check my order from McMaster-Carr please

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Dr.House

Weaksauce
Joined
Feb 24, 2006
Messages
107
Purpose is to order tubing and a ball valve for draining on a 1/2" loop. I will probably get poly barb T's later on or elsewhere. Also I did a search but couldn't find a quick answer as to if brass would be safe in a loop with copper? I am assuming it is, but can never be too safe. the tubing will fit onto the barb end of the brass hose fitting and the thread will screw into the ball valve. I will probably add a small section of open hose to the end of the ball valve so it can flow better into a bucket or what have you. Also some of this stuff you have to buy in bulk like the brass hose fitting barb, do you think it would be cheaper to get it and a ball valve at home depot or something in a single package? I doubt it would be much cheaper even if it's possible, but I'm always open to suggestions or better ideas none the less.

Item#46055K21
Polypropylene Ball Valve with Assembly Nut 1/2" NPT Female Connection

Item#5346K25
Brass Hose Fitting Barb X Male Pipe for 1/2" Hose Id, 1/2" Pipe, Packs of 10

Item#5415K11
Worm-Drive Hose Clamp W/Zinc-Pltd Stl Screw 7/16" To 25/32" Clamp Id Range, 1/2" Band Width,

Packs of 10

Item#5233K43
Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing 7/16" Id, 9/16" Od, 1/16" Wall Thickness

Thank you for the assistance.
 
Should you not get 1/2" ID hose if you're getting barbs made for that size?
 
7/16" will work with 1/2" it's just little tighter is all. half of 16 is 8, so that's almost 1/2".
 
the 7/16 will fit on the 1/2. It's pretty damn close, and you just heat it up and you have a great fit on it. Lots of poeple like it.
 
Went to Home depot for fun to look at their plumbing section. I found a 3/8" quick disconnect ball valve with a 3/8" mip. I also found a 1/2" barb to 3/8" mip as well. Now how to connect them? I saw a 3/8" fip/fip brass coupler and figured why not. I didn't buy these parts just tested them there and wasn't to happy with the results. Basically neither part would screw in all the way to the coupler they would screw in easily then tighten up and would not go any further with half the threading sticking out on each.

Although it may have been the coupler was inapropriate, I still have questions regarding this experiment.

1> Would the idea work in the first place?
2> is it pretty when the threads are still sticking out like that or would it still work and be water tight if it was screwed in very tight and teflon tape used?
3> I assume you want to put an o-ring at the base of the threaded mip? Do you use a 3/8" o-ring for a 3/8" mip or a 1/2" o-ring. The 3/8" would stretch no problem not sure how much you want it stressed though? Also do you try to get the o-ring all the way to the hexagon base of the thread where the barb is on the opposite side or is it okay to leave it in the last thread groove? It doesn't really want to stay absolutely flat against the base and has a tendency for a small section to stay stuck on the threaded area just above the base.

#3 I'm not even sure thats what you are supposed to do anyway? And the O-ring did not interfere with the coupler it did not even get that far in.

Any advice or ideas on doing this better would be apreciated. Reason I tried this is I don't want a PVC ball valve almost the size of a pump in the case unless there is no better way.

Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds like they were using NPT threads. They are angled so that more surface area makes contact when they are tightened down. If you were just hand tightning these then you were not getting a good seal. These require a few turns past hand tight minimum. They also recommend using teflon tape to insure a good seal. Personally I think these types of fittings are too big and bulky and will look out of place in a watercooling setup. I'd stick with mcmaster carr and get all plastic if you can. Lighter and just looks like it belongs compared to metals. I've ordered from mcmaster carr a bunch of times and they always come through with quality stuff that I can't find anywhere else.
 
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