Can this be fixed? (12v short mosfet) aourus 1080ti extreme edition

[Xeonophon]

Is the pcb to burt to try replace mosfet?
Could a professional repair shop do it?

 

[Darunion]

Honestly whoever removed it from the board looks like they did even more damage, the vias look shot on the bottom left pad. And i cant tell if traces are correctly going to the pads or there is copper foil folder over making contact.

It is possible to repair but not at a high reliability and it may not be the part that failed, it may have a failure downstream from that causing the high current flow through it.

 

[Xeonophon]

Honestly whoever removed it from the board looks like they did even more damage, the vias look shot on the bottom left pad. And i cant tell if traces are correctly going to the pads or there is copper foil folder over making contact.

It is possible to repair but not at a high reliability and it may not be the part that failed, it may have a failure downstream from that causing the high current flow through it.

I could only find this part that I could see was burnt. So when I removed it, with a heat gun, it was fused to the pcb and pulled a bit off

 

[SamuelL421]

I'd try to determine if there are other shorts before doing anything else, you could spend a lot of time on this only to find there is another issue.

If you wanted to get really nuts you could find an external VRM board and just bypass all the power delivery on the GPU. They're made for LN2 / extreme oc setups but there's no reason you couldn't install one and set it for "normal" power delivery. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-100-UV-0600-BR-EPOWER-V/dp/B081BCX5KJ
There are probably cheaper options, I just searched Amazon out of curiosity and saw that EVGA board. Not advocating you do this, but it would be a fun project (if you're into this sort of thing).

 

[Darunion]

I could only find this part that I could see was burnt. So when I removed it, with a heat gun, it was fused to the pcb and pulled a bit off

So what happened was the solder under the fet was not at melting temperature but the heat was applied long enough to break down the glue that holds the copper foil to the pcb.

My point was that there seems to be damage done to the pcb that is not fixable and that the FET may have been the failure point or there could be something shorted after it or shorted the gate of it.

The gate has a low level ESD (static discharge) protection so even improper handling of that board could damage it.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi-Fairchild/FDMF6823C?qs=E4nhK6H/GHvLOeJ2d9a16A==

I believe this is the part, but also is not in stock anywhere that is authorized distribution and you are looking at a 55week manufacturer lead time unless you are fine taking risks buying from gray market / aliexpress.

But honestly it looks like the damage to the board is pretty bad.

 

[RazorWind]

Just a note, the component that's missing here is a power stage IC, and not a FET. It contains the two large FETs for this phase, but it also contains a bunch of other stuff. There is a difference, and it does matter.

Now that the dead power stage is removed, is the short cleared? If so, the board will probably work as it is.

It's a pretty common mode of failure on graphics cards, where the high side FET melts and shorts the 12V input to the GPU. Frequently, the power supply will shut the system down before major secondary damage occurs, so you can remove the dead power stage and the card will work mostly normally afterwards.

I don't see a complete repair happening here. You might be able to solder a new one on there, it will be as much a matter of luck as anything else. Use a preheater in the future. If the damage we're looking at here is the result of a hamfisted attempt to remove the failed power stage, and not the original failure, a preheater probably would have gotten it off cleanly.

Edit: If you really used a heat gun to remove the dead power stage, you probably killed at least the ones next to it in the process. You'll very likely need to replace all of them before the board will work reliably.

 

[Xeonophon]

Just a note, the component that's missing here is a power stage IC, and not a FET. It contains the two large FETs for this phase, but it also contains a bunch of other stuff. There is a difference, and it does matter.

Now that the dead power stage is removed, is the short cleared? If so, the board will probably work as it is.

It's a pretty common mode of failure on graphics cards, where the high side FET melts and shorts the 12V input to the GPU. Frequently, the power supply will shut the system down before major secondary damage occurs, so you can remove the dead power stage and the card will work mostly normally afterwards.

I don't see a complete repair happening here. You might be able to solder a new one on there, it will be as much a matter of luck as anything else. Use a preheater in the future. If the damage we're looking at here is the result of a hamfisted attempt to remove the failed power stage, and not the original failure, a preheater probably would have gotten it off cleanly.

Edit: If you really used a heat gun to remove the dead power stage, you probably killed at least the ones next to it in the process. You'll very likely need to replace all of them before the board will work reliably.

I just checked and the short is gone!
I covered all the nearby componets to prevent the heat damage. Will try plug it in to see if it works

 

[Xeonophon]

I just checked and the short is gone!
I covered all the nearby componets to prevent the heat damage. Will try plug it in to see if it works

Holy sh*t! It works
What does this mean for the gpu performance now? Can it game or will it just blow up any second?

 

[RazorWind]

Chances are, you'll have another power stage fail pretty quickly. Even if you covered the other ones up, you probably damaged them if you really did use a heat gun on it, and they were likely damaged to begin with, if you had one fail.

Still, you should be able to play games. The power monitoring may be off, so you may find that the boost behavior behaves differently, but it should work, generally speaking.

 

[Xeonophon]

Chances are, you'll have another power stage fail pretty quickly. Even if you covered the other ones up, you probably damaged them if you really did use a heat gun on it, and they were likely damaged to begin with, if you had one fail.

Still, you should be able to play games. The power monitoring may be off, so you may find that the boost behavior behaves differently, but it should work, generally speaking.

Let's see how far I get with it
Thanks for the help, it was very useful

 

[DanNeely]

You may want to underclock/undervolt your card as a precautionary measure. Even if you avoided damaging any other power components, you card is no longer able to deliver as much power as the board designers intended. As a result it's working the remainder harder as a result.