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Copper Case

R

ronenvelarde

Limp Gawd
Joined
Oct 29, 2004
Messages
146
:eek: Im going to go ahead and weld up a copper frame for a case and skin it with burlwood but before I get started I want to make sure that there would be no problems or negatives to using copper for motherboard tray or any other parts. Any input would be appreciated.!Thankshalot

I am also planning to make burlwood drive faces.
 
im kinda wondering how your going to weld copper. thats the only proble i see.
 
Braze it, solder it....imagine you could even tig it (never tried tig)...but it's possible
 
u can use tig, but it looks better rivited or brazed, just depends if u can braze good
 
I can't think of any negatives to using copper, except for cost and strength. To get copper that's thick enough to be sturdy, it'll cost quite a bit. I would definately use rivets to hold the structure together.
 
get your copper from online metals.com... they have it in all shapes and sizes...
you won't be finding that sort of versatility at lowe's.
 
Copper is pretty soft, and prone to oxidation. Unless you find the right alloy, you'll likely wind up with a case that is easily damaged, and turns either green or other dark unslightly colors over time. Also, a copper case will be quite heavy unless made light enough that it will have no structural integrity. I think you'd find this a difficult project.
 
Isn't copper conductive? The first thought that came to mind was a short of some sort.
 
check out the aluminum foil case in the ugly case thread. it's buried in the case modding subforum somewhere.
 
Shorting will not be a problem since we use steel and aluminum for our computer chassis and the systems still work. Just make sure you use standoffs to mount the motherboard (common sense) and that you do not let the HDD controler board contact the copper...
 
and copper conducts heat really, really well... soldering is definitely called for here, you try to tig it, you're gonna melt the whole thing.
 
What if i use square tubing for the frame? Cut notches and then braze?


"turns either green or other dark unslightly colors over time"

Eww how can I stop this from happening? Any type of coatings I can use? Can copper be anodized?....
 
starhawk said:
and copper conducts heat really, really well... soldering is definitely called for here, you try to tig it, you're gonna melt the whole thing.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't it take a damn long time to heat up a joint to solder it? Put a torch on it and the heat is just going to go all over. It should work eventually, though.
 
Very true. Its going to be a sloow process. Copper will dissipate the heat very very fast and its a pain in tha ace.

Anyone know of any coatings for maintaining the shine on copper and protecting from oxidation?
 
ronenvelarde said:
What if i use square tubing for the frame? Cut notches and then braze?


"turns either green or other dark unslightly colors over time"

Eww how can I stop this from happening? Any type of coatings I can use? Can copper be anodized?....
Click to expand...

use ells... square tubing will bow in the middle almost imperceptibly.

and use rustoleum clear or something like that for the corrosion... tho many artists consider this to be a good thing... it looks nice.

no, copper cannot be anodized.
 
Brazing is when you weld with the same metal rigth? I saw Jesse James 'weld' copper with Copper strands he cut. Thats Brazing right?
 
1st Sgt. Burke said:
Brazing is when you weld with the same metal rigth? I saw Jesse James 'weld' copper with Copper strands he cut. Thats Brazing right?
Click to expand...

No, brazing uses dissimilar metals to form joins. For example, hand-crafted bicycles can use steel tubed frames lugged together; the tubes are brazed to the lugs with brass or silver.
 
I've seen shellac used to protect copper from oxidation, tho I imagine any clear coat that'll stick to it will work just as well.

The nice thing about shellac is that it's used on motor windings to keep them from shorting against the motor frame/housing, so it's got to be pretty much non-conductive. Might be a good thing around items that could easily short out. :cool:
 
Hmmm. Ill grab a piece of copper this weekend and spray water based lacquer that I use in my cabinet shop and then try some shellac and see how that works. I didnt know it was used on winding but that defenitely gives me an impression that it should work well. Ill work on it friday after work and take some pics. The nice thing about using lacquer is that is what I will use on the burlwood exterior.

The case is going to be very heavy. This is not a concern unless it goes over 20-25 pounds.

Thanks for all the feedback! all!
 
Nivram said:
I've seen shellac used to protect copper from oxidation, tho I imagine any clear coat that'll stick to it will work just as well.

The nice thing about shellac is that it's used on motor windings to keep them from shorting against the motor frame/housing, so it's got to be pretty much non-conductive. Might be a good thing around items that could easily short out. :cool:
Click to expand...

Not all clearcoat is made equal. Some of it is porous enough to allow air to come in contact with the metal. One of the reasons why they need to paint a car before clearcoating it (aside from the fact that a clearcoated car probably wouldn't sell) is to protect it from oxidizing. The clearcoat mainly protects the paint.
 
negative.

starhawk said:
and copper conducts heat really, really well... soldering is definitely called for here, you try to tig it, you're gonna melt the whole thing.
Click to expand...
 
Brazing is typically done with butt joints where a metal different than the base metal is sucked into the join by capillary action. It provides a remarkably strong bond.

1st Sgt. Burke said:
Brazing is when you weld with the same metal rigth? I saw Jesse James 'weld' copper with Copper strands he cut. Thats Brazing right?
Click to expand...
 
I coulda Sworn jesse said it was Brazing when he "welded" the copper tank w/ strands of copper he trimed....whatever. I liek Metal Fab I love monster garage, American Chopper etc.
 
Pretty much, if it's aluminum, steel, or stainless steel, it's welded (tho you CAN braze steel, but I'm not sure if aluminum is brazed?).

Copper, bronze & brass are brazed together, especially if you're joining dissimilar metals.

Hopefully that made it clear as mud?? LOL ;)
 
you can actaully weld copper, i've seen a couple guys do it. it is not easy, and there are not that many around that can do it correctly. I only personally know 1 well that can do it and he hammer welds copper seams when he does it, it can be done differently too, but it definately can be done.
 
someone actually already makes a copper case. Valuewave Daut or something. this was shown at Computex but.. other then that.. no idea where it's available or how much.

computex04.jpg
 
For the frame, something you may wish to consider doing would be to make the frame out of copper tubing (used in homes for plumbing, easy to get at home depot) and sweat-solder the tubing together using standard plumbing joints. This is really easy to do with the following materials:

1) a torch. Propane or map gas will do just fine. Figure ~$40 for a descent one at home depot with a peizo starter
2) tubing cutter. Under $15
3) copper tubing (duh) price depends on size and quantity
4) Solder. Under $10 for more than enough to do what you need to
5) flux. Probably around $7-8 for a small tub of it
6) sandpaper - necessary to rough up the areas where solder will be for strong joints. Cheap.
 
botboy said:
For the frame, something you may wish to consider doing would be to make the frame out of copper tubing (used in homes for plumbing, easy to get at home depot) and sweat-solder the tubing together using standard plumbing joints. This is really easy to do with the following materials:

1) a torch. Propane or map gas will do just fine. Figure ~$40 for a descent one at home depot with a peizo starter
2) tubing cutter. Under $15
3) copper tubing (duh) price depends on size and quantity
4) Solder. Under $10 for more than enough to do what you need to
5) flux. Probably around $7-8 for a small tub of it
6) sandpaper - necessary to rough up the areas where solder will be for strong joints. Cheap.
Click to expand...
The problem with that would be attaching the external panels to the tubing. It'd be possible, but a true pain in the ass. There would be brackets and mounts all over the place. It'd look much cleaner if it was don't with square tubing or angled pieces.
 
actually... if you have a drill press and some c-clamps, you can just drill through the copper and bolt the whole thing together.
 
I wonder if something like polyurethane will work ...

ronenvelarde said:
What if i use square tubing for the frame? Cut notches and then braze?


"turns either green or other dark unslightly colors over time"

Eww how can I stop this from happening? Any type of coatings I can use? Can copper be anodized?....
Click to expand...
 
OKANG said:
The problem with that would be attaching the external panels to the tubing. It'd be possible, but a true pain in the ass. There would be brackets and mounts all over the place. It'd look much cleaner if it was don't with square tubing or angled pieces.
Click to expand...

I have three thoughts on that one:

1) If you got the correct fittings you could probably sweat solder square tubing

2) If you got the panels completely lined up and C-clamped together, you could attach using solder on the corners (assuming square panels). Maybe not the strongest, but if you aren't going to abuse the case or move it much, probably wouldn't be a problem.

3) Otherwise, as starhawk said, C-clamp the panels to the tubing, drill holes, then bolt or riven them together.
 
The outside skin isnt going to be copper. Its going to be burlwood with copper trim. Damn the cost is getting pretty steep! Im already looking at over 200$ in material. Oh well Ive spent more on women that werent worth a penny. I am actually looking to use angle copper but am having a pain in the arse finding any and determining the thickness. This is the only missing piece right now so hopefully I can find it tommorow and get to brazing which is going to be slowww. Weight is also becoming an issue. Defenitely not portable. Considering how much the metal is costing I know im gonna whince with every mistake i make.
*crossing my fingers I find the angle copper tomorow* I'll be posting pics asap.

Piping would only solve the outside of the case. The inside needs to be framed as well. If i just use piping then attach sheet metal the cost for a good enough thickness is outrageous. I want the back of the motherboard to be accesible for airflow and looks. Basically the back of the motherboard will have bars going across whith holes tapped for mobo screws. This should make a nice view of teh back of the mobo which is usually overlooked. =]

especially with nice acrylic over it.
 
They dont have angle bar in copper. I am going to call them this morning and check maybe they just dont list it on their site.
 
Last time I checked, two dissimilar metals in contact with each other create a galvanic reaction (a battery)
 
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