Avoid Corsair Hydro coolers for now - bad batches.

Nexus6 said:
If you need pliers to tighten these thumbscrews, you would indeed be fucking retarded.

It's not difficult. Hell my koolance waterblocks have thumbscrews. Why the hell would you need to crank down on it with a screwdriver?
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so you can access it from directly above with a shaft, if I had one of these I could probably get 3 out of 4 just fine with my fingers, the last one, almost under the VR sink, not so much.
 
Nexus6 said:
If you need pliers to tighten these thumbscrews, you would indeed be fucking retarded.

It's not difficult. Hell my koolance waterblocks have thumbscrews. Why the hell would you need to crank down on it with a screwdriver?
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It's not the idea to tighten the screw so hard it breaks, it's just the overall ease of access.:D

I agree, three of four would be simple, but there's always one that is difficult for fingers to reach.
 
H100 here. Replaced the stock fans that sounded like helicopters with totally silent Noctuas.
I've been running this rig pretty much non-stop since Dec 01 2011 and the H100 has given me no troubles yet.
 
The gurgling sound in my H80 went away after I used it for a little while. I also traveled with it while it was installed and laying flat, so it's possible that helped the air bubbles travel up into the radiator.
 
Ordered my H80 on Nov. 29th, it worked perfectly, was completely silent, and the thumb screws were just fine with no need for pliers.
 
Mine actually came with screws with flat bladed screwdriver slots cut in them. I didn't need to use them because I mounted
the waterblock/pump before I installed the memory so there was plenty of room even for my fat fingers.



8W9C1671_1-Gigabyte-ga-x79-ud7.jpg
 
I got my H80 in last week on Wednesday from newegg.

I have a corsair carbide case, but my motherboard actually had the mounting holes for the cpu partially hidden when taking the backplate off and viewing the backside of the motherboard, so i took an angle grinder to the case and cut out a little section of it (NBD really, no structual integrity lost and not viewable)

Anyways, once i did that it was a fairly simple install. My thumbscrews had phillips slots in them and when tightened down all the way... didn't flex or bend anything really at all...

The only gripe i have is that the screws included for installing the second fan are entirely too long, like 1/8 of an inch too long.
 
You see i thought that as well, but i'd have needed 3 of those washers on each corner to mount it properly.

Also, the serial number on my box was 11439402
 
w00t69 said:
You see i thought that as well, but i'd have needed 3 of those washers on each corner to mount it properly.

Also, the serial number on my box was 11439402
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These things are designed so that bolts are going to pierce into the radiator fins if you keep screwing them down. Are you running out of thread?
 
i just didn't think it was designed to pierce into the radiator fins, seems stupid. I used some rubber spacers to mount it.
 
My h50 works great

4.8ghz no problem on my 2500k
 
So should the fan speed change if you press the center button while the system is running or does it only speed up if the temps go up?
 
I just built my friend a system this past week with the H60. When I first turned it on I was like holy shit it's loud. The H60 sounded it it was running dry. I really don't think there putting enough coolant in these things. If I laid the case down on it's side it was fine. Then I put it back up and here the air and water bubbling.These things are closed loop there really shouldn't be any air in them. Really not enough for it to bubble and sound like running water. If I Flicked it with my finger it would be dead silent for like 2 seconds then go back to loud. After a day it got quieter but I could still hear it over the case fans. It was anouying as hell to me but doesn't seam to bother my friend. I told him about it but he isn't a silent pc freak like me. I have builit quiet a few computer's with the H50 and they all worked fine. Think I might have to go with the Antech coolers or intel cooler's for anything I build from now on. Until corsair get's this fix.
 
Amazon actually deactivated their stock of H80/H100 due to "bad batches". I was gonna order a H100 for my new build and noticed this deactivation
 
Igg said:
Amazon actually deactivated their stock of H80/H100 due to "bad batches". I was gonna order a H100 for my new build and noticed this deactivation
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Oh good, I'm not crazy afterall... ;) But the explanation makes it sound more like a listing issue than hardware issue.

Amazon.com said:
Item Under Review

While this item is available from other marketplace sellers on this page, it is not currently offered by Amazon.com because customers have told us there may be something wrong with our inventory of the item, the way we are shipping it, or the way it's described here. (Thanks for the tip!)

We're working to fix the problem as quickly as possible.
Click to expand...
 
Corsair should also include the 400 and 500R cases in the 'Bad Batch' catagory as I've had some very bad experience with them.
I bought an H80 when they first came out and couldn't install it because of a 'Bad Batch' of hardware, namely screws that were mis-threaded.
I hope this alerts more potential buyers of Corsair products that these guys are far from the 'Quality Brand' people think they are!!
 
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Nope, my 400r case came in just fine. If you were using "mis threaded" screws you were using the WRONG screws from the bag.
 
No Sir I am not a dim wit, I'm talking about the H80 screws/stand-offs that were so poorly manufactured I couldn't install the unit.
 
For what it's worth, our failure rates of H80 and H100 are nearly identical to our low failure rates on H60, H50, and H70, aside from one bad batch of H100s from September that only got shipped to a couple resellers in the US, and we recovered nearly all of those before they were sold to end users.

The H80/H100 "quality" issue that is popping up is likely due to the immense popularity - the H80 and H100 are by far our most successful coolers, well over any of our previous H50 or H70 sales, and as such, the returns and failures go up proportionally. If we had a 1% failure rate with 100 units or 10,000 units, we'd still see 100 times the failures in the forums.

We are working to address a number of issues and have continually upgraded our products - the difference in the slots on the thumbscrews was due to a material shortage - our vendor that sold the slotted thumbscrews couldn't meet our requirements so we had to buy a small allotment from another vendor that had unslotted thumbscrews. We also have some cross-thread (philips head) thumbscrews in the market. All of these are made to Corsair specifications, so there is no functional difference. The unit itself has not changed throughout the cycle except to make some small tweaks for longevity issues here and there, but nothing which could affect the overall noise of the unit.

Like all Corsair products, if you have a bad one, we'll gladly replace it for you under the warranty period.

Use our online support, here:
http://www.corsair.com/support/

And if you don't hear back within 48 hours, please feel free to email me with your details, [email protected]

I'll gladly get your email to the right person - I'm not in customer support, but Cooling is one of the three product lines I manage (the other being cases and PSUs) and I take quality and usability comments very seriously.

Thanks guys.
 
Redbeard said:
For what it's worth, our failure rates of H80 and H100 are nearly identical to our low failure rates on H60, H50, and H70, aside from one bad batch of H100s from September that only got shipped to a couple resellers in the US, and we recovered nearly all of those before they were sold to end users.

The H80/H100 "quality" issue that is popping up is likely due to the immense popularity - the H80 and H100 are by far our most successful coolers, well over any of our previous H50 or H70 sales, and as such, the returns and failures go up proportionally. If we had a 1% failure rate with 100 units or 10,000 units, we'd still see 100 times the failures in the forums.

We are working to address a number of issues and have continually upgraded our products - the difference in the slots on the thumbscrews was due to a material shortage - our vendor that sold the slotted thumbscrews couldn't meet our requirements so we had to buy a small allotment from another vendor that had unslotted thumbscrews. We also have some cross-thread (philips head) thumbscrews in the market. All of these are made to Corsair specifications, so there is no functional difference. The unit itself has not changed throughout the cycle except to make some small tweaks for longevity issues here and there, but nothing which could affect the overall noise of the unit.

Like all Corsair products, if you have a bad one, we'll gladly replace it for you under the warranty period.

Use our online support, here:
http://www.corsair.com/support/

And if you don't hear back within 48 hours, please feel free to email me with your details, [email protected]

I'll gladly get your email to the right person - I'm not in customer support, but Cooling is one of the three product lines I manage (the other being cases and PSUs) and I take quality and usability comments very seriously.

Thanks guys.
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Thanks Redbeard. It is always good to hear from company reps who can directly help users with issues. Unfortunately in my case, I do not live in the US so sending the unit to Corsair for RMA would prove quite expensive so I was forced to return it. The irony is that I live in the same city as CoolIT - the actual designers of the H80. Would there have been a chance of sending a unit to them?

For what it's worth, when I first installed the Antec 920 replacement, it also had the same noises (trapped air) from cold boot that causes grinding in the Corsair unit however the sound disappeared in mere seconds whereas the Corsair knocking persisted for several days and could not be fixed by any other means (tapping the block, shaking the radiator, etc.).

The thumb screw issue would only be for those with less dexterity or larger hands maneuvering around CPU sockets with many components around them. I eventually put some fabric tape on needlenose pliers and it did the trick.
 
Just got mine installed and only ran into one issue:

One of the wires keeps falling out of the molex connector and when it does, the pump lights shut off and the fans scream. Once it's connected again, all is well, but I'm going to have to fix this somehow. It's shutdown for now until I can fix it. I have not contacted Corsair but may to see if it somehow voids the warranty if I redo the molex connector.

I had absolutely no issues with the thumbscrews (not slotted). I tightened them by hand and worked great on a Gene-Z.

I also have no idea on the lot code as I had to send the UPC tag in for the rebate. It was purchased on BF from Newegg.
 
TypeO said:
I also have no idea on the lot code as I had to send the UPC tag in for the rebate. It was purchased on BF from Newegg.
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Wow, you didn't make a photocopy of your submission with the UPC code taped on the rebate form? If so, you are very trusting of the rebate process. I'd be out $20 if I hadn't had a copy of my rebate form the last time I did a Corsair rebate. Anyway, I pulled my lot number from my photocopy.
 
TypeO said:
Just got mine installed and only ran into one issue:

One of the wires keeps falling out of the molex connector and when it does, the pump lights shut off and the fans scream. Once it's connected again, all is well, but I'm going to have to fix this somehow. It's shutdown for now until I can fix it. I have not contacted Corsair but may to see if it somehow voids the warranty if I redo the molex connector.

I had absolutely no issues with the thumbscrews (not slotted). I tightened them by hand and worked great on a Gene-Z.

I also have no idea on the lot code as I had to send the UPC tag in for the rebate. It was purchased on BF from Newegg.
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Yes, that is one issue I forgot to mention. The molex connector is extremely cheap and definitely needs to be addressed - not the plastic housing, but the pins. The metal is extremely soft on the legs that keep the pins in the housing and they bend and snap easily. That's why your molex connector keeps falling out. I haven't seen such a cheap molex pin in over 15 years and was another big factor in returning it because otherwise I would have needed to strip the connector and reclamp a replacement pin head. On my Corsair TX850M, the female molex end had extremely tight sockets and everytime I tried to insert the molex connector from the H80, no matter how carefully I did it, the legs would bend in and nearly snap off due to metal fatigue. The only solution was to remove the pins from the receptacle and force them into the female molex sockets by hand (which still took some strength because of the size tolerances of both parts from the Corsair TX 850M and the Corsair H80 were not good) and electrical tape it up.
 
mls1995 said:
Wow, you didn't make a photocopy of your submission with the UPC code taped on the rebate form? If so, you are very trusting of the rebate process. I'd be out $20 if I hadn't had a copy of my rebate form the last time I did a Corsair rebate. Anyway, I pulled my lot number from my photocopy.
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I forgot to and that was my error. Although, my rebate has already been received, is valid, and is being mailed. Dodged that one.


Spare-Flair...yes, that is probably the worst molex connector I've ever seen. I didn't even pull on it. I simply plugged it in and it fell out about 5 minutes after I had powered on the system. I've noticed a lot of people have stated this around various forums. I'm starting to wondering if people complaining about the "screaming fans" & "no lights on pump" are simply related to this. Perhaps Redbeard may know more about this particular issue.
 
I recieved and H80 for christmas, and my pump started grinding like mad. Stopped working, then started working again before I took it back and exchanged it. I hope the exchange doesnt have any issues. The new unit seems to ramp the fans down slower then the first one. I the first unit the fans went to full speed at power up, and dont to low speed and silent before machine was done posting. The new unit slowly ramps the fans down, and doesnt get to low speed until windows is almost done booting to desktop.
 
nlancaster said:
I recieved and H80 for christmas, and my pump started grinding like mad. Stopped working, then started working again before I took it back and exchanged it. I hope the exchange doesnt have any issues. The new unit seems to ramp the fans down slower then the first one. I the first unit the fans went to full speed at power up, and dont to low speed and silent before machine was done posting. The new unit slowly ramps the fans down, and doesnt get to low speed until windows is almost done booting to desktop.
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Good to hear that the one you got in exchange didn't have the grinding. All the ones in the store I returned mine too only had the batch serial numbers so I declined the exchange for another H80.
 
This is an RMA item, if you so desire.
I've got the same issue, except the power wire that comes out of mine results in no power to the unit at all (h100) ... i dont want to spend $30 to send it back, unless i cannot figure out how to repair this molex connection. I might jsut forgo the molex alltogether and use some of those rubber wire coupler things and make it a semi permanent connection.

TypeO said:
Just got mine installed and only ran into one issue:

One of the wires keeps falling out of the molex connector and when it does, the pump lights shut off and the fans scream. Once it's connected again, all is well, but I'm going to have to fix this somehow. It's shutdown for now until I can fix it. I have not contacted Corsair but may to see if it somehow voids the warranty if I redo the molex connector.

I had absolutely no issues with the thumbscrews (not slotted). I tightened them by hand and worked great on a Gene-Z.

I also have no idea on the lot code as I had to send the UPC tag in for the rebate. It was purchased on BF from Newegg.
Click to expand...
 
Momo said:
This is an RMA item, if you so desire.
I've got the same issue, except the power wire that comes out of mine results in no power to the unit at all (h100) ... i dont want to spend $30 to send it back, unless i cannot figure out how to repair this molex connection. I might jsut forgo the molex alltogether and use some of those rubber wire coupler things and make it a semi permanent connection.
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I decided not to RMA it (for now) and I ordered some of these to repair the connection:

http://www.xoxide.com/male-molex-pins.html

Whoever put the terminals in the plastic molex housing just did a piss poor job because the pin tines were bent on both leads and the tines broke off so that they no longer stay in. They were like this when I got it.

If you're not getting power to it even when connected, how do you plan to fix it? Maybe I'm not reading it right. Sounds to me like you may have more of a pump issue than power issue. I hope you get it fixed.
 
Just got my Corsair H80 today and hooked it up. Molex connector was a piece of crap, pins were all warped and the plastic casing fell off. Anyway, I hooked it up and turned on computer. Loud spark and burned smell. Everything is fried. Really pissed off about this. Computer still works but H80 is dead.
 
bjornb17 said:
Just got my Corsair H80 today and hooked it up. Molex connector was a piece of crap, pins were all warped and the plastic casing fell off. Anyway, I hooked it up and turned on computer. Loud spark and burned smell. Everything is fried. Really pissed off about this. Computer still works but H80 is dead.
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If it was broke and you hooked it up anyway you have no one to blame but yourself.

Hope you can return it or RMA it to get some replacement.
 
Momo said:
This is an RMA item, if you so desire.
I've got the same issue, except the power wire that comes out of mine results in no power to the unit at all (h100) ... i dont want to spend $30 to send it back, unless i cannot figure out how to repair this molex connection. I might jsut forgo the molex alltogether and use some of those rubber wire coupler things and make it a semi permanent connection.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's not necessary to repair the connection. The connector is just cheap and hell and breaks easily because the metal is too soft on the tines. Take the pins out and directly plug them into the female molex end on your power supply. Make sure you match up the correct wires.

Properly insulate.
 
nlancaster said:
If it was broke and you hooked it up anyway you have no one to blame but yourself.

Hope you can return it or RMA it to get some replacement.
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Yeah I shouldn't have hooked it up, I accept that, but it would have been nice if it hadn't arrived defective.
 
I would like to add to this thread. I had recently helped a co-worker build a new gamer PC.

Well I got him the H70 for his 2500k so he could overclock.

The H70 would work perfectly fine if you laid the case on its side, but as soon as you stood up the case, the H70 made a loud ass grinding/hissing sound that was louder thent he stock fans in his case.

I knew about this thread and the issues, but I figure i would give corsair the benefit of the doubt.

But yea stay away from these coolers right now.
 
Well I got me replacment in and thought everthing was ok. but this unit is not changing the fan speed no matter how how the system gets.

Batch# 11459402

Time to go back one more time, and if this doesnt work I give up on corsair.
 
nlancaster said:
Well I got me replacment in and thought everthing was ok. but this unit is not changing the fan speed no matter how how the system gets.

Batch# 11459402

Time to go back one more time, and if this doesnt work I give up on corsair.
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Is the pump quiet?
 
i cant hear it. And found that if I leave it in balanced mode the fans dont change speed. in full power mode they do change speed.
 
I installed a H-60 on my son's 1055T tonight we got from Tiger for $49. It works like a champ, its absolutely quiet as heck and dropped the temps from 48C to 30C. I added another Cooler master fan to the other side so its push-pull, like the H-70/80. Look forward to installing one on my 2500K this week.
 
I just installed two H100's in this system and I can't hear the pumps at all. The system is quite quiet overall as well.

h100.jpg
 
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