AIO converted to open loop!

[VanGoghComplex]

Edit: title updated. Scroll down!

My brother has a GTX 970 and a Corsair H100i. He liked my watercooled GPU, so he bought one of Corsair's brackets to mount their AIO coolers onto graphics cards.

Problem is, the hoses aren't really long enough to go anywhere he wants to place the radiator in his Enthoo Pro. So, I bought him a Swiftech Micro res, and we're gonna crack that puppy open and replumb it like a custom loop.

Problem is, I have no idea what to fill it with. I've seen online that they're filled with 50/50 distilled and ethylene glycol. Would automotive antifreeze work? Would it have the right anti-corrosive and biocidal properties?

What do you guys think?

 

[pendragon1]

that's all I used but not 50/50 more like 90/10 dw to af. but I didn't add a res just replaced/extended the hoses and refilled. make sure your res is eg safe.

 

[Pabaisa]

Just buy your choise of water cooling coolant (mayhems, ek etc.) as they have everything you will need (to prevent galvanic corrosion and growth of flora in your loop). Also as you are going to be buying coolant buy some tubing (those sold at general stores would be a no no as most of them contain plasticizer which in turn woud contaminate your block and most likely kill h100 pump)

.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

that's all I used but not 50/50 more like 90/10 dw to af. but I didn't add a res just replaced/extended the hoses and refilled. make sure your res is eg safe.

Cool, will do. The res is acrylic, so I think it should be alright. The tubing is some XSPC clear that I've got left over from another build.

I know we maybe don't need a res... but when he decides this isn't enough and wants to buy a real pump/blocks/rads, at least he'll already have one. XD

Here's a question though... Do you think an H100 pump would be enough to manage a CPU block in addition to itself? I've got a Raystorm lying around that I could gift him... =)

 

[Nenu]

A res will introduce turbulence and reduce flow rate.
It wont perform quite as well unless its a good design.
fyi

This is why I use a T-piece in my water loop to fill it and allow bubbles to exit.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

A res will introduce turbulence and reduce flow rate.
It wont perform quite as well unless its a good design.
fyi

This is why I use a T-piece in my water loop to fill it and allow bubbles to exit.

Makes sense, but I'm not introducing my brother to watercooling with a no-res setup. I started my watercooling adventures with one of those Swiftech combo units that had a teensy weensy res with an awful fillport location. Not subjecting him to that. XD

 

[pendragon1]

Cool, will do. The res is acrylic, so I think it should be alright. The tubing is some XSPC clear that I've got left over from another build.

I know we maybe don't need a res... but when he decides this isn't enough and wants to buy a real pump/blocks/rads, at least he'll already have one. XD

Here's a question though... Do you think an H100 pump would be enough to manage a CPU block in addition to itself? I've got a Raystorm lying around that I could gift him... =)

honestly no idea, never tried it. I have no idea what the pressure and flow rate are. id try it and see if I had the parts.

 

[Araxie]

Here's a question though... Do you think an H100 pump would be enough to manage a CPU block in addition to itself? I've got a Raystorm lying around that I could gift him... =)

if you remove the vanilla h100i heat spreader base (the block as itself) the pump can do an adequate job, you can achieve that by installing backward the copper base, just unscrew it, clean it properly and install the flat part inside the unit, so the microfins will be flipped outside the unit without affect the water flow and pressure, the pump as itself have somewhat good pressure, the problem with it is the fact that is so close to the block microfins that it reduce the flow dramatically, without that restriction it should be good enough..

I have tested this and done in the past with my h110i GT (same Asetek Pump as h100i but 280mm radiator) as I really liked to control the fans based in water temp so in that system I added a CPU block and even a GPU block with some rigid tubing and it just worked, all the 4 fans were controlled by the Water temp with a custom fan via Corsair Link.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

if you remove the vanilla h100i heat spreader base (the block as itself) the pump can do an adequate job, you can achieve that by installing backward the copper base, just unscrew it, clean it properly and install the flat part inside the unit, so the microfins will be flipped outside the unit without affect the water flow and pressure, the pump as itself have somewhat good pressure, the problem with it is the fact that is so close to the block microfins that it reduce the flow dramatically, without that restriction it should be good enough..

I have tested this and done in the past with my h110i GT (same Asetek Pump as h100i but 280mm radiator) as I really liked to control the fans based in water temp so in that system I added a CPU block and even a GPU block with some rigid tubing and it just worked, all the 4 fans were controlled by the Water temp with a custom fan via Corsair Link.

There's an idea. We want to keep using the block as a block though; it's on the GPU. That's neat to know. We've got another AIO that we'd be obsoleting if we did use the Raystorm on the CPU, so maybe we could series it.

 

[pendragon1]

you can achieve that by installing backward the copper base, just unscrew it, clean it properly and install the flat part inside the unit, so the microfins will be flipped outside the unit without affect the water flow and pressure, the pump as itself have somewhat good pressure, the problem with it is the fact that is so close to the block microfins that it reduce the flow dramatically, without that restriction it should be good enough..

that is a cool tip!

 

[VanGoghComplex]

Okay guys, prepare to be triggered, 'cause this is a little greasy.

Some time ago I gave my bro my old H100i GTX, as I had ascended to custom loop cooling. His CPU was already covered by an AIO unit, so I told him about Corsair's H10 GPU brackets and he picked one up for his 970.

He installed the cooler, plugged it all in, fired up Doom (2016), and his card immediately shot into the 90s before his screen went pink and his machine just shut down.

Understandably terrified, he put it back to stock and didn't touch it again, this being several months ago... until I convinced him to try it again. One of the problems he had with installing it was that his Enthoo Pro case didn't have a handy location for mounting the radiator. So, I hopped on Amazon and spent $20 on a reservoir for him. I happened to know the Corsair AIO was hiding 3/8" barbs under the stock tubes, and happened to have plenty of 3/8" fittings and tubing to choose from.

We figured out fairly quickly why his machine tried to roast his card. His cooler was plugged into a mobo fan header which was set to a silent fan profile in the bios. The pump was so undervolted it wasn't even turning. A molex-3pin adapter solved that problem.

The rest was pretty straightforward. We used a 10/1 distilled/antifreeze mix for the coolant, having read somewhere that that's essentially what Corsair uses. The pump is... anemic. Actually, saying that is pretty mean to anemic people. It has a hard time overpowering bubbles in vertical sections of the tubing, so bleeding was a chore.

Temperatures are pretty impressive for what this is. Valley on extreme HD seemed to level out at around 45c. He's doing a longer-term leak test overnight, but we wanted to make sure it was functional before submitting it to the long test.

Be triggered! Be mad! This setup cost us $60, if you disregard stuff we already owned! Bwahaha

 

[VanGoghComplex]

Okay, so it's time for a little update on my brother's setup. He did a little bit of lighting work on his case:

Pretty, innit?

We're discovering that the pump in the AIO unit is far too weak to do the job. He keeps thinking he's got the system bled, and new and gigantic bubbles keep crawling out of his radiator and up into his pump, which doesn't have the power to pass them.

He's ordering a 2x120x60mm rad, a proper CPU block, and an Alphacool DDC310. I'm provisioning the rest of his upgrade with a Raystorm that we're gonna modify to fit the HG10 GPU bracket, a pump top, and all his fittings.

Will post updates when we're done!

 

[Nebulous]

That's pretty ingenious work bro. I'm a fan of DIY mods! If you can make it work, then go ahead and do it!

 

[thesmokingman]

We're discovering that the pump in the AIO unit is far too weak to do the job. He keeps thinking he's got the system bled, and new and gigantic bubbles keep crawling out of his radiator and up into his pump, which doesn't have the power to pass them.

In the future when doing this try to match the existing ID tubing. I've found 1/4in tubing works well to keep the flow rate up.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

In the future when doing this try to match the existing ID tubing. I've found 1/4in tubing works well to keep the flow rate up.

That's the thing though, we did. Corsair's tubing wasn't exactly 3/8, but the barbs definitely were and our tubing was.

I'm beginning to think these CLCs just have abysmal flow rates, and it's just barely enough to perform.

 

[Chapeau]

Wow.... nice work on the case. The pics with the lighting are awesome.. He must be pretty happy with the result.

 

[Araxie]

Okay guys, prepare to be triggered, 'cause this is a little greasy.

Some time ago I gave my bro my old H100i GTX, as I had ascended to custom loop cooling. His CPU was already covered by an AIO unit, so I told him about Corsair's H10 GPU brackets and he picked one up for his 970.

He installed the cooler, plugged it all in, fired up Doom (2016), and his card immediately shot into the 90s before his screen went pink and his machine just shut down.

Understandably terrified, he put it back to stock and didn't touch it again, this being several months ago... until I convinced him to try it again. One of the problems he had with installing it was that his Enthoo Pro case didn't have a handy location for mounting the radiator. So, I hopped on Amazon and spent $20 on a reservoir for him. I happened to know the Corsair AIO was hiding 3/8" barbs under the stock tubes, and happened to have plenty of 3/8" fittings and tubing to choose from.

We figured out fairly quickly why his machine tried to roast his card. His cooler was plugged into a mobo fan header which was set to a silent fan profile in the bios. The pump was so undervolted it wasn't even turning. A molex-3pin adapter solved that problem.

The rest was pretty straightforward. We used a 10/1 distilled/antifreeze mix for the coolant, having read somewhere that that's essentially what Corsair uses. The pump is... anemic. Actually, saying that is pretty mean to anemic people. It has a hard time overpowering bubbles in vertical sections of the tubing, so bleeding was a chore.

View attachment 27637 View attachment 27638

View attachment 27639

Temperatures are pretty impressive for what this is. Valley on extreme HD seemed to level out at around 45c. He's doing a longer-term leak test overnight, but we wanted to make sure it was functional before submitting it to the long test.

Be triggered! Be mad! This setup cost us $60, if you disregard stuff we already owned! Bwahaha

may I ask why the rear to front fan airflow?..

 

[VanGoghComplex]

may I ask why the rear to front fan airflow?..

My brother's case sits in a cubby in a desk that's he's maritally not allowed to get rid of. There's room on the sides of the case, but absolutely no clearance on top. Thus, his front is exhausting out into the room and intake comes in through the back.

His call, not mine, but he says it helped his temps.

 

[Archaea]

That's the thing though, we did. Corsair's tubing wasn't exactly 3/8, but the barbs definitely were and our tubing was.

I'm beginning to think these CLCs just have abysmal flow rates, and it's just barely enough to perform.

Ha you modified a closed loop CPU cooler into a open loop cooler that also involved the GPU? Don't blame the closed loop cooler for not being up to the task. It would have worked perfectly for years on its own two feet.

(I pull a 18' flatbed trailer with my Honda Accord and I can't figure out why it doesn't have any power to accelerate on the interstate.). Horses for courses.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

Ha you modified a closer loop CPU cooler into a open loop cooler that also involved the GPU. Don't blame the closed loop cooler for not being up to the task. It would have worked perfectly for years on its own two feet.

(I pull a 18' flatbed trailer with my Honda Accord and I can't figure out why it doesn't have any power to accelerate on the interstate.). Horses for courses.

Uh... We didn't add a GPU to the closed loop cooler. We used the closed loop cooler on the GPU.

The only thing we added to the loop was the reservoir. Other than that and some slightly longer tubes, it's about the same as it was before we opened it up.

If you'd bothered to read the thread, you'd have seen that I wasn't complaining about the performance. 45c at full load on his card is great. The pump is just too weak to bleed the loop. This is not surprising, given that it didn't need to bleed anything the way it was designed, so I can't fault it. Just noting that, now that I can see it, the flow seems shockingly low.

 

[pendragon1]

is the pump running at full voltage? even if it is that temp is good and it probably doesn't really need to move any faster. looks cool and I love making use of shit you already got. I just slapped my H110i gt on to my 280x, since my main mobo/cpu died, and it hasn't broken 42c.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

is the pump running at full voltage? even if it is that temp is good and it probably doesn't really need to move any faster. looks cool and I love making use of shit you already got. I just slapped my H110i gt on to my 280x, since my main mobo/cpu died, and it hasn't broken 42c.

Yep, we're running it straight off the PSU. No tach, unfortunately, but we couldn't seem to get the mobo headers to provide full voltage.

 

[Angry]

Yep, we're running it straight off the PSU. No tach, unfortunately, but we couldn't seem to get the mobo headers to provide full voltage.

It could be the pump is having issues from being upside down.
Granted the res is at a higher level than the pump...so that should really be helping it out.

I'm looking to throw AIO's on both of my 970's as they keep getting toasty at 75-80c. And the fans eventually kick into high gear on long sessions of load.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

It could be the pump is having issues from being upside down.
Granted the res is at a higher level than the pump...so that should really be helping it out.

I'm looking to throw AIO's on both of my 970's as they keep getting toasty at 75-80c. And the fans eventually kick into high gear on long sessions of load.

The pump being upside down in and of itself isn't a problem, I don't think. However, priming the pump in this configuration is very difficult.

 

[tangoseal]

Just buy your choise of water cooling coolant (mayhems, ek etc.) as they have everything you will need (to prevent galvanic corrosion and growth of flora in your loop). Also as you are going to be buying coolant buy some tubing (those sold at general stores would be a no no as most of them contain plasticizer which in turn woud contaminate your block and most likely kill h100 pump)

.

Get on FrozenCPU and order Tygon medical grade tubing. Its designed not to collapse or leech. Lives depend on it haha.

Also water pumps work best at the lowest point in the loop. A res should be a good gravity feed for your pump. That is the whole point to a res.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

Get on FrozenCPU and order Tygon medical grade tubing. Its designed not to collapse or leech. Lives depend on it haha.

Also water pumps work best at the lowest point in the loop. A res should be a good gravity feed for your pump. That is the whole point to a res.

Yep... that's why the res was mounted higher than the pump. Since the pump was on the GPU, though, making it the lowest point in the loop was a bit of a stretch.

That's all water through the block, though. My plan worked: bro got his feet wet and asked me to do a parts list to go to a real pump and blocks, including his CPU in the loop.

He's all Heatkiller with a DDC310 and a Phobya rad, now. I'll get pics eventually. =)

 

[phantommaggot]

I can't believe your using antifreeze. That stuff will eat up pc liquid cooling hardware.

 

[pendragon1]

all the aios have an anti-freeze mix in them. its only like a 90/10% mix of water and af. you cant use PG based tubes but that's aboot it.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

I can't believe your using antifreeze. That stuff will eat up pc liquid cooling hardware.

Nah. It worked fine and the blocks were good.

I didn't use straight-up antifreeze, either. It was a pretty diluted mix. We needed the anticorrosives since we were mixing metals.

This loop has been decommissioned in favor of the real thing, but it worked for a few months with no problems. =)

 

[phantommaggot]

Glad it worked.

 

[McCHillin]

This gives me hope, I have done every thing I could on a budget...... I might try this to get my feet wet (not my pc, lol)