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4 1/2'' Hole saws

D

DarkenReaper57

2[H]4U
Joined
Oct 2, 2003
Messages
2,173
Why are 4 1/2'' hole saws so difficult to find at a reasonable price? I see kits on ebay including smaller saws, 4'', and 5'', but not 4 1/2'', all for less than $20 shipped. 4 1/2'' hole saws on their own, however, (without a mandrel) usually cost $20 - $30 shipped!

Anyway, I've been hunting around for a decent deal, but I haven't had much luck. Does anyone know of a place to get these things for cheap? I want to cut some nice 120mm holes, and I don't trust my dremel skills :p
 
why exactly would you want a cheap holesaw? spend the money right the first time this way you dont have to buy a 2nd or 3rd.
i picked mine up from lowes for around $30, hasnt let me down.
 
Yup, I got all of my hole saws at Lowes for pretty cheap. The most expensive one I got from there however was my 4 1/2" holesaw, but that's only because it came with the coolest mandrel I've ever seen.

It's got two metal dowels that stick out and go intot he holes on the hole saw, then you turn this chuck on it and it locks it into place. So much easier to use than the ones with the two nuts.
 
Moose777 said:
..... but that's only because it came with the coolest mandrel I've ever seen.......
Click to expand...
OMG you need to get out more, ;)

But yeah, whats wrong with your local DIY shop? Not everything is cheaper online, and it certainly isnt better. PLus you can guarantee youre getting a decent bit of kit, i like to play with tools before i buy them (yes i clean them after :))
 
Well, I do have a sabre saw that I can use. It has worked great for making straight cuts on 22 AWG steel, but I have not tried curves yet. Maybe I'll give it a whirl on some scrap before I drop money on a hole saw.

On the other hand, a hole saw is really nice to have...

Oh, are there usually hole saw+mandrel combos at Lowes or Home Depot? I do not have a mandrel, either :(.
 
Just invest the money in the proper tool and be done with it.

Swear to God, I'll never understand how modders are willing to spend money on CCTs, aluminum framed fans, UV reactive paint, cable sleeving... not to mention HOURS AND HOURS of time hiding wires (none of which have any real use) but when it comes time to actually invest in something useful that actually does something they're not willing to make a run to Lowes and buy what they need.
 
BellaCroix said:
Just invest the money in the proper tool and be done with it.

Swear to God, I'll never understand how modders are willing to spend money on CCTs, aluminum framed fans, UV reactive paint, cable sleeving... not to mention HOURS AND HOURS of time hiding wires (none of which have any real use) but when it comes time to actually invest in something useful that actually does something they're not willing to make a run to Lowes and buy what they need.
Click to expand...

Well, actually I haven't invested in most of those things :). But yeah, I do see what you are saying. I simply don't have cash flowing out of the pockets as a college student, thats all. Decent hole saws are not cheap.

I would definetly be willing to put down the money for a kit that includes a 4 1/2'' hole saw, but unfortunately I haven't seen them yet, at least at a reasonable price. I could definetly use the other sizes.

Quick question: are mandrels usually universal? I have contemplated buying a kit online, since I have seen some awesome deals (even though they might not be the best quality) and then simply purchasing a 4 1/2'' hole saw separately.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Quick question: are mandrels usually universal? I have contemplated buying a kit online, since I have seen some awesome deals (even though they might not be the best quality) and then simply purchasing a 4 1/2'' hole saw separately.
Click to expand...

I'd have to say it's a definite maybe. :p Most hole saws I've seen use the same type of mandrel for any hole saw over about 1-1/2" (although the 6" saw I have uses a different one but unless you're installing recessed can lights in your case you don't need to worry about that). Below that they're a little different.

Granted, all the hole saws I've purchased have been Blu-Mol holesaws so there may be some difference with "budget" brands but if you stick with a single manufacturer (I'd recommend Blu-Mol myself) a single mandrel will satisfy 90% of your projects.

Linkies below:
3" Blu-Mol Holesaw @ HomeDepot
4" Blu-Mol Holesaw @ HomeDepot
4-1/2" Blu-Mol Holesaw @ HomeDepot
Blu-Mol Quick Change, 3/8" Shank Mandrel @ HomeDepot

Milwaukee and Craftsman holesaws are probably also very good quality but after I purchased the first few saws and was happy with the performance of Blu-Mol I pretty much stuck with them and didn't bother shopping around.

I'd stay clear of the "flea market quality" tools. Even if the mandrel fits a better quality saw you really don't want to use crap inside a piece of quality. Remember, the overall stength of a chain can only be measured by the weakest link. If the mandrel is going to be crap you may as well just go with a crap holesaw too.

Hope that helps.
 
BellaCroix said:
I'd have to say it's a definite maybe. :p Most hole saws I've seen use the same type of mandrel for any hole saw over about 1-1/2" (although the 6" saw I have uses a different one but unless you're installing recessed can lights in your case you don't need to worry about that). Below that they're a little different.

Granted, all the hole saws I've purchased have been Blu-Mol holesaws so there may be some difference with "budget" brands but if you stick with a single manufacturer (I'd recommend Blu-Mol myself) a single mandrel will satisfy 90% of your projects.

Linkies below:
3" Blu-Mol Holesaw @ HomeDepot
4" Blu-Mol Holesaw @ HomeDepot
4-1/2" Blu-Mol Holesaw @ HomeDepot
Blu-Mol Quick Change, 3/8" Shank Mandrel @ HomeDepot

Milwaukee and Craftsman holesaws are probably also very good quality but after I purchased the first few saws and was happy with the performance of Blu-Mol I pretty much stuck with them and didn't bother shopping around.

I'd stay clear of the "flea market quality" tools. Even if the mandrel fits a better quality saw you really don't want to use crap inside a piece of quality. Remember, the overall stength of a chain can only be measured by the weakest link. If the mandrel is going to be crap you may as well just go with a crap holesaw too.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it does help. I didn't realize that there was a substantial difference in quality of mandrels. I thought that only the hole saw mattered.

So, I'm guessing I should stay away from something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20797&item=4389938779&rd=1
 
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DarkenReaper57 said:
Yeah, it does help. I didn't realize that there was a substantial difference in quality of mandrels. I thought that only the hole saw mattered.

So, I'm guessing I should stay away from something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20797&item=4389938779&rd=1
Click to expand...

Don't know anything about that particular brand... it looks like some of the tools I've purchased (and thrown away) from various flea markets over the years though when I figured $1.50 for a hammer was too good a price to pass up.

I can't make out much from the picture but the mandrel(s) look more like the wimpy Blu-Mol mandrel that fits hole saws below 1". Now, I'm no metalurgists or anything but I thought the reason for the beafier mandrels for larger saws was to accomodate the additional torque you'd need to move the actual saw.

The Blu-Mol mandrel does not drive the saw from the drill shaft (which it appears the one on eBay may) it actually has two little tangs that stick out from the shaft and engage matching holes on the bottom of the saw itself. Basically that's going to drive the saw in a different way and (in my opinion) provide a more stable cut and allow less flex.

I'm not understanding what the hex key and "installation plate" in that kit is for, it's possible there's some additional assemby required which does engage the saw in the same manner but even if that's the case I doubt it would then work with something like a Blu-Mol saw mount.

Regardless though, even if you manage to get that kit from eBay for $.99 (starting bid) you still have to pay $14.99 for shipping. Even if you're only planning on buying that for the mandrel and tossing everyting else, it's still more expensive than going to Home Depot and picking up the Blu-Mol mandrel for $12.43. (I think it was more at the brick-and-mortar than on-line but only by a dollar or two.)
 
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If you want a REAL 120mm hole saw, then you need to get a 4 3/4" which translates to a 121mm hole. I bought this Irwin 4 3/4" from Home Depot and it cuts great. It was $51.85 delivered. Yes it's expensive, but good tools cost money. I expect to use it for years to come.

This is an on-line only thing, no stores stock it (that I found). I got the Mandrel at a local Home Depot.

BUT, having said that, the thing is heavy as a bitch, it weighs about 3 pounds. Forget about a cordless drill turning this thing, you need a high torgue electric drill to cut quickly, preferably a 1/2" drill.
 
I got the Dewalt 4.75" Holesaw with the mandrel for about 45$ CDN from Rona.
The biggest one that Home Depot had was 4.5" and was more expensive.
 
What a useful thread! I have been wondering some of the same things.

I recently bought a Dremel XPR400 kit. One thing it has in it is an adjustable circle/hole cutter attachment. I have not tried it out yet, but I think the idea is that it anchors in a center hole point and the Dremel simply cuts as you work it in a circle. I am curious if anyone has used one of these on their Dremels. I mention it here because the total cost of the whole kit was $80. If you are new to modding, as I am, and in the process of collecting tools, this might be a way to kill several needs all at once.

Lawdog
 
Lawdog: that's not the most cost-effective option. I don't know how it works, and it may work very well, but you can get holesaws for cheaper. You can also get adjustable holesaws but a lot of them aren't big enough for 120mm fans.
 
Lawdog said:
What a useful thread! I have been wondering some of the same things.

I recently bought a Dremel XPR400 kit. One thing it has in it is an adjustable circle/hole cutter attachment. I have not tried it out yet, but I think the idea is that it anchors in a center hole point and the Dremel simply cuts as you work it in a circle. I am curious if anyone has used one of these on their Dremels. I mention it here because the total cost of the whole kit was $80. If you are new to modding, as I am, and in the process of collecting tools, this might be a way to kill several needs all at once.

Lawdog
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The hole cutter attachment is not meant for metal based cutting. Mostly for drywall and other wood projects. Might work mildly on soft metals but I dont think I would want to use it for hole cutting on cases. A hole saw is best. As said above and I will say again. Try and buy the right tool for the job, otherwise expect less than the right tool for the job work done.

For my case, $25 dollars is well spent. Then again, my case is over $300 by itself. Not to mention all the time I have put into it.
 
why don't you guys buy a set of tin snips, left, right and center cutters. I have cut the hell out of my old chieftec steel case with these including 2 120mm holes. Get a good set from lowe's for <$25 and they are precise as hell with less cleanup than using a hole saw. :cool:
 
thabub said:
why don't you guys buy a set of tin snips, left, right and center cutters. I have cut the hell out of my old chieftec steel case with these including 2 120mm holes. Get a good set from lowe's for <$25 and they are precise as hell with less cleanup than using a hole saw. :cool:
Click to expand...
Tin snips take unnecessarily longer amounts of time to complete. Especially on steel cases. How hard is it to turn on the Shop Vac? And sheesh what is so dang expensive about $25??? What is this great apprehension from hole saws? You are cutting HOLES! :)
 
thabub said:
why don't you guys buy a set of tin snips, left, right and center cutters. I have cut the hell out of my old chieftec steel case with these including 2 120mm holes. Get a good set from lowe's for <$25 and they are precise as hell with less cleanup than using a hole saw. :cool:
Click to expand...

Actually, I do have a set of tinsnips. I find it difficult to use them on 22 AWG steel, though. I can't seem to make accurate cuts, but that is probably just me.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Actually, I do have a set of tinsnips. I find it difficult to use them on 22 AWG steel, though. I can't seem to make accurate cuts, but that is probably just me.
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That, and the fact that snips distorts the metal around the cut because of the pressure it exerces (sp?) on the area to be able to cut.
 
True, there is some distortion... When cutting with hole saws and a block of wood backing, besides industrial cutting mechanisms (laser, waterjet, plasma, etc.) there isnt much better for low cost means and great results...
 
Wow, I got really cool surpise today. My father buys tools when he can get really good deals, and apparently he bought me a rotozip a while back but was waiting for my birthday. After I told him I was going to get some holesaws, he told me to hold on (since he had a rotozip himself, and I did not know he got me one) and to see if the circular hole-cutting attachment will work for metal too.

At first, I dismissed the idea since when I move back out for the summer I won't be able to cut holes, but then he surprised me :).

Anyway, I hope I can use this awesome tool to cut nice holes - does anyone know if this will work on 22 AWG steel sheet metal? http://rotozip.com/attachmentsdetail.aspx?p_intAttachID=12

It is just a guide, so I don't see why it wouldnt as long as I make sure there is a good pivot point.

EDIT: Perhaps this would be better? http://www.toolbarn.com/product/rotozip/CRCT2/
It looks a bit more sturdy.
 
Darken: you'll need a very good center anchor and a lot of patience. I've seen tools similar to those used before. Yes, they work, and to be completely honest, they work better than hole saws. The problem is that it's going to take a long time to cut. Holesaws tend to leave a little bit of a burred edge which can be knocked off with a file (or just as well a Dremel with a deburring tool), those just cut a very clean line by scoring over and over (and over and over and over) the same spot.

daedal: your Home Depot sucks. Mine has 6" hole saws. They're used to cut the hole for recessed ceiling can-lights. You want to talk about a heavy, ackward tool... try cutting a hole in your ceiling with a 6" holesaw and a 10 pound cordless drill. :(

thabub: if my case was made out of tin, and if I hadn't spent $260 for it, I might consider that. But since I'm cutting a round hole I'll stick with making the investment on the proper tool for the job.

Honestly, are you going to hammer a nail into a piece of wood with a crescent wrench or a boot just because you can? No, you're going to buy a hammer. How is this any different?

Saws-alls, Rotozips, etc aren't really designed for cutting mild grade steel. It'll probably work okay on some of the thinner aluminum cases but they're really intended, as Mickey21 said, for drywall, wood, ceramic tile (maybe, depending on the quality of tool), plastic (tub/shower enclosures, etc). I once saw someone cut cement board with one but it was the ugliest cut I've ever seen.
 
domoMKIV said:
why exactly would you want a cheap holesaw? spend the money right the first time this way you dont have to buy a 2nd or 3rd.
i picked mine up from lowes for around $30, hasnt let me down.
Click to expand...

Ditto the cheap ones just brake apart. :eek:
 
Herulach said:
OMG you need to get out more, ;)

But yeah, whats wrong with your local DIY shop? Not everything is cheaper online, and it certainly isnt better. PLus you can guarantee youre getting a decent bit of kit, i like to play with tools before i buy them (yes i clean them after :))
Click to expand...
Hey, I had never seen a mandrel like that. I had only ever used the type witht he two nuts. And I hated them.

I walked into Home Depot one night to buy a new hole saw and there it was, the one with that mandrel. I buy tools a lot and never noticed that particular style of mandrel.

But then again, a lot of the tools I buy are automotive related.
 
BellaCroix said:
Darken: you'll need a very good center anchor and a lot of patience. I've seen tools similar to those used before. Yes, they work, and to be completely honest, they work better than hole saws. The problem is that it's going to take a long time to cut. Holesaws tend to leave a little bit of a burred edge which can be knocked off with a file (or just as well a Dremel with a deburring tool), those just cut a very clean line by scoring over and over (and over and over and over) the same spot.

daedal: your Home Depot sucks. Mine has 6" hole saws. They're used to cut the hole for recessed ceiling can-lights. You want to talk about a heavy, ackward tool... try cutting a hole in your ceiling with a 6" holesaw and a 10 pound cordless drill. :(

thabub: if my case was made out of tin, and if I hadn't spent $260 for it, I might consider that. But since I'm cutting a round hole I'll stick with making the investment on the proper tool for the job.

Honestly, are you going to hammer a nail into a piece of wood with a crescent wrench or a boot just because you can? No, you're going to buy a hammer. How is this any different?

Saws-alls, Rotozips, etc aren't really designed for cutting mild grade steel. It'll probably work okay on some of the thinner aluminum cases but they're really intended, as Mickey21 said, for drywall, wood, ceramic tile (maybe, depending on the quality of tool), plastic (tub/shower enclosures, etc). I once saw someone cut cement board with one but it was the ugliest cut I've ever seen.
Click to expand...


Do you know if the "sabrecut" bit will work with sheet steel or not (22 AWG)? The manual mentions aluminum siding, but nothing about steel. I don't wanna screw up the bits, hehe.
 
I'd also like to chip in, since there's a lot of questions being asked, that if you plan to use any holesaw on metal, you're going to need a strong drill. I use a Black & Decker Firestorm[corded] drill and it works great.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Do you know if the "sabrecut" bit will work with sheet steel or not (22 AWG)? The manual mentions aluminum siding, but nothing about steel. I don't wanna screw up the bits, hehe.
Click to expand...

I've gotta give you credit. That was just about one of the best posts I've seen in a long time... even mentioned 22 AWG to specify exactly what you're cutting. For that alone I hope your mod goes exactly the way you planned. So tired of reading questions like "I'm looking for that little doo-dad that connects the flat part of my case with the round part".

I'm unfamiliar with the term "sabrecut" unless it's refering to the type of teeth on a particular saw blade.

Don't worry at all about the bits or holesaws. They're disposable and, while I realize for some people a $30 investment may be a lot of money, it's far less than the cost of a quality case.

I've honestly never seen the term "sabrecut" used to describe the tool you linked a picture to (unless I looked at it wrong). The tool I saw in the picture is one that I use to cut holes in plexi because it's so clean and requires so little cleanup.

If you're refering to a "sabrecut" holesaw then yes, that's fine. Like Hinokagutsuchi said, pay attention to the quality of the drill you purchase. In all fairness you don't need a Black & Decker, Makita, Dewalt drill. Just don't go bare budget. If you take your time even a "cheaper" drill will work fine. Just watch your drill speed, torque, pressure, and direction of the holesaw and you'll be golden.
 
The sabrecut bit is the atypical Rotozip bit. It has spiraled vertical teeth that cut material vertically (see link here). I have used this type of bit on steel (18-24AWG - most of my attempts on a disposable Antec 1080B aka Cheiftech equivalent I had laying around) with the Craftsman "Rotozip" equivalent. I DO NOT reccomend using this type of cutting on steel cases. For straight cuts, go with a dremel or jigsaw style cutting. For holes, go for the hole saw. Either cut, debur afterwards and sand to smooth. Your results will thank you... I have cut up enough cases to know how to do this. But what do I know...
 
Mickey21 said:
The sabrecut bit is the atypical Rotozip bit. It has spiraled vertical teeth that cut material vertically (see link here). I have used this type of bit on steel (18-24AWG - most of my attempts on a disposable Antec 1080B aka Cheiftech equivalent I had laying around) with the Craftsman "Rotozip" equivalent. I DO NOT reccomend using this type of cutting on steel cases. For straight cuts, go with a dremel or jigsaw style cutting. For holes, go for the hole saw. Either cut, debur afterwards and sand to smooth. Your results will thank you... I have cut up enough cases to know how to do this. But what do I know...
Click to expand...

Well, I am not exactly cutting a case - I am cutting 22 AWG sheet steel. I plan on using the circle guide (I have not purchased it get) since for accuracy, the rotozip can be rather cumbersome for case modding.

The "sabrecut" bits did work though, yes? Why do you not recommend their use with steel? Do they rip apart the metal or cause it to bend at the cut?

I will still be sure to test on scrap, of course.
 
dandragonrage said:
Lawdog: that's not the most cost-effective option. I don't know how it works, and it may work very well, but you can get holesaws for cheaper. You can also get adjustable holesaws but a lot of them aren't big enough for 120mm fans.
Click to expand...

Good point. I needed a Dremel anyway and was curious if anyone else had tried it. I may have a sheet of 22 AWG laying around and will try it out to see how it works.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Well, I am not exactly cutting a case - I am cutting 22 AWG sheet steel. I plan on using the circle guide (I have not purchased it get) since for accuracy, the rotozip can be rather cumbersome for case modding.

The "sabrecut" bits did work though, yes? Why do you not recommend their use with steel? Do they rip apart the metal or cause it to bend at the cut?

I will still be sure to test on scrap, of course.
Click to expand...
The problem is with how violent the cutting is... The sabercut is cutting vertically. In that cutting action it is forcing material downward(assuming you are holding upright). This force tends to want to push the cutting tool upward away from the metal surface. The fact that you are trying to cut steel only compounds the results. The material is so tough that the upward action is sometimes very unexpected. This causes very inaccurate cuts and tendency to kick back. The cut will not be very acurate. At 30000 RPMs the tool become unstable with hard materials and can be hard to work with. Unsafe even. Compound that with a device that is attached to it (ie circle cutting attachment) will only make it that much more unsafe...

Picture this, you are cutting along and the tool kicks because the bit chips and looses sharpness. In this kick back action, the hole cutting attachment that is anchored to the center of the material resists the movement and only the bit kicks out of the hole, but still going 30000RPM. Not only are your risking getting cut by the tool or by the freshly cut metal, you are risking damaging the work in progress. I messed up a couple of case surfaces because of this problem.

I am only trying to save you time. Cutting 22AWG steel is cutting 22AWG steel, rather a case or not (unless you dont care how the cut looks afterwards or use some type of jig). It is the toughness of steel that posses the issue. Aluminum doesnt give this problem much because of it's softer material nature. But high speed cutting tools are best kept to cutoff wheels with hard metals, or working with wood, tile, soft materials. Even cutoff disks get dangerous with cutting tools...

On another side note, steel kicks the crap out of the sabercut bits. They dont cut very much of it... Not that they are expensive, but all you have to do is kill 10-15 of them and you already bought yourself one good hole saw...
 
Mickey21 said:
The problem is with how violent the cutting is... The sabercut is cutting vertically. In that cutting action it is forcing material downward(assuming you are holding upright). This force tends to want to push the cutting tool upward away from the metal surface. The fact that you are trying to cut steel only compounds the results. The material is so tough that the upward action is sometimes very unexpected. This causes very inaccurate cuts and tendency to kick back. The cut will not be very acurate. At 30000 RPMs the tool become unstable with hard materials and can be hard to work with. Unsafe even. Compound that with a device that is attached to it (ie circle cutting attachment) will only make it that much more unsafe...

Picture this, you are cutting along and the tool kicks because the bit chips and looses sharpness. In this kick back action, the hole cutting attachment that is anchored to the center of the material resists the movement and only the bit kicks out of the hole, but still going 30000RPM. Not only are your risking getting cut by the tool or by the freshly cut metal, you are risking damaging the work in progress. I messed up a couple of case surfaces because of this problem.

I am only trying to save you time. Cutting 22AWG steel is cutting 22AWG steel, rather a case or not (unless you dont care how the cut looks afterwards or use some type of jig). It is the toughness of steel that posses the issue. Aluminum doesnt give this problem much because of it's softer material nature. But high speed cutting tools are best kept to cutoff wheels with hard metals, or working with wood, tile, soft materials. Even cutoff disks get dangerous with cutting tools...

On another side note, steel kicks the crap out of the sabercut bits. They dont cut very much of it... Not that they are expensive, but all you have to do is kill 10-15 of them and you already bought yourself one good hole saw...
Click to expand...

I see, thanks for the info. What if I were to sandwich the metal between plywood? Shouldn't this help things?
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
I see, thanks for the info. What if I were to sandwich the metal between plywood? Shouldn't this help things?
Click to expand...
I suppose that would help, but now that is making a lot of material to cut and I would bet the bit would break more easily due to horizontal torque resistance to cutting. Sabercuts are best used with soft thin material. At least the sandwich would protect your work from being damaged, but I would still worry that you could injure yourself. Maybe if you took the cutting at a much lower speed, say at least below 15000 RPM. But at the slower speed kick backs might actually increase...

You'd be surprised how little force it takes to break the bit due to the bit flexing from resistance...
 
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