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BigWater 745?

DFI Daishi said:
ehm......

the pump in an aquarium or pond is designed to be fitted with thread-on barb fittings, have hoses put onto and clamped onto those barb fittings, primed with water and then be plugged in. the pump them proceeds to pump until it is unplugged or fails.

the pump does not know or care if it's pumping through a fountain head directly, through filter media and back to the tank, driving a protein skimmer or whatever else. as long as you meet those first several conditions, it works. you also meet those conditions in a watercooled PC.

eheim makes pumps for innovatek and aqua-computers. asetek waterchill re-sells hydor pump in their kits. companies that make and sell pre-fab watercooling kits use aquarium pumps. why is it that end users should not do so themselves?

there are also standards which apply to tubing and fittings, as saberwolf pointed out. it's pretty much as basic as knowing that an AGP card will not fit into a PCI-E slot. if you can't figure out that a 1/2" outer diameter barb fitting is supposed to go inside of 1/2" inner diameter tubing, what are you doing poking around inside of a computer to begin with? the very name tells you what it is compatible with.

anyone feel like trying to put a square peg into a round hole while we're at it? i mean if everything requires documentation and support.

the fly of your pants is not documented or supported either. it is a really simple piece of equipment that is spectacularly easy to opperate. documentation and support is not needed. you needed to learn how to do it at one point, pretty much anyone you asked was able to answer your question, and you were able to do it from then on.

i would say the same goes here: it's a really simple question, which the salesperson at the aquarium store will be able to answer. hell, chances are they'll ask what kind of tubing and fittings you want in the hopes of adding to the sale.

Wasted a lot of breath there. I didn't say aquarium pumps weren't up to the task of PC cooling applications, I was simply pointing out the fallacy of his analogy.
 
I don't think you realize that pumps and other components have standards too. Whether its tubing size to specific pressure tolerances, you'll find that aquarium pumps and clamps are modular components as well. As the posts have pointed out, you won't be using 1/2" ID tubing on 3/8" barbs is analogous to not using a PCI-E slot for an AGP card.
 
I can see it now...

"My $135 Tt water kit hosed my $5,000 computer... *le sigh*."

Just a matter of time. My advice on water cooling has always been: if you're gonna do it, do it once, and do it RIGHT. Spending $135 to simply "experiment" like somebody mentioned previously is pretty pointless, especially since you know beforehand you'll get better performance with separate parts or even comparable performance with high-end air cooling...

I've been around Thermaltake products long enough to know that quality control clearly doesn't run very high and tech support is FAR from stellar.
 
takeabao said:
I can see it now...

"My $135 Tt water kit hosed my $5,000 computer... *le sigh*."

Just a matter of time. My advice on water cooling has always been: if you're gonna do it, do it once, and do it RIGHT. Spending $135 to simply "experiment" like somebody mentioned previously is pretty pointless, especially since you know beforehand you'll get better performance with separate parts or even comparable performance with high-end air cooling...

I've been around Thermaltake products long enough to know that quality control clearly doesn't run very high and tech support is FAR from stellar.

"My $27 watercooling killed my $5000 computer"
 
CoW]8(0) said:
So out of curosity, what system are you running?

If you're so against buying separate parts, I would assume you're running a Dell, Compaq, Gateway, or some other premade system. And I think I'll also assume you're running whatever graphics card it came with.

And we all know those easily outperform everything else.

I'm not sure if you're getting it. :p

I'm not against buying separate parts. You all are completely missing the point.

For someone new to this, for something new that I've never done before, I prefer to buy something that has installation instructions, warranty on the combination, support, etc. BECAUSE I'VE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. :rolleyes: It's MY preference, and the preference of other people as well. If water cooling turns out to be more of a hassle than it's worth, I'll go back to high-end air like I was running, but I'd rather not blow $250 finding that out! I've got no problem buying a better setup later if it looks like it will work well, but I'm not going to spend money to try something.

My system is a custom built box like 99% of the ones on here. 7900GT, 3800X2 @ 2.6, A8N SLi, etc.
 
fan_83 said:
to lopoetve : i am a newb at watercooling but even i could see that your post make no sense at all.. most of hte parts in your computer comes from different manufacturers and chances are, the designer of that component, is not designed to work with your specific combination at the outset, thats why there are standards to uphold

and if you are arguing the fact that the pieces are not meant designed as a kit from the outset, can i ask whether you upgrade your pc personally or do you bring it to a shop and tell them you want a better graphics card and leave it at that?
cos with you posting in this forum, means that you are interested in upgrading your system to get the best.. otehrwise you would only be in teh general hardware subforum, asking the peep here to spec you a system, if thats your line of thought, what are you doing in this section of the forum anyway? since you are not interested in getting the most bang for the buck, some proper research and some practical application of brainpower?

cos if you are arguing for custom desined, then i would suggest dell, monarch and so on or maybe alienware . after all, its the easiest and you are underwarrantte if your comp doesn;t work when you get it

just my 2 c

You don't get it. I've got experience working with separate componants, I've been building computers for 13 years. I've got ZERO experience with building watercooling setups. First PC I built was with instructions as a barebones kit. After that, I did it all from scratch. But that first time, I got a barebones kit to supplement the PC I was using, figured out how to install parts, get it all working, troubleshoot, etc, and ONLY then did I start building my main computer from scratch. (early 486 days). I didn't want to blow $3000 on something I didn't know how to do, so I spent less, learned, and THEN bought the best parts.
 
DFI Daishi said:
the fly of your pants is not documented or supported either. it is a really simple piece of equipment that is spectacularly easy to opperate. documentation and support is not needed. you needed to learn how to do it at one point, pretty much anyone you asked was able to answer your question, and you were able to do it from then on.

i would say the same goes here: it's a really simple question, which the salesperson at the aquarium store will be able to answer. hell, chances are they'll ask what kind of tubing and fittings you want in the hopes of adding to the sale.

Watercooling kits are not simple pieces of equipment, imho ;)

DFI Daishi said:
if you are a litterate individual who does a bit of research before you go out and buy things, the parts aren't random. there are industry specs for the fittings and tubing which allow the parts to inter-opperate and all parties involved follow those specs. it is easy to select parts that will work together.

work optimally? not quite as easy. that takes more reading. then again, the thermaltake bigwater doesn't opperate optimally either. in fact, i'm not sure that it's possible to do worse using repuatble DIY parts. so even if you don't put yourself together a master-grade system, you're not worse off for it as compared to getting a Tt kit.

i might add that this is significantly easier than selecting and fitting computer parts together. if you're thinking of watercooling, chances are that you own a custom PC. if you could sucessfully complete that task, why not the easier selection process for your cooling gear?

no support from the pump manufacturer, no. so how about the company selling the waterblocks and rad? you don't think they offer support?

I've looked through this forum many times considering the possibility of starting watercooling, and other than the fact that I'd need tubing, a res, blocks, and a pump, I ~still~ don't have a clue what the hell I'd do with them when they get here. Where do you put the res? What's the best order of things to have hooked up? Where do you stick the radiator? How do you get fans on it? Etc... The TT kit has that all taken care of, and gives me a place to start learning.

I've got 13 years of experience fitting PC parts together. I've never done water before, even in an aquarium.

takeabao said:
I can see it now...

"My $135 Tt water kit hosed my $5,000 computer... *le sigh*."

Just a matter of time. My advice on water cooling has always been: if you're gonna do it, do it once, and do it RIGHT. Spending $135 to simply "experiment" like somebody mentioned previously is pretty pointless, especially since you know beforehand you'll get better performance with separate parts or even comparable performance with high-end air cooling...

I've been around Thermaltake products long enough to know that quality control clearly doesn't run very high and tech support is FAR from stellar.

I've had bad luck strike computers plenty of times. Just the opportunity to upgrade. And if a part took others out with it, like a cooling kit, buy a better one.

My high end air cooling currently sucks balls, and I'm really tired of troubleshooting it (XP-120 with Panaflo fan, running 38c idle, 60c load). Almost anything would cool better than that.
 
lopoetve said:
I'm not against buying separate parts. You all are completely missing the point.

For someone new to this, for something new that I've never done before, I prefer to buy something that has installation instructions, warranty on the combination, support, etc. BECAUSE I'VE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. :rolleyes: It's MY preference, and the preference of other people as well. If water cooling turns out to be more of a hassle than it's worth, I'll go back to high-end air like I was running, but I'd rather not blow $250 finding that out! I've got no problem buying a better setup later if it looks like it will work well, but I'm not going to spend money to try something.

My system is a custom built box like 99% of the ones on here. 7900GT, 3800X2 @ 2.6, A8N SLi, etc.

You don't need to spend $250 on air. As I said, I could spend $150 and build a loop that would blow away the 745. The point is, if you need documentation and support on watercooling, you shouldn't be doing it at all.

I've looked through this forum many times considering the possibility of starting watercooling, and other than the fact that I'd need tubing, a res, blocks, and a pump, I ~still~ don't have a clue what the hell I'd do with them when they get here. Where do you put the res? What's the best order of things to have hooked up? Where do you stick the radiator? How do you get fans on it? Etc... The TT kit has that all taken care of, and gives me a place to start learning.

Do research, and if you still can't figure it out purchase a gun. ;)
 
sabrewolf732 said:
You don't need to spend $250 on air. As I said, I could spend $150 and build a loop that would blow away the 745. The point is, if you need documentation and support on watercooling, you shouldn't be doing it at all.



Do research, and if you still can't figure it out purchase a gun. ;)


Purchase a gun and come after you? :D
 
sabrewolf732 said:
You don't need to spend $250 on air. As I said, I could spend $150 and build a loop that would blow away the 745. The point is, if you need documentation and support on watercooling, you shouldn't be doing it at all.



Do research, and if you still can't figure it out purchase a gun. ;)

no, I'm talking about $250 on water.

So, you didn't need documentation the first time you did it? You just magically figured it out?

I AM doing research. By buying a cheaper kit, trying it, and learning from there. No point in blowing money if the added mess of dealing with water cooling isn't going to be worth it.
 
sabrewolf732 said:
As I said, I could spend $150 and build a loop that would blow away the 745.

You know, people keep slinging this claim around, I'd be interested to actually see it done.. some publisheable, applicable results in other words.

They always seem to also conveniently leave out the fact that in most cases you will have to modify your case in order for that type of setup to work.

In fact, I have $150-200 to blow... I'll challenge anyone here to recommend to me custom parts (with warranty) that will

A. Sub-total $150 or less
B. Provide more quietness or better thermal attenuation than the 745 or ST H20-120
C. Not require me to cut my Praetorian or ditch any of my parts

...and I will build it.
 
lopoetve said:
So, you didn't need documentation the first time you did it? You just magically figured it out?
i don't know about him, but i sure did.

on the water end of things there's just not much to screw up if you have a look a the systems a few people have put together and don't try to do anything weird.

now.....i nearly had a fire on my hands because of the pelts i run in addition to the water cooling.......and that prompted me to implement some safe guards.......but the putting together water cooling part of the deal is just so damn simple and intuitive. as i said earlier, there's a hell of a lot you can do to optimize the loop, and that's not as easy, but the Tt doesn't help you with that aspect of planning and building a water cooling loop. and, once again, even without carefull selection of parts you still end up with better performance than the bigwater.
 
Stellar said:
You know, people keep slinging this claim around, I'd be interested to actually see it done.. some publisheable, applicable results in other words.

They always seem to also conveniently leave out the fact that in most cases you will have to modify your case in order for that type of setup to work.
you either mod to accomodate a reasonable sized rad, or you sacrifice performance using a smaller. no one is to say that you can't run a loop with a BIP radiatior on the rear exhaust grill of you case and a second through the front intake. it's not optimal, but if you have a case with 120mm fans it is certainly doable without modding.

alternately you can get yourself a swiftech radbox to hang the rad off of the back of the case, which only requires you to "mod" a pair of drill holes in the back face of your case to route tubing through.

anyhow......
http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=33561&category_id=4025&pcid1=2181
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadentdxa64c.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenblicepr.html one or two depending on the noise and performance you want. one is fine for just the CPU, a second if you add a GPU block.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html 10 or twelve feet of tubing.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohocl.html twelve clamps, from here or the hardware store.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/1odtf1and7id.html

and i think you can make it happen for $150 bones with one rad. you still need a bit of distilled water and antifreeze from the auto parts store......but that should do it.
 
DFI Daishi said:
i don't know about him, but i sure did.

on the water end of things there's just not much to screw up if you have a look a the systems a few people have put together and don't try to do anything weird.

now.....i nearly had a fire on my hands because of the pelts i run in addition to the water cooling.......and that prompted me to implement some safe guards.......but the putting together water cooling part of the deal is just so damn simple and intuitive. as i said earlier, there's a hell of a lot you can do to optimize the loop, and that's not as easy, but the Tt doesn't help you with that aspect of planning and building a water cooling loop. and, once again, even without carefull selection of parts you still end up with better performance than the bigwater.

Every kit I see, people have modified their case, chopped things up, modified PSU's to get power, etc. There's a LOT to screw up doing all of that, just to add water cooling. I don't have to do ~any~ of that with the TT kit. This gets me water cooling, cheaply, gets me a res I can use later (I like the 5 1/4 bay one) which is $40 I'd use anyway (and this one doesn't take construction like almost all the ones I see!), and maybe even a few other parts after that.
 
DFI Daishi said:
you either mod to accomodate a reasonable sized rad, or you sacrifice performance using a smaller. no one is to say that you can't run a loop with a BIP radiatior on the rear exhaust grill of you case and a second through the front intake. it's not optimal, but if you have a case with 120mm fans it is certainly doable without modding.

alternately you can get yourself a swiftech radbox to hang the rad off of the back of the case, which only requires you to "mod" a pair of drill holes in the back face of your case to route tubing through..

See, modding drill holes is something I not only don't have a clue how to do, but would also ruin my case (most likely) and damage things to boot. Not to mention look like total shit :p.
 
Doesn't the RadBox com with PCI slot covers with holes for tubing? or couldn't I purchase those separately?

How can I be assured this is going to outperform the H20-120 Kit?
 
DFI Daishi said:
anyhow......
http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=33561&category_id=4025&pcid1=2181
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadentdxa64c.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenblicepr.html one or two depending on the noise and performance you want. one is fine for just the CPU, a second if you add a GPU block.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html 10 or twelve feet of tubing.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohocl.html twelve clamps, from here or the hardware store.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/1odtf1and7id.html

and i think you can make it happen for $150 bones with one rad. you still need a bit of distilled water and antifreeze from the auto parts store......but that should do it.
1. Ok... how do you power that, btw?
2. Got any recommendations for one that uses 3/8" piping? I want to use the Res I have (5 1/4 bay one). to make it easier to transport.
3. Can you fit a dual 120mm one into the swiftec box? Anyway to get piping outside without hacking the case?
4. k.
5. k.
6. what's the T for?
 
Stellar said:
Doesn't the RadBox com with PCI slot covers with holes for tubing? or couldn't I purchase those separately?

How can I be assured this is going to outperform the H20-120 Kit?

yeah, that's the big thing for me too. I'll do this challenge as well, but I'm NOT cutting my case, and I want to mount the rad. outside.
 
There's no definite answer to that question, Cases vary from one to another.

For example, I was able to install my WC system without a moding my case and I mounted a 77' Bonneville heatercore (no AC) outside my case.

Also, since when did the Bigwater 754 come with a bay res?
 
CoW]8(0) said:
There's no definite answer to that question, Cases vary from one to another.

For example, I was able to install my WC system without a moding my case and I mounted a 77' Bonneville heatercore (no AC) outside my case.

Also, since when did the Bigwater 754 come with a bay res?

I have the Bigwater SE.

edit: how'd you mount that rad?
 
I placed it on top of my case, my case has an 80mm fan mount which I stuck the inlet and outlet of the heatercore into (perfect fit).

Here's quick picture I took:
HeatercoreMnt.jpg
 
lopoetve said:
no, I'm talking about $250 on water.

So, you didn't need documentation the first time you did it? You just magically figured it out?

I AM doing research. By buying a cheaper kit, trying it, and learning from there. No point in blowing money if the added mess of dealing with water cooling isn't going to be worth it.

No I didn't need documentation. It's all pretty self explanatory once you get it and play around with it. Which is also one of the reasons of bought so much tubing at the hw store, so I can mess around with the loop. And btw, my first loop was:

Black ice pro II: $30
DTEk whitewater:$15
and a via aqua 1300: $25
Tubing clamps etc: $13 from hw store
Shipping: around $20
5 gallon jug of antifreeze: $5
Distilled Water: $1
Total $109. The performance was quite good and also a good bit better than a thermaltake setup as the whitewater is still one of the best blocks out. And with setting it up, I did alot of research before hand looking at loops on forums etc and just reading the wc forum.
 
lopoetve: go to google and type watercooling guide.. i can assure you that you will find plenty of guides out there who will teach you all you need ot know about how to set up watercooling..after reading around 20 or so, you should now be able to set up water cooling system without any documentation.
i haven;t built my own water cooling system yet, but my research has already let me to choose my equipment and i am now confident of being able to put together my watercooling system iwthout any documentation help although i don;t make any gurantees that it wouldn;t leak or it would perform extrememly well

the simple fact is that even if you got a whole lot of parts, the guides on the net will let you know how to put them together..
also guys: the radbox comes with extra length screws that allow you to scres the rad onto your existing 120mm fan holes from the outside without having to mod the case, it also includes a pci slot to allow the pipes to go out

read it from the review site on the equipment :)
 
lopoetve said:
1. Ok... how do you power that, btw?
2. Got any recommendations for one that uses 3/8" piping? I want to use the Res I have (5 1/4 bay one). to make it easier to transport.
3. Can you fit a dual 120mm one into the swiftec box? Anyway to get piping outside without hacking the case?
4. k.
5. k.
6. what's the T for?

1. It's AC powered, you plug it into the mains power.
2. You can get TDX's in 3/8
3. Yep. Just radbox, feed through a pci slot
6. T-line. It's a sort of a reservoir. Holds water.
 
Bbq said:
1. It's AC powered, you plug it into the mains power.
2. You can get TDX's in 3/8
3. Yep. Just radbox, feed through a pci slot
6. T-line. It's a sort of a reservoir. Holds water.

What "mains power"? Does it have a molex connector? 4-pin Auxiliary?
 
Stellar said:
What "mains power"? Does it have a molex connector? 4-pin Auxiliary?
It's an AC pump and, thus, needs to be plugged into a power outlet or wired up to a relay switch to trigger with computer power-up (at which point, you'd either draw power from an external plug or through your PSU's AC input)... Your computer's power supply outputs DC power so you couldn't just hook it up to a Molex connector and draw off of your PSU's 12v rail--you'd need a DC pump for that (like a DD CSP-MAG, AquaXtreme 50z, DD D5/MCP655, DDC+, MCP350, etc, etc).
 
Petra said:
It's an AC pump and, thus, needs to be plugged into a power outlet or wired up to a relay switch to trigger with computer power-up (at which point, you'd either draw power from an external plug or through your PSU's AC input)... Your computer's power supply outputs DC power so you couldn't just hook it up to a Molex connector and draw off of your PSU's 12v rail--you'd need a DC pump for that (like a DD CSP-MAG, AquaXtreme 50z, DD D5/MCP655, DDC+, MCP350, etc, etc).

where does one get a relay switch? And how do I set it up?
 
Bbq said:
1. It's AC powered, you plug it into the mains power.
2. You can get TDX's in 3/8
3. Yep. Just radbox, feed through a pci slot
6. T-line. It's a sort of a reservoir. Holds water.

How do you fit a dual-120mm fan rad into the radbox? am I looking at the wrong shroud/case thing?
 
lopoetve said:
How do you fit a dual-120mm fan rad into the radbox? am I looking at the wrong shroud/case thing?

mount it to only one of the 120mm fan holes on the radiator.
 
just a thought everyone: maybe we should make a new thread? possibly a few for the couple of people who have specific requests/needs/questions/whatever.

i know that this thread is already well and thoroughly jacked at this point.......just a thought, like i said. i can pick up with any refinements and clairifications originating from this thread.
 
Stellar said:
Doesn't the RadBox com with PCI slot covers with holes for tubing? or couldn't I purchase those separately?
you can use the PCI pass through plate when using 3/8" ID tubing. in that case you would need to order all parts with 3/8" OD fittings.

when using the radbox with a system running 1/2" ID tubing, they have instructions for how to measure locations for and drill holes in the back of the case to route tubing through.

see third image down: http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX.asp

Stellar said:
How can I be assured this is going to outperform the H20-120 Kit?
do you mean the swiftech H2O 120 kit? the older H20 120 with MCW6000 block, or the newer H2O 120 premium with the apogee block?

if you're talking about the swiftech kits you're talking about a different animal all together. that kit will run neck and neck with what i have up, though MSRP is like $200US.

both versions of the H2O-120 have a better pump and about an equal rad.

the TDX tested as a substantially better block than the apogee in systemcooling's independant review, but swiftech's internally produced numbers are dramatically different. the block is the only advantage that the gear that i put up has on the newer revision.

if it's the older H2O-120 revision 3a, then better still since it's got a really good block (MCW6000) in addition to the strong points of the H2O-120 premium.

if at some later time you wish to add GPU and/or chipset cooling, a second rad or larger rad would be in order.

the nice thing about swiftech kits is that they are basically a box full of tried and true DIY parts with some basic instructions thrown in.

the not nice thing about the kits is that their support is lousy and their warrenty dept. is just terrible......even for out of the box damage, defects and failures.
 
lopoetve: you are asking questions which are easily googleable, there are a few review sits on the radbox system and they have good pics up with what is required and how it works as well as how well it works, you have no business in thinking of using a water cooling system if yo uare unwilling/unable to do the research needed to find out the pros and cons of each and every part/system that is going into your system.
if you can;t be bothered to do the research then i would suggest you stick to air cooling as otherwise you wouldn;t know what to do incase of leaks, kinks and low flow and such and you will then complain that water cooling is overhyped and you have waster a huge amount of money on a system that is inefficient
 
fan_83 said:
lopoetve: you are asking questions which are easily googleable, there are a few review sits on the radbox system and they have good pics up with what is required and how it works as well as how well it works, you have no business in thinking of using a water cooling system if yo uare unwilling/unable to do the research needed to find out the pros and cons of each and every part/system that is going into your system.
if you can;t be bothered to do the research then i would suggest you stick to air cooling as otherwise you wouldn;t know what to do incase of leaks, kinks and low flow and such and you will then complain that water cooling is overhyped and you have waster a huge amount of money on a system that is inefficient

When you google "watercooling guide" you get 15 sites with 15 different opinions and 15 different ways of doing it. That's why I bought a kit, to ~learn~. I looked at the radbox stuff out there, and only saw the single fan radiators on it, so that's why I asked.

I may waste a lot of money on an inefficient system, but it certainly can't work any worse than what I have now.
 
fan_83 said:
lopoetve: you are asking questions which are easily googleable, there are a few review sits on the radbox system and they have good pics up with what is required and how it works as well as how well it works, you have no business in thinking of using a water cooling system if yo uare unwilling/unable to do the research needed to find out the pros and cons of each and every part/system that is going into your system.
if you can;t be bothered to do the research then i would suggest you stick to air cooling as otherwise you wouldn;t know what to do incase of leaks, kinks and low flow and such and you will then complain that water cooling is overhyped and you have waster a huge amount of money on a system that is inefficient

Quite the cordial [H] newb you are. :rolleyes:
 
Stellar said:
Quite the cordial [H] newb you are. :rolleyes:
would it have been better if i had said it? it's true so far as the radbox goes.

i mean, looking at the manufacturer's page for the product before posting a question would be just madness, wouldn't it?

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120-R2.asp

then again, lopoetve commenting that he can't opperate a hand drill doesn't exactly bode well either.
 
geee i am a newb but i also am interested in water cooling and i have taken my time to look up the various kits that are on sale, how to install them and waht are their advantages and disadvantages..

isn;t that something one should do before one embark one something new and potentiall costly upgrade on ones expensive pc?

if my being a newb disallow me from pointing out simple facts that are important or allowing me to point out facts in a terse manner then i apologise.. cos i feel its a sign of laziness and a waste of others time to answer quesitons that are already available easily on the net which is part of ones reseach before going into watercooling

lopoetve: if there are 15 different ways, then wouldn;t there be some common themes among them that shows the common steps in installing , building and taking care of a water cooling systems.. isn;t that more htan enough or should i say better information than a manual provided by the manufacturer, and it might also provide tips in helping you build different systems, with different cases/setups and so on

and the radbox's website and review sites did mention explicitly that you habd the radbox through a single 120mm fan holes and that you use hte lower ones
 
DFI Daishi said:
would it have been better if i had said it? it's true so far as the radbox goes.

i mean, looking at the manufacturer's page for the product before posting a question would be just madness, wouldn't it?

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120-R2.asp

then again, lopoetve commenting that he can't opperate a hand drill doesn't exactly bode well either.

Buddy, I'm a software engineer and a car tinkerer. neither uses hand drills. :p I wouldn't even know what to do with the thing ;) I've used a dremel a few times, but that's about it. Hell, I've thought about buying the TT shark case, since it has holes already in it, but IIRC, they're just 1/4" pass throughs.
 
fan_83 said:
geee i am a newb but i also am interested in water cooling and i have taken my time to look up the various kits that are on sale, how to install them and waht are their advantages and disadvantages..

isn;t that something one should do before one embark one something new and potentiall costly upgrade on ones expensive pc?

if my being a newb disallow me from pointing out simple facts that are important or allowing me to point out facts in a terse manner then i apologise.. cos i feel its a sign of laziness and a waste of others time to answer quesitons that are already available easily on the net which is part of ones reseach before going into watercooling

lopoetve: if there are 15 different ways, then wouldn;t there be some common themes among them that shows the common steps in installing , building and taking care of a water cooling systems.. isn;t that more htan enough or should i say better information than a manual provided by the manufacturer, and it might also provide tips in helping you build different systems, with different cases/setups and so on

and the radbox's website and review sites did mention explicitly that you habd the radbox through a single 120mm fan holes and that you use hte lower ones

I did look up reviews. the Bigwater SE has quite a few positive ones out there. Very positive ones, for that matter. That's why I bought it.

Yes, there are commonalities: Everyone has a radiator and a waterblock, and run vinegar and water through to clear it out. Order of flow, piping to use, parts to use, pump, etc are all different, and each has a heated argument attached. that's why I bought a kit: they're paid to figure it out.
 
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