYYY EVEREX...WHyyyyyyyyyyyyy
 
I finally pullled that memory cover and took a real hard look at what Everex has done here. It is much more complex than it first appears. Now I haven't pulled the clips or sinks yet, that will be my next step and tips I'll post once I get to the CPU replacement.

From what I can see the cover is line with a thin aluminum plate. this acts as a heat spreader. This first prevents hot spots and secondly radiates heat to the air circulating within the box.

This is why a full metal plate works so well, but it again though passively transfers/radiates heat back under the box. Some of this warm air gets back in but not so much as it detracts from the original benefit.

Now you have to remember hot air rises, This is the bigest reason the keyboard gets fairly warm in spots. Now the plate for the memory over the air inlet cutous has a metal grid. This inhibits air intake and when the fan really kicks in the restriction causes air draw from elsewhere. the bigest air leak then becomes the keyboard.

Problem here is the hot air is sitting on the keyboard. While we want some air draw here to keep the keyboard cool, keeping the cpu, northbridge and gpu cool in the first place will keep the keyboard cool.

Back to that metal grid. it is right over the GPU's heat sink and heat pipe connection. If you remove the grid more air will flow over these parts both in passivve and non passive modes of the fan.

The drawback is you won't be wanting to take it to the beach, then again were you going to anyway. If you already have the entire bottom open this is a much better option.

Now I've done this and with RMClock at idle on power on demand vcore .750 4x, 1.0 8x here is what I've noticed

1.) if no usage kicking in 8x the fan never kicks on where before it would creep to60C and kick on. sitting idle it hoves between 52-53C
2.) when the fan does need to kick in I can see it cool faster, I'd ahve to guess here but at least 20% faster watching the temps fall.
3.) The keybord seems to the touch at least no warmer if not slightly cooler. I know unscientific but I'm trying to relay my experince.

A suggestion if you do this, genlty pull the grid off, it is glued on. This way it isn't bent and if you don't like it then it is easy to get back in.

Edit: Ran prime95 for 30 minutes. usually at 10-15 minutes in I can see the vid drop to.8 with core temp and no rm clock. With the mod at 1024 ftt the cores both got to 81c and no throttling at all. once it ran the three itterations the ftt went to 896 and the cores to 77c but never a throttle........................
 
Pulled the screen off of mine sometime back not sure it really made a difference. Is plastic on mine. One thought I have had but have not gotten the chance to try it yet is an opening around the exhaust fan to draw in cooler air through the fan. Most laptops I have encountered are usually designed this way. The key would be to allow cooler air to enter the fan but at the same time be able to draw a decent amount of air through the original opening. I would like to try and make a mockup cover that has the original opening then an additional one over the fan, if that worked satisfactory then would modify the factory cover, just havent had the time to try it yet.

Andy
 
andy A said:
Pulled the screen off of mine sometime back not sure it really made a difference. Is plastic on mine. One thought I have had but have not gotten the chance to try it yet is an opening around the exhaust fan to draw in cooler air through the fan. Most laptops I have encountered are usually designed this way. The key would be to allow cooler air to enter the fan but at the same time be able to draw a decent amount of air through the original opening. I would like to try and make a mockup cover that has the original opening then an additional one over the fan, if that worked satisfactory then would modify the factory cover, just havent had the time to try it yet.

Andy
Click to expand...
if you make your customized cover plate, DONT make air inlet right above the fan. the idea is that the airflow has to be directed: cold air has to be drawn from somewhere else far away from the fan and cool other components before making its way to the fan. if you have a hole right above the fan, the fan will just draw cold air in from outside to cool the CPU heatpipe and wont draw hot air from the rest of the chassis out (in such case, as a result, the CPU heatsink would get cooler while the GPU, RAM, wireless card woud get hotter). if you still insist on make air inlet above the fan, at least keep that inlet small
 
B34ST1Y said:
well that might explain why on ONLY graphic intensive games, such as various MMO's .....my laptop quite literally....just...powers...off after playing for a random amount of time. the keyboard is SUPER hot a lot of the times, meaning the gfx core probably hit over 100C easily..... @.@ WHYYYYYYY EVEREX...WHyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Click to expand...
yes, you are correct. there is little correlation between the CPU and GPU's temperatures (sometimes i saw 50C for CPU and 102C for GPU) because the stock 'thermal pad' did not link the heatsinks of the two together well enough
 
If you guys are running the laptop as a stationary desktop replacement, why not just take the cover off? It solved all my thermal issues. Putting a laptop cooler pad underneath it with the cover off makes a huge difference in operating temps.
 
The_X said:
If you guys are running the laptop as a stationary desktop replacement, why not just take the cover off? It solved all my thermal issues. Putting a laptop cooler pad underneath it with the cover off makes a huge difference in operating temps.
Click to expand...

So does anyone have any viable suggestions for reducing the GPU heat that doesn't involve taking my laptop apart?
 
Are you afraid of pulling off 4 screws? You get what you pay for, sometimes cheaper things just take a little more effort to get working.
 
The_X said:
Are you afraid of pulling off 4 screws? You get what you pay for, sometimes cheaper things just take a little more effort to get working.
Click to expand...

It's kinda like suggesting that if your car overheats a bit you should take the hood off to increase airflow. Can it be done, sure. But is that something most people would find desireable/acceptable, no. They're gonna pay the money to take the car to the mechanic to figure out why it's overheating (say perhaps a bad/underrated thermostat).

I would rather not have to disassemble my laptop whenever I want to use it, then reassemble to take it on the go. Sorry, but it's just not a practical solution for me.
 
WillyWanker said:
It's kinda like suggesting that if your car overheats a bit you should take the hood off to increase airflow. Can it be done, sure. But is that something most people would find desireable/acceptable, no. They're gonna pay the money to take the car to the mechanic to figure out why it's overheating (say perhaps a bad/underrated thermostat).

I would rather not have to disassemble my laptop whenever I want to use it, then reassemble to take it on the go. Sorry, but it's just not a practical solution for me.
Click to expand...

Hi,
Thing is if you are on this site you are the mechanic! now there are multiple solutions here just pick the one that suits you. Agreed some are better than others but you have to decide what comprimise or hard core choice you will make.

Now in time someone may come up with an even better mod that cures all the ill's, for now it hasn't happened. It may just take the .65nm's and undervolting and good silver paste with some slight mods to totaly get an agreeable heat range.

You can't really pitch too much of a bitch either. most manufacturers underclock thier graphics cards etc to get the cooling into spec. for one I'm glad Everex didn't go this route as I'd rather fight the heat than an undeclocked irreplacable graphics card. So count your blessings and move on to what you need to do to get it they way you want it.
 
Hi,
Was wondering if anyone knew these things. My question is with the .90nm vs the .65nm if the core die will sit as high from the cpu? I am sure it probably will be smaller, meaning less contact with the heat pipe. If the hight is different this may cause a contact or preasure issue against the die.

Also since the die will most likely have less contact area I am wondering if this will be an issue as well. This especially worries me as the thermal Watts are listed the same as the .90's. Another issue may be the thermal limits. The .90's are lited to 95C, what will the .65's be?

I know this may be a topic for elsewhere but I was thinking of our machines and their requirements.
 
I know this isn't completely related to hardware but it took a while for me to find and so I figured someone else out there was looking too. Today I received my Lowepro Topolis 1300 framed notebook case. If any of you do a lot of traveling with your notebook this is almost a must for 45 bux on amazon or adorama. The reason I am posting here is because it took me a long time to find a laptop backpack that actually fit my Everex. This one has a metal frame and plenty of padding and fits all of my extra cables, drawing paper, and I even have a spot picked out for where my wacom will eventually go(if i keep out of debt). Anyway just thought you all might want to know. Also what would you guys recomend as a processor upgrade beings as the 1.6 iisn't cutting it with all my design software open.
 
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