Bubble trouble

mintos

Weaksauce
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
83
I switched from a res to a T line, but now I'm having trouble getting rid of bubbles in the rooms. If I leave the loop running, how long will it take for the bubbles to get out? Should I leave the cap off the fill port?

Please give some advise, thanks
 
T-lines take a long ass time AFAIK. Thats why I opted for a Micro-Res :D bled out in a matter of minutes.

Ah silence.;)
 
Tumble the case and guide the bubbles out. Turning the pump on and off to reveal bubbles then shutting it down and tumbling again to remove the bubbles until none can be found anymore does the trick. Spend an hour tumbling, save the couple of days of waiting for air to purge (if it will depending on the location of your T and flow of loop). Or get a res for extra clutter and possible gurgles :D
 
I let it run with the t-line opened while I cleaned up my mess [from building the computer]. In 1-1.5 hours it was fully bled.

I didnt tilt at all, and t-line was on a horizontal stretch of tube.
 
Put the reservoir back in. T-lines are ghetto. :p

The whole point of a T-line was to save space right? Why are people (not you :p) now telling people to get t-lines when they have the space?

Cheaper?
Performs better somehow?

Am I missing something?
 
cheaper

Sometimes easier to route the tubing.

a while back there were also problems with some reservoirs leaking and bad designs, not so much now.

You have a big powerful pump and it will push the air out quickly, as you reported, a smaller pump can take much longer and depending on your rad placement it can be a pain. I spent a couple of hours tilting my old school system back and forth sideways etc till my arm ached and still saw bubbles for a week. I finally just let it do its thing and they worked their way out.

and sometimes it depends on space, you have a very nice big case and not a whole lot of stuff in it, add a raid array, tape drive , kitchen sink and it can get bit tight :D

I used to not like a reservoir, until I used one, they are a convenience item only. But if putting one in resulted a problem or caused me time and too much effort I would go T line in a second.
 
It takes my small T-line about 2 hours to work the major bubbles out of the loop. However I have a lot of microbubbles for a lot longer. If you let it run overnight then it should be clear in the morning. (Make sure the T-line is full though, because the water level will drop as the microbubbles are forced out)
 
I don't really like reserviors, but I opted to put one in during my recent installation because no matter what I did, I couldn't get the T-Line to bleed all the air out. Using the Swiftech Micro-Res I was able to bleed all the air out of my system in 20 minutes or something like that.
 
here's an idea i've read about here ,get a long zip tie (wire tie )and put it in the tee line . the zip tie has to be longer than the tee line . all you need now is time .the bubbles will travel up the zip tie and byebye.might take a couple of days. no muss no fuss
 
here's an idea i've read about here ,get a long zip tie (wire tie )and put it in the tee line . the zip tie has to be longer than the tee line . all you need now is time .the bubbles will travel up the zip tie and byebye.might take a couple of days. no muss no fuss

I used a straw for the same thing. It really didn't work all that well.
 
Well it was something I'd read, it was a thought. Happy fourth

Who knows? The zip tie could work better than the straw did.

T-lines take a long ass time AFAIK. Thats why I opted for a Micro-Res :D bled out in a matter of minutes.

Ah silence.;)

Well I'm water cooled but my machine is far from silent. I can still hear the case fans and the south bridge chipset cooler is noisy as hell. So noisy that I am thinking about adding the south bridge to the loop via waterblock. The problem is that it's a pain in the ass, and I will have some possible clearance issues that may or may not be easily resolved due to the amount of cards that are in the way. Without my SAS controller it would probably be a non-issue since my video cards are now single slot solutions.
 
Well I'm water cooled but my machine is far from silent.

You need to fix that man! I'm running a tech station and can only hear my hard drives when they are crunching 0's and 1's. I suggest a northbridge block and all fans should be running at 7v max. You have good enough equipment to do that.
 
You need to fix that man! I'm running a tech station and can only hear my hard drives when they are crunching 0's and 1's. I suggest a northbridge block and all fans should be running at 7v max. You have good enough equipment to do that.

My north bridge is water cooled using a MCW30 waterblock. The chipset cooler I am referring to is the one on the south bridge. I am contemplating cooling that with a water block, but it looks like a potential pain in the ass to do. My fans however are running full speed. The Yate Loons 140mm fans are still quieter than the Antec Tri-Cools though. The Antec fans in the case are all setup for medium speed.
 
The Antec Fans on medium speed are LOUD. I couldn't stand them on anything but low. Now I have some Yate-Loons at 7V and it is even better.
 
The Antec Fans on medium speed are LOUD. I couldn't stand them on anything but low. Now I have some Yate-Loons at 7V and it is even better.

I was really amazed by the Yate Loons. I was hesitant about buying something so cheap but after so much praising, I never looked back. I loved the Scythe S-Flex fans up to that point and was quick to feel stupid about paying $15 a fan when I could get 4 for the same price that was quieter.

The only other fan that really does wonders is the Sharkoon Golfball 2000's. It was one of the two fans that topped Vapor's 25+ fan test roundup in terms of noise/performance for medium CFM. I bought 10 for about $15 a piece. The thing can seriously push a lot of air without the noise I'd expect but at the end of the day, I couldn't justify buying more when Yates were just almost as good at 1/4 the price.
 
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