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Can I upgrade this?

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lazerxo

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Editing thread for a more direct question, I just took my motherboard out etc and I need to know if a new motherboard / PSU would fit inside of this case.e case,

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153 Decided to order a new case, thanks everyone for helping.



New parts as reccomended by someone who replied
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125363
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152035
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231426
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138352
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072I

I have a budget of $650 to build a machine for high fps gaming while streaming using a very cpu-heavy flash encoding process
 
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Probably. Odds are it uses mATX board, and ATX PSU. Atleast every Gateway I have seen used an mATX or ATX board and PSU.
 
Thanks :p I know nothing at all about computers besides of how to use them, im clueless what it comes to putting them together / parts etc :(
 
I wouldn't recommend using it.

The case, as currently configured, has no intake fans and can only use a 92mm fan (along with the PSU fan) as the exhaust. Newer, more power-hungry parts (compared to what was originally in that case) may cause the internal temperatures to rise significantly, which reduces the lifespan and efficiency of your parts over the long run.

The best way (I could think of) to "fix" this case is to remove the bottom drive cage to add a 120mm front-mounted fan (as an intake fan) and modify the side panel to accept a 120mm or 140mm fan (as a second intake fan). Given your inexperience, however, that may be more trouble than it's worth.
 
I think you'll be better off spending ~$50 on a new case.
 
if you are upgrading your motherboard, you are most likely upgrading CPU ram with it, which means you may as well buy a new case to go along.

make sure to post back here before purchasing what you want so you can have us pick apart your parts list and make sure you don't buy bad components. good luck!
 
You shouldn't use the case. I still stand by what I said earlier.

I'll go one step further: You shouldn't go with those parts.

- The processor and video card are last-gen parts. You can grab their current-gen equivalents for around the same price, if not for less.

- You chose an ATX motherboard. The case is designed for micro-ATX boards.

- The power supply is not one I'd recommend. You're not going to find a quality PSU of over 600 watts for less than $60. Truth be told, you don't need a 600-watt power supply for your proposed system.

- The RAM is the only "good" choice amongst those parts.
 
You shouldn't use the case. I still stand by what I said earlier.

I'll go one step further: You shouldn't go with those parts.

- The processor and video card are last-gen parts. You can grab their current-gen equivalents for around the same price, if not for less.

- You chose an ATX motherboard. The case is designed for micro-ATX boards.

- The power supply is not one I'd recommend. You're not going to find a quality PSU of over 600 watts for less than $60. Truth be told, you don't need a 600-watt power supply for your proposed system.

- The RAM is the only "good" choice amongst those parts.
Which processor / video card could I use for the same price for less or the same? Newegg if possible, thanks.
 
Which processor / video card could I use for the same price for less or the same? Newegg if possible, thanks.

None, I'm afraid. I agree with tiraides about not recommending the continued use of that old case any longer. Of the current-gen parts available, the only parts that I would have recommended would not have been a large enough improvement in real-world performance to justify their costs (this means that you would get back far less in performance than the amount of money that you would have spent, even though they seem inexpensive on the surface). What's more, that old case is severely cramped on the inside, especially from front to rear, that the only GPUs that would have fit inside that old case would not have been much if any improvement over any existing GPU that might have been inside that Gateway system at the time that it was brand-new.

So in other words, I'd strongly recommend replacing that case altogether before you upgrade anything else.
 
None, I'm afraid. I agree with tiraides about not recommending the continued use of that old case any longer. Of the current-gen parts available, the only parts that I would have recommended would not have been a large enough improvement in real-world performance to justify their costs (this means that you would get back far less in performance than the amount of money that you would have spent, even though they seem inexpensive on the surface). What's more, that old case is severely cramped on the inside, especially from front to rear, that the only GPUs that would have fit inside that old case would not have been much if any improvement over any existing GPU that might have been inside that Gateway system at the time that it was brand-new.

So in other words, I'd strongly recommend replacing that case altogether before you upgrade anything else.

Check original post again please :p
 
Check original post again please :p

Oh, I didn't see that at first. The case that you linked to is okay for the price, but it has no front USB 3.0 ports. (The front USB ports are only USB 2.0 compliant.) In addition, the front-to-rear space in that case is a bit tight for longer graphics cards.

Also, I wouldn't spend that kind of money on last-generation hardware (especially the GPU): At $237 shipped, that GTX 560 Ti is now way overpriced for an old-generation GPU with only 1GB of VRAM when a better choice would have been a GTX 660 or a Radeon HD 7870 with 2GB of VRAM.
 
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Oh, I didn't see that at first. The case that you linked to is okay for the price, but it has no front USB 3.0 ports. (The front USB ports are only USB 2.0 compliant.) In addition, the front-to-rear space in that case is a bit tight for longer graphics cards.
Thanks :) I can't get a better case :/ too tight on budget was supposed to only spend 600$
 
Oh, I didn't see that at first. The case that you linked to is okay for the price, but it has no front USB 3.0 ports. (The front USB ports are only USB 2.0 compliant.) In addition, the front-to-rear space in that case is a bit tight for longer graphics cards.

Also, I wouldn't spend that kind of money on last-generation hardware (especially the GPU): At $237 shipped, that GTX 560 Ti is now way overpriced for an old-generation GPU with only 1GB of VRAM when a better choice would have been a GTX 660 or a Radeon HD 7870 with 2GB of VRAM.

The OP's requirements are this:

Play WoW/League of Legends at the highest quality at 60 FPS and the ability to stream using a very CPU-heavy flash encoding process for $650.

He doesn't need USB 3.0 ports, there is enough room in that case for the parts listed.

As for the 660 being an upgrade... it is a 12% downgrade in anti-aliasing, which means his fps would suffer at a high resolution. I would never recommend a gamer/streamer going to a 660 over a 560ti, and considering the only graphics he has now are on board and he can't even run on the lowest settings with a decent fps, the 560ti is an outrageous upgrade. It is well-known as the best graphics card in this price bracket, and considering that EVGA has the trade-in program, it will always trump Radeon (besides the fact that most people prefer nVidia to Radeon for good reason). The first great upgrade to the 560ti is the 670, any enthusiast/pro-gamer knows this.

As for the processor, like I said, he's going to be streaming using flash encoding. The Ivy Bridge doesn't even come CLOSE to dispersing heat as well as the Sandy Bridge CPU's. Both are quad core and can be overclocked to nearly the same GHz. The reason I chose an SB quad core as opposed to the newer IB is because he is going to be putting constant pressure on it. The SB will last longer and the IB isn't enough of an upgrade to make up for that. Unless he could afford going up another $100 in budget, I stick by my recommendation, and someone as knowledgeable as you should know that SB > IB when it comes to heat and stress.
 
The OP's requirements are this:

Play WoW/League of Legends at the highest quality at 60 FPS and the ability to stream using a very CPU-heavy flash encoding process for $650.

He doesn't need USB 3.0 ports, there is enough room in that case for the parts listed.

As for the 660 being an upgrade... it is a 12% downgrade in anti-aliasing, which means his fps would suffer at a high resolution. I would never recommend a gamer/streamer going to a 660 over a 560ti, and considering the only graphics he has now are on board and he can't even run on the lowest settings with a decent fps, the 560ti is an outrageous upgrade. It is well-known as the best graphics card in this price bracket, and considering that EVGA has the trade-in program, it will always trump Radeon (besides the fact that most people prefer nVidia to Radeon for good reason). The first great upgrade to the 560ti is the 670, any enthusiast/pro-gamer knows this.

As for the processor, like I said, he's going to be streaming using flash encoding. The Ivy Bridge doesn't even come CLOSE to dispersing heat as well as the Sandy Bridge CPU's. Both are quad core and can be overclocked to nearly the same GHz. The reason I chose an SB quad core as opposed to the newer IB is because he is going to be putting constant pressure on it. The SB will last longer and the IB isn't enough of an upgrade to make up for that. Unless he could afford going up another $100 in budget, I stick by my recommendation, and someone as knowledgeable as you should know that SB > IB when it comes to heat and stress.

The problem with that particular GTX 560 Ti is that its memory bandwidth is actually lower than that of the GTX 660. The VRAM on that particular GTX 560 Ti is at its stock 4GHz effective, which gives it a memory throughput of only 128 GB/s (versus 144 GB/s on the GTX 660). In addition, it is now (as I stated) way overpriced for a GPU that has only 1GB total VRAM. And although the newer GPU might seem like a downgrade based on GPU performance alone, playng such a game at its highest setting at that particular frame rate could eat up more than the GTX 560 Ti's fixed 1GB of VRAM - and if a game runs out of dedicated video RAM, it will try to steal system RAM to the point when the game can no longer deliver playable frame rates at all! (And by rule, system RAM is always far slower than dedicated video RAM on the higher-end graphics cards.)
 
I pretty much agree with tiraides and E4g1e, especially on the PSU: That's a fantastically shitty PSU that no one with an ounce of PSU knowledge would ever recommend. Also, last I checked in your other build thread, you mentioned not having a legal copy of Windows 7. So where's that legal copy in your build?

Also from that thread, since you don't know what overclocking is and are relatively new to the PC hardware world, I don't see a good reason to recommend a K series CPU, especially considering your tight budget.

Since this thread is getting a bit confusing as hell, OP, please re-answer the stickied "ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS FIRST!" so that we can make sure that everything is right. As it stands now, DO NOT BUY ANYTHING YOU HAVE LISTED IN YOUR OP!
 
I pretty much agree with tiraides and E4g1e, especially on the PSU: That's a fantastically shitty PSU that no one with an ounce of PSU knowledge would ever recommend. Also, last I checked in your other build thread, you mentioned not having a legal copy of Windows 7. So where's that legal copy in your build?

Also from that thread, since you don't know what overclocking is and are relatively new to the PC hardware world, I don't see a good reason to recommend a K series CPU, especially considering your tight budget.

Since this thread is getting a bit confusing as hell, OP, please re-answer the stickied "ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS FIRST!" so that we can make sure that everything is right. As it stands now, DO NOT BUY ANYTHING YOU HAVE LISTED IN YOUR OP!

I am re-using my hard drive which means I don't need a new windows right? And I really just wanna order my stuff I'm tired of waiting my old desktop is unusable now.
 
I am re-using my hard drive which means I don't need a new windows right?

In this case, then yes, you will still need a new legitimate copy of Windows. Originally installed OEM copies of Windows are now more or less permanently tied to the original motherboard, and changing the motherboard alone will trigger the reactivation process, which will fail if attempted online.

And don't ever mention using illegitimate (or illegal) copies of Windows in these forums again! Doing so will result in you being permanently banned from these forums.
 
In this case, then yes, you will still need a new legitimate copy of Windows. Originally installed OEM copies of Windows are now more or less permanently tied to the original motherboard, and changing the motherboard alone will trigger the reactivation process, which will fail if attempted online.
Can I use a legit installation CD Of windows and a windows acivator?
 
Can I use a legit installation CD Of windows and a windows acivator?

Don't ever mention Windows activators again - for the very same reason as the use of illegitimate copies of Windows.
In other words, the only legitimate way to get Windows on a new PC is to pay the full price for a new copy. Period.
 
it's not worth it im just gonna use windows + activator it retarded paying for something yu can get free.
 
it's not worth it im just gonna use windows + activator it retarded paying for something yu can get free.

In that case, then, good luck. We can no longer offer any help to you if you're going to go illegitimate. Nor can we help you any further if you're not going to listen to us more experienced users.
 
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In that case, then, good luck. We can no longer offer any help to you if you're going to go illegitimate. Nor can we help you any further if you're not going to listen to us more experienced users.

You guys don't understand I have a budget. I can't afford all of the best parts that you guys want me to get and I swapped out the power supply for http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031

ANd I just don't see the reason to go legitimate.
 
That's a start for a longer-lasting newer build. However, you still are going to use an OS illegitimately - and because of that, you're on your own from now on.

Can you please tell me why it matters? Why does it affect people on this forum If Im not using real windows? imo it shouldn't bother you if I use a legitimate version or not.
 
Can you please tell me why it matters? Why does it affect people on this forum If Im not using real windows? imo it shouldn't bother you if I use a legitimate version or not.

It does bother the rest of us. In fact, I knew a couple of people who actually got themselves kicked off the Internet permanently just for mentioning that they use illegitimate Windows. (Initially, they got themselves permanently banned from an Internet forum that they mentioned such a statement to, and then the forum administrators actually reported such illegal use to the authorities.)
 
It does bother the rest of us. In fact, I knew a couple of people who actually got themselves kicked off the Internet permanently just for mentioning that they use illegitimate Windows.[/QUOTE\]
I would've never known just by mentioning it, thank you for the warning.
 
You can afford a window license and a solid gaming platform with a $600 budget.
 
it's not worth it im just gonna use windows + activator it retarded paying for something yu can get free.

Yeah, that's called stealing. I can't believe people actually have to explain to you why pirating a OS is bad (hint: it's illegal) and why even if you do it, you shouldn't admit it on this forum.
 
I am locking this thread. No more discussion of illegal software.
 
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