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Bad water block?

B

bandit390

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Dec 27, 2004
Messages
1,374
Im using the swifttech apex kit with aponge and opteron 170 with a teeline. Nothing else in the loop. Stock volt and o/c I get 40c idle and 49c load.

I recently switched to a teeline, because I had problems getting air out with res, but the temps were just 1c-2c hihger with the res. I have tried many times repasting the cpu (dot and spread method) and when I take the block off, it is getting good contact.

Then I put the stock heatsink on and got 41c idle and 55c load. So I was thinking maybe the water block is bad?
 
Did you try re-seating the block with fresh paste and tightening it down a bit more for better contact?
 
What paste are you using, are you cleaning everything well between applications? Finally, are there any kinks in your tubing which would be impeding the flow?
 
Hmmmmm this is a teaser for sure. Are you using the bios to get your temps, direct contact temp unit or a 3rd party software program?
 
some apogee blocks were poorly made and had metal shavings in the inside of the block. Also alot of bios & windows based tempmonitors give bad temps.
 
Find something you know is straight/flat and use it to make sure your block and CPU are both flat or REALLY close to flat. If they're not you may need to do some lapping or use more AS.
 
bandit390 said:
Ok, no shavings...
Click to expand...
So you ripped your loop apart and took the cpu block apart of come to this conclusion? That is the only way to check.

What were your temps prior to the watercooling?
 
Room temp is around 68.

Took the cpu block apart and flushed the system. No shavings.


 
Well it looks like you've got the T-Line on the pump outlet, it should be before the inlet otherwise it 'starves' of water.

You must have had fun trying to fill that ;)
 
A few things I noticed... You have a lot more tubing than is necessary. If you flipped the radiator you wouldn't need as much tubing. Also the T-Line is on the wrong side of the pump.

With the AS5 are you letting it burn in? You are aware that AS5 gets better temps over time right?
 
Also, make sure the water is flowing correctly thru the block. I remember someone around here having bad temp issues and switching the inlet/outlet fixed it. It looks like (but not sure from the pic) that you have it backwards.

Full Folding Ahead!

 
Leeum said:
Well it looks like you've got the T-Line on the pump outlet, it should be before the inlet otherwise it 'starves' of water.

You must have had fun trying to fill that ;)
Click to expand...

Its fine. When I was using a res, it was before the inlet and got the same temps.
 
Erasmus354 said:
A few things I noticed... You have a lot more tubing than is necessary. If you flipped the radiator you wouldn't need as much tubing.

With the AS5 are you letting it burn in? You are aware that AS5 gets better temps over time right?
Click to expand...



No room to drill holes up top and if I flipped the rad, there would be some serious bending to get the hoses through the holes.( would have to use elbows).

After burn in, will it get 15c-20c better, I don't think so.
 
tsuehpsyde said:
Also, make sure the water is flowing correctly thru the block. I remember someone around here having bad temp issues and switching the inlet/outlet fixed it. It looks like (but not sure from the pic) that you have it backwards.

Full Folding Ahead!

Click to expand...


The apogee doesn't have a certian inlet/outlet like the storm.

I will be switching the pump around ie:pump > Apogee > Rad > T-line > Pump
 
You will not get any better than 1-2c improvement by "burning in" the AS5.


I honestly do not know what your problem could be other than the fans are not running on the radiator?
 
The only thing I can think of that could cause issue is flow rate what is pump turned to is it at5. Also may want to test pump output may have bad pump.
 
I blew your pic up and it is not really clear how you mounted the block. You did use the springs right? How tight are they and did you tighten them up a little bit at a time? Sounds to me like your block isn't making good contact with your CPU. Also some of the IHS I have seen are not flat so it might behoove you to check it with a flat edge or a dial test indicator.
 
LOWBOY said:
The only thing I can think of that could cause issue is flow rate what is pump turned to is it at5. Also may want to test pump output may have bad pump.
Click to expand...


Its at 5 and how would I test the flow rate?
 
Switched the pump around. PUMP>CPU>RAD>PUMP

Temps are the same.


Top Nurse said:
I blew your pic up and it is not really clear how you mounted the block. You did use the springs right? How tight are they and did you tighten them up a little bit at a time? Sounds to me like your block isn't making good contact with your CPU. Also some of the IHS I have seen are not flat so it might behoove you to check it with a flat edge or a dial test indicator.
Click to expand...

Yes, i'm using the screws with springs on them and tightened them down evenly.
 
bandit390 said:
Switched the pump around. PUMP>CPU>RAD>PUMP
Click to expand...

Here's what I would recommend (also, give it 24 hours to bleed out the air...ur temps will suffer with air in there).

T-Line in front of the inlet ==> Pump ==> Radiator (flipped the other way) ==> Block ==> Back to the T-Line

That's how my loop is setup and it runs beautifully. Mind you I'm on a 6002 and my proc is lidless, but still. I originally had my loop how you had it, except my rad is only a single, then I flipped my rad upside down and re-arranged. ;)

Full Folding Ahead!

 
There's nothing about his coolant flow that should cause those temps. It's probably just an incorrect reading.
 
It seemed to me almost as if the pump isnt setup properly, as it needs to sit upright for best flow? Looking at the pics on DD's site, the outlet should be facing up with the inlet on its side, but you have the pump on its back with the inlet facing up and outlet on its side. Not sure if this would make a diff, but I'd give it a try.

-Cameron
 
Long as the inlet is not point down, its safe.

But for the past 2 hours I have the pump sitting up "right". Temps are the same.

 
I can tell by looking at your coolant that it's emulsified with air to nearly the point of being foam.

Yes that's going to give you crappy temps. Shut the PC off and let the bubbles settle then when they have settled out, jumper the PSU (light green wire to black) and turn the PSU power switch on and off for a split second at a time for about as long as it takes for the water to get foamy again the let it separate again.

Keep doing this until you have the majority of the bigger bubbles caught in the fill line.
 
madmat said:
I can tell by looking at your coolant that it's emulsified with air to nearly the point of being foam.

Yes that's going to give you crappy temps. Shut the PC off and let the bubbles settle then when they have settled out, jumper the PSU (light green wire to black) and turn the PSU power switch on and off for a split second at a time for about as long as it takes for the water to get foamy again the let it separate again.

Keep doing this until you have the majority of the bigger bubbles caught in the fill line.
Click to expand...

That pic was taken 2 minutes after I set it up. Its just to show how its set up. Almost all the air is out and now looks like the first pic.
 
bandit390 said:
Ok, no shavings...
Click to expand...

Well now theres no shavings, its porbably all inside your radiator. Blow out the rad and the block with a air pressure thing, youre going to ened something powerful. And when u full the loop close the loop and turn it upside down to make sure all air is out of the rad.
 
A couple thoughts:

1. Did you cut out the built in fan grills at the back of the case where it is sandwhiched between the rad and fans? The only reason I ask is because cases usually have some type of stamped grill where the fans go.

2. Are the fans pushing or pulling? Pulling is usually best. You should also consider buying a shroud or cannibalize 2 old fans and use them to make one.
 
It could also just be that your motherboard reports the temps abnormally high. The temp spread looks correct for your loop, a delta of 9*C between load and idle, that's about right and better than your air cooling. You're possibly stuck with temps being reported as 10*C high.
 
I tested the pump like this and found it could be the issue. Inlet hose is in the sink and the outlet hose in the in the bottle.



No water was pulled up and out. Water is in the pump, I even tried holding the inlet hose under running water, making the hose upright. After about 20 seconds, it shot no water out, but I could see some crawling up the outlet hose, but none never came out.(outlet hose about 12 inches)

Also, when I refilled my loop. It takes about a minute or two to actually start pushing the water up, to get the loop going.

So, could the issue be with the pump. This is my first pump and don't know how fast/etc they should pull/push water.
 
The pump will not pull water up out of a sink. It has to be primed and full of water to work correctly. All it takes is the tiniest bit of air in the pump housing to kill the flow rate.
 
That sounds like a dead pump to me. They typically don't have good suction head :rolleyes: but it should have covered you with water. :D My Hydor L30 nearly did when I tested it

Make sure you have the pump full of water before turning it on or else the water will probably cavitate with air and just spin a bunch of water and air, not actually pumping. It can also perminantly damage the pump to run it without water.

Did you try to spin the "speed" potentiometer back and forth a bit to make sure it was making correct contact?

does it make unpump like sounds? squeeks or rattles are bad
 
No water was pulled up and out. Water is in the pump, I even tried holding the inlet hose under running water, making the hose upright. After about 20 seconds, it shot no water out, but I could see some crawling up the outlet hose, but none never came out.(outlet hose about 12 inches)

Also, when I refilled my loop. It takes about a minute or two to actually start pushing the water up, slowly, to get the loop going.
 
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