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AquaStream XT

n00btard said:
She was an AC fanatic who was banned not too long ago.
Click to expand...

Yeah, too bad too.... While she was a fan of AC, without her we might not have seen US distribution of the product. Here only flaw was she didn't know when to stop, unlike some other people on this forum who should have been banned too.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Yeah, too bad too.... While she was a fan of AC, without her we might not have seen US distribution of the product. Here only flaw was she didn't know when to stop, unlike some other people on this forum who should have been banned too.
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Mon amie, she sounds like my kinda woman. I love them when they can't stop. :D
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Yeah, too bad too.... While she was a fan of AC, without her we might not have seen US distribution of the product. Here only flaw was she didn't know when to stop, unlike some other people on this forum who should have been banned too.
Click to expand...

Yep, there definitely should have been others... But usernotes add up over time sadly :eek:

waterlogged said:
Mon amie, she sounds like my kinda woman. I love them when they can't stop. :D
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Hahaha :D
 
DeriC said:
the XT was @87,5Hz :D http://freenet-homepage.de/derics/Aquastream/Aquasuite1.JPG

In my system the XT can be up to 89,5Hz.Theoretical the XT can be up to 100Hz, in a real system mostly about 85-90Hz. The temps with XT and Laing were roughly the same. The average Temps during the 2 hours of testing:


XT
Water before Rad: 31,50°
Water after Rad: 30,93°
Cpu: 41,86°
Diode: 38,14°
Flow: 97,62l/h

if u used pumpadapter with 1/4" the flow can be increased up to ~5-8l/h, i´ve used the new flowmeter with 5,6mm

Laing DDC 1T
Water before Rad: 31,51°
Water after Rad: 30,8°
Cpu: 42,14°
Diode: 37,86°
Flow: 103,39l/h

need an english lesson, hope u can understand it :D
Click to expand...
At tiny level of flow difference that you were seeing earlier, it's not too surprising that you saw close to the same temperatures, although they don't quite make sense. The extra few watts that the DDC uses (and puts into the loop as heat) compared to the Aquastream XT could make it perform worse - but if the radiator water in/out temperatures are almost identical (or at least show less of a difference than the CPU temperatures), some sensor isn't showing data that quite matches the laws of physics ;)

However, that miniscule difference is within most people's acceptable margin of error. It wouldn't be too much of a stretch to say the Aquastream XT can perform very close to a DDC (at lower restriction loops at least - it's hard to tell without seeing a real PQ curve). Price and space wise, any DDC (ncluding with a top) has the XT beat by a large margin, but the integrated monitoring and software will be worth it to some.

Oh, and we can understand you perfectly well, don't worry :)
 
ikellensbro said:
However, that miniscule difference is within most people's acceptable margin of error. It wouldn't be too much of a stretch to say the Aquastream XT can perform very close to a DDC (at lower restriction loops at least - it's hard to tell without seeing a real PQ curve). Price and space wise, any DDC (ncluding with a top) has the XT beat by a large margin, but the integrated monitoring and software will be worth it to some.
Click to expand...

I see the Laing units with the plexi tops all the time and the actual space factor isn't much difference. It's just in different dimensions. The one thing going for the Aquastream pump is that Aqua Computer makes a wide variety of pump mounts so you can do a better job of mounting them in a case. Thus you negate any size difference.

Price wise they aren't too much different if we are talking Euro's. Your money is getting more worthless so that is why you see a difference on your side of the pond. :p

Also keep in mind that the Laing DDC pumps have a real QC problem and to fix this you need a pump controller. Then the DDC is definitely getting more expensive.
 
ikellensbro: It doesn't matter what peoples personal margin of error is lol. I don't care whether those test results are in your margin of error or not. I care if they are within the margin of error of the measuring equipment and testing methodology. I would expect, what with changing the loop around (different mounts), and the thermistors margin of error you are looking at AT LEAST +- 5C for your margin of error. By all intents and purposes they are the same according to this testing methodology.
 
Depends whether they calibrated their sensors. However, since he didn't say one way or the other we would have to assume not. Assuming he used the standard AC sensors they could be off a whole lot if uncalibrated.
 
You guys sure there was someone around here called Top Nurse? Maybe a different spelling? I just did a search and very little even showed up outside this thread. :confused:
 
waterlogged said:
You guys sure there was someone around here called Top Nurse? Maybe a different spelling? I just did a search and very little even showed up outside this thread. :confused:
Click to expand...

When you piss off the big boss you typically get all of your posts deleted ;). You will find more current posts from her on the AC English Forum.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
When you piss off the big boss you typically get all of your posts deleted ;). You will find more current posts from her on the AC English Forum.
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Cennnnnsorrrrr...

This thread is going to get locked because we mentioned TN :p
 
Erasmus354 said:
You wouldn't buy a car if all you got were some pictures of the car, detailed shots of how the radio worked, and some dude saying "yea its kinda fast, it works for me" and cost 50% more than the car that told you everything about it. I don't buy a pump if I can't see exactly how it performs thank you very much.
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Your probably right as I don't have a lot of money. However, I have several brothers who do buy cars like that all the time.
 
waterlogged said:
Depends whether they calibrated their sensors. However, since he didn't say one way or the other we would have to assume not. Assuming he used the standard AC sensors they could be off a whole lot if uncalibrated.
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Even if calibrated the typical margin of error of these devices is in the +/- 1-3C range. Then you have to add in the margin of error introduced due to experimental method and you can easily have a margin of error of 5C or larger.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Yeah, too bad too.... While she was a fan of AC, without her we might not have seen US distribution of the product. Here only flaw was she didn't know when to stop, unlike some other people on this forum who should have been banned too.
Click to expand...

yep- I wasn't suprised she got the boot, but I was suprised a few of the fanbios from the other side of the fence didn't get the boot with her
 
Erasmus354 said:
Even if calibrated the typical margin of error of these devices is in the +/- 1-3C range. Then you have to add in the margin of error introduced due to experimental method and you can easily have a margin of error of 5C or larger.
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Yes, but these are for uncorrected sensors. When you calibrate them at both zero centigrade and 100 centigrade you get a fairly accurate sensor reading in the Aquaero. Of course you also have to take into account teh electronics error as well, but if your calibrated that difference is miniscule. On my unit I calibrate at zero and 100 centigrade. I also spot check with a Fluke temp probe and my sensors are spot on.
 
waterlogged said:
Yes, but these are for uncorrected sensors. When you calibrate them at both zero centigrade and 100 centigrade you get a fairly accurate sensor reading in the Aquaero. Of course you also have to take into account teh electronics error as well, but if your calibrated that difference is miniscule. On my unit I calibrate at zero and 100 centigrade. I also spot check with a Fluke temp probe and my sensors are spot on.
Click to expand...

What do you do to do this? Do you freeze one in a block of ice, calibrate, and then stick it in boiling water and calibrate again? I only remember seeing one offset in the Aquaero; how do you calibrate it twice?
 
waterlogged said:
Yes, but these are for uncorrected sensors. When you calibrate them at both zero centigrade and 100 centigrade you get a fairly accurate sensor reading in the Aquaero. Of course you also have to take into account teh electronics error as well, but if your calibrated that difference is miniscule. On my unit I calibrate at zero and 100 centigrade. I also spot check with a Fluke temp probe and my sensors are spot on.
Click to expand...

Calibration does not overcome the inherent inaccuracy of the temperature probe, it can only help to mitigate it. You still are not getting an extremely accurate reading.
 
headala said:
What do you do to do this? Do you freeze one in a block of ice, calibrate, and then stick it in boiling water and calibrate again? I only remember seeing one offset in the Aquaero; how do you calibrate it twice?
Click to expand...

Well, technically the delta between expected (either 0c or 100c) should remain the same between both tests :)

Calibration does not overcome the inherent inaccuracy of the temperature probe, it can only help to mitigate it. You still are not getting an extremely accurate reading.
Click to expand...

So? The end result is a more accurate display of temperatures... What you said is akin to Windows users heckling mac users about virus infestations, "You guys never get viruses because nobody bothers to write them for the mac lolol". The end result is that there are less viruses, so who cares?

As long as the inaccuracies can be relatively well predicted and accounted for, then your level of precision rises accordingly.

waterlogged said:
Also keep in mind that the Laing DDC pumps have a real QC problem and to fix this you need a pump controller. Then the DDC is definitely getting more expensive.
Click to expand...

Not true for all Laing pumps. The DDC? Yep, but the D5 is by far the most reliable DC pump I've ever used. I've never actually heard of one failing from anything but user error.
 
Too bad for Top Nurse, she was the best Aqua Computer contributer on Hardforum.

If anyone is selling their old AquaStream let me know, I might have a use for one.
 
headala said:
What do you do to do this? Do you freeze one in a block of ice, calibrate, and then stick it in boiling water and calibrate again? I only remember seeing one offset in the Aquaero; how do you calibrate it twice?
Click to expand...

Play around with the Sensor Factor.

Mr Wizard comes to the [H] :D Actually I saw this a while back and was posted by a cool guy here in this same forum. Strange that it didn't come up in a search though. :( :confused:

Get two big styrofoam cups with a travel lid.

Stack them both together.

Get gallon distilled h20 and put in frig over night.

Make some distilled h20 ice cubes with those old ice cibe trays. The girlie ones work great. ;)

Grab your girlie cubes and throw them in a clean gallon size heavy duty ziploc.

Beat the shit out of your girlies till you got broken up girlies.

Put broken up girlie cubes in your stacked styrofoam cup.

Pour in cooled distilled h20 so it is about 80% full.

Get a swizzle stick and stir the crap out of the ice water for at least 5 minutes.

Put travel lid on cups and agitate the solution more.

Put your sensors in the solution and check your temps as it should now be 0 degrees Centigrade (Melting distilled ice is 0 centigrade)

Adjust your sensor offsets accordingly.


Boiling distilled h20 at sea level is exactly 100 degrees centigrade (also from the cool dude as well, just can't remember his name)
 
Erasmus354 said:
Calibration does not overcome the inherent inaccuracy of the temperature probe, it can only help to mitigate it. You still are not getting an extremely accurate reading.
Click to expand...

Who gives a rats ass if it is off a few tenths of a degree? We aren't rocket scientists where a few arc seconds might make the difference between a nice orbit and a moon shooter, right?
:confused:
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Nope,,,,, other than it will take months for Aquacomputer to ship to Sharka. If you want it NOW, your best bet is through Aquacomputer.
Click to expand...

WHY? If AC can ship anywhere in the world and their European distributors can ship these products why can't your USA distributor get them? :confused:
 
I got one, but I won't install it before they release the new firmware. Currently the pump appears to have a few nagging problems.

1) circuit plate temp probe indicates overheating too soon
2) fan overload protection is set too tight and may give you errors without anything being wrong or even when nothing is connected.
3) ramping up to a preset frequency appears to be hit or miss
4) integration with Aquaero and Aqausuite is ok but still needs a little polishing
 
waterlogged said:
WHY? If AC can ship anywhere in the world and their European distributors can ship these products why can't your USA distributor get them? :confused:
Click to expand...

I think I remember someone telling me that they wait and make a big order because of shipping and customs.
 
As somebody who is a novice in w/c, and is interested in making the transition, is this a bit much for a first-timer?
 
I wonder if the controller alone will be available without the pump. I see replacement pumps without controllers, but not the other way around. I already have a 1046 I would like to convert to 12v.
 
That is not possible because the aquastream is different from to the 1046.

But it will be possible to upgrade all old aquastream pumps.
 
HyperTension said:
As somebody who is a novice in w/c, and is interested in making the transition, is this a bit much for a first-timer?
Click to expand...

Well, I guess it depends on your perspective. You can run an AC unit without any extras and do just fine. If you add in the extras, then you can either go with the default settings or customize as you see fit. Look at it like you are buying a kick ass stereo, but when you first want to turn it on you just want to hear some music. A few days later you may want to tweak your "stereo." If you got the "extras" you can then do what you want, when you want.

Kbofwy said:
I wonder if the controller alone will be available without the pump. I see replacement pumps without controllers, but not the other way around. I already have a 1046 I would like to convert to 12v.
Click to expand...

The 1046 is an AC (alternating current) pump. The older style Aquastream used a controller board to convert DC (direct current) to AC. So I see no reason why you can't buy a older Aquastream board and interface it to your present Eheim 1046. Not sure if you could use the newer style pump controller or not.

Perhaps Shoggy will pop in and tell all :D
 
Shoggy said:
That is not possible because the aquastream is different from to the 1046.

But it will be possible to upgrade all old aquastream pumps.
Click to expand...

So what is the difference between the 1046 and an Aquastream? Is it a completely different voltage as that is the only thing I could see being a problem here.
 
The pumps engine is different. The aquastream pump works with 9 V.
 
waterlogged said:
Play around with the Sensor Factor.

Mr Wizard comes to the [H] :D Actually I saw this a while back and was posted by a cool guy here in this same forum. Strange that it didn't come up in a search though. :( :confused:

Get two big styrofoam cups with a travel lid.

Stack them both together.

Get gallon distilled h20 and put in frig over night.

Make some distilled h20 ice cubes with those old ice cibe trays. The girlie ones work great. ;)

Grab your girlie cubes and throw them in a clean gallon size heavy duty ziploc.

Beat the shit out of your girlies till you got broken up girlies.

Put broken up girlie cubes in your stacked styrofoam cup.

Pour in cooled distilled h20 so it is about 80% full.

Get a swizzle stick and stir the crap out of the ice water for at least 5 minutes.

Put travel lid on cups and agitate the solution more.

Put your sensors in the solution and check your temps as it should now be 0 degrees Centigrade (Melting distilled ice is 0 centigrade)

Adjust your sensor offsets accordingly.


Boiling distilled h20 at sea level is exactly 100 degrees centigrade (also from the cool dude as well, just can't remember his name)
Click to expand...

Guilty. The post got the axe in the TN "purge".

Jr High Science class was full of the most plain looking girls, I had litte else to do but pay attention. Google "ice bath" for more info.

Damn that software is really sweet stuff.

I will add I did quite an investigation of temp senors for "you know who" based on her question of accuracy and how to calibrate. What I found susprised me, even very inexpensive thermistors can be had with a .1C error in the temp range we are looking at for less than a buck, I think I found them in allied electronics cataloge. It would then be up to the accuracy of the voltage divider circuit, (precision of the resistors mainly, temp drift too but not so much) BUT if you throw in the ability of the sofware to add compensation values you can get damn good accuracy. I was at first guessing it would be lucky if the system could get within 10%, but if you buy a precision thermister (no idea of precision of the stock ones I think they say 1C, but I dont really remember) and take care calibrating it I managed to convince myself you could get a 1% accuracy over 0 to 100C as the resistance error in the voltage circuit would remain fairly constant and could be adjusted out. I was truly amazed at how cheap a precision thermistor was, the trimming for accuracy is part of the manufacturing process and apparently they got it down pat. (enven a cheap A/D converter used to digitize the voltage at the resistance divider cicuit would be very very accurate. )

Note
My apologies for the 'plain girls' remark, I keep it in the post to show how stupid boys are, I imagine one of those "plain girls" has had a space shuttle ride and I certainly have not. God Bless You every one.
 
BillParrish said:
Guilty. The post got the axe in the TN "purge".

Jr High Science class was full of the most plain looking girls, I had litte else to do but pay attention. Google "ice bath" for more info.

Damn that software is really sweet stuff.

I will add I did quite an investigation of temp senors for "you know who" based on her question of accuracy and how to calibrate.
Click to expand...

Yep that's the guy who posted a long time ago. Anything new to add to the poor instructions I remembered? Which software you gabbing about?

You know who as in Voldermort? Was the nurse that bad? Just how much info went by the wayside in the "purge"?
 
Experiences, tutorials, mini-reviews, links, etc. all went bye-bye. But that's their prerogative, it's their forums.

Just to clarify, the Eheim pump was modified by Aqua Computer to the point where I don't think a stock one could be modded to an Aquastream just by replacing some of the electronics.

The Aquastream XT seems even further from a stock Eheim, so I doubt it's possible. Well, I guess anything's possible, but you might as well just buy a new Aquastream XT instead of spending gobs of time and money to convert the Eheim.
 
Arcygenical said:
A Huge, multi thousand post thread about AC information and the like.
Click to expand...

headala said:
Experiences, tutorials, mini-reviews, links, etc. all went bye-bye. But that's their prerogative, it's their forums.
Click to expand...

You guys couldn't talk them into restoring it? I would have loved to see that as the AC info elsewhere is kind of spotty in English.

Just to clarify, the Eheim pump was modified by Aqua Computer to the point where I don't think a stock one could be modded to an Aquastream just by replacing some of the electronics.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know what voltage the stock Eheim 1046 runs on?
 
waterlogged said:
You guys couldn't talk them into restoring it? I would have loved to see that as the AC info elsewhere is kind of spotty in English.

Does anyone know what voltage the stock Eheim 1046 runs on?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that it ran off the mains, either 110V or 220V. I found 1 adapter kit a while back that could covert it to 12 V to run off internal computer DC power.
 
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