Circular 4-Pin Power Connectors?

[King Icewind]

I'm looking for circular 4-pin power connectors. Orginally they are rectangle as every ones knows, but I will have an extension cable that's going to fit in cable sleeving. The 4 pin connectors will be disconnected quite a bit, as the cable is being run to another case. So I would like circular connectors to make it look better.

I've tried googling such a thing but haven't come across anything.

Thanks!

KI

 

[BillParrish]

Look for a "din" connector. Maybe "mini din" Watch the amperage rating for the pins. Most are signal level (low power) connectors but you should find something that will handle a few amps.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini-DIN_connector#4-pin


Looks like pins on these are typically rated at 2A @ 12Vdc.

If you need more go to Mouser or Digikey and look for Amp circular connectors.

If you still have trouble post back with exactly what you are connecting, (so I can guess at amperage) some idea of the size and color desired and how important, and the method of secureing ( plug in, snap lock, twist lock, threaded ) etc and if you want inline for both male and female or if the "other' end might be a bulkhead type you could mount in a hole drilled in the chassis. Later tonight I will see what I can find for you that can easily be net ordered. Oh - and if soldering is an option you can deal with.

hmm if you are really extending a power supply molex to anything of decent current draw forget the "mini-din" and go for AMP circular or just circular power connector . ( you could safely use a connector rated less than the power supply rails if you fused the power leads with fuses at or slightly below the contact ratings.

 

[King Icewind]

Look for a "din" connector. Maybe "mini din" Watch the amperage rating for the pins. Most are signal level (low power) connectors but you should find something that will handle a few amps.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini-DIN_connect.or#4-pin


Looks like pins on these are typically rated at 2A @ 12Vdc.

If you need more go to Mouser or Digikey and look for Amp circular connectors.

If you still have trouble post back with exactly what you are connecting, (so I can guess at amperage) some idea of the size and color desired and how important, and the method of secureing ( plug in, snap lock, twist lock, threaded ) etc and if you want inline for both male and female or if the "other' end might be a bulkhead type you could mount in a hole drilled in the chassis. Later tonight I will see what I can find for you that can easily be net ordered. Oh - and if soldering is an option you can deal with.

hmm if you are really extending a power supply molex to anything of decent current draw forget the "mini-din" and go for AMP circular or just circular power connector . ( you could safely use a connector rated less than the power supply rails if you fused the power leads with fuses at or slightly below the contact ratings.

Ill be connecting....

At least 8 fans, possibly a few more

A watercooling pump which I believe is 12v

A fan controller for 6 fans.

Here's what I'm doing, http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1527408

Thanks Bill, you the man!

 

[BillParrish]

Will take a look later and see what I can find I gotcha remote WC box.

Will be much later, 10-11pm as I am taking advantge of long day to do some yard work. BBL.

 

[King Icewind]

Thought I would add, I'm not opposed to soldering or anything.

It might just be easier to go with a square 4 pin. I'm not sure how much is involved with the circular connectors. Yes I know I'm picky

Also the next obstacle is finding a long enough molecular cable. I'm thinking that at least 3 feet should be good...? Not sure if there is limit on size for these kind of cables?

Ill keep looking...not much today while im waiting in line for the tower of terror lol. Thanks.

KI

EDIT: I guess I would actually need 2 cables (connect together in the middle). Unless I have one of the connections connected to the case.

 

[xlt92explorer]

How about something like this?

http://www.sunrom.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=592

 

[King Icewind]

Honestly I dont know if that would work. It looks like it would, however it looks a little heavy and bulky. Also I'm not sure about voltage.


Thanks

KI

 

[BillParrish]

That will work, I have used them before. Its not as big as it looks the business end is about the size of a dime. Used for CB microphones and a lot of other all round uses. Not sure of the current ratings, easily handle 12V. It may be a winner, cause per below at best 4A per conductor and you just cant get but so small and still carry that current. But I will try and find a few more alternatives.

BTW you really dont need (I think) 4 pin, everything you want to run is +12.

8 screaming 38mm thick fans would run 4A total (.5A /fan)
MCP655 pump runs 2A so say 3A
Fan controller uses nothing to speak of so say 1 A.

So current demand is a wildly overestimated 8A.

Really only need +12 and ground so 2 pins all that is required but a 4 pin connector would allow a lower current rating per pin if 2 pins ground and 2 pins +12 need 4A per pin @12V .

molecular cable

I dont know what that means. I would not want to use anything less that 20AWG wire and stranded for flexability, should be able to find some nice black jacketed stuff somewhere.
=========
off to look see.

 

[King Icewind]

Yea sorry about the molecular part. I meant molex, but my Droid doesn't really like that word (auto correct).

With the piece mentioned, its easily assembled (cable/connections, soldering)? I've never really done anything like this except simple cutting, matching wires, and using some electrical tape.

Thanks, everyone.

KI

 

[BillParrish]

Look at the bottom of this page, this stuff is about the size of a keyboard PS2 connector and the 4 pin version handles 7.5 A per pin, Widely used as printer and laptop power cables. There is a panel mount and inline/cable mounted male and females
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kycon/KPPX-3P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu2f9RNbWupYkNr0fHsmTTdR7blFGXtnvQ=

here is the data sheet with dimensions.
http://alameda.kycon.com/Catalog_PDF/KPPX_KPJX.pdf

Panel mount socket 4 pin (drawing K)
806-KPJX-PM-4S

Cable mount socket (drawing M)
806-KPJX-CM-4S

Cable mount plug (drawing L)
806-KPPX-4P
http://alameda.kycon.com/Catalog_PDF/KPPX Assembly instruction.pdf

Frankly I dont see any sense looking further. Not too pricey and "standard" computer "look" and size. Which actually could be an issue if someone plugs a laptop into your WC connection but thats pretty unlikely. Still a unique connector like the one in the post above (which has an inline female available too. ) does have the very postive screw locking and distinctive non-computer look. They are not much bigger than below and you could maybe find them at radio shack. They used to sell them, not sure now.

Manuf recommend 18AWG wire for the connectors I found and I agree so look for some "4 conductor 18 AWG jacketed " wire should not be hard to find and on the datasheet above there is a hot link to get the assembly instructions. You might want individual wires and sleeve it yourself as most stuff is going to have printing on the jacket. Hmmm chop up a replacement Power Supply cable maybe but I think the outer jacket will be too thick for the connector I recommended, ok for the other. For my recommended connectors you want a thin jacket.


It will require some steely eyed soldering as it is going to be tight and a short will be a very bad thing. Heatshrink over the hot leads if room permits.

--------------------
Honestly the price and the postive locking of the shell connector in the previous post really appeals to me plus you drill one hole in your WC chassis and boom, nice and neat. I dont like connectors in the middle of a cable so when you unplug it you have tails hanging everwhere. Panel mount for the one I found is little trickier. Both will take a good sized bit that most likely you dont already have. It seems it allways works that way....

But hey your stuff, your dream. I think these are about the two best alternatives you are going to run across.

 

[BillParrish]

buy a cheap iron (25W range) and look at some youtube "how tos" practice on some bits of wire etc. Its something you can teach yourself in an hour and comes in handy anytime you mess with wires, speakers, car, computer. But 2 of everthing, You will melt the plastic of the connector on the first try, its almost required. Trick is (and you will understand after looking at video) tin the wire, tin the pin on the connector - careful just a split second to get some solder in the U shaped pin/contact. Then postion the wire pressing on the solder in the U shaped contact, get it all lined up so when solder remelts the wire will fall down into postion you want it (3 hands are very handy) so holding the wire in postion and pressing the wire down onto the solder in the U contact. just touch the iron for a second or two to reflow the solder and let the wire "sink" into the U and instantly remove the heat but dont jiggle anything. Takes some practice but its not really hard. watch out for stray 'strands" of wire shorting things out.

The "shell" connector first recommended will have more room to work. More and more I think that is the kind of thing you need.

If you google "CB mic connector" you get a zillion hits, Really not much larger than what I found and more room to work and accomodates wider range of wire/cable.

----------- OK for all the time and effort soldering buying shit and etc. etc. - forget it,

Just buy one of these and cut it in the middle.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/133705-REG/Bescor_XLR10MF_XLR_10MF_4_pin_XLR_Male.html

The "shell" connector in post above is a Screw on XLR connector. If you shop around I am sure you can find something like the power cable cheaper but it is really well made and uses 16 Guage wire so it will most certainly do the job and then some. $25 bucks + shipping, cut the sucker in the middle and strip out the wires and make up a color code scheme so both ends get connected (wire nuts - the small gray size) where you want.

 

[King Icewind]

Wow thanks Bill, probably would never have found that, however I have one last question...

How do I connect it to my powersupply? A simple splicing of cables for the molex connectors?

Thanks many times over, man!

 

[keenan]

They're a bit more pricey and a bit larger, but Neutrik SpeakOn connectors are great for DC power. They can handle up to 30A per pole (2, 4 and 8 pole versions), and are extremely well made with excellent locking mechanisms. You can get screw terminals on both the wire and panel connectors.

I love these. They're just great to use. I think you'd need NL4MP-ST for the chassis and NL4FC for the cable. Each mating pair is about $8.

Also the place to get this kind of audio/video gear and cabling is Markertek. They also sell cable bulk by the foot; a 12AWG speaker cable like this one at $0.44/ft would be perfect.

How do I connect it to my powersupply? A simple splicing of cables for the molex connectors?

Yup. Just make sure you match the ends up. I would suggest buying a cheapie multimeter to test your cabling job end to end. Harbor Freight sells one for $4 that will do the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html

 

[BillParrish]

As a former DC to DC telco power guy those are rocking, definitely very very nice stuff and the "little larger" would make soldering easier. Top of the line gear that. The postive locking is much better than the "snap fit" of the ones I recommended and almost as good as the screw on. Attractive too.

I really like the idea of panel mounting the "receiving" connector in the WCing box. So much cleaner than a connector in the middle.

How do I connect it to my powersupply? A simple splicing of cables for the molex connectors?

Yep.

A decent quck and dirty way would be to find/buy a molex Y adapter for about $3 and cut one of the "top" ends of the Y off, that way you dont loose the molex you are connecting to, as one female end of the Y "top" is still there for use and you have the wires loose from the other Y "top" ready to splice.

Remember the YELLOW wire is the +12 the red is +5 and I dont think you need it but you could wire it over if you wanted, no law against it but I would not bother as the fan controller eliminates any need to have +5 - if for instance you wanted to 7V the fans. So I would just use yellow and black. If you got another Y and used it at the other end but cut off the "bottom" of the Y and spliced wires in your fanbox you would have two molexes availble inside that chassis. Put a small wire nut on the unused red +5 or heat shrink so that there is absolutely no way the end of the cut wire can touch metal and cause a short.

Off the top of my head - I would attach my new cable wires to the yellow and black, and since the connector/new cable would have 4 wires in it choose two wires/colors to go to yellow and two others to go to black. I would use small wire nuts to make the splice or barrel chrimp splices or best would be to solder and heatshrink. I would drop the wires down behind the motherboard tray so they are hidden on the right side behind the motherboard tray and the right side panel. You then could then snake the cable down towards the bottom of the computer chassis below the board where another hole would let the cable into the main compartment and then another hole drilled to let it out the bottom rear. Simple rubber grometts used on all holes and they are easy to find at hardware store. See what diameter the cable you end up using will be and buy grommets and use drill for holes to just barely let the cable go through. This will also provide strain relief with the multiple bends but stilll leave some extra cable inside the computer case (dont pull eveything taut) so if you yank hard on your new cabling you dont pull the splices loose. If you can find a grommet that the wire will just barely, maybe even have to spit on the wire to get it to go through the grommets while pulling with needle nose pliers - would be ideal.

Oh and if you buy a premade cable and cut it, if it has a braided copper wire sheild, you will know it when you see it, attach it to the ground wires at both ends.