current best air coolers

[hititnquitit]

You want the Frost Commander 140.

 

[oneils]

You bought 2 of what? Peerless assassin 120s?

What's the X version? But you are on a 8400 that is easy too cool anyway right?

I built two new rigs (with the 13600kf and 12600kf), each use the Peerless Assassin 120 SE.
The old rigs (both with the i5-8400) that they replaced had stock coolers in them. I replaced the stock coolers, finally, with the Hyper 212 Evo. The 212 in Canada is kinda expensive for what it is. Can range from $40 to $55. I only recently learned about the Peerless Thermalright Assassin X. I wish I knew about them before I bought the 212s for my old i5-8400 rigs.

edit: My bad its called the "Thermalright Assassin X" and not the "Peerless Assassin X." Sorry for the confusion.
edit: link https://www.amazon.ca/Thermalright-Assassin-Cooler-TL-C12CW-S-Bearing/dp/B0B8MGHHJT/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2J2ACE57NG3Y8&keywords=peerless+assassin+x&qid=1676403855&s=electronics&sprefix=peerless+assassin+,electronics,108&sr=1-11&th=1

 

[xDiVolatilX]

You want the Frost Commander 140.

Doesn't come in black RGB lul

 

[chameleoneel]

7 heatpipe Phantom Spirit is available in the US now. And its still low cost as ever!

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright...echnology/dp/B0BNH1W546?th=1&tag=hardfocom-20

 

[pendragon1]

just wait a week or two, it'll come.

 

[xDiVolatilX]

The phantom spirit is on amazon now under 7 heatpipes. I decided to stay on water though seeing as I need a waterblock for my 4090 to fit the sound card.

 

[pendragon1]

The phantom spirit is on amazon now under 7 heatpipes. I decided to stay on water though seeing as I need a waterblock for my 4090 to fit the sound card.

look up 2 posts

 

[Westwood]

Hah, that seven pipe one is the one I ordered last night. what are the chances. using it to cool the 5800X3D.

 

[Randall Stephens]

Hah, that seven pipe one is the one I ordered last night. what are the chances. using it to cool the 5800X3D.

it'll be fine. the run "hot" thing is usually people saying the CPU burns through piles of coal daily, like Legendary Gamer 's 13900K. The X3D "runs hot" because the cache prevents the heat from leaving the cores as quickly because it acts as an insulator.

 

[Westwood]

it'll be fine. the run "hot" thing is usually people saying the CPU burns through piles of coal daily, like Legendary Gamer 's 13900K. The X3D "runs hot" because the cache prevents the heat from leaving the cores as quickly because it acts as an insulator.

Yea, I've read it runs hot. In a full raid at maxed settings and 200+ fps, the hottest it got was 85º. Would like to try to knock that down a little bit. We'll see what happens when everything gets here.

 

[Legendary Gamer]

Yea, I've read it runs hot. In a full raid at maxed settings and 200+ fps, the hottest it got was 85º. Would like to try to knock that down a little bit. We'll see what happens when everything gets here.

85c isn't even that bad. With modern CPUs hitting 90c on a regular basis (like the 7000 series and the Intel stuff). You are perfectly safe out to 90c.

85 is common for the X3D parts.

 

[Westwood]

85c isn't even that bad. With modern CPUs hitting 90c on a regular basis (like the 7000 series and the Intel stuff). You are perfectly safe out to 90c.

85 is common for the X3D parts.

Yea, I was hoping to eek away a little more from the 90º mark. My understanding that's really the max you want. Its also winter time, so summer time when its really hot I'd like a little more wiggle room.

 

[Legendary Gamer]

Yea, I was hoping to eek away a little more from the 90º mark. My understanding that's really the max you want. Its also winter time, so summer time when its really hot I'd like a little more wiggle room.

That makes sense. Did you do any under volting with curve optimizer? That might be one of the best ways you can tweak the thermals so that the processor holds maximum boost clocks and runs cooler.

I would imagine to get this thing cool you would have to delid it and do direct CCD cooling.

 

[Westwood]

That makes sense. Did you do any under volting with curve optimizer? That might be one of the best ways you can tweak the thermals so that the processor holds maximum boost clocks and runs cooler.

I would imagine to get this thing cool you would have to delid it and do direct CCD cooling.

I understood, like, six words there. haha

 

[pendragon1]

I understood, like, six words there. haha

lower the voltage, ignore the rest. these things are running within spec up to 95c, its just not a cool as we would like.

 

[Legendary Gamer]

I understood, like, six words there. haha

Pretty sure this is the video I watched to do it to mine. It's totally worth it. Otherwise you are just leaving performance on the table unused.

 

[Westwood]

For now, I think I'll just stick with that seven pipe cooler and a bunch of fans. Start there and see what happens.

 

[Legendary Gamer]

For now, I think I'll just stick with that seven pipe cooler and a bunch of fans. Start there and see what happens.

In order to undervolt you don't have to change anything other than settings in software or BIOS. the video is worth the watch

 

[Westwood]

In order to undervolt you don't have to change anything other than settings in software or BIOS. the video is worth the watch

I'll check it out when I get home.

Last time I was in BIOS, I activated "game mode" or some crap and my PC wouldn't boot. Ended up having to unplug everything, remove the GPU, so I can access that little watch battery to reset the damned thing. I hate BIOS.

 

[Legendary Gamer]

I'll check it out when I get home.

Last time I was in BIOS, I activated "game mode" or some crap and my PC wouldn't boot. Ended up having to unplug everything, remove the GPU, so I can access that little watch battery to reset the damned thing. I hate BIOS.

On MSI, Game Mode introduces a mandatory 100 Mhz Overclock to all the cores on your CPU. It doesn't always work. You will be fine, that video is descriptive enough that I am confident you can get it done with out blowing your PC up.

And next time you "Hose" your BIOS, find the "Clear CMOS" pins or reset button on your motherboard and connect the pins with a jumper, your finger or a screwdriver and / or just press the dip switch. It will save you a shitload of time (you don't need to pull out the battery).

 

[Westwood]

On MSI, Game Mode introduces a mandatory 100 Mhz Overclock to all the cores on your CPU. It doesn't always work. You will be fine, that video is descriptive enough that I am confident you can get it done with out blowing your PC up.

And next time you "Hose" your BIOS, find the "Clear CMOS" pins or reset button on your motherboard and connect the pins with a jumper, your finger or a screwdriver and / or just press the dip switch. It will save you a shitload of time (you don't need to pull out the battery).

ya, I'm not connecting pins on the mobo with a screwdriver, haha.

computers are sort of out of my realm.

I can gap rings on a motor, set the backlash on a rear end, rebuild a transmission, and TIG weld the exhaust port on a 372XP. computers...ehhhhhh not quite my thing. I just plug things in where they need to plug in. I'm nervous as hell about just installing that new cooler I have coming in.

 

[hititnquitit]

ya, I'm not connecting pins on the mobo with a screwdriver, haha.

computers are sort of out of my realm.

I can gap rings on a motor, set the backlash on a rear end, rebuild a transmission, and TIG weld the exhaust port on a 372XP. computers...ehhhhhh not quite my thing. I just plug things in where they need to plug in. I'm nervous as hell about just installing that new cooler I have coming in.

Bah, if you can do cars your golden man!

 

[Legendary Gamer]

ya, I'm not connecting pins on the mobo with a screwdriver, haha.

computers are sort of out of my realm.

I can gap rings on a motor, set the backlash on a rear end, rebuild a transmission, and TIG weld the exhaust port on a 372XP. computers...ehhhhhh not quite my thing. I just plug things in where they need to plug in. I'm nervous as hell about just installing that new cooler I have coming in.

Then use your tongue, that will work too.

But as hititnquitit says, the PC stuff should be super easy for you if you are as proficient as you are with cars and welding.

 

[Legendary Gamer]

It's pretty rare for ESD to roast a motherboard these days. The hardware is pretty resilient. Your Clear CMOS jumper/button is the one thing on the Motherboard that you really need to use somewhat frequently while you are dialing in your system's performance. Some changes will prevent booting. It's not rocket science, it's just trial and error until it works amazingly well.

 

[Westwood]

ffs, I get nervous just taking the side panel off my case, haha. I guess I just don't do it enough. I'll build a PC about every ten years or so. In that time frame, it'll never move. Not a single wire gets unplugged. I'm always afraid that I'll damage the surface of a component or yank a wire wrong.

last week I completely dismantled the entire steering on my truck and rebuilt. all set and done, hopped on the freeway at 90mph just to make sure it was ok. thought nothing of it. heh

 

[Legendary Gamer]

ffs, I get nervous just taking the side panel off my case, haha. I guess I just don't do it enough. I'll build a PC about every ten years or so. In that time frame, it'll never move. Not a single wire gets unplugged. I'm always afraid that I'll damage the surface of a component or yank a wire wrong.

last week I completely dismantled the entire steering on my truck and rebuilt. all set and done, hopped on the freeway at 90mph just to make sure it was ok. thought nothing of it. heh

So, if you never want to touch the PC again... Until the next one, then do it right this time. We want you to have all the performance you can have on your rig.

You are worrying too much about the PC being complicated. Its a basic device with only a number of things that typically can go wrong: Motherboard, PSU, RAM or Storage. CPU can fail but it's quite a bit more rare. During the setup you need to be mindful to plug your mainboard into power, and provide the CPU with it's dedicated PCI-E Connectors. You need to get your RAM dialed in at the correct speeds, and your storage has to boot up and run stable. If you can achieve those basic tasks, you're in business.

If you can fix a car or a truck, you are vastly more capable than I am for undertaking the task of upgrading and fine tuning a PC.

 

[freeagentt]

FC140 is currently Thermalright’s best cooler. I can run my X3D with no fans on the cooler, no problem.

 

[pendragon1]

 

[freeagentt]

I've got the White PA120SE ARGB on my 5600X. Its a solid cooler. It handles it and my X3D with no problem. I love how tiny it is, I have an HR-09 Pro on the nvme right under the CPU, and that is the only cooler that I have that will let me do it. It struggles a bit with my 5900X when using 240/160/190 and a heavy all core load, but outside of that it is fine.

 

[vegeta535]

Noctua need to get their crap together. Surprising how it is in the middle of the pack now while still being the most expensive.

 

[NightReaver]

Noctua need to get their crap together. Surprising how it is in the middle of the pack now while still being the most expensive.

Noctua tax is real. That's the problem with name brands. You start to pay more and more for the name...

I know people will say "I've never had an issue with Noctua"...well I've bought everything from noctua and corsair to cheap 5$ rosewill ball bearing fans and neither have I.

 

[funkydmunky]

Noctua need to get their crap together. Surprising how it is in the middle of the pack now while still being the most expensive.

I agree somewhat but I think they still perform well in the extreem class such as 250W+. Problem is people usually go with a performance AIO for that.

 

[freeagentt]

As a Thermalright user, Noctua has needed to get their crap together for years.

 

[doyll]

What freeagent said. Not saying Noctua is bad, but their performance and reliability is extremely over-rated. There are many others with equal performance and noise levels, some even better. Only thing Noctua has that might be better than most competition is their customer support .. which most users never need or use.

Edit:
I noticed Thermalright now has many of their coolers and fan available on Amazon.co.uk!

 

[Peat Moss]

Has anyone tried or read any reviews about the Jonsbo?

https://www.newegg.com/JONSBO-HX7280-Air-Cooler-Series/p/13C-005F-00072

 

[pendragon1]

Has anyone tried or read any reviews about the Jonsbo?

https://www.newegg.com/JONSBO-HX7280-Air-Cooler-Series/p/13C-005F-00072

never even heard of it. looks decent but its pushing into noctua price territory...

 

[doyll]

Has anyone tried or read any reviews about the Jonsbo?

https://www.newegg.com/JONSBO-HX7280-Air-Cooler-Series/p/13C-005F-00072

Have you heard of Thermalright's Phantom Sprit 120 SE? It's 7x 6mm heatpipes and $39.90 on Amazon. I know of one that replaced D15 on 13600K with 4-6c lower temps at same noise level.
https://www.overclock.net/threads/t...-frost-tower-120.1802427/page-2#post-29158329

Amazon cooler link
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright...sprefix=phantom+spirit+120+se,aps,284&sr=1-24

 

[Ebernanut]

Have you heard of Thermalright's Phantom Sprit 120 SE? It's 7x 6mm heatpipes and $39.90 on Amazon. I know of one that replaced D15 on 13600K with 4-6c lower temps at same noise level.
https://www.overclock.net/threads/t...-frost-tower-120.1802427/page-2#post-29158329

Amazon cooler link
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-PS120SE-TL-C12B-Technilogy-Bearing/dp/B0BP2C4HP4/ref=sr_1_24?crid=TSMAYC01UATK&keywords=Phantom+Spirit+120+SE&qid=1679061633&rnid=2941120011&s=pc&sprefix=phantom+spirit+120+se,aps,284&sr=1-24

That's what I picked up recently and it seems to be working well on a 5800x3d. It keeps the cpu in the 65-72c range in the games I've tried it with so far and idles at about 35c, cinebench will ramp it up to mid to high 80s but it still doesn't quite hit 90c which is the throttle point. That's with MX-4 which isn't one of the top pastes anymore but I had it on hand and like it.

I couldn't find any reviews on it but it appears to basically be a Peerless Assassin 120se with an extra heat pipe, thermalright is even selling it on the same amazon page as the 7 heat pipe version.

 

[pendragon1]

Have you heard of Thermalright's Phantom Sprit 120 SE? It's 7x 6mm heatpipes and $39.90 on Amazon. I know of one that replaced D15 on 13600K with 4-6c lower temps at same noise level.
https://www.overclock.net/threads/t...-frost-tower-120.1802427/page-2#post-29158329

Amazon cooler link
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-PS120SE-TL-C12B-Technilogy-Bearing/dp/B0BP2C4HP4/ref=sr_1_24?crid=TSMAYC01UATK&keywords=Phantom+Spirit+120+SE&qid=1679061633&rnid=2941120011&s=pc&sprefix=phantom+spirit+120+se,aps,284&sr=1-24

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still havent been able to compare mine though(pa vs ps), dont have anything new enough to mount it to...

 

[doyll]

That's what I picked up recently and it seems to be working well on a 5800x3d. It keeps the cpu in the 65-72c range in the games I've tried it with so far and idles at about 35c, cinebench will ramp it up to mid to high 80s but it still doesn't quite hit 90c which is the throttle point. That's with MX-4 which isn't one of the top pastes anymore but I had it on hand and like it.

I couldn't find any reviews on it but it appears to basically be a Peerless Assassin 120se with an extra heat pipe, thermalright is even selling it on the same amazon page as the 7 heat pipe version.

I need to get one and have a play.

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still havent been able to compare mine though(pa vs ps), dont have anything new enough to mount it to...

I'm kinda in same place. My newish CPU is 3600 so not very hot.