Antec 300 radiator/fan question

R

Rang

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 14, 2006
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I'm planning on watercooling an antec 300 after I mod it a bit. I want to mount it in the front (picture below). My question relates to the fans on the radiator. Would it be better to just put the radiator behind the current fans case>fans>radiator or go case>radiator>fans.

antec300b.jpg
 
Most people I see do a push pull with dual 120mm rads in that position... but really onless you got an antec 300 already. NZXT M59 has room for a dual 120mm rad at top at stock and nice window.
 
Stupid question. How does push pull work? I've seen the term used a lot but never saw an explanation. I did order an antec 300 but haven't picked it up yet.
 
its when you have fans on both side of the fan. one is pulling and other pushing across the heatsink.
 
Gotcha, thanks! Also, one more question. I ordered 1/2" OD fittings and ordered 1/2" ID tubing. I was just talking to a buddy about this and he said the tubing wont fit tight enough and I should get 3/8" ID tubing instead. Is this correct?
 
Sorta, a lot of people warm the ends of 7/16 ID in very hot water to soften them up and shove them on 1/2 fittings. When they cool the plastic shrinks and makes a tight as hell connection. Many times you have to cut the tubing off with a razor knife if you ever want to take the tubing off. So in that sense its good and its one way to prevent leaks. 3/8 might go on but it would be a struggle, I have never tired it and think it is too small but I am sure someone out there managed to make it work. 7/16 "stretched" to go 1/2 is pretty common.

But on the other hand, 1/2 tubing on a good 1/2 barb is fine but and its a big BUT you should/must use a decent clamp (like radiator hose clamps IMO). Some people tye-wrap and some use the plastic squeeze thingies neither of which would allow me to sleep at night worrying about a leak. But I do not want to cause a flame war, everyone has different ideas. So yes with 1/2 hose on a 1/2 inch clamp it will work but the sad tails of drenched and dead video cards is long and bitter. Just get some decent clamps, apply snug but not so tight you damage the hose and you will be fine. As I mentioned, the small heater hose automotive clamps available at any auto parts store and/or hardware store are cheap and will ensure no leaks, ever.

Bottom line is you are far far far better off making double damn sure it will never ever leak when you do the initial install.

/insert leak test before firing up motherboard comment here.
 
I ordered some of those plastic clamps w/ teeth that squeeze together. I'd like the safest option possible, which sounds like switching to 7/16 ID tubing. Should I get some of these instead or just change my order to some 7/16 ID? http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohocl.html

Edit: looks like my order shipped with 1/2" ID tubing, if I do get some good clamps will there still be risk of leaking?
 
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If you install the clamps you linked too in the post right before this one, you will be absolutely fine.

You want to tighten them nice and snug but do not crank down on them with a wrench or anything crazy as it will chew up the tubing. Good and tight with a 6 or 8 inch screwdriver.

There should be no chance of leaking, ever, if you get them on properly.

That said. A key step in installing Watercooling is to leak test. Get everything installed, wired and ready to go.

Pull the main ATX (the big 24 pin one) power connector off of the motherboard. Pull the CPU aux power 2x2 4pin or 2x4 8 pin, depending on your motherboard/power supply off of the motherboard. It is usually OK to leave drives hooked up as the power supply wants some load. Make sure everything, especially the hose connections are dry. Do the "PSU paper-clip trick" http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html to start the PSU and get your pump running (NEVER RUN PUMP WITHOUT WATER, it will instantly damage the bearing and reduce pump life) and let it run for an hour and check for leaks. I have seen people position paper towels under every connection so that even one drop was easy detected.

You are right to be concerned with leaks. But do a good install job, cut tubing evenly, make sure all fittings are tight and do not trust they came from the factory that way, install your clamps, do a leak test and then forget about it. If done right on install about the only thing that can ever go wrong in the future is something made of acrylic stress cracking because it was not evenly tighten down or over tightened. This happens rarely with plastic reservoirs or CPU water block and is mostly due to installation error. My old school 1/2 hose heater core system has been chugging away for 7 years.

Do not panic if after a few weeks it looks like you lost some water somewhere. Tubing is permable, meaning water will actually migrate through the hose and evaporate in microscopic amounts. So having to "top off " the system every now and then is normal.

You will be paranoid as hell for a week or two but relax. Check it constanty but in a while you wont even think about it.

Be sure an rinse your rad out before you install it. Usually they are clean but sometimes there is crap from the manufacturing in there that needs rinising out. Only takes a second to make sure its clean.
 
Cool deal, thanks for the help! I ended up getting a different case (coolermaster cm690) and threw everything in it till my wc parts are all in. I'm planning on sticking the radiator up top in this case (picture: http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5272/img4499b.jpg).. I've got a question about the layout, should I have the fittings on the radiator on the left side (closer to cpu) or on the right giving it more distance/room for the tubing to bend since it'll go straight from the rad to cpu block. I ended up ordering some 7/16 tubing as well if that makes a difference, might as well try both since it was 56c a foot.
 
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