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Codename : Community Ghetto Cool Project!

Kern

Limp Gawd
Joined
Oct 28, 2004
Messages
143
Greetings, fellow hard ons! err... [H]ard onEs!

I have a favor to ask of you all... actually, it's not really a favor, more along the lines of input on a community project.

After years of overclocking and going deaf with my Thermaltake Smart Fan II going full bore on my processor... I've decided to step into water cooling.

Please keep this in mind: I'm not an idiot and I'm not here to plead for advice and an exact process of going about this.

So... maybe I should say why I'm doing this thread.

Since I've decided to step into watercooling, I've never done things "the normal way". Hey, I'm an English major, screw the obvious! However, with that being said, I am a poor college student, but I love to try new things and experiment. So, what I'm asking of you guys is input into water cooling -- parts, ways of setting it up, etc. -- just things that you haven't done before or WANT to try but haven't, or something you think would be cool but don't have the time/space to do it.

So... I give you... The Community Ghetto Cool Project!

I'll be building the setup and have final say over what goes in (my computer, after all :p ), but I'd like from you guys, if you care, is something you'd like to see done. I'm very compitent in building things, but there is one stipulation...

I'm in college, I'm and English Education major, and the funds aren't the greatest. I have a steady income, so every week to couple weeks I plan to order a new part / set something up (depending on how much the product would be). So... this is where Ghetto comes in.

I'm all about ghetto modding. Just to give you an idea, my video card cooler is a piece of cardboard and electrical tape shoved in a PCI slot with two 80mm on it. Ghetto? I think so. My DVD-Rom drive's magnet holder thingy is held together by a glob of hot glue. And my cathodes are held in by duct tape (god bless it!).

So... if you have any creative suggestions for water cooling, throw them out! I don't care if they're too obscure, but please try to keep in mind that this actually has to be practical. I'm willing to manufactor whatever I need to if it saves the wallet. Of course I'd be willing to buy water blocks and the like... but hey, we'll see what our members come up with!

To start things off with, and to show my ghetto-ness, this will be the case that we'll be working with:


Ohhhh... 19 dollar ghetto goodness!


That should be plenty of room, shouldn't it? The case will also be modded accordingly, but I wanted something... huge... and ugly... and cheap. Suffice to say I succeeded? If anyone has a better idea, let me know!


Sorry for the long post, but if you've survived, I appreciate it! Get creative!
 
Oh yea... I'll be using my current system for this, but hopefully this new watercooling unit (minus new water blocks, etc...) will last me a few upgrades. My system right now is:

P4 3.0C
Asus P4P800 deluxe
1 gig PC2700 Corsair XMS (2-2-2-5)
BFG 6800 OC

not like much matters besides fitting for blocks, but I thought I'd throw it out.
 
Well the big ugly case is a good start. Maybe a used heater core out of a mid to late 70's Chev. One thatll fit 2 120mm fans. New cores are in the 20-30 buck range. A used one should be half that. Make a fan shroud out of cardboard and duct tape but dont go cheap here, get the double corrugated cardboard.

Then its time to start chopping up that case....
 
Thanks guys!

Yea, for 19 dollars, I figured it would work pretty good. Oh, yes, it's a piece of hell, but it's a large, cheap one!

MikeP, thanks for the suggestion on the heater core, I'll look around for them. You think my local auto parts store might have some, or should I look around online? As for the fan shroud, a piece of plexi glass that size is only a couple bones, so I couple probably spare that :p... but the cardboard is tempting... Only thing I'm worried about is condensation (which would be bad for anything). But... I'm sure there will be some duct tape involved ;).

The case shipped out today, should be here in a couple of days. Now need to figure out the layout!
 
Here is a tip: dont get a used radiator.... worst idea ever. '77 bonneville HC should suit you nicely. Via Aqua 1300, old or homemade waterblock. If you have money to splurge, spring for a mcw6002.
 
I'll take your word on it, killernoodle, but do you speak from experience with the used rad? Care to share? Need a hug?
 
*hugs killernoodle* It's ok man... we're here for you...

Update:

As I said, case should be here in a couple days, depositing money in my bank account then... I'm guessing rad will be the first purchase, anyone have some nifty idea you want to try with placement?

Also, I'm thinking of ways to make my own res. I'll keep you guys updated.

Thanks for the posts, guys!
 
killernoodle said:

You can get jars like that, but in a much thicker plastic (probably thicker then a glass jar) at Wal-Mart and/or K-mart.

What I did was I went and got one of those water-containers from K-Mart (Wal-Mart has them, but not in clear) which is for dispensing water, so it comes with a trigger-spout and a top cap. I then drilled a hole in the top cap for the barb and cut the spout right at the trigger (right before the 90 degree), slipped a hose over it and I was good to go. Easy as pie and only $4.50 to boot. And I will always know that it is the Martha Stewart collection, so it is perfectly ok with being in an enclosed location for long amounts of time!
 
Thanks guys, you've been great!

I've been looking around online for heater cores, would I just be better off going to my local Napa and getting one to mod? I like the idea of putting it up top, that's what I was planning, but I've read places where I should have the air blowing IN instead of out, since it is on the top and get cool air in. Any comment on that?

Oh, and a cardboard shroud sounds better and better ;). My local grocery store's boxes and some glue should make a pretty solid one.

I'll shop around at Wal/K/Mart or Target for some kind of drinking item. I've modded a K-mart lunch box before into a LAN box, so I know Martha makes good products ;). But those containers on that site were dirt cheap. I'll look around.

I've also though about getting a PVC tri elbow and using it as a res; putting barbs on each end and then having the cap poke through the top of the case with the cap for easy filling. Do you guys think that would work? That would make fillling it real easy and I could have a pretty good sized res.

The place for the tubing looks good, is this stuff going to cut it for tubing? I know Tygon is pricey stuff, so you guys think this will work without breaking the bank? Clix meh!

That's all I've got right now. I'm working out other plans to mod this puppy, I'll let you know the details when I get them figured out.
 
i was thinking of doing something similar for my lappy... but a watercooled version of a laptop chiller.

go to the garden dept. of lowes (not home depot) and get yourself a 120gph statuary fountain pump. that thing does about a gallon every 3-5sec. half-inch tubing will move water very quickly as well...
 
starhawk said:
go to the garden dept. of lowes (not home depot) and get yourself a 120gph statuary fountain pump. that thing does about a gallon every 3-5sec. half-inch tubing will move water very quickly as well...

Sounds like a plan! I have a Farm and Fleet / Fleet Farm or Menards here, but they should have one like it. Any idea on the price of these things? I suppose I could look it up, but if you know off hand.
 
starhawk said:
i was thinking of doing something similar for my lappy... but a watercooled version of a laptop chiller.

go to the garden dept. of lowes (not home depot) and get yourself a 120gph statuary fountain pump. that thing does about a gallon every 3-5sec. half-inch tubing will move water very quickly as well...


Good luck getting the actual 120gph though. That's generally the amount of flow from the outlet of the pump if it's submerged. Once you add barbs to it, you then downsize the amount of water that gets into the pump and the amount of water that can get out of the pump.

My 500gph pond pump does about 3gpm once it's got all the restricting items in place. So depending on what he needs and what block he goes with, it might be better to get a bigger pump.
 
Spidey329 said:
Good luck getting the actual 120gph though. That's generally the amount of flow from the outlet of the pump if it's submerged. Once you add barbs to it, you then downsize the amount of water that gets into the pump and the amount of water that can get out of the pump.

My 500gph pond pump does about 3gpm once it's got all the restricting items in place. So depending on what he needs and what block he goes with, it might be better to get a bigger pump.


Spidey, what kind of pump are you using? Did you get it at a "home improvement" store as well?

Speaking of blocks, I'm looking online for ways of manufacturing them, but I suppose I should probably just buy those... they're kind of important :p.
 
starhawk said:
i was thinking of doing something similar for my lappy... but a watercooled version of a laptop chiller.

go to the garden dept. of lowes (not home depot) and get yourself a 120gph statuary fountain pump. that thing does about a gallon every 3-5sec. half-inch tubing will move water very quickly as well...

If you did the math for the pump you just stated, you would see that it gets a gallon every 30 seconds or so, which isnt very much and that is at 0' head pressure. And half inch tubing has nothing to do with the amount of water that can be moved through the loop. You could move 120gph through 1/16" tubing with enough pressure.

He probably got his 500gph pump from petsmart, a Supreme (Danner) Magnetic Drive 5 (mag 5). Same as the mag 3 basically, but nets very little gain in performance because of the added heat and cost. A mag 3 pump from reefgeek.com would suit you nicely if you dont want the via aqua 1300, which is on $20. The mag 3 is $40 but is far better and more reliable. There are other cheap pumps like the CSP-750, but not nearly as powerful.
 
Kern said:
Spidey, what kind of pump are you using? Did you get it at a "home improvement" store as well?

Speaking of blocks, I'm looking online for ways of manufacturing them, but I suppose I should probably just buy those... they're kind of important :p.

Generally, machine time is upwards of $100/hr. An average block can take quite a while of machine time, add materials and it is not very effective on a short production run.

The Swiftech MCW6002 is the best block for the money. $40 and the performance is excellent: far better than most cheapy waterblocks.
 
I didn't mean machining them :p . I've seen ones made out of drinking fountain parts, but I plan on getting a premade block. Thanks, though! I've checked out the MCW6002 before, it's pretty good.

Anyone have anything about that rad question? Should I find one online or get one at a hardware store and mod it? Just wondering the price trade off. Thanks!

And does my res idea sound plausable? With the PVC tri elbow?
 
killernoodle said:
If you did the math for the pump you just stated, you would see that it gets a gallon every 30 seconds or so, which isnt very much and that is at 0' head pressure. And half inch tubing has nothing to do with the amount of water that can be moved through the loop. You could move 120gph through 1/16" tubing with enough pressure.

The size of the tubing has everything to do with the amount of water that can be moved. Sure, you can force 120gph through 1/16" tubing with enough pressure. But since pumps are limited in pressure by restriction, it makes it a little hard to hold flowrate constant while increasing restriction. This is exactly why people seek pumps having greater head ratings rather than misleading "maximum flowrate" figures.
 
Oh yea, the MCW6002 is a 1/2 barb, correct? Do you suggest 1/2 over 3/8?
 
Kern said:
And does my res idea sound plausable? With the PVC tri elbow?

Sounds like a winner, I have something similar. I have barbs in the straight-through ends and a plug for filling in the T.
 
zer0signal667 said:
Sounds like a winner, I have something similar. I have barbs in the straight-through ends and a plug for filling in the T.


Excellent! I figured it'd be pretty cheap and easy to put together, just need to make sure nothing gets unscrewed (save the top, but I'll do something different with that) ... Super glue.

Anyone have a preference over 1/2 or 3/8? My only thought is, since I DO have a bigger case, that's more tubing that a pump needs to push water around in. That's correct, isn't it? So, in my case, I should probably go with 1/2 and a pretty good powered pump... correct?

And always nice to have a moderator in the thread ;)!
 
what i was thinking was just build a res big enough i.e. spray paint a maxwell can inside and out with something waterproof and just glue the dang thing in there. that's what i was gonna do. pump weighs 2lbs as it is, might as well not be klunking around more than it needs to.
 
Kern said:
Excellent! I figured it'd be pretty cheap and easy to put together, just need to make sure nothing gets unscrewed (save the top, but I'll do something different with that) ... Super glue.

Anyone have a preference over 1/2 or 3/8? My only thought is, since I DO have a bigger case, that's more tubing that a pump needs to push water around in. That's correct, isn't it? So, in my case, I should probably go with 1/2 and a pretty good powered pump... correct?

And always nice to have a moderator in the thread ;)!

Leave the superglue in the junk drawer. For PVC fittings, use PVC cement (look near the PVC fittings in the store, go figure) on the entire mating surface. It works wonders- just don't screw up because it's quick setting and permanent. For threading barbs into the fittings, use nylon barbs and wrap them with a few turns of Teflon tape. Tighten hand tight, and then another turn or so with a wrench. I promis it will never leak or unthread
:D

A little extra tubing is not much added restriction. Adding more length versus having tight bends is a far better option. Even with a large case, 3/8" would probably be only marginally worse than 1/2". I would still go with 1/2", just because that's my preference.

Edit: IM or PM me if you want pictures of my PVC res, I can shed some light on what you need to buy and how to fit it together.
 
Sounds like a plan, I'll check it all out.

Anyone still have an opinion on the heatercore? Get it online or at the hardware store? If I get it online (I've searched and haven't been able to find one [I have seen dual 120mm ones, though, but not that 77 Bonneville, unless they don't bother calling it]) will it come barbed, or do I have to do it? I can solder and desolder, just wondering the price differential.

Thanks guys!
 
!/2 tubes are only a very small amount better than 3/8. But since they cost the same amount why not get the slightly better ones, unless you have a very small case and cant fit em which isnt a problem here.

77 Bonneville heater core, usually in stock at any big auto parts store. Roughly 20-30 bucks and yes, you will have to barb the ends. The bonneville core for use with airconditioning is slightly larger than the non A/C one. If youve got the room go for the bigger one ( still dual 120MM). Slightly more fin surface area equals slightly better cooling.
 
Rock on, 1/2 inch it will be and I'll go to the auto store in a bit. But...

The case arrived today! Ho-what!! Fellas... this thing... is a damned monster. It's about three feet high and heavy as a mug (not too bad, but it's not light :p ). I can't wait to take the Dremel to this thing! Ohhh, the possibilities!

I thought about putting my pump near the top, but I'm not sure if I'll have enough room with that monster rad. Right now I'm thinking the layout will be the rad in the upper right (side profile) about the optical drives, the custom res somewhere on the top from the middle to back, and either the pump in the bottom front or behind/under the res. If anyone else has an idea let me know, but I didn't get this case so I could stick stuff outside :p.

Now I need a big ol' handle for this sucker. I'll probably start making a window design sometime, to.
 
Don't stop chopping until you have all the parts. Things will always work out differently when you have the actual parts, trust me.
 
thewhiteguy said:
Don't stop chopping until you have all the parts. Things will always work out differently when you have the actual parts, trust me.


Oh, I know. I don't plan on cutting anything up yet, I'm just getting a design out. Measure twice, cut once ;). I plan on getting the rad and then probably building the res. I need those positioned so I can go from there.
 
Well, I just was looking around online for rads and checked out prices online for Autozone.

77 Bonnevile w/ AC

18 bucks isn't bad! I'll stop by my local store this weekend and see if it's the same prices or if they'll match it.

Also, once I start cutting things up, I'll take pictures :p.
 
Alright, went to Napa today and picked up my rad for about 23 dollars. It's the 77 Bonneville w/ AC, it's pretty beast. I'm not at my house right now (home from college for the weekend), but I'll head back tomorrow and hopefully start modding!

Also looked at parts for my res. Pretty simple, I'll start on it soon.

I should have pictures up soon with the rad. Oh yea, have to order fans, too :p.
 
cornelious0_0 said:
Good stuff mate, I'll definitely be watchin' to see how this turns out.

Thanks man!

Update:

In a few hours I'm going over to buddy's house and we're going to start some of the modding. Tonight I should have the rad placement and shroud done, hopefully my res part way done, and some switches installed. Still debating on color/window theme, but I'll come up with it eventually.

Pictures to come tonight!

Oh yea, anyone know anywhere to get some cheap, but yet somewhat decent, 120mm fans? I've been looking around and the cheapest I can find is about 8 dollars. Not bad, I'll pay for them, but just wondering if anyone knew of any good place to get them.

*Edit* Google to the rescue, what about this place? I'll be doing my own wiring, so the lack of connectors isn't really an issue.
 
Well, I didn't get as much done as I wanted to tonight, but I got my res and part of my case modded. I couldn't start until later, but I should have more done tomorrow with it. Anyway, on with the pictures:

My rad, 77 Bonneville w/ AC

1.jpg


Mr rad from a different angle.

2.jpg


Parts for my res (wish I could tell you the price... but the PVC cement leaked and got on my recept... and tools... no pretty... but it was only about 6 dollars total):

3.jpg


Working on my res (flash sucks)
4.jpg


Finished res! Adding some silicon around the in and out just to make them good and tight.

5.jpg



So, rad, case, and res together so far : 18 + 19 + 6 = 43 bucks! Not bad if I must say so myself!
 
cornelious0_0 said:
VERY nice idea using the PVC for the res.....dunno why I never would have thought of that. :D


Thanks! I had the idea in my head and worked out and zer0signal showed me one he had like it. I think it will work out real slick and should be easy to fill. I'm going to cut a hole in the top of the case and put the top of it out, so filling and bleeding shouldn't be a problem. And hey, if it gets hot, I'll just drop and ice cube in there! Convenient! Or... condensation... oh well!
 
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