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Best Water Block

Top Nurse said:
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I responded to the OP a little tongue in cheek on my first post and then I listened to what the OP said on his second post and responded appropriately which is more than I can say for some others here. :rolleyes:

Added: BTW, IMO the Storm and TDX are both fugly. There is no helping the TDX, but the Storm would look fantastic with some nickel plated fittings and a clear plexi mounting plate.

Corrected...nothing about your opinions are ever humble TN ;)
 
Dillusion said:
The TDX is fugly. AC is cool and all but too expensive for nothing...

I guess what you define as expensive, its all relative. As I see it (working in the engineering industry) AC components are perfectomondo. The company I work has world wide locations and especially in the thermal industry every thing is over seas. I'm not sure where AC gets there manufacturing done, but it is awesome, and thus, I'm a fan.

I'm still not sure why slow flow could be better than faster flowing systems, but you can bet your a$$ that I'm going to talk with one of our thermal engineers tomorrow and ask them what the difference is. Ill get back with you guys on Tuesday night and let you know what they had to say about it.

Thanks guys/gals
 
Top Nurse said:
You/I forgot the *bling* factor. :D Let's face it this is really a nice looking block:

aquagrafx-6800-sm.gif
aquagrafx-6800-light-sm.gif
aquagrafx-6800-bm-sm.gif
Yeah, too bad its aluminum and will corrode to pieces within a short period of time. It won't look so cool then :p
 
nealio said:
I guess what you define as expensive, its all relative. As I see it (working in the engineering industry) AC components are perfectomondo. The company I work has world wide locations and especially in the thermal industry every thing is over seas. I'm not sure where AC gets there manufacturing done, but it is awesome, and thus, I'm a fan.

I'm still not sure why slow flow could be better than faster flowing systems, but you can bet your a$$ that I'm going to talk with one of our thermal engineers tomorrow and ask them what the difference is. Ill get back with you guys on Tuesday night and let you know what they had to say about it.

Thanks guys/gals

slow flow isn't better, faster flow is always better (in general). The question is, what flow do you need to get performance that is satisfactory to you?

the waterblock and radiator have as much to do with performance, most likely more, than the flow of the system does. All you need is to have enough flow so that you are not choking in a sense your waterblock and radiator.
 
nealio said:
I guess what you define as expensive, its all relative. As I see it (working in the engineering industry) AC components are perfectomondo. The company I work has world wide locations and especially in the thermal industry every thing is over seas. I'm not sure where AC gets there manufacturing done, but it is awesome, and thus, I'm a fan.

I'm still not sure why slow flow could be better than faster flowing systems, but you can bet your a$$ that I'm going to talk with one of our thermal engineers tomorrow and ask them what the difference is. Ill get back with you guys on Tuesday night and let you know what they had to say about it.

Thanks guys/gals
Well, I do have a good friend that is a thermal engineer that works for a major company that designs thermal coooling solutions for high end electronics (also some of the big name water cooling companies) and they tried the low flow route and they couldn't get the performance that the customer base is looking for, so they are now working with mid to high flow systems. That's where I get most of my info and that's pretty much what I'll stick with. I don't think there's a block of system that hasn't been run through their lab lately................ :eek:
 
HiJon89 said:
Yeah, too bad its aluminum and will corrode to pieces within a short period of time. It won't look so cool then :p

Well you are wrong. :p If used as directed with AC Fluid there is no corrosion and there are quite a few people on this board who can attest to that fact.
 
Hmm... I think I might add a liitle more pentosin into my coolant mix...lol.. the rad in my case is right over-head, and is aluminum... don't want any corrosion there... especially. Hello sprinkler system! :eek: yikes
 
Top Nurse said:
You/I forgot the *bling* factor. :D Let's face it this is really a nice looking block:

aquagrafx-6800-sm.gif
aquagrafx-6800-light-sm.gif
aquagrafx-6800-bm-sm.gif

I never put bling above performance and flexibility.
 
as for corrosion once you mix copper and alluminium thats it, no matter what anti-corrosion stuff you put it its only gona slow it down plus your cooling performance will degrade over time. My advice avoid mixing them and stick will 100% copper/brass blocks and radiators, this will avoid corrosion and allow you to use very little anti-freeze (10%-%20).
 
yikes... well I am screwed then... copper blocks and an aluminum radiator over top... nice.

EDIT: So - what - should I look for a copper rad replacement so I can sleep well at night. ? or just get one of these each year (or so)?
 
revenant said:
yikes... well I am screwed then... copper blocks and an aluminum radiator over top... nice.

EDIT: So - what - should I look for a copper rad replacement so I can sleep well at night. ? or just get one of these each year (or so)?

I have an Exos sitting right next to me that has an aluminum radiator, a gold plated copper block, and a copper block all in the same loop for several years now. There is no corrosion so long as you use something like anti-freeze or any of the popular anti-corrosion additives. I use a 10% solution of Hy-per Lube.
 
Top Nurse said:
Well you are wrong. :p If used as directed with AC Fluid there is no corrosion and there are quite a few people on this board who can attest to that fact.
kleox64 said:
as for corrosion once you mix copper and alluminium thats it, no matter what anti-corrosion stuff you put it its only gona slow it down plus your cooling performance will degrade over time. My advice avoid mixing them and stick will 100% copper/brass blocks and radiators, this will avoid corrosion and allow you to use very little anti-freeze (10%-%20).
kleox64 is correct, there is no way to completely prevent corrosion between aluminum and copper, you can only slow it down. It's only a matter of time before it begins to corrode, bottom line, just don't put aluminum in your loop.
 
Top Nurse said:
I have an Exos sitting right next to me that has an aluminum radiator, a gold plated copper block, and a copper block all in the same loop for several years now. There is no corrosion so long as you use something like anti-freeze or any of the popular anti-corrosion additives. I use a 10% solution of Hy-per Lube.

ok - I have a 15% mix of pentosin in the coolant... Thanks for the heads up. :)
 
kleox64 said:
I never put bling above performance and flexibility.

That's one block which I read is the best (expen$e aside) full cover (gpu and mem) for the 6800 series cards... and is the best looking one also, imo... the red circle for the gpu block is adjustable for getting the perfect fit due to varying gpu and memory heights. It's a seriously nice peice of hardware... that was the only full-card block I would consider getting. The similar DD block uses thermal pads for the memory... doh!
 
Top Nurse said:
Well you are wrong. :p If used as directed with AC Fluid there is no corrosion and there are quite a few people on this board who can attest to that fact.
i would think that he is partially wrong, and time will tell the rest of the tale....
 
Erasmus354 said:
Really? The way I see it not even your second in command of the Aqua Computer Legion R1ckCa1n decided to thread crap. You were the only one who decided to try and turn this into an AC vs. the world thread.
Eranus please stop turning everything into a war. You act like it is offensive for people to have a different opinion than yours... :mad: Each and every thread in this sub forum turns into a "my way is better than your way" mess so why should this one be any different?
 
revenant said:
That's one block which I read is the best (expen$e aside) full cover (gpu and mem) for the 6800 series cards... and is the best looking one also, imo... the red circle for the gpu block is adjustable for getting the perfect fit due to varying gpu and memory heights. It's a seriously nice peice of hardware... that was the only full-card block I would consider getting. The similar DD block uses thermal pads for the memory... doh!

And the name of the block would be?
 
Ultragamma said:
Now back to topic, The MP-05 looks like a good block, really curious how it compare to storm. How does the MCW55 perform? But really, the best block is individual opinion. However, the Market determines best depending on market demand. If it is the best then demand will be high.

I second that. For those who owns MCW55, how's is it? Is it Al or what material is it? and what material does it use to cool GPU RAM?
 
Erasmus354 said:
DD Maze4, Swiftech MCW55, Silverprop HL Fusion

What material is make from the above? Al, Cu, etc.

And What method & material is make to cool the GPU RAM? Heat Sink, Thermal Pad, etc.
 
nealio said:
I guess what you define as expensive, its all relative. As I see it (working in the engineering industry) AC components are perfectomondo. The company I work has world wide locations and especially in the thermal industry every thing is over seas. I'm not sure where AC gets there manufacturing done, but it is awesome, and thus, I'm a fan.

Perfect is what way? As I don't care about the way a water block look, because it's not like a watch that you carry on your wrist. My case is non-transparent and I couldn't be bother looking at the inside regardless.

Are you talking about performance, if so, what about other German made brand name water blocks.
 
HiJon89 said:
kleox64 is correct, there is no way to completely prevent corrosion between aluminum and copper, you can only slow it down. It's only a matter of time before it begins to corrode, bottom line, just don't put aluminum in your loop.

But even w/ Cu or brass, there will also be corrosion. Hey I have seen Cu react w/ air and oxidize and it get corroded. So what's the difference?

. My advice avoid mixing them and stick will 100% copper/brass blocks and radiators, this will avoid corrosion and allow you to use very little anti-freeze (10%-%20).
 
Happy Hopping said:
But even w/ Cu or brass, there will also be corrosion. Hey I have seen Cu react w/ air and oxidize and it get corroded. So what's the difference?

I think you're mistaking tarnish for corrosion.

The pipes in your house, or most houses, are made of what? How long have they been there? Any corrosion inhibitor present in tap water? I think not.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Eranus please stop turning everything into a war. You act like it is offensive for people to have a different opinion than yours... :mad: Each and every thread in this sub forum turns into a "my way is better than your way" mess so why should this one be any different?

It took you advice recently and use the twit filter provided by the [H]ardForum. Life is pretty good now. :D
 
Top Nurse said:
It took you advice recently and use the twit filter provided by the [H]ardForum. Life is pretty good now. :D
LOL.. why didn't I think of that. Consider it done.

ignore%20list.JPG
 
Top Nurse said:
It took you advice recently and use the twit filter provided by the [H]ardForum. Life is pretty good now. :D
I think it would much more considerate if you all would take this type of discussion through PM’s or something else instead of trashing the thread with your personal discussions about other people. It would be much appreciated by all the others that read the threads.

Thank you for your kind consideration of the other forum members.
 
Dillusion said:
The TDX is fugly. AC is cool and all but too expensive for nothing...

Hey! I like the way my TDX looks. Granted, I don't have a window in my case, so it really doesn't matter much.
 
CrapLikeThis.jpg



Crap like this is why you don't see me posting much in this forum anymore.
You two should be ashamed of yourselves for doing such a thing in public.
Plus I find your reasoning to be quite suspect...
 
kleox64 said:
best high flow = storm G4 (G5/G7 isnt a retail product)
best low flow = ? aquacomputer maybe
back on subject....

it was my understanding that the G7 was actually designed to work very well in low flow situations. I recall it being one of cathar's goals in the design?
 
Swimming_Bird said:
back on subject....

it was my understanding that the G7 was actually designed to work very well in low flow situations. I recall it being one of cathar's goals in the design?

I sure hope so as that is the way I intend to use it. Might even go for an 8mm tube to live a little on the wild side. ;) Actually I was thinking of using a 3/8" pushfit for better flow with my Aquastream pump because IIRC he makes them with 3/8 BSPP threads.
 
Swimming_Bird said:
back on subject....

it was my understanding that the G7 was actually designed to work very well in low flow situations. I recall it being one of cathar's goals in the design?
The G7 will outperform any block on the market at almost any flowrate, but it is incredibly restrictive so if you have other blocks in the loop they better be able to perform at very low flow.
 
HiJon89 said:
The G7 will outperform any block on the market at almost any flowrate, but it is incredibly restrictive so if you have other blocks in the loop they better be able to perform at very low flow.
i don't think that you are correct on that last point, however hopefully cathar can elaborate, since he has already posted in this thread.

i'm thinking that as compared to most modern blocks out there, the G7 is actually pretty un-restrictive.
 
HiJon89 said:
The G7 will outperform any block on the market at almost any flowrate, but it is incredibly restrictive so if you have other blocks in the loop they better be able to perform at very low flow.

It's not THAT restrictive. Generally you'd see close to 5.5LPM (~1.4gpm) with it with a Laing D5, and ~4LPM with it with a Laing DDC.

It's neither excessively restrictive, nor is it "wide open". It uses the restriction that it offers exactly how restriction should be used and eliminates all other point of restriction within the block.

I wasn't particularly aware that 4-5.5LPM was considered "very low flow".
 
My info must be outdated. Last time I visit your web site, you said G5 is the best and there is not much pt. to make something better than G5.

Anyhow, what sort of flow rate works best w/ the G5 or even the G7? Would a Ehiem 1048 in conjunction w/ Zalman Reservator be a:

fair choice
acceptable choice
Good choice?
 
Happy Hopping said:
My info must be outdated. Last time I visit your web site, you said G5 is the best and there is not much pt. to make something better than G5.

Anyhow, what sort of flow rate works best w/ the G5 or even the G7? Would a Ehiem 1048 in conjunction w/ Zalman Reservator be a:

fair choice
acceptable choice
Good choice?

The reserator would probably be choking the G7. If you are going to get such a high performing waterblock why get a piss poor radiator (in terms of cooling performance)?
 
Erasmus354 said:
The reserator would probably be choking the G7. If you are going to get such a high performing waterblock why get a piss poor radiator (in terms of cooling performance)?

Isn't the whole point of the G7 (and the G-series in general) is that it is the best performing water-block at every level bar the lowest of flows.

So in every situation (bar the lowest flow setup) the G7 would be the best choice, including using it with a reserator.
A G7 + a reserator would probably = lower temps than any other block mated with a reserator.

Just because the G7 is considered the best performing block when at higher flows, doesn't mean people have to use the best performing high flow radiator with it. They should get improved performance just plugging the G7 into their existing setup as the G-series is designed to be the 'best block' at a range of flows, whether mated with a higher flow chevvy heater core, BIXs and TCs or lower flow EVOs, reserators and passives.

Hopefully Cathar will come along and point us in the right direction.
 
J-Pepper said:
A G7 + a reserator would probably = lower temps than any other block mated with a reserator.
This is true, a G7 paired with a reserator would probably get lower temps than any other block with the reserator, the problem is, a $20 Maze 3 with a $10 heatercore and a $30 Hydor L25 would outperform it. So, while its true that a G7 would be the best with the reserator, its also true that almost any setup without the reserator would still beat it because of how the reserator would cripple the cooling performance of any block.
 
What you have to understand here is that Happy Hopping seems to be set on having his radiator outside the case based on his comments here and in other threads. Seems that he doesn't think you can get good/better performance by having a radiator mounted inside the system case.
 
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