Concerns for new rig.

J

JerseyMonkey

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Hi folks, i'm building a new computer rig, and i've got a bunch of questions i'd appreciate if answered. Here I go.

First: Heres what my rig is looking like atm. Link.

1. I was looking at DVD Burners, and i'm rather unsure about whether to go IDE or SATA. My main wonder is, is there any real benefit of SATA over IDE? Is there really any performance increase since its a DVD burner? (Besides clean compact look to it.)

2. I am rather confused as to what power supply to purchase because I hear that a 500Watt can handle what I'm planning, what would be recommended for this?

3. I see on many motherboards PCI-E x1/x4 slots, how popular are these, and how are they for performance? If I plan on purchasing a sound card for example, would it be smart to get a pci-e one, or is it just going to cost extra to use a fancy slot?

4. eSATA: How does this work? The case I am purchasing comes with an eSATA port, which seems to just plug right into a SATA port on the motherboard. I presume it will work the same as having an external hard-drive on USB, except that you need to power the SATA hard-drive through probably an external enclosure. Just curious for some more information. I plan on purchasing a new drive soon to replace my 140GB and 260GB hard-drives, and use one of them as an external drive for Vista because if i'm forced to use Vista to see DX10, I want it to be external so I can hide it in a dark corner after I use it.

5. Has anyone ever used nTune? The application sounds very nice, mainly because I am very fearful of doing any overclocking due to computers ain't cheap, and this seems to 'automate overclocking' and 'maintain' your computer. Sadly though, it seems that the nForce motherboards i've looked at seem 'myeh' because they either have 3 PCI-E slots, or only 4 SATA ports. What do people think of nForce motherboards and nTune? I might just go for an intel chipset.

6. Heatsinks. I hear that Intel's processors run very hot and that their stock fans are horrid. Am I going to be forced to purchase a new heatsink? I've always loved my AMDs and their heatsinks have always done a good job. (I've had about 5 dif AMD processors, and 1 Intel. The Intel overheated and fried itself. At least, the comp stopped working, and I took apart the machine to find a burnt processor, but that was a P4 and a Gateway.)

7. Monitors: I planned on purchasing a DCL24A. Was being sold off Cosco for like $350, then it vanished. Anyways: I was thinking about purchasing the 640MB EVGA because of this insane resolution. Anyways: my question. Does anyone know of a way to get my Wii & 360 to play on a LCD monitor without having to go into LCD tvs?

And thats all my questions, which is actually a lot.
 
1. The clean, compact look is due to the smaller cable. The smaller cable improves airflow within the case. Thats the only performance enhancement a SATA drive offers. Also, keep in mind, PATA is being phased out of newer boards.

2. The Corsair HX520W is perfect for your setup.

3. They're not popular because they're brand new. Performance is much better on PCI-E over PCI, but again, there aren't many choices yet. PCI is being phased out, so it will take some time for the newer PCI-E variations to come out. There should be an X-Fi coming soon, in PCI-E form.

4. eSATA is just an differnt plug for SATA. It offers SATA300 speeds (300MB/s) instead of 60MB/s (480Mb/s) from your USB2.0 port. Get an external enclosure that will internally support your drive, with eSATA and USB2.0 connections.

5. If you don't need SLI, go with a P35 Express based board instead. I don't use NTune. If you want a good tool for OC'ing, get the Abit IP35-Pro, which comes with uGuru (micro guru). Though, you could survive without it. OC'ing a Core2 is very simple and easy, and we can teach you how.

6. Core2Duo's run coooool. Core2Quads run somewhat hot, cooler if its a G0 stepping. If you're not OC'ing, the stock HSF will do just fine. If you are OC'ing, and want to go past 3Ghz (on a dual core), then get a nice HSF. The tower coolers cool the best while keeping the computer quiet.

7. They have an Acer 24" for $350... dunno how good it is though. You'd need an LCD monitor with several inputs, or you need a video switcher

Comments on parts:

Get the PSU and case from Zipzoomfly instead, w/ free shipping.

Get the E6750 instead of the E6850. The E6750 will EASILY reach 3.2Ghz with the RAM you chose, on stock or near stock voltage. Both chips have the same OC potential, so save your money and go with the cheaper chip.

If you're going with a 24" LCD, you have to decide if SLI will ever be an option for you. SLI means dropping $1000, at LEAST, on video cards alone. If not, don't bother with an Nforce chipset, since they run hot. With a 24" LCD, get a single GTX or Ultra, and a P35 Express board. If SLI is a possibility, go with an eVGA 122-CK-NF68-A1 board.

If you don't need SLI... what features do you need in a motherboard? The Abit IP35 Pro, Gigabyte GA-P35-DS4, and Asus P5K-E are great high end boards. If you want to save some cash and don't need the features they offer, check out the IP35 (raid and firewire), P35-DS3R (raid, no firewire), P35-DS3L (no raid, no firewire), and IP35-E (no raid, no firewire; mwave price is $90 - $20MIR).

These are recommended coolers (quiet):
$35 - Scythe SCNJ-1100P Ninja Plus Rev.B CPU HSF
$45 - Tuniq Tower 120 CPU HSF
$46 - Thermalright Ultima 90 CPU HS + FBA09A12M - Z ($3)
$55 - Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme CPU HS + Scythe S-Flex Fan SFF21E ($15)

I have a GA-P35-DS3R, E6750, Tuniq Tower 120, and 2GBNQ G.Skills. I can reach 3.2Ghz on stock voltage, ORTHOS stable for 24+ hours -- all I had to do was change the FSB from AUTO to 400. If I use my Ballistix RAM, I can reach 3.8Ghz with 1.55vCore (cpu voltage) -- have to change a few more settings, but its easy.

$110 - Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 BL2KIT12864AA804 ($47 MIR)

Formulas for Intel platform @ 1:1 settings: (base FSB speed is SDR, or single data rate)
(CPU Multiplier) x [Base FSB speed] = CPU Clock speed
2 x [Base FSB speed] = RAM speed (DDR: double data rate)
4 x [Base FSB speed] = Effective FSB speed (QDR: quad data rate)

On Intel platforms, running the RAM higher than a 1:1 ratio with the CPU is, for the most part, useless. All you need is a 1:1 config. Here's some possible clock speeds (as always with OC'ing, YMMV):

E6750: 8 × 333 = 2.6Ghz, DDR2-667 << STOCK speeds
E6750: 8 × 400 = 3.2Ghz, DDR2-800 << Easy OC
E6750: 8 × 450 = 3.6Ghz, DDR2-900 << Good OC
E6750: 8 × 500 = 4.0Ghz, DDR2-1000 << Great OC

Go with 500GB HDDs. Samsungs and WDs are quiet. Seagates have 5yr warranty. Get two if you want 1TB. For an OS/Apps drive, get the Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB, since its pretty damn fast.
 
Wow, thanx a ton for all of this information.

I have 4 SATA drives currently, the ones in my signature. I plan on purchasing a 750-1TB drive to replace the 250GB and 160GB, without doing that, I have 4 SATA drives already, and then you add a SATA dvd drive and an eSATA port on the case which plugs into the SATA port. So, for the most part: I'm going to be choked up on SATA ports, otherwise i'd love to purchase some of those 500GB that are going for about $90.

On the motherboard, I don't think i'm going to go with nForce anymore. I HATE SLI mode since it gives such minor performance boast. Its only purpose is if technology is limited, its a way to get some extra performance, but for the average gamer, thats rather silly, and most games actually ran shitter with my SLI configuration. Just something I dislike.

I'm not going to worry about monitors yet, since mine does well for the moment, and I can think of that after I build my rig. I'm planning on going for the 640MB because if I can get a monitor like the DCL24A, then it'll need that extra ram to support that resolution. I suppose I should look at more monitors then to make sure i'll need that ram, otherwise I'll keep that $$. I'd like to stay with a GTS because the other models seem to cost too much for the little performance boast i'll get.

Now, the OCing stuff. I'm for the most part, rather scared to OC, mainly because I leave my machine running 24/7. I use it for everything, and I presume using a machine like that while OC could cause some issues, and I don't wanna damage my expensive baby. :)

I do not use firewire or RAID configurations, so i'm going to need a rather simple motherboard, which just needs to support my SATA.

If you could educate me more on the OCing stuff, i'd greatly appreciate it. I started this build trying to keep near a $1k amount, but if I can get better stuff to increase performance for not much more, i'm willing.

Time to do some more work. Thanx a lot for all the information, greatly appreciated.

*edit* Looking at ABIT IP35 Pro's board now, and reading some reviews of it. Question: What do you use that PCI-E x16 electrical slot for? I asked this on another thread, and was pretty much told it'd be used for another graphics card or a RAID controller. Neither of which i'd like.
 
JerseyMonkey said:
Now, the OCing stuff. I'm for the most part, rather scared to OC, mainly because I leave my machine running 24/7. I use it for everything, and I presume using a machine like that while OC could cause some issues, and I don't wanna damage my expensive baby. :)

*edit* Looking at ABIT IP35 Pro's board now, and reading some reviews of it. Question: What do you use that PCI-E x16 electrical slot for? I asked this on another thread, and was pretty much told it'd be used for another graphics card or a RAID controller. Neither of which i'd like.
Click to expand...

If you leave your voltage at stock or near stock, then you won't compromise stability as long as your chip stays cool. We'll get into more detail once you build.

The extra PCI-E slot is 16x lanes long, but only electrically hooked up to 4 lanes. You could also use the slot for a PCI-E SATA Controller card with or without RAID. This will give you the ability to add even more HDDs to your system.

You currently have 984GB from 4 HDDs. Add two opticals to that, and you're already at 6 drives. You want an eSATA, leaving you with a single SATA port left for expansion without buying an additional controller. So, I'd suggest the Gigabyte DS3R, since it has 8 SATA ports. You want to replace the 250 and 160 with a single 750-1000GB. I'd replace them with 2 more 500GB drives instead.
 
Ok, i'm really confused. Everywhere I go, it says that the ABIT IP35 Pro has 6 SATA ports, yet on NewEgg's photo it says only four.

On NewEgg's spec page, it says that the motherboard has 6 SATA 3Gb/s, is that including the 2 eSATA ports? If the motherboard actually had 6 on-board SATA ports, that'd be perfect. 4 HDs, 1 SATA DVD Drive, and 1 eSATA port off the case.

Sadly, you got me really wanting the ABIT motherboard now. If it has 6 SATA ports on the board, then its perfect, if it has 4, i'm screwed. /shrug I looked around on NewEgg for cheap SATA PCI-E/PCI cards, and for the most part, they get HORRID reviews unless I go for the boards in the $300 range.

I looked at the gigabyte you recommended, and was rather weirded out by the fancier model. The board had 4 DDR2 slots then 2 DDR3 slots. Just seems a bit bizare and indecisive.

And I'm probably going to purchase a 750GB which is rather sad, because it is about the same price as two 500GBs. I mainly want a 750GB because I keep my horde of anime, manga, ect. on one hard-drive. Rather silly for me to want to keep it all together one one hard-drive, when two hard-drives for same price would give me a lot more space. We shall see.

Thanx so much for all the help you've given me so far. Makes working on this build a lot easier.
 
The IP35 Pro does have 6 onboard SATA and the 2 ESATA ports. The 6 onboard SATA ports are mounted horizontally to the board. You can see it in this pic:
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/ip35__pro/images/45.htm

Also, I do recommend getting two 500GB drives over a single 750GB. As you can already tell, two 500GB is about the same price as a single 750GB drive but it also offers a bit of data safety. If one drive dies, at least not ALL of that data is lost. Or you can put them into a RAID 0 format where both hard drives are merged and seen as one. Here's an article that explains RAID a bit better:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2007/06/11/understanding_raid/1

However there are risks to a RAID 0, like for example, If one hard drive crashes, ALL of the data is lost

Also I might add, your anime and manga collection makes my collection look so meek. I only have about 150GB of anime and manga. :eek:
 
The only reason to get the IP35 Pro is for its overclocking tools and extra PCI-E 4.16x slot (I need a shorthand name for it, lol). It has a nice cmos reset switch on the rear panel, and it has a well-liked windows overclocking tool named uGuru (micro guru).

I didnt need such things, so I opted for the P35-DS3R instead. It overclocks great (528Mhz FSB max for my setup) and has RAID, along with 8 total SATA ports. It also comes with an eSATA PCI bracket, to convert 2 of the internal ports into external ports (at the cost of an expansion slot).

The fancier model Gigabyte is for whoever wants DDR3 support, for future ugpradability. DDR3 support is useless right now, imo. By the time DDR3 is mainstream and worth buying, there will be new boards out that will take better advantage of it. Intel expects DDR3 to become mainstream in 2009, and will release a new chipset by then.

Since you seem like you need the space, and you've seen the reviews on those controller cards, I'd still suggest the DS3R. Again, I have a lot of drives, too... so thats why I chose it.
 
enginurd said:
The only reason to get the IP35 Pro is for its overclocking tools and extra PCI-E 4.16x slot (I need a shorthand name for it, lol). It has a nice cmos reset switch on the rear panel, and it has a well-liked windows overclocking tool named uGuru (micro guru).
Click to expand...

I believe the IP35 Pro also has additional cooling pipes, which make it different from the IP35 and IP35-E. However, I do agree that the DS3R and the IP35-E are excellent alternatives for a reasonable amount less.
 
Ok, so Comcast is fucking up the internet, and decided to work on the FTP servers which means I cain't show off my build atm, which is annoying.

Anyways: Here seems to be what i'm going for.

COOLER MASTER RC-690-KKN1-GP Mid Tower Case $70
Corsair HX Series CMPSU-520HX 520W Power Supply $108
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz $195
EVGA GeForce 8800GTS 640MB(OC'd) $395
LITE-ON SATA DVD Burner $37

Now, the only thing i'm indecisive about is the motherboard and ram. Primarily due to the overclocking topic. Also, i'd like to avoid MIRs because they never seem to ever come back to me.

ABIT IP35 Pro only costs $180. When I think about it, if it is my motherboard, I have no worry for spending $50ish extra, since it is my motherboard. I looked at ABIT IP35 which is $145 which isn't much of a downgrade in price, but I do like the board since it has only one PCI-E slot, and vertical SATA ports.

And for ram, I really am unsure what to get. I saw at NewEgg that I could purchase some higher end memory sticks. I'm mainly just very confused about them because they seem to effective how I should overclock if I decide to.
 
JerseyMonkey said:
And for ram, I really am unsure what to get. I saw at NewEgg that I could purchase some higher end memory sticks. I'm mainly just very confused about them because they seem to effective how I should overclock if I decide to.
Click to expand...


I recommend the Patriot Extreme Performance RAM. Good for overclocking, stable, and high performance @ a very reasonable price (after rebate). I am currently using that ram and am very satisfied. Also take a look at G.Skill with same timings and lower voltage. Almost $100 more, though. Third option is Crucial.
 
In enginurd's first post in the thread, he states

On Intel platforms, running the RAM higher than a 1:1 ratio with the CPU is, for the most part, useless. All you need is a 1:1 config. Here's some possible clock speeds (as always with OC'ing, YMMV):

E6750: 8 × 333 = 2.6Ghz, DDR2-667 << STOCK speeds
E6750: 8 × 400 = 3.2Ghz, DDR2-800 << Easy OC
E6750: 8 × 450 = 3.6Ghz, DDR2-900 << Good OC
E6750: 8 × 500 = 4.0Ghz, DDR2-1000 << Great OC
Click to expand...

When, all the ram chips that have been recomended from you and others have been DDR-800, when I see ram chips like this,(STOP WITH THIS LED MADNESSS!!!!) which are DDR2-1000, and the same price. And also, I look at the Patriot and Crucial and start to think they may be poor ram because of the insane MIRs they have.
 
JerseyMonkey said:
In enginurd's first post in the thread, he states



When, all the ram chips that have been recomended from you and others have been DDR-800, when I see ram chips like this,(STOP WITH THIS LED MADNESSS!!!!) which are DDR2-1000, and the same price. And also, I look at the Patriot and Crucial and start to think they may be poor ram because of the insane MIRs they have.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you need 1066 mhz right now. You can always OC 800mhz ram to perform at 1066.As for the MIRs, they shouldn't discourage you. RAM is becoming cheaper as DDR3 is being developed. The Patriot extreme performance ram is excellent, as is G.Skill and Ballistics. I'm not so fond of the Corsair XMS2, however. In the end, its up to you. I would suggest PC2-6400 800mhz because you probably won't need more than that. As for the amount (2GB vs. 4GB), that's up to you.

FYI: The Ram you linked to is in fact PC2-8000 DDR 1000 ram, but it is MORE expensive than the ram I showed you and has timings of 5-5-5-12 whereas the ram I showed you has looser timings of 4-4-4-12. In the end, it all depends on what you need/what you plan to do with the PC.
 
Ok, I understand that now. I'm looking at ram chips at that speed at that timing currently.

Now, about the power supply, if you have a recommendation (for any of the parts also). Please do give it me, for ANY of the parts that is. I only chose that power supply because people recommended it. Stating that a high quality 550 Watt will be a lot better than a higher wattage power supply.

Heres a few ram chips I was looking at if you could comment.

Team Xtreem DARK 2GB $86
Crucial 2GB $99 (-$25 MIR)
CORSAIR XMS2 2GB $100 (-$40 MIR)

To be honest, I really hate all these MIRs but almost every ram chip has one right now. I mainly hate them, because I rarely EVER see them come back, or if I do, it shows up like 3 years later and I don't even remember what I bought.
 
PC_User said:
I believe the IP35 Pro also has additional cooling pipes
Click to expand...

Ahh yes, but that could be included in my "oc'ing tools," lol, since thats the only time they're of use.

JerseyMonkey said:
In enginurd's first post in the thread, he states...

And also, I look at the Patriot and Crucial and start to think they may be poor ram because of the insane MIRs they have.
Click to expand...

There are insane MIRs because there's an abundant supply of RAM right now. The best chips for overclocking are Micron D9XXX, and Micron owns crucial. There's no point in buying the DDR2-1066 RAM because the Ballistix DDR2-800 use the same chips! Which is why they can OC to DDR2-1066 speeds! Here's the ramlist: http://ramlist.ath.cx/ddr2/

For an E6750, I highly recommend anything that uses Micron D9XXX chips. As I stated earlier, these are the best value, IMO:

$104 - Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 BL2KIT12864AA804 ($47 MIR)

I've ordered 3 of them already, and I've already gotten 2 rebates back. The third is still pending, since it was a recent purchase. If you don't like rebates, stick to the $60 sticks and just don't OC as high.
 
Ok, i'm gonna grab the Crucial then.

Now, that power supply. $170....that makes me wanna cry. :( The only power supplies i've ever bought, costed me about $50-80ish, but I'm starting to think that $170 is reasonable, because my current rig is on its second power supply.(first one wasn't really SLI capable, and now my second one which is an Antec is dieing on me, as in that it will attempt to power on after being offline for a while, and will give up almost immediately, and causes me to have to sit here for about 10 min. attempting to revive it.)

I was starting this initial build off thinking I could get away building a godlike rig for $1k, and now it seems like slowly everything is getting boasted up a ton.

So, everything looks established. I need to head to bed, and think a bit more about some of the stuff. If you guys could look at my build one final time, i'd appreciate any more recommendations.

Build.

Oh one question. I noticed the power supplys only have 4 SATA ports it can power. Is there a way I could buy an additional SATA modular cable, or must I use a converter to power?

Wow, the rig is about $1151 if I get that fancier PSO and the PRO motherboard. Thats damn near my expected $1k. That makes me happy.

And NewEgg would charge me tax if I shipped it home(New Jersey), but if I ship it to school(New York), I get it quicker, and no tax. I just gotta pray that it actually gets shipped to my job, otherwise, they are going to throw all these parts all around campus and eventually find my mailroom box. /shrug
 
JerseyMonkey said:
Now, that power supply. $170....that makes me wanna cry. :(

Oh one question. I noticed the power supplys only have 4 SATA ports it can power. Is there a way I could buy an additional SATA modular cable, or must I use a converter to power?
Click to expand...

Don't get that PSU from Newegg. Get it somewhere else, like zipzoomfly.com, buy.com, or clubit.com instead. You really only need the 520W though, since it has 40A on the +12V rails (where most of the power draw will be from anyhow).

$108 - Corsair CMPSU-520HX 520W PSU ($20MIR) (Free Shipping)
$147 - Corsair CMPSU-620HX 620W PSU ($20MIR) (Free Shipping)

That's a good question. Well, you could always get a MOLEX to SATA adapter:

$4 - SATA POWER PASS-THROUGH Y CABLE
$3 - 8" Dual SATA Power Adapter Cable
$1 - 12" Dual Right Angle SATA Power Adapter Cable
$2 - 6" Dual SATA Power Adapter Cable w/ Locking Clip
$4 - 8" Molex to Dual 90 Degree SATA Power Adapter
$4 - 20" Molex to Dual 90 Degree SATA Power Adapter

I'm gonna ask Corsair if I can trade in some molex cables for SATA cables, lol.
 
I should have a 8" Dual SATA Power Adapter Cable spare somewhere in one of my boxes from when SATA was new, and a hard-drive came with it.

The reason for that sound card is because I want a separate sound device for my computer. I play Counter-Strike and talk in ventrilo, and in the past, I would put ventrilo on my speakers and CS on my headset. Easily done when I had a usb sound card, which died, so now i'm picking up a $20 internal to replace that.
 
Corsair 520W should be enough, but if you want to play it safe (for OCing/future upgrades), go with the 620.
 
Ok, everything seems golden. Spending the extra on the IP35 Pro and 620mhz Corsair. Going to be purchasing all the parts very soon. Thankyou all for the help, greatly appreciated.
 
One final question: Sorry for dragging this on.

Should I think about going for 4GB in the future? Would there be any conflicts with the ram I am going to be overclocking?

Also: For heatsinks, I was looking at this heatsink.
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 $20

Doesn't cost too much, and seems to give very good cooling.
 
Well if you get the same set of Ballistix RAM, then no, there shouldn't be that much of a problem. However, OCing 4 x 1GB of RAM is kinda hard since you now have four sets of RAM, each single or pair having different overclocking capabilities. But if you get the same set of Ballistix RAM, that should mitigate that problem a slight bit.

For a light OC that AC7 Pro is all right. I have one myself and it cools reasonable well for my overclocked E6400 at 3.2Ghz, 45C idle, 55C load, about 27C ambient I think? Though my OC isn't exactly light. The AC7 Pro is also kinda loud IMO when compared to the stock Intel HSF at high speeds.

I do recommend getting a better cooler since, to some, my temps seem a bit high. Also the AC7 Pro isn't that good once you try a higher OC. So I recommend either of these two HSF:
URL=http://www.jab-tech.com/Scythe-NINJA-PLUS-Rev.B-6-Heat-Pipes-CPU-Cooler-pr-3538.html]Scythe SCNJ-1100P Ninja HSF[/URL] - $36
Tuniq Tower 120 HSF - $45
 
Danny's link is broken:
$35 - Scythe SCNJ-1100P Ninja Plus Rev.B CPU HSF

I agree with Danny. If you want higher than 3.2Ghz, get the Ninja or one of these:
$45 - Tuniq Tower 120 CPU HSF
$46 - Thermalright Ultima 90 CPU HS + FBA09A12M - Z ($3)
$55 - Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme CPU HS + Scythe S-Flex Fan SFF21E ($15)

The AC F7 Pro is nice, but this one is very similar and priced better, if you want to stay within 3.2Ghz:
$30 - Cooler Master RR-CCH-L9U1-GP 92mm Hyper TX2 ($20MIR)
 
Sadly, the Tuniq Tower is out of stock on NewEgg. Seems like a very nice heatsink. Probably could buy it off the dif website that Danny linked. (Ugh....buying stuff from ZipZoomFly, MonoPrice, and NewEgg)

I don't see myself needing more than 2GB, but my wonder is with using a monitor that can go up to 1920 x 1200, if i'll need more ram to be able to perform at that resolution.

Two more things. I presume most heatsinks don't come with thermal paste, and I should buy some of that. And I should probably purchase one of those anti-static wrist straps. Bleh. Neverending list to buy.
 
Pickup a 3.5gram tube of Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling MX-2. Its always good to have a tube around because you never know if you have to re-seat your CPU/HSF. And yah, grab an anti-static wrist strap if you're paranoid. Personally, I just used to touch an unpainted area of the case before touching a component. Just make sure the case has the PSU installed, and the PSU is plugged into the wall (but with power switch on the back of the PSU set to off).
 
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