Cooling Liquids??

G

generallee989

n00b
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Dec 27, 2011
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Hey All,

So im am going to be upgrading my system to the latest haswell and havent really messed with my loop in a couple of years(besides flushing/cleaning) and have been looking at running a different coolant.

Currently, I am running Feser 1 as thats what I started with a few years back.

I know using Distilled Water is always prefered(the best) but im not looking for that. I do not want to mess with a kill coil and biocyde.

What I am looking for is current data sheets of all the liquids and their performance.

I have been searching for several days for benchmarks or any of the sorts and was hoping someone might have links to tests and results for this.

Also, which ones break down faster and which last longer?

Thanks in advance!
 
I know you don't want to hear this, but........

distilled water and a single silver coil is all you need.

water never "breaks down"
All I use is a killcoil, in fact I've been using the same coil for 5 years. No problems.
I've never use a biocide.
I generally change out my fluid as best I can once a year or when I change hardware (which is at least yearly).

Unless you want some kind of color. Me I use black and white tubes, so I am fine with clear, pure water.:D
 
Just curious, why don't you want to "deal with a killcoil"? It's as simple as throwing it in the reservoir and never looking at it again. (I would switch it every now and then since it does seem to get used up, mine look rusted after a while). You are maybe going to see a 1C difference with some kind of other coolant, it's not worth the gunk they usually deposit on your blocks.
 
Nearly all coolants out there are water based. Therefore heat transfer is nearly identical. Additives like glycol usually deteriorate performance rather than enhancing it.

Water doesn't break down, but additives inside it can.

How is dropping a killcoil in a reservoir a hassle?
 
Sorry to say it... but you won't find much info because distilled water and a kill coil aare the best and the cheapest...
 
I appreciate all the responses but I shouldn't be scolded on why a kill coil is a hassle for me....

Simply put, i would have to reconfigure my setup to accomodate one. I have separation plates in my reservoir to reduce turbulance and would not allow the coil to be submerged...

I understand water is the best, as stated in the original post, so please dont say water.

I revert back to my original question.

I am looking for facts, benchmarks, and data sheets of the current liquids available. Which brands break down quicker?
 
Buy a flat strip, bend it so that it wedges between the plates, and stick it in there. Alternatively, I have seen people put the coil inside the tubing itself.

You aren't going to find the data you are looking for. No one has taken the time to do the review, because using alternative liquids in watercooling is a niche within a niche.

Edit: Additionally, breakdown tests take time. For any review to be legitimate, conditions must be identical for each coolant tested. Very few people have 2-3 watercooling systems, let alone 5-10 identical systems to test for 5+ years.
 
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Guys, if he wants to spend $20/L for dyed water, then let him.

Ive run distilled with no killcoil for 2 years straight with no algae growing, ive also run with a kill coil (which took a total of 15 extra seconds to install) for 2 years with no algae growth. I've also run tap water from my faucet for 6 months with no ill effects as well. So if you really want to spend $20/L on dyed water for that "look", then do it. The performance difference between distilled and colored coolant is negligible considering there's so many other factors that will have a large impact on performance.
 
PT Nuke + distilled water = second to kill coil + distilled water

If you want color use food coloring.

Its cheaper and its not exactly difficult.
 
generallee989 said:
I appreciate all the responses but I shouldn't be scolded on why a kill coil is a hassle for me....

Simply put, i would have to reconfigure my setup to accomodate one. I have separation plates in my reservoir to reduce turbulance and would not allow the coil to be submerged...

I understand water is the best, as stated in the original post, so please dont say water.

I revert back to my original question.

I am looking for facts, benchmarks, and data sheets of the current liquids available. Which brands break down quicker?
Click to expand...

Kill coil can easily be placed directly in the tube.... ;)
 
You can always try different stuff yourself and test it?

If you want to be [H]ard try doing it with some pee! :p
A nice light yellow colored loop if you have clear tubing might be nice.
Ok, I wouldn't recommend that.....
 
Actually pee would be good. Ammonia carries more heat than water and would kill anything in the loop. However it would eat through all your copper blocks but it would turn a funky blue.
 
I recently redid my loop with new tubing so I decided to splurge and grabbed some Primo Chill non conductive coolant...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._32_oz_-_Clear_PC-ICE2-CL.html?tl=c103s183b46

Its probably a waste of money, but time will tell...up until now I have always just used plain distilled water and never had any issues....I'm running the same loop for about 8 years now with only minor maintenance...its been through about 3 motherboard changes and a half dozen video card changes with nothing more than a drain and fill in between...

if I ever drain this out Ill just go back to water as this stuff is stupid expensive at $15.00 a quart...
 
Okay here is what they don't want to tell you... Most Pre Mixed fluids actually don't have an anti algae additive so that is actually what is gunking up in the waterblocks not the dye.. The dye is a liquid and never was a solid so therefore it does not solidify. It will however die the Algae. There is nothing wrong with using a pre mixed fluid. Just be sure to read the contents of the coolant before proceeding because you might still need to add an anti algae additive.
 
G1. Killer said:
Okay here is what they don't want to tell you... Most Pre Mixed fluids actually don't have an anti algae additive so that is actually what is gunking up in the waterblocks not the dye.. The dye is a liquid and never was a solid so therefore it does not solidify. It will however die the Algae. There is nothing wrong with using a pre mixed fluid. Just be sure to read the contents of the coolant before proceeding because you might still need to add an anti algae additive.
Click to expand...

Just an FYI, the fluid I linked above most certainly does have an anti algae additive....and it contains no dyes. I cant speak for any other fluids though
 
OK, this is all good info for me. Thank you guys.

I hessitate about putting a flat strip kill coil in the tube as im afraid of over time it wearing through the hose and leaking. It is an idea though and will keep it in mind.

I will also have to check the additives like suggested. I didnt take into consideration as I assumed they all had it :/

Thanks again for the help all.
 
I use lavoris mouthwash from big lots with green florescent radiator dye not been changed in years no algae pump still going for 7 yrs later . BE carefull some mouth wash is corrosive:rolleyes: watter wetter stains hoses
 
Hope you don't have any nickel blocks in your loop if you're going to run a kc. If you want a good premix, get something from Mayhems, period. Their premixes, dyes, and anti corrosion/biocides are all top knotch and won't lead to any issues (aside from aurora at least.)
 
failwheeldrive said:
Hope you don't have any nickel blocks in your loop if you're going to run a kc. If you want a good premix, get something from Mayhems, period. Their premixes, dyes, and anti corrosion/biocides are all top knotch and won't lead to any issues (aside from aurora at least.)
Click to expand...

Why?

The whole nickel erosion debate was proven incorrect in the EK situation about 18 months ago.
Go over the RealRedRaider.com if you want an education about what distilled water won't do.
The nickel erosion in the EK blocks had nothing to do with silver or distilled water, it was deficient plating techniques.

To further the comments on coils....I have three systems. One has a reservoir, so the coil resides there.
The other two have pump top reservoirs, so I merely place the coil inside the tubing downstream from the pump.
You don't have to use a coil. I saw a guy put a solid silver Jesus in his reservoir......worked fine. As long as the object is solid pure silver.
 
magoo said:
Why?

The whole nickel erosion debate was proven incorrect in the EK situation about 18 months ago.
Go over the RealRedRaider.com if you want an education about what distilled water won't do.
The nickel erosion in the EK blocks had nothing to do with silver or distilled water, it was deficient plating techniques.

To further the comments on coils....I have three systems. One has a reservoir, so the coil resides there.
The other two have pump top reservoirs, so I merely place the coil inside the tubing downstream from the pump.
You don't have to use a coil. I saw a guy put a solid silver Jesus in his reservoir......worked fine. As long as the object is solid pure silver.
Click to expand...

Was he trying to keep some hellish temperatures under control with holy water?

Back on topic. How does algae even build up in loops? I am about to throw my own loop together, but never understood this.
 
jon666 said:
Was he trying to keep some hellish temperatures under control with holy water?

Back on topic. How does algae even build up in loops? I am about to throw my own loop together, but never understood this.
Click to expand...

Mold spores are everywhere.
Bacteria is everywhere.
Algae is a mold and it feeds off bacteria.
Algae likes warm temperature and some light and lives in water.
So the watercooling loop is perfect.

Think of a swimming pool.
The reason you chlorinate (or what ever you use to disinfect) the pool is to kill bacteria so the algae doesn't have anything to feed off, plus it keeps the algae populations low too. The filter helps too, but that's mainly for large particles.
Swimming pool same thing....sun,water,warm temperature,bacteria.......algae blooms.:eek::eek:
The algae bloom is what makes your outdoor pool water first very cloudy, then green.
 
Ah, that makes sense. So the general consensus is killcoils are better then an anti-freeze like liquid to avoid hurting temps, and causing any corrosion inside the loop?
 
jon666 said:
Ah, that makes sense. So the general consensus is killcoils are better then an anti-freeze like liquid to avoid hurting temps, and causing any corrosion inside the loop?
Click to expand...

Anti-freeze is only used in cars to prevent freezing. It also better at preventing corrosion but the difference is small.

Distilled water is the way to go. If you want color just use colored tube.
 
I threw a Mexican libertad in my res, works good...and has titties

9718778_1m.jpg
 
Croak said:
Monsoon Silver Bullet would work well for the OP if he's afeared o' kill coils. Just screw it into a free G1/4 port and job done.

images
Click to expand...

Says you need to replace it every 6-12months, wtf is that shit. You should never have to replace a kill coil as the kill coils are solid silver. Best thing to do would be when you refill loop, to take it out, and lightly sand the tarnish off it with some high grit sand paper.
 
sok0 said:
Says you need to replace it every 6-12months, wtf is that shit. You should never have to replace a kill coil as the kill coils are solid silver. Best thing to do would be when you refill loop, to take it out, and lightly sand the tarnish off it with some high grit sand paper.
Click to expand...

I just wipe mine off with an alcohol pad and rinse in distilled water.

Arcygenical said:
Fixed for you... Nitrates....
Click to expand...

A few skin cells in 20,000 gallons of water is meaningless compared to just the bacterial load floating in the air.
Urine is sterile and in a private backyard pool, pretty small amount again, especially if properly sanitized.:D
 
cyclone3d said:
In addition to what others are saying here, you can add some "Water Wetter" to the water to increase the efficiency.

It is made for automobiles to help the cooling system be more efficient. Will do the same for a PC cooling setup.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10
Click to expand...

Water Wetter works for cars, it does not work for computers. Water Wetter actually lowers the cooling performance of the water (its cooling characteristics are worse than distilled water). What it does for cars is keep vapor bubbles from forming, this is an issue in cars because the engines run at such high temperatures. Computer water cooling doesn't get to those extreme temperatures, and therefore does not experience the same problems.

Also Water Wetter has alcohol ether in it, so don't use it if you have any sort of acrylic in your loop!
 
Distilled water and Silver coil here. Water was always clean upon draining...usually once a year. However be warned that nickel plating and silver do not mix. If you are going to have nickel in the loop, go with a biocide that wont alter the PH, such as Petra's PHN.
 
Bad ConNecTioN said:
Distilled water and Silver coil here. Water was always clean upon draining...usually once a year. However be warned that nickel plating and silver do not mix. If you are going to have nickel in the loop, go with a biocide that wont alter the PH, such as Petra's PHN.
Click to expand...

What you should have said was; when a company cuts corners , doesnt prep the copper surface properly, and doesnt use the proper nickel plating thickness, you will have issues with silver and nickel plated blocks. Danger Den was the last company that actually made great nickel blocks, shame they no longer exist. I wouldnt take the chance these days using nickel, but the good news is, pretty much every company makes both nickel and copper versions of the same block so it's up to you.
 
Bad ConNecTioN said:
Distilled water and Silver coil here. Water was always clean upon draining...usually once a year. However be warned that nickel plating and silver do not mix. If you are going to have nickel in the loop, go with a biocide that wont alter the PH, such as Petra's PHN.
Click to expand...

There is NOTHING wrong with using Silver coils in a nickel plated product with 100% distilled water.

You are referring to the EK problems a few years back.

If you want an education on metals and fluids and the (lack of) problems............

read this....the entire thing: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=47617

Here's the science if you care to read it: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=48167
 
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sok0 said:
What you should have said was; when a company cuts corners , doesnt prep the copper surface properly, and doesnt use the proper nickel plating thickness, you will have issues with silver and nickel plated blocks. Danger Den was the last company that actually made great nickel blocks, shame they no longer exist. I wouldnt take the chance these days using nickel, but the good news is, pretty much every company makes both nickel and copper versions of the same block so it's up to you.
Click to expand...

If you read and research, EK was the only brand that was having problems.....it seems to be a non-issue recently.
I have never seen anyone complain about Heatkiller plating.:D
 
Actually koolance now has a disclaimer to not use silver coils along with EK. I wont use either company so doesnt matter to me.
 
magoo said:
There is NOTHING wrong with using Silver coils in a nickel plated product with 100% distilled water.

You are referring to the EK problems a few years back.

If you want an education on metals and fluids and the (lack of) problems............

read this....the entire thing: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=47617

Here's the science if you care to read it: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=48167
Click to expand...


I don't own nickel plated blocks. I'm basing my opinion off my experience with nickel plated fittings. My Bitspower fittings showed significant corrosion in my system with only copper (brass), nickel, and a silver coil in the loop (two silver coils actually). My XSPC fittings were mostly untouched as were my Phobya fittings. So again, it might be due to plating issues...however Bitspower is usually highly regarded.

The corrosion isn't catastrophic, but its there. Most on the threaded end, which makes sense as that is probably the area where the plating process is least effective. Either way, silver is the outlier in the bunch and after several years of constant use, something had to give...and in this case it was the bitspower fittings. My XSPC and Phobya fittings have fared better it seems, though have been in use for less time.


But generally its accepted that silver coils and distilled water is the way to go. And for the last 4 years that's what I've been doing. Now I think I'll try distilled and Petra's PHN (Benzalkonium chloride).
 
magoo said:
Why?

The whole nickel erosion debate was proven incorrect in the EK situation about 18 months ago.
Go over the RealRedRaider.com if you want an education about what distilled water won't do.
The nickel erosion in the EK blocks had nothing to do with silver or distilled water, it was deficient plating techniques.

To further the comments on coils....I have three systems. One has a reservoir, so the coil resides there.
The other two have pump top reservoirs, so I merely place the coil inside the tubing downstream from the pump.
You don't have to use a coil. I saw a guy put a solid silver Jesus in his reservoir......worked fine. As long as the object is solid pure silver.
Click to expand...

Forget the EK Issue. It is still not best to use silver and nickle together. I just use a biocide because my aqualis has a nickle plated brass tube, and I just got a nickle plated video card block.
 
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