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Can U guys help a Noob

A

awsomaha

n00b
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
28
First of all I would like to say thanks to everyone. I have browsed these forums quite often, and gained a lot of knowledge. Okay, now for my questions.....

1.) I just installed my first water cooler, (TT bigwater) and I was curious how you get all the air out? I have it running, and the coolant it just a little above the low line, so how can I get more in?

2.) This might seem like a stupid question but how can I tell that all the air bubbles are gone? :eek:

3.) Last question, (at least for now), how long to I let it run the drip test? I was thinking about 18hrs, is this long enough?

Thank you very much in advance..... :D
 
1) If its a resevoir it tends to work itself out, with a couple of nudges and a couple tilts of hte case.

2) You can tell there are no bubbles, when you no longer see bubbles

3) I aim for 24hrs normally, but basically its whatever you feel comfortable with.
 
Bah...if you have good clamps on your tubing what is there to worry about? I sell the rad I use so I trust it and the res/pump are one piece that sit on the bottom of my case, even if it did leak it would do no harm. :D
 
2Fresh said:
Bah...if you have good clamps on your tubing what is there to worry about? I sell the rad I use so I trust it and the res/pump are one piece that sit on the bottom of my case, even if it did leak it would do no harm. :D
Click to expand...

Yaa, there isn't much pressure in those watercooling systems...maybe 3psi at the most..correct me if I'm wrong.

And if you use the proper coolant, it shouldn't be electricaly conductive anyways..knock on wood.

With regards to getting air out of your system, I was able to turn the case this way and that with keeping my external Koolance upright to work out the pockets of air. I'm not sure if it will work for you and your internal bigwater system.
 
I always jsut flipped my case every which way till most of them came out..Then I would leave the top off my res for a while.
 
Sorry Hate_bot , but I am with 2Fresh. It is really lame for me not to leak test, but I am to lazy. Besides it sucks putting the system together than trying to fit it in the case after a 24 hour test.. Maybe I have just been lucky but non of the h20 cooled systems I have assembled have leaked. Granted I dont mass produce them.....
 
i don't go for 24 hrs, when i leak test, but i most certainly do.

i consider my time to be worth about $20/hr (for some strange reason) and when it comes time to wait a few hours to make sure that my system is not going to leak, i have no issue with putting in 2 hrs to safeguard about $1000 of core equipment.

i typically wrap connections in pieces of scrap inkjet printoffs. if the ink doesn't run, then i can be pretty sure that there was no water leak during my test period.

i waterproof my PCBs, i use distilled water and non-conductive coolant additive, i use oversized hose barbs, i use metal gear clamps, i use good thread sealant, i use 600 PSI rated valves.

i still test everything out though.

i guess that i just don't have much confidence in my workmanship, but i don't COUNT on anything i build working correctly, that could kill me or my computer.

same reason that i do not work on my car, really..................
 
you can usually tell by your connections if a system is going to leak, however the reason I leak test is not that i doubt my clamps, you just cant be sure about everything else.

I betcha that guy who got a defective waterblock from dangerden, slapped it in, checked all his hoses and then installed his system and didnt leak test is regretting it right now.
 
BigTaf said:
you can usually tell by your connections if a system is going to leak, however the reason I leak test is not that i doubt my clamps, you just cant be sure about everything else.

I betcha that guy who got a defective waterblock from dangerden, slapped it in, checked all his hoses and then installed his system and didnt leak test is regretting it right now.
Click to expand...

i thought that was a D-tek............maybe we are thinking about dffferent people though.

but that is a good point, the o-rings and barbs might not quite be up to snuff and then could be a source of leakag as well......

that's probably why some companies explicitly say that they leak test every block before shipping it.
 
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