42" OLED MASTER THREAD

[kasakka]

I have a quick survey question as I am no longer buying the 48" 4K OLED from my 43" 4K LED LCD:

How many of you own a 40" or higher LED LCD, and ditch that LED LCD and upgrade to a 42" or 48" OLED just because it's OLED?

Does it count that I was using a 49" 5120x1440 superultrawide LCD and moved to a 48" OLED TV? At the time the OLED seemed like the best overall compromise: great pixel response times, good HDR, 4K...the only caveats seemed to be potential burn-in and large size.

The size turned out to be the big issue for me. Due to the pixel structure of the LG WOLED, it was not great to use at 100% scaling. 120% (MacOS) worked well, but I missed the desktop space of the superultrawide since the equivalent. 3200x1800 is not 5120x1440 and the added vertical space doesn't make up for it. Due to the size I used the TV more like an ultrawide, leaving the top 1/3 or 1/4 of the display empty because the height even at 1m viewing distance felt a bit uncomfortable.

Turns out that my uses are also about 70% work/desktop use and 30% gaming/media. So when I moved, the 48" became a living room TV and I moved to dual 28" Samsung G70A 4K 144 Hz IPS displays as an interim solution since they were pretty cheap on sale.

I'd be interested in something like the 42" LG Flex if it had better specs as the price has been 3x C2 for ages and now is about 1.7x with not much more than the motorized curvature to show for it. But I don't see myself getting another large flat display regardless of the tech.

 

[Happy Hopping]

I will chime in here. Had a 40" Samsung 4K LCD and went to the 42 C2. It is not even close, the OLED is just an experience you have to have to believe. I use mine daily for work, and gaming is simply amazing.

if you pull out gaming, would you still buy it?

 

[zehoo]

I have a quick survey question as I am no longer buying the 48" 4K OLED from my 43" 4K LED LCD:

How many of you own a 40" or higher LED LCD, and ditch that LED LCD and upgrade to a 42" or 48" OLED just because it's OLED?

My 43” Sony lcd died which is why I picked up a 42”C2. Still partly regretting not going for the 42” Sony OLED for the better image processing.

 

[DooLocsta]

if you pull out gaming, would you still buy it?

I would. I use it everyday, 8 hours for work as my primary monitor. Granted, I do have a secondary monitor in portrait next to it that has all my icons/Outlook/Teams. I have almost 2K hours on it with this type of use and see no hint of any image retention.

 

[elvn]

My 43” Sony lcd died which is why I picked up a 42”C2. Still partly regretting not going for the 42” Sony OLED for the better image processing.

It's dated now without the chip required for youtube hdr but I'm extremely happy with the AI upscaling on my 2019 nvidia shield. I use that instead of the smartTV stuff, LG's webOS. On the very rare occasion I want to look into a HDR youtube video of a game I am considering buying or something, I'll just launch youtube on the tv (even by voice if I want to) but I only did that a few times early on with my OLED screens for kicks. I can't remember the last time I've done that. The shield was made with streaming/gaming in mind so it's processor still holds up even now. It's a very fast interface. You can also load a lot of google play store apps and 3rd party apps instead of the stock youtube, twitch etc. ones which has benefits, and you can customize the front page/desktop for yourself too avoiding adverts, etc. The smart tv environments don't allow for any of that in their walled gardens, and some of them can be slower by comparison to a shield. A shield (+ some named picture mode tweaking in LG OLED's OSD for example) could help make up for the picture differences between other tvs and sony's, especially in the nvidia AI upscaling department to 4k. Other than youtube HDR, the shield supports most formats, including dolby vision.

.
LG 42 C2 vs. Sony 42 A90K OLED

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tool...0k-oled/32614/32678?usage=3623&threshold=0.10

They basically say it comes down to what your priorities are. LG is better for gaming, Sony (without a shield or other 3rd party processing) is marginally better for media/movies but their HDR is a tied score on that generation.

The sony is "semi gloss" while the LG is glossy.

The Sony 42 A90K has excellent reflection handling. Reflections from bright light sources aren't very noticeable, but the anti-reflective coating gives everything a bit of a purple tint.

The LG has slightly faster response times at both 60hz and 120hz than the sony, and the sony has almost twice the input lag of the LG ( LG: 5.2ms vs Sony: 9.3ms at max fpsHz)

Imo LG's fw updates and feature upgrades seem to be much more frequent and healthier rollouts than most other manufacturer's too.

.
They give the sony points for their tv stand (meaningless to me since I always use a 3rd party mount or stand), and that it can do bright room viewing with brighter - SDR - which also doesn't mean very much to me. Their HDR performance is pretty much a tie. The gaming trumps the rest for my usage needs, especially since all of the other meaningful facets are also high performance/quality and nearly tied - so I'd still go with an LG if I had to do it over again unless maybe I was buying a sony as a living room movie screen almost exclusively instead of a pc gaming rig screen.

The Sony 42 A90K OLED is a bit better than the LG 42 C2 OLED overall, but the LG is better for gaming. The Sony has a slightly more adjustable stand and gets a bit brighter, so it looks better in a moderately lit room. The LG, on the other hand, has a wider range of gaming features, including FreeSync support, and all four of its HDMI ports support 4k @ 120Hz gaming.

. .
LG C2 vs Sony A90K HDR shows the LG actually brighter in some %'s of screen but they are comparable:

 

[sethk]

There were over 30 OLED monitor models shown at CES this week including ones with dolby vision. The 32” models with panels from both samsung (panels already available ) and LG (2nd half) are both interesting. Several models have improved pixel structure like RGWB for woled which is much closer to RgB and MLA for higher brightness, and 240hz@4k with an alternate 480hz mode for 1080p which would be a fun mode for retro emulation other tinkering I think.

 

[zehoo]

The lower price and input latency as well as the 4 hdmi 2.1 ports is what pushed me to LG instead of Sony. And I can't bring myself to spend money on a Shield to improve the upscaling on my C2 when Nvidia are massively overdue to replace the chip in it with something that has updated codec support etc (with any luck new shield with better upscaling and all the missing codec support will come soon using the chip they'll sell Nintendo for the next switch).

In 2-4 years time I suspect I'll have a 2nd 42" and maybe 3rd OLED to replace my Mac mini screens and give myself more table space since I'm starting to care less now about static images on the screen as I've yet to see any issues.

 

[elvn]

The lower price and input latency as well as the 4 hdmi 2.1 ports is what pushed me to LG instead of Sony. And I can't bring myself to spend money on a Shield to improve the upscaling on my C2 when Nvidia are massively overdue to replace the chip in it with something that has updated codec support etc (with any luck new shield with better upscaling and all the missing codec support will come soon using the chip they'll sell Nintendo for the next switch).

In 2-4 years time I suspect I'll have a 2nd 42" and maybe 3rd OLED to replace my Mac mini screens and give myself more table space since I'm starting to care less now about static images on the screen as I've yet to see any issues.

I can understand that but then again the sony is $200 more than the LG 42" vs 42" and the shield is $200 or less

Some people in threads say maybe a new shield sometime after nvidia makes a chip for the next iteration of the nintendo switch but I think it's just a hope.

AppleTV is supposedly good but I hate walled garden police state personally, and idk how apple's AI upscaling is compared to nvidias since nvidia is a leader in AI. I doubt it can do anything comparable with that and would have to rely on the tv's upscaling, which for the purposes of this mini conversation would bring you back to square 1.

 

[ManofGod]

I personally found that since I am only 5ft 7 inches tall, the LG C2 42 inch was just to tall for me, after having used it for 11 months. Seat position did not help and with no curve on the TV, it felt like the top corners were distant. That is why I sold it but, if I had it as just a TV, it would probably have been great, if not a little to small for that use case.

 

[zehoo]

I can understand that but then again the sony is $200 more than the LG 42" vs 42" and the shield is $200 or less

At the time I bought mine, the C2 was $1700AUD and the A90K was $2900AUD. If I'd waited I could have spent ~$1200AUD on the C2 and $16-1900AUD for the A90K. So a ~$700USD price difference when I picked mine up. And I mostly use a 4k 27" monitor on the right of the OLED with an Apple TV to watch stuff (unless it's HDR). If my setup was more tidy I'd take a photo.

 

[elvn]

At the time I bought mine, the C2 was $1700AUD and the A90K was $2900AUD. If I'd waited I could have spent ~$1200AUD on the C2 and $16-1900AUD for the A90K. So a ~$700USD price difference when I picked mine up. And I mostly use a 4k 27" monitor on the right of the OLED with an Apple TV to watch stuff (unless it's HDR). If my setup was more tidy I'd take a photo.

ouch. Right now in the usa at bestbuy the 42" C3 is $1100 (+tax) , 43" sony a90k is $1300 (+tax), though it came out in fall of 2022 so has dropped in price. The LG's are a great deal even on their current models and especially for gaming focused setups (though imo viewing distance increasing beyond desk depth is an extremely important factor on screens larger than 32" -38") . shield pro is $200 but I've seen it for less on sale. (It was $150 end of november 2023).

I have a shield pro on two different screens in my house. I really love them for their speedy interface even when loading libraries, for streaming movies and shows in dolby vision HDR, really good AI upscaling imo (esp. when tweaked named picture settings on the display itself's OSD), and for watching 3rd party youtube and twitch apps with all the benefits and quality of life imrovements those give over the default apps, apps for my OTA HD tv stations (local news), a few other neat apps they can run, voice controls independent of the tv it's on, plus a 3rd party app for a custom front page without manufacturer service advertisements and clutter, etc. I don't really mess with the game streaming stuff since I have a gaming laptop. Would be great if a new gen of a shield came out or some comparable google/android device that doesn't have a walled garden like smartTV OS's and appleTV have. (think android vs apple stores/installs/available apps/policies).

 

[Happy Hopping]

I would. I use it everyday, 8 hours for work as my primary monitor. Granted, I do have a secondary monitor in portrait next to it that has all my icons/Outlook/Teams. I have almost 2K hours on it with this type of use and see no hint of any image retention.

my first 40" 4K is the Philips, it has orbital rotation, so I don't need to care about image retention. Does your new OLED has orbital rotation?

 

[elvn]

my first 40" 4K is the Philips, it has orbital rotation, so I don't need to care about image retention. Does your new OLED has orbital rotation?

LG OLEDs use a pixel wear evening routine where once the firmware realizes some of the oleds have burned down enough, it will burn them all down even and then boost them back up to the regular energy state. It reserves an amount of energy/brightness range for that wear evening. So you won't be seeing burn in along the way as long as there is some buffer remaining to level it out and raise it back up. You won't know how much of that "battery" you have left until you burn all the way through it, but it should extend the life of the display for a long time unless you are abusing the TV very carelessly.

The LG OLEDs have pixel shift which helps, also logo dimming. You also can't avoid ABL (unless you cap your brightness below it's threshold yourself in your source or the TV's OSD but either way it's a dim safety net) .
You can also set up different named picture modes for different kinds of media, or in order to keep a named picture mode in the OSD just for dimmer when using desktop/apps for example.

The better of the newer OLED gaming tvs have Micro Lens Arrays (MLA) , which concentrates the light output. That not only allows them to hit brighter output but it allows the same outputs at lower energy level/heat on the oleds compared to a non-MLA OLED.

Most of the newer OLEDs and FALD LCDs shown at ces have more advanced display management chips in them too, so they will be more energy efficient and better at managing different light outputs. Also should be a little better at upconverting content, etc.

Eventually, the blue fluorescent oleds which are weak/whose lifespan is short used in oleds should all start to be replaced with phosphorescent blue oled models. That will mean much more resilient OLED displays as that is a weak point.



Personally I also use LG's "turn off the screen" feature, which just turns off the oled emitters when I have a game paused, when I got afk, or when I'm focused on doing something on a different screen for a long time. You can activate that feature in the quick menu or via voice command. Hit any button or the directional ring on the remote and the tv wakes up instantly. While the emitters are off everything is still running, incl. sound and games, etc, and the screen doesn't drop out of windows. It's kind of like you minimized the screen until you got back to it. Once you train yourself to do that it should prolong the life of the tv a lot compared to leaving static/paused content on it when you aren't even really viewing it for a little while.

 

[DooLocsta]

my first 40" 4K is the Philips, it has orbital rotation, so I don't need to care about image retention. Does your new OLED has orbital rotation?

The LG has a pixel shift. Since I work on it daily I can notice when it happens but it is not distracting. The screen will shift to the left or right to help any image retention.

 

[Happy Hopping]

LG OLEDs use a pixel wear evening routine where once the firmware realizes some of the oleds have burned down enough, it will burn them all down even and then boost them back up to the regular energy state. It reserves an amount of energy/brightness range for that wear evening. So you won't be seeing burn in along the way as long as there is some buffer remaining to level it out and raise it back up. You won't know how much of that "battery" you have left until you burn all the way through it, but it should extend the life of the display for a long time unless you are abusing the TV very carelessly.

The LG OLEDs have pixel shift which helps, also logo dimming. You also can't avoid ABL (unless you cap your brightness below it's threshold yourself in your source or the TV's OSD but either way it's a dim safety net) .
You can also set up different named picture modes for different kinds of media, or in order to keep a named picture mode in the OSD just for dimmer when using desktop/apps for example.

The better of the newer OLED gaming tvs have Micro Lens Arrays (MLA) , which concentrates the light output. That not only allows them to hit brighter output but it allows the same outputs at lower energy level/heat on the oleds compared to a non-MLA OLED.

Most of the newer OLEDs and FALD LCDs shown at ces have more advanced display management chips in them too, so they will be more energy efficient and better at managing different light outputs. Also should be a little better at upconverting content, etc.

Eventually, the blue fluorescent oleds which are weak/whose lifespan is short used in oleds should all start to be replaced with phosphorescent blue oled models. That will mean much more resilient OLED displays as that is a weak point.



Personally I also use LG's "turn off the screen" feature, which just turns off the oled emitters when I have a game paused, when I got afk, or when I'm focused on doing something on a different screen for a long time. You can activate that feature in the quick menu or via voice command. Hit any button or the directional ring on the remote and the tv wakes up instantly. While the emitters are off everything is still running, incl. sound and games, etc, and the screen doesn't drop out of windows. It's kind of like you minimized the screen until you got back to it. Once you train yourself to do that it should prolong the life of the tv a lot compared to leaving static/paused content on it when you aren't even really viewing it for a little while.

what exactly is

you are abusing the TV very carelessly.

can you give an e,g,? Also, what technology is better, the orbital trick by LG philips, or the one you mention above, also by LG?

 

[DooLocsta]

I also grabbed a service remote for $7 off eBay and disabled GRE and ABL. No regrets.

 

[elvn]

what exactly is


can you give an e,g,? Also, what technology is better, the orbital trick by LG philips, or the one you mention above, also by LG?

Leaving static content on the screen when you aren't even looking at the TV.

You can turn off the LG oled emitters when you aren't looking at the screen, pausing a game or video, going afk, etc. One touch of the remote wakes the emitters up instantly. As far as the pc OS and apps are concerned the tv is on as normal and is part of the pc monitor array (doesn't drop out) the whole time. Either set up "turn off the screen" in the quick menu, use the network app and keyboard or streamdeck hotkey remote function, or enable the mic on the remote - hold the mic button down and say "turn off the screen". It won't put it into standy, it will just turn off the emitters, kind of like minimizing the screen until you are actually looking at it again and using it.

Keeping a very high brightness setting while using the screen for PC desktop/apps instead of setting up a named setting in the TV's OSD that is dimmer for desktop/app use, separate from the gaming or media named osd picture settings.
Not using: dark themes in windows and apps, browser addon dark/background modes or mods, ultra black plain wallpaper, hide the taksbar, store all desktop icons offscreen in a "desktop icon" folder, etc.
Keeping bright window frames on the screen in the same place for hours a day.
Watching a lot of tv or youtube streams with huge bright static banners or static logos.
Keeping the TV on top of home heat vents, with the back of the tv to sunny window, etc where the screen will heat. Heat is not good for oleds (or any screen really, I had a fald one burn in after a few years from a big picture window's hot sunlight blasting the black back of the tv).

A lot of people are using OLEDs for desktop/app use but most are using those kinds of precautions and so are still getting good mileage out of their screens from reports. Personally I generally don't use mine for static desktop/app windows at all since I have a VA LCD screen on each side of it for that.

. . . . .

when people say "burn in" on modern LG OLED tech it means that they have probably exhausted their wear evening buffer. (I read somewhere that they reserve something like 25% energize level on them, not certain the actual amount).

As I understand it - you are always "Burning down" oled screens, like millions of tiny very slow burning candles . When the "candles" are sensed as being uneven enough the firmware will burn them all down to level them out again, and then use a reserved energizing buffer to boost them back up . . repeatedly through the lifetime of the display. It's when you exhaust that buffer, usually years down the road under normal media and gaming usage scenarios, that you will be left buffer-less where the TV has no reserved energizing range left to even the emitters off and boost them back up to normal output levels again.

Think of it like a desert island scenario.
It's as if you had a single charge "lifetime" battery in a high performing phone or tablet that was rated for years of use, but that was incompatible with charge sensing (or that sensing broke for whatever reason) so you'd never know how much charge is left.
After you turned on your fully charged device and start using it you'd have no idea what your battery charge level is. You could use more power hungry apps and disable your power saving features, run very high screen brightness when you don't need to/aren't viewing content that benefits more from it, max the OS screen brightness because you choose to view the screen in bright daylight instead of in the shade, use high brightness/contrast backgrounds, no screen dimming kicking in, leave the screen on with a very long screen timeout or "always on" via OS or phone app even when you aren't looking at it etc. - and you'd still get full charge performance for quite some time - - > but eventually you'd burn through the nearly the entire battery to where the device was compromised, and you'd end up there a lot faster than someone who used the phone or tablet without those more abusive and faster draining practices.

When viewing less abusive media and gaming (static MTG at high brightness might be bad though lol) , the burn-in + burn-down mitigation tech, combined with safe-use practices outlined in many of these threads, plus forced ABL, (and enabling logo dimming and pixel shift) - should result in a much longer lifetime of the screen and buffer. Using an OLED for desktop/apps with a lower contrast+brightness named OSD picture profile or windows color profile would probably help some if you had to use one for desktop apps (switching to different named picture profile for media or games), and you could use something like displayfusion to do saved window position profiles that you could switch between to help move borders and such - but I'd just use a different screen for a workstation/desktop-app display personally and keep the OLED for media and games.

 

[Happy Hopping]

I didn't know about the "heat" problem, as during the day, the sun shines into my PC room and it's slightly hot, but quite hot in the summer.

Regardless, things like "hide the taskbar", is not the kind of action I want to do. A better question is, for people who use windows PC in a regular manner under OLED screen, and DOES NOT observe the above tricks, such as hiding the taskbar, how long do you think it will last? are we talk about less than 3 yr. or more? And I wonder if brand like Asus covers burn in w/i the 3 yr. warranty period

the other thing is, w/ OLED functions as TV among the general public, there is no way they know any of the above tricks, then how long would it be until the screen is wash out? and I wonder if these people buy extended warranty w/ places like bestbuy would cover burn in

 

[Och]

On the LG C2 vs Sony A90K, do they have matte or glossy screens? Are they acceptable as general use PC monitors, not just gaming? Working in Autocad and Solidworks?

 

[jarablue]

LG C2 48in user here. It is a glossy screen. I use it for everything. Work, gaming, Win11 stuff, resumes. EVERYTHING. Never had a problem with it at night or in the day. Then again, glare doesn't bother my eyes at all. I am 6'2 and sit about 44 inches from the display at my desk.

Other than my kitten sneezing huge boogies on the panel and me having to clean it everyday, nothing beats it. Best TV as monitor I have ever owned. I mean it is great to me. I'll never buy another monitor again. OLED is great and TVs are making a good argument over buying monitors now for displays on dekstops.

 

[Och]

After reading up various threads all over the internet, I think I've decided on the PG42UQ. Matte screen over the LG/Sony TVs is my biggest deciding factor.

 

[Happy Hopping]

LG C2 48in user here. It is a glossy screen. I use it for everything. Work, gaming, Win11 stuff, resumes. EVERYTHING. Never had a problem with it at night or in the day. Then again, glare doesn't bother my eyes at all. I am 6'2 and sit about 44 inches from the display at my desk.

Other than my kitten sneezing huge boogies on the panel and me having to clean it everyday, nothing beats it. Best TV as monitor I have ever owned. I mean it is great to me. I'll never buy another monitor again. OLED is great and TVs are making a good argument over buying monitors now for displays on dekstops.

how long have you been using it and did you hide the task bar and use dark mode in windows 10?

 

[StoleMyOwnCar]

I didn't know about the "heat" problem, as during the day, the sun shines into my PC room and it's slightly hot, but quite hot in the summer.

Regardless, things like "hide the taskbar", is not the kind of action I want to do. A better question is, for people who use windows PC in a regular manner under OLED screen, and DOES NOT observe the above tricks, such as hiding the taskbar, how long do you think it will last? are we talk about less than 3 yr. or more? And I wonder if brand like Asus covers burn in w/i the 3 yr. warranty period

the other thing is, w/ OLED functions as TV among the general public, there is no way they know any of the above tricks, then how long would it be until the screen is wash out? and I wonder if these people buy extended warranty w/ places like bestbuy would cover burn in

You're asking the good questions, I think.

I agree:

Leaving static content on the screen when you aren't even looking at the TV.

You can turn off the LG oled emitters when you aren't looking at the screen, pausing a game or video, going afk, etc. One touch of the remote wakes the emitters up instantly. As far as the pc OS and apps are concerned the tv is on as normal and is part of the pc monitor array (doesn't drop out) the whole time. Either set up "turn off the screen" in the quick menu, use the network app and keyboard or streamdeck hotkey remote function, or enable the mic on the remote - hold the mic button down and say "turn off the screen". It won't put it into standy, it will just turn off the emitters, kind of like minimizing the screen until you are actually looking at it again and using it.

Keeping a very high brightness setting while using the screen for PC desktop/apps instead of setting up a named setting in the TV's OSD that is dimmer for desktop/app use, separate from the gaming or media named osd picture settings.
Not using: dark themes in windows and apps, browser addon dark/background modes or mods, ultra black plain wallpaper, hide the taksbar, store all desktop icons offscreen in a "desktop icon" folder, etc.
Keeping bright window frames on the screen in the same place for hours a day.
Watching a lot of tv or youtube streams with huge bright static banners or static logos.
Keeping the TV on top of home heat vents, with the back of the tv to sunny window, etc where the screen will heat. Heat is not good for oleds (or any screen really, I had a fald one burn in after a few years from a big picture window's hot sunlight blasting the black back of the tv).

A lot of people are using OLEDs for desktop/app use but most are using those kinds of precautions and so are still getting good mileage out of their screens from reports. Personally I generally don't use mine for static desktop/app windows at all since I have a VA LCD screen on each side of it for that.

. . . . .

This is also a huge list of crap that I REALLY don't want to have to worry about with a PC monitor. As I said, I've had a plasma before (which did get burn in anyway despite my efforts), and having to baby a display is some really annoying shit. I'm definitely not in a mood for sitting there and having to switch modes for desktop and gaming.

But with that said, I think this LG C3 does a pretty good job of incorporating a LOT of things to try to keep the display from burning in, even while you're just casually using it without much thought.
- There are frequent pixel shifts (which are a little annoying, because they cut off UI elements)
- If the content is ever static enough for too long, it dims down quite a bit (although I've had this be faulty once; it wouldn't brighten back up... but that was an isolated incident and turning it off and on fixed it)
- There's some logo dimming thing which I have turned on but I have no idea wtf it does.
- The display also outright turns off if the image has been static too long, and puts on a screensaver that's just mostly pure black
- As elvn mentions, pretty sure there's some advanced cleanup processes that go on every time you turn the thing off to try to keep everything from wearing out.

Will it actually last 3 years without any burn in, even with all of that stuff, especially at max brightness most of the time, like I have it right now? Honestly, I'm skeptical. But, I also had the 45" curved ultrawide 3440x1440 QDOLED display from LG, and in my experience even that thing (which was designed to be a monitor, ironically) doesn't do as much shit as this TV does to try to keep itself from getting burn in. So, at the very least maybe when it does get burn in, it'll be easily ignored. I've been using this TV non-stop ever since I got it around the first post I made in this topic and I haven't had any issues with burn in yet (though it hasn't been long). I plan to (probably) exchange it in about 1.5 months or so because it has a dead (sub)pixel anyway, so maybe I'll take a closer look before I do that. But 3 months isn't in the same realm of 3 years. It's just that at $900 from Costco, the price tag was just low enough for me to swallow even if it did eventually turn out to be a dud. Everyone's talking about how these new displays are going to be better and stuff, but they're also probably going to be like $2-3k. I'm not putting down that kind of money for anything but a world bending improvement. The 4090 already cost enough. $900, though? Sure.

Edit: Actually, I wonder if I need a new firmware update, because this thing where it doesn't seem to come up from being dim is happening more and more often...

 

[jarablue]

how long have you been using it and did you hide the task bar and use dark mode in windows 10?

I have been using it for 9 months and yes dark mode and autohide the task bar. I change my wallpaper daily or just keep it on black. Wallpaper engine from steam is a good tool to keep the desktop from being static. I like the matrix wallpaper from wallpaper engine.

It really is a good display. Best I have ever used in my life. I have been using pcs since 1990.

 

[Happy Hopping]

okay, LCD screen people, this is the way things should work:

we as human builds computer screen, to convenient us. If we have to impose all those restrictions from the above in order to use a screen, then the screen is dictating terms against human. It should be the other way around.

Back in Xmas, I was about to buy that Asus ZenScreen 13.3" for connection to my Oppo player. I was willing to spend that amt. of $. But the problems come it turns itself off when I'm using it. The wattage of my current 55W 20" screen is $1 / mth., for my usage hr. So for that little 5W OLED screen, its electricity is only $0.1 /mth. Now, I'm going w/ a regular 13.3" screen HD. And the truth is, there is very little to gain for a brighter screen connects to an Oppo player.

Now, w/ these LG OLED screen, here's a $1M question: if John Doe is watching a movie via Roku and hit pause, would he get burn in , if he does that from time to time every night when he watch movies? because I seriously doubt the average person knows any of the above tricks a few mesg. up.

 

[elvn]

The reserved brightness range ~ energy boost battery of the wear evening routine system is analogous to a phone battery where you don't know how much charge remains.
. .

phone usage practice on a desert island analogy

. You could use more power hungry apps and disable your power saving features, run very high screen brightness when you don't need to/aren't viewing content that benefits more from it, max the OS screen brightness because you choose to view the screen in bright daylight instead of in the shade, use high brightness/contrast backgrounds, no screen dimming kicking in, leave the screen on with a very long screen timeout or "always on" via OS or phone app even when you aren't looking at it etc. - and you'd still get full charge performance for quite some time - - > but eventually you'd burn through the nearly the entire battery to where the device was compromised, and you'd end up there a lot faster than someone who used the phone or tablet without those more abusive and faster draining practices.

. .

if John Doe is watching a movie via Roku and hit pause, would he get burn in , if he does that from time to time every night when he watch movies?

Some services are better about such things youtube for example dims the content display to quite dark after its been paused for a minute.. It doesnt do anything like that for music streams with static background art though.

So considering the above about wear evening probably not but it would shorten the lifespan in the long run compared
to not doing that. For me, using the turn off the emitters feature is best because I can get sidetracked and do something else leaving the display paused on a static screen a lot longer than I had intended, or I could forget and go to sleep.l, leave the house or something. It's also nice for things with static wall art when I'm just listening and not really watching the creen at all.

 

[kasakka]

Now, w/ these LG OLED screen, here's a $1M question: if John Doe is watching a movie via Roku and hit pause, would he get burn in , if he does that from time to time every night when he watch movies? because I seriously doubt the average person knows any of the above tricks a few mesg. up.

This will depend on the source. The built in smartTV apps on my LG CX 48" will all trigger the screensaver after some time if you pause a movie. This might not happen with e.g a computer, console or 3rd party streaming device connected.

But there's still tech like automatic static brightness limiter that will start dimming the display when it detects static content. Hugely annoying for computer use, but will avoid issues.

When I got my C9 TV (my first OLED TV), I would baby it in the beginning. Then as time went on, I just started using it like any other TV.
I do the same with the CX. When I used it with a computer I just turned it off from the remote if I went to lunch for example.

For the average user I'd say there's no need to think about it much as the built in protections work well enough. My CX 48" is still going strong after over 3 years of ownership, zero issues. My parents have my old Panasonic ST-50 plasma TV and that is over 10 years old, still without a single issue (and still looks great for SDR content).

 

[Armenius]

Now, w/ these LG OLED screen, here's a $1M question: if John Doe is watching a movie via Roku and hit pause, would he get burn in , if he does that from time to time every night when he watch movies? because I seriously doubt the average person knows any of the above tricks a few mesg. up.

By default LG OLED televisions will trigger the firework screensaver if the pixels don't change after 5 minutes no matter the video source, so John Doe won't have that issue unless he's dumb enough to turn the screensaver off. The average person is most likely not going to go that deep into the settings when they setup their TV.

 

[tongshadow]

Now, w/ these LG OLED screen, here's a $1M question: if John Doe is watching a movie via Roku and hit pause, would he get burn in

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t73n6MVhUS4
Next $1M question please.

 

[Lateralus]

Next $1M question please.

I mean, there are pages and pages of them in this thread alone:

https://hardforum.com/search/7982965/?t=post&c[thread]=2016682&c[users]=Happy+Hopping&o=relevance

Pick one, lol. I'm starting to think that HH is either a bot, or the world's most indecisive consumer.

 

[elvn]

I mean, there are pages and pages of them in this thread alone:

https://hardforum.com/search/7982965/?t=post&c[thread]=2016682&c[users]=Happy+Hopping&o=relevance

Pick one, lol. I'm starting to think that HH is either a bot, or the world's most indecisive consumer.

I've consider that. Bot or bread crumb trail low level trolling, or sewing seeds of discontent for whatever reason. But who knows he could just be hung up on it stuck in a loop, 20 goto 10.

. . . . . . . . . .


I always come back to saying a few things when people post a ton of questions about it though:

#1 -if you are that worried about it buy it from best buy and spring for the 5 year warranty. It's not that much as an insurance policy in $ per year considering how worried you see to be. Then you can sleep easy from your fear, at least for 5 years.
-
#2 - if you are doing a lot of static desktop/apps rather than heavy on the media and gaming side (+ have such worried concern about an OLED screen), consider a side LCD screen for the static stuff, maybe the screen you were using previously for example, or just getting a really good FALD pc monitor instead of an OLED in the first place.
#3 - if you don't want to use any common sense oled usage practices at all, refer to #1 and #2.
#4 - get an oled gaming tv on sale so it's not a $1200 - $2000 gaming monitor you are fretting about, and so the BB warranty will be a little less since its cost is a fraction based on the sale price.

#5 - if you aren't willing to decouple the screen of a 42" or larger oled gaming tv from the desk on its own mount a little farther away, don't be surprised if the pixels sizes look more like those of a 1400p - 1500p desktop monitor and you end up having to make some compromises on the non-RGB format text (e.g. heavily massaging text-ss, seeking out and using alternative text-ss methods, scaling the desktop 125% or more which loses desktop/app real-estate). Also don't be surprised if it's a stretch visual-ergonomics wise when mounted up close directly on top of a desk, or if you find the uniformity to the ends of the screen isn't quite as good + it having some distortion.

#6 - LG OLEDs use a wear evening routine with a reserved brightness/energizing buffer. It should level out the oled emitters to where you burned them down to, then boost them all back up to normal again throughout your years of normal use. You won't know how much of that reserve buffer you have left though. More abusive usage practices will burn through the buffer sooner so it will run out earlier - but generally up until that point you aren't burning an OLED in, you are burning it down and the TV then compensates for it.

 

[StoleMyOwnCar]

#4 - get an oled gaming tv on sale so it's not a $1200 - $2000 gaming monitor you are fretting about, and so the BB warranty will be a little less since its cost is a fraction based on the sale price.

Again, gonna note that Costco had it at $899, and bundled with an extra 3 years. Not sure how good the extra warranty is compared to BB (probably worse), but the price being 900 rather than 2k definitely helped me decide on this at least. I think if it lasts at least 2 years, I'll be fine, so I'm not going to do anything special to try to preserve it.

How important is it to update the firmware on it, if I just got it recently, anyway? I figure it should have a fairly new one.

 

[sharknice]

Again, gonna note that Costco had it at $899, and bundled with an extra 3 years. Not sure how good the extra warranty is compared to BB (probably worse), but the price being 900 rather than 2k definitely helped me decide on this at least. I think if it lasts at least 2 years, I'll be fine, so I'm not going to do anything special to try to preserve it.

How important is it to update the firmware on it, if I just got it recently, anyway? I figure it should have a fairly new one.

Probably not significant unless you're using the apps on the TV. In past models they've fixed some real PQ issues with older models though.

 

[elvn]

Again, gonna note that Costco had it at $899, and bundled with an extra 3 years. Not sure how good the extra warranty is compared to BB (probably worse), but the price being 900 rather than 2k definitely helped me decide on this at least. I think if it lasts at least 2 years, I'll be fine, so I'm not going to do anything special to try to preserve it.

How important is it to update the firmware on it, if I just got it recently, anyway? I figure it should have a fairly new one.

This is from 3 yrs ago but might still be relevant :

https://www.reddit.com/r/Costco/comments/ldrq58/does_costcos_extended_tv_warranty_covers_burn_in/

dazchad
· 3 yr. ago
If the insurance is Allstate/square trade forget it. I bought a C7 from Amazon and got the square trade protection. As most TVs from that generation, my TV got a bad burnin caused by motherboard overheating (I didn’t know about this before contacting Allstate). I knew burn in was not covered so I didn’t bother calling Allstate. However out of nowhere I had a vertical line of dead pixels on my screen. A whole column of white pixels! I called them, and long story short they won’t fix my problem because I have burn in on my screen, which was caused by a defective TV. Both issues (dead pixel and overheating) are explicitly covered on their contract. But because the screen has burnin they denied my claim. Curiously they insisted on me calling LG to see if I can get the burn in sorted out, which leads me to believe they know LG will fix the tv because of the overheating issues (and that turned out to be the case)
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make sure you are aware that Allstate don’t honor their contract.

Costco SquareTrade protection plan for screens:
https://www.costco.com/wcsstore/Cos...ore/Attachment/Costco+SquareTrade-TC-2016.pdf

What is not covered
J. Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or burned CRT phosphor;

(2014-1-1) STC-COSTCO9. WHAT IS NOT COVERED:
A. Any and all pre-existing conditions that occur prior to the Coverage Start Date of this Protection Plan;
B. Intentional damage;
C. Lost, stolen, or irretrievable items;
D. Any product that is fraudulently described or materially misrepresented;
E. Maintenance, repair, or replacement necessitated by loss or damage resulting from any cause other than
normal use and operation of the product in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications and owner’s
manual, including, but not limited to, exposure to weather conditions, failure to properly clean, maintain
or lubricate, operator negligence, misuse, abuse, improper electrical/power supply, improper equipment
modifications, attachments or installation or assembly, vandalism, animal or insect infestation, battery
leakage, act of nature (any accident caused or produced by any physical cause which cannot be foreseen or
prevented, such as storms, perils of the sea, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods and earthquakes), or any other
peril originating from outside the product;
F. Defects due to the initial installation, assembly or hookup of Your Product;
G. Cases wherein the manufacturer acknowledges the existence of a valid manufacturer’s warranty and denies
a claim against the manufacturer’s warranty;
H. Claims made under any improperly or incorrectly purchased Protection Plan;
I. Cosmetic damage to case or cabinetry or other non-operating parts or components which does not affect the
functionality or the covered product;
J. Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or burned CRT phosphor;
K. Accidental damage, cracked or damaged monitor, laptop or display screens, liquid damage, lost buttons or
knobs etc., unless optional accidental damage from handling (ADH) coverage was offered and purchased at
the time of sale with Your Protection Plan;
L. Projector or rear projection TV bulbs unless Bulb Coverage has been offered and purchased at the time of
sale with Your Protection Plan;
M. Consumer replaceable or consumable batteries unless Battery Coverage has been offered and purchased at the
time of sale with Your Protection Plan;
N. Consumer replaceable or consumable items such as but not limited to toner, ribbons, ink cartridges, drums,
belts, printer heads, belts, blades, strings, trim etc.;
O. All equipment intended for heavy commercial or industrial use such as industrial printers or IT equipment; riding
mowers or backhoe type products;
P. Product(s) with removed or altered serial numbers;
Q. Manufacturer defects or equipment failure which is covered by manufacturer’s warranty, manufacturer’s recall,
or factory bulletins (regardless of whether or not the manufacturer is doing business as an ongoing enterprise);
R. Damage to computer hardware, software and data caused by, including, but not limited to, viruses,
application programs, network drivers, source code, object code or proprietary data, or any support,
configuration, installation or reinstallation of any software or data;
S. Failures related to shipping damage, cleaning, preventive maintenance, “No Problem Found” diagnosis,
intermittent and non-intermittent issues that are not product failures (such as poor cell phone reception);
T. Jewelry or watches that are used or refurbished at the time of purchase;
U. Rattan, wicker, plastic, or non-colorfast fabric furniture; or inherent furniture design defects including, but
not limited to, natural inconsistencies in wood grains, fabrics, coloring or leathers; fading due to sunlight; or
dust corrosion;
V. Stains, water marks or rings on furniture caused by consumable beverages, smoke or other materials
deemed by Us to be caustic;
W. Items sold in a private sale (e.g. flea market, yard sale, estate sale, craigslist)

That one was from 2014 - 2016... here is the current one right off of their plan page:
https://mobilecontent.costco.com/live/resource/img/static-us-pdf/Allstate_Terms_&_Conditions.pdf

What is not covered:
(Q) Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or
burned CRT phosphor;

9. WHAT IS NOT COVERED:
A. ALL PROTECTION PLANS:
(A) Except as otherwise provided, normal wear and tear;
(B) Any and all pre-existing conditions that occur prior to the Coverage Start Date of this
Protection Plan;
(C) Natural flaws or inherent design or manufacturer’s defects;
(D) Intentional damage;
(E) Lost, stolen or irretrievable items;
(F) Any Product that is fraudulently described or materially misrepresented;
(G) Secondary or collateral damage;
(H) Except as otherwise provided, maintenance, service, repair or replacement neces-
sitated by loss or damage resulting from any cause other than normal use, storage,
and operation of the Product in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications and
owner’s manual;
(I) Damage caused by exposure to weather conditions, improper electrical/power supply,
improper equipment modifications, add-on products or accessories, attachments or
installation or assembly, collision with any other object, vandalism, animal or insect
infestation, corrosion, battery leakage, act of nature (any accident caused or produced
by any physical cause which cannot be foreseen or prevented, such as storms, perils of
the sea, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods and earthquakes) or any other force majeure or
peril originating from outside the Product;
(J) Damage caused by “accumulation,” including, without limitation, damage from any re-
peated use or gradual buildup of dirt, dust, oils or similar, such as hair and body oils,
perspiration or darkened bodily contact areas;
(K) Damage caused by: any improper care, negligence, neglect, intentional acts, misuse or
abuse of the Product; any repair, replacement or handling of the Product other than as
recommended or authorized by the manufacturer and/or Us; or any failure to comply
with the manufacturer’s warranty;
(L) Damage caused by cleaning methods, products or materials;
(M) Defects due to the installation, assembly or hookup of Your Product;
(N) Damage caused by transit, delivery, redelivery, removal, or reinstallation of the Product,
or the Product being moved between different locations or into or out of storage, includ-
ing damage caused by packing or unpacking of the Product;
(O) Claims made under any improperly or incorrectly purchased Protection Plan;
(P) Except as otherwise provided, “cosmetic damage,” defined as any damages or changes
to the physical appearance of a Product that does not impede or hinder its normal
operating function as determined by Us, such as scratches, abrasions, peelings, dents,
kinks, changes in color, texture or finish, or similar conditions;
(Q) Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or
burned CRT phosphor;
(R) Accidental damage or liquid damage unless ADH coverage was offered and purchased
as part of Your Protection Plan;
(S) Projector or rear projection TV bulbs;
(T) Consumer replaceable or consumable batteries unless battery coverage has been of-
fered and purchased as part of Your Protection Plan;
(U) Consumer replaceable or consumable items including but not limited to toner, ribbons,
ink cartridges, drums, belts, printer heads, blades, strings and trim;
(V) Except as otherwise provided, any product used for heavy commercial, educational,
rental or industrial use;
(W) Product(s) with removed or altered serial numbers;
(X) Manufacturer defects or equipment failure which is covered by manufacturer’s war-
ranty, manufacturer’s recall or factory bulletins (regardless of whether or not the manu-
facturer is doing business as an ongoing enterprise);
Damage to computer hardware, software and data or loss of software or data, caused
by, including, but not limited to, viruses, application programs, network drivers, source
code, object code or proprietary data, or any support, configuration, installation or re-
installation of any software or data;
(Z) “No Problem Found” diagnosis, intermittent and non-intermittent issues that are not
failures of the Product (such as poor cell phone reception);
(aa) Items sold in a private sale (e.g. flea market, yard sale, estate sale, Craigslist);
(bb) Any Product that is a demonstration/in-store model, or that is sold “as-is”;
(cc) A Product that is no longer in Your possession;
(dd) Any failure, damage, repairs or loss that is covered under any other protection plan,
warranty, service plan or insurance

. . .

BestBuy.42inch.C3_Q&A: “Does the Geek Squad Extended Warranty cover OLED screen burn in?” 3 months ago

They will cover damage:"From bad pixels or a shadow image."This describes burn in pretty accurately, and they also cover:"Failure from normal wear and tear."Meaning if the burn in was caused from normal use of the TV, they will cover it. From their wording, even if the failure was from you not keeping it clean.That being said, the only way that you are getting burn in within the 2 year window Best Buy covers is if you buy a service remote and disable all the OLED screen protection settings. Just don't do that, damage caused by intentionally disabling protections voids the manufacturer warranty, so it probably wouldn't be covered by Best Buy either.

Bestbuy geeksquad protection page Q&A: Does this cover OLED Burn-in? 9 months ago

Yes it does. I returned a monitor that had an image burned it and was covered. The warranty covers hardware issues and not physical damage done by the consumer
Answered by BushidoBrown 9 months ago

.
1 yr ago:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/z91mhk/how_does_geek_squad_handle_burnin/

N0SYMPATHY
· 1 yr. ago
They will try and repair it first, if feasible, and then if not you’d get the comparable tv as a replacement.
Where some people get mad is how that process works. If you paid say $2500 for the tv and the replacement C2 is $2000 then you don’t get the different or anything. You’d be offered the C2 and then you’d have to rebuy the 5 year warranty as the previous one would be considered used in full.

Adventurous-Share759
· 1 yr. ago
I work for GS, can confirm what you say is accurate.

----------------------------------------------

I don't blame you for going with the $899 costco deal but for people who are terrified of getting burn-in or who are using it as an oled hating crutch or whatever - best buy with warranty might be a good option - especially if you catch the screen on a really good sale at some point during the product cycle.

 

[StoleMyOwnCar]

This is from 3 yrs ago but might still be relevant :

https://www.reddit.com/r/Costco/comments/ldrq58/does_costcos_extended_tv_warranty_covers_burn_in/



Costco SquareTrade protection plan for screens:
https://www.costco.com/wcsstore/Cos...ore/Attachment/Costco+SquareTrade-TC-2016.pdf

What is not covered
J. Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or burned CRT phosphor;


That one was from 2014 - 2016... here is the current one right off of their plan page:
https://mobilecontent.costco.com/live/resource/img/static-us-pdf/Allstate_Terms_&_Conditions.pdf

What is not covered:
(Q) Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or
burned CRT phosphor;


. . .

BestBuy.42inch.C3_Q&A: “Does the Geek Squad Extended Warranty cover OLED screen burn in?” 3 months ago


Bestbuy geeksquad protection page Q&A: Does this cover OLED Burn-in? 9 months ago

.
1 yr ago:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/z91mhk/how_does_geek_squad_handle_burnin/


----------------------------------------------

I don't blame you for going with the $899 costco deal but for people who are terrified of getting burn-in or who are using it as an oled hating crutch or whatever - best buy with warranty might be a good option - especially if you catch the screen on a really good sale at some point during the product cycle.

It kind of depends on how much the price and warranty is by comparison. The thing about Costco is that I also get 90 days to do a return/exchange for any reason, burn in and dead pixel included. Best Buy is a lot less. I guess they do have an extra plan that you can buy, again, by becoming an "elite member" or something. But from my experience when you get into this price range, the extended warranties tend to be a substantial price as well. It's good that they cover that at Best Buy, but I think it's kind of ridiculous that we're even being forced, on many products, to invest in extended warranties. The manufacturer warranties are just getting too weak. If it's like $200-300, one has to keep in mind that this is getting close to (or exceeding) 1/4th the price of the entire unit to begin with. You're putting down a large chunk of money now to guarantee the unit will be working later. But it might not have issues later to begin with, and ideally you wouldn't be investing this extra money if the problem was not supposed to happen to begin with (ie the unit is reliable enough anyway). I think I would rather have the $200-300 that I saved now, later, to get a superior unit anyway. The nice thing about the Costco deal is that the extended warranty is basically just bundled in anyway, and (afaik anyway) the price is competitive even for just the unit.

Now, I don't doubt that burn in isn't covered by this bundled warranty, but the vertical line thing it seems like that guy just got a bad rep or something. I did a little googling and: https://www.reddit.com/r/LGOLED/comments/101p0bd/comment/j2p1nwr/
Doesn't look like it's always a failure, at least on a major issue like that. But many manufacturers also don't cover burn in or dead pixels (at least under some absolutely asinine amount of them) within their (anemic in span) manufacturer warranties, so I'm not surprised that it's literally within their terms to not cover that. The story you linked sounds like they should have gone to a small claims court, though, or at least tried again.

 

[arestavo]

After ~4 years (and well over 20K hours of power on time) of using my 65" LG CX as a 4K gaming monitor... It still has no burn in.

But I decided that it was time for an upgrade! I got a 77" Samsung S90C wall mounted now. It's quite the beefcake, and VERY bright compared to my CX. I'd not expected it to be that big of a size jump, and it was a 3 man job getting it on the wall (I was able to put up the 65" by myself). I decided on the S90C over a C3 due to the quite good out of the box calibration, and the 144Hz + other gaming options (it has a crosshair that I can turn on for games that don't have one, ha!). Windows HDR also looks worlds better even without messing with any calibration settings compared to the CX (I kept HDR off with the CX because it just didn't look right in most HDR games or at the desktop). That may be because I switched to BT.2020 on the S90C? Or just much better out of the box screen calibration.

I'm quite pleased with this QD-OLED TV as it is in a room that can get a good bit of indirect sunlight at certain times of the day.

 

[StoleMyOwnCar]

After ~4 years (and well over 20K hours of power on time) of using my 65" LG CX as a 4K gaming monitor... It still has no burn in.

But I decided that it was time for an upgrade! I got a 77" Samsung S90C wall mounted now. It's quite the beefcake, and VERY bright compared to my CX. I'd not expected it to be that big of a size jump, and it was a 3 man job getting it on the wall (I was able to put up the 65" by myself). I decided on the S90C over a C3 due to the quite good out of the box calibration, and the 144Hz + other gaming options (it has a crosshair that I can turn on for games that don't have one, ha!). Windows HDR also looks worlds better even without messing with any calibration settings compared to the CX (I kept HDR off with the CX because it just didn't look right in most HDR games or at the desktop). That may be because I switched to BT.2020 on the S90C? Or just much better out of the box screen calibration.

I'm quite pleased with this QD-OLED TV as it is in a room that can get a good bit of indirect sunlight at certain times of the day.

What do you actually use to test for burn in, anyway? Grey background?

 

[arestavo]

What do you actually use to test for burn in, anyway? Grey background?

Solid color (red, green, blue, etc.) full window at low brightness.

 

[kasakka]

After ~4 years (and well over 20K hours of power on time) of using my 65" LG CX as a 4K gaming monitor... It still has no burn in.

I think it has only been on the market for around 3.5 years though. I've had my 48" model since release and also no burn in. I think I have over 6000 hours on it.

But I decided that it was time for an upgrade! I got a 77" Samsung S90C wall mounted now. It's quite the beefcake, and VERY bright compared to my CX. I'd not expected it to be that big of a size jump, and it was a 3 man job getting it on the wall (I was able to put up the 65" by myself). I decided on the S90C over a C3 due to the quite good out of the box calibration, and the 144Hz + other gaming options (it has a crosshair that I can turn on for games that don't have one, ha!). Windows HDR also looks worlds better even without messing with any calibration settings compared to the CX (I kept HDR off with the CX because it just didn't look right in most HDR games or at the desktop). That may be because I switched to BT.2020 on the S90C? Or just much better out of the box screen calibration.

I'm quite pleased with this QD-OLED TV as it is in a room that can get a good bit of indirect sunlight at certain times of the day.

If you use it, how do you feel about the Samsung smart TV stuff vs LG WebOS? WebOS has been pretty solid for me but I loathed the Samsung software on the KS7005 I had back in the day so much that I bought a Chromecast Ultra to use with it.

 

[kalston]

I'm closing in on 16k hours on the CX (4 years old soon) and no noticeable burn-in, though perhaps when staring up close at solid colours, white and grey might look more dirty than they used to, hard to say, it's not like I have the original to compare with.

However I seem to be getting more and more dead pixels (few months ago I reported a single one here) near the top and bottom edge (they are black and right on the edge, so not actually noticeable unless looking for it). Probably like ~10 dead pixels total now, spread out alongside the top border, and 1 at the very bottom which I could make out with a bright taskbar. From reading around it's apparently fairly common (but so is temporary image retention and yet that never ever happened on my unit), no idea what's going on there.

Certainly still looks stellar and I have zero regrets when looking at the alternatives. Like even with what it cost me back then, I'm still 100% buying another OLED when I feel the time has come. It's not like my experience with LCD was flawless either. Most developed issues with much fewer hours than that.