Core2Duo E6300 & Gigabyte GA965P-DS3 Overclocking Problems

[Andyp33]

Need help please, I cant get it to run stable dll errors explorer errors & Blue screens playing Crysis.

MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)
Robust Graphics Booster___________ Auto
CPU Clock Ratio (Note)____________ 6
CPU Host Clock Control_ [Enabled]
CPU Host Frequency (MHz)__________ 400
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz)_______ 101
C.I.A. 2__________________________ [Disabled]
System Memory Multiplier (SPD)____ 2.0=1:1
DRAM Timing Selectable_______ SPD __ [Manual]
CAS Latency Time_____________ 4 ____
Dram RAS# to CAS# Delay______ 4 ____
Dram RAS# Precharge Delay_____4 ____
Precharge Delay (tRAS)________12 ____
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD)_______Auto _____
Rank Write to READ Delay______Auto _____
Write to Precharge Delay______Auto _____
Refresh to ACT Delay________42 ______
Read to Precharge Delay_______4 _____
Memory Performance Enhance__________ [Normal] or FAST dosn't make any difference

High Speed DRAM DLL Settings________ [Option 1]

System Voltage Control____ [Manual]
DDR2 OverVoltage Control__ [+0.40V] = 2.1 Volt. PATRIOT recommend 2.2 volt
PCI-E OverVoltage Control_ [+0.1V]
FSB OverVoltage Control___ [+0.1V]
(G)MCH OverVoltage Control [+0.1V]
CPU Voltage Control_______ 1.3675 = IS THIS ENOUGH VOLTAGE?

But I have noticed (AND THIS COULD BE IMPORTANT) that the voltage in CPU-Z fluctuates by over ONE Volt keeps going up and down?????

What am I doing wrong guys, I have tried different things like upping the muliplier dropping the FSB, the only thing I have not done is alter the voltages at the bottom here like the CPU I haven't taken it over 1.3675

Temps @ idle 57 @ load 68 (seems hot to me but I have a good HS&fan)

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks in advance......

 

[BillParrish]

2 things in order of importance (as I perceive it)

1)
Yes your temps are way too high for that modest OC even with the stock heatsink. If it uses the push pins, I can almost bet one is not seated fully. Fix this first. Do not try to re-push them in with the board in the case, the board/socket will flex and you risk damaging the solder contacts under the socket. As much as a pain it is, you need to either slide something under the board in the area of the socket (in USA a flat carpenters pencil works nicely) to support it while you reset the heatsink retention pins or take the board out and do a proper job. (it may be you have on case airflow, all I can do is take educated guess based on the information you provided /shrug, but those temps are way way high, repost again with coretemp readings) Completely remove the current setup by rotating the pins and wiggling the heatsink free. Rotate them back to the starting position before reinstalling.


Both your manual and the Gigabyte web site contain detailed instruction on how to install the heatsink, you have to push like hell to fully seat them in an X pattern, do not "go around the circle", thumb over thumb and push till it hurts and you hear a click. After all 4 done flip the board over and make sure the central black pin is extended even or above the whitish outer pieces and they all 4 are fully through the board and locked. If you take a minute and look closely at the back side you can see how they are intended to work/hold and can then easily see if one is not "right". Even if you think you know how to do it refresh yourself with the instructions unless you have installed many of these, the first one or two are tricky bastids and will try to take advantage of you.

2)

http://www.jeantech.com/600.htm

it thats your supply, offhand I don't like the fact that it does not give the combined power output and seems to be of the old style where a lot of the output is on the +5 making me think (despite its close to 40A 12V rating) it cant really put out 19A + 19A on the +12. Add that to the flaky CPU-z voltage jumping around really makes me wonder.

Per those specs
3.3V @ 32A is 105W
5V @ 60A is 300W
12V @ 19A is 228W x 2 = 456

so that is in total 861W disregard the minor -5V standby and the mostly now unused -12V on a 600W rated supply so the question is with the typical load on the 3.3 and +5 how much +12 can it really put out ?

Now all supplies are rated this way but they will include information on the combined output ratings on the label telling you what you could get out of the 12V rails with the other rails loaded. This one does not and so I immediately put it in my "junk" category. I am very picky, it might be an OK supply, be working fine, and give years of service, but I cannot find a review on the web that actually opened one up and tested it with an actual Load Tester.

Anywho, these two things, lack of accurate information as to the +12V current capacity under combined load, and the CPU-z reading, and toss in that you are only complaining about it when the GPU/video card is drawing a lot of power playing a game, makes me worry about that power supply. BUT FIX THE TEMPS FIRST.

I would put my Digital Volt Meter on an unused molex plug's +12 (yellow) lead and watch the voltage as I game.

You might want to load up Everest or Speedfan and enable the logging function to monitor voltages while you play. Note that some of these types of programs have trouble reading all the voltages correctly but if at idle whatever is labeled +12 is between 11v-12.5v the software has found the monitoring chip and is reading it correctly and can be trusted (well, mostly) to give fairly accurate readings. A drop of .1 or .2 V under heavy load is normal, but your 12V should no dip more than 5% to remain in spec, 11.4v to 12.6. Frankly if it dipped to 11.6V or under with your load I would be looking for a new supply that had better 12V rail specs.

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CPU-z voltage could be jumping due to thermal throttling attempting to occur as well. Further investigation is required but first and foremost get those CPU temps down. that thing should idle no more than 40C even with the stock cooler unless the room is very warm.

I really think it is your heatsink mounting and would worry about that first. it will cost nothing but some time to investigate and sort out.

 

[Andyp33]

WOW Thanks Bill

I must say Bill you know your stuff and many thanks for the effort that you have put in replying to my thread.

You might be right about the heatsink and fan I was not confident when I put it in as it was my first Core2Duo build almost a year now. here is my heatsink & fan:

http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/products/intelcooling/cfx00

I remember now I used their paste and should have used that tube of Artic Silver 5 I bought especialy for my builds. (you live and learn)

I bought that power supply from PCworld in a rush as my old PSU would not have been up to the job of feeding my power hungry 8800 gts. (you live and learn)

So how did you learn so much Bill?
By making expensive mistakes like me?

I should know better after all I have a CompTIA A+ Certification.
(shame on me hope my boss dosn't read this)

Once again Thanks BillParish.