24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

[mathesar]

You could try taking it to a TV repair shop that works on CRTs. For actual FW900 repairs you would need to send it to a Authorized Sony Service Center (there is one in San Diego, CA). Since Sony only stocks parts for 7 years after last manufacture date, this (or possibly last year) may be the last year parts are available. So even the Authorized Sony Service Center may refuse repairs.

I was hoping to find one in town as the shipping costs for an FW900 would be pretty expensive. I haven't given up yet Im going to call more shops in town tomorrow or monday.

 

[Hurin]

Owners of a properly or decently calibrated FW900, I have a question for you, or rather, if you could please do this test for me. At night, with all lights off in the room (you won't see this otherwise) - display a -perfectly- black, 100% black everywhere screen, watch it for 2-3 minutes in the dark (so your eyes adapt to the light level). Can you see it glowing/lighting up the image? I've read some people saying they cannot see that the monitor is on in a pitch black room.

It's funny you mention this. I was just noticing the exact same thing on my otherwise perfectly-functioning FW900.

I used to think that I could get it completely black. . . as in showing zero light in a dark room.

However, the last time I did a Image Restore (which seems to bring brightness back down after it creeps up a bit over a few months), I turned out all the lights, set the Windows screen save to "blank". . . and within about 10 seconds, my eyes started detecting a faint glow.

But, here's the thing, I have moved recently. When I used to do that test, I was in an upstairs apartment with street light bleeding in even at the darkest/latest point of the night. That room never got completely dark. Now, we've moved to the suburbs, and my office is actually 100% dark with all the lights out. So, I think that more than anything else is the culprit. It's amazing what a bit of ambient light will do to the human eye and its ability to detect light/glow coming from discrete sources. Would be happy to hear from others though who can also get a truly dark room/testing environment.

Best,

H

 

[zzcool]

hi i got a question as this is creeping me out and pising mne the F off when i tryed to open the monitor i lost my temper and lightly started hitting the thing to unatch i the back when i started it up after that i had a green color in the corner degauss fixed it

was this something permanent or what was it?

can a monitor really get damaged if you hit it's shell in the back?

 

[Cyberbeing]

Owners of a properly or decently calibrated FW900, I have a question for you, or rather, if you could please do this test for me. At night, with all lights off in the room (you won't see this otherwise) - display a -perfectly- black, 100% black everywhere screen, watch it for 2-3 minutes in the dark (so your eyes adapt to the light level). Can you see it glowing/lighting up the image? I've read some people saying they cannot see that the monitor is on in a pitch black room.

Can't speak directly about the FW900, but with the F520 (which I've owned 3), it just depends on the brightness you have set. Depending on how sensitive your eyes are, at around 25-35 Brightness you shouldn't be able to detect any light coming from the monitor with a black screen in a pitch black room. At 50 Brightness, a light glow is always obvious.

This is with the R, G, B Brightness/Offset (used for tweaking near-black color temp) set to ~80 for all three guns in expert mode.

It sounds like your FW900 has a bit of a brightness problem. Compared to a LCD, does your monitor appear washed out?

I was hoping to find one in town as the shipping costs for an FW900 would be pretty expensive. I haven't given up yet Im going to call more shops in town tomorrow or monday.

You need to find a small Mom & Pop TV repair shop. You won't find a local Sony repair center which will touch these monitors.

 

[ZeosPantera]

It's funny you mention this. I was just noticing the exact same thing on my otherwise perfectly-functioning FW900.

I used to think that I could get it completely black. . . as in showing zero light in a dark room. Would be happy to hear from others though who can also get a truly dark room/testing environment.

I'm a bit sick so I spent last night watching a 1080P copy of lord of the rings. I broke habit and shut all the lights off. The black areas below and above were clearly not black now. I have the anti-glare removed and brightness defaults during normal usage to 35. To achieve what I considered BLACK I had to lower the brightness down to 25 but a few minutes in I could not take the darkest of the dark scenes and had to raise it slightly to 28. I feel lowering to 0 would definitely provide infinite blacks but I have not tested the 3 minutes for eyes to adjust technique. I don't really see a reason to be concerned at that level of light anyway. If your a nut (and we all are) then you can concern yourselves with it.

 

[zzcool]

what does it mean when the degauss won't work properly it is not the same monitor but i dgaussed like 4 times in a row with about 2 min space between them and the first time i did the degauss barely did anything i just got a click instead of that usual BOOM

what does that mean i know that it happens after you degauss many times

i will never touch degauss again other then that the picture on my monitor is fine so nothing happend right

what a bad luck day oh and hitting the monitor the same way i did the other one did nothing too it (don't ask me how that part happend)

as for the degauss part it fixed my geom it is almost perfect now thats why i wanted to do it but now it just clicks when i do degauss nothing happens if you do degauss once multiple times right

i would like an answer to all this as i have managed to scare myself even thou both monitors are perfectly fine i would like some answer saying nothing happend as for the degauss that it just needs warming up or whatever as i know that way it clicks happend when you do degauss once and then once again i have done that on monitors i don't care about so i know

it took about 2-1 hours since i tryed again and it still clicked should i wait untill tommorow and try again or just leave it since the monitor is working fine and i must say the geom is nearly 100% perfect now and since i am having no problems with the pictures nothing what so ever actually happend right

would like a an answer to make it all good

oh and yes i am aware that i was stupid but this monitor wouldn't open compared to the others i spent a good 2 hours to get it up so i lost my temper

as for the monitor i wrote about here i did degauss as the geometry got fixed but then it just clicked so i did it again

i just want to be sue that nothing happend with either one of them

atleast i learned a lesson never touch degauss no matter what unless discoloring

 

[quantum112]

what does it mean when the degauss won't work properly it is not the same monitor but i dgaussed like 4 times in a row with about 2 min space between them and the first time i did the degauss barely did anything i just got a click instead of that usual BOOM

what does that mean i know that it happens after you degauss many times

That means you are overloading the degaussing circuit and engaging it that often is a good way to fry it, you really should have no need to degauss as the monitor does this on start-up and use it only if your monitor comes near a heavily magnetic source.

As far as the sound is concerned, you will only get a 'loud' degauss when the monitor is turning on. Degaussing manually from the menu will give a slight click and shake. I suggest you leave the degauss option alone from here on, and use the landing settings to correct any obvious corner discoloration.

Can't speak directly about the FW900, but with the F520 (which I've owned 3), it just depends on the brightness you have set. Depending on how sensitive your eyes are, at around 25-35 Brightness you shouldn't be able to detect any light coming from the monitor with a black screen in a pitch black room. At 50 Brightness, a light glow is always obvious.

This is with the R, G, B Brightness/Offset (used for tweaking near-black color temp) set to ~80 for all three guns in expert mode.

It sounds like your FW900 has a bit of a brightness problem. Compared to a LCD, does your monitor appear washed out?

It does not appear washed out at all, however considering the settings I have to use to get relatively accurate grayscale tracking, I'd say this monitor is in serious need of getting it's white/black point set in WinDAS with a calibrator. That's a good foundation for a whole lot of other image issues.
It looks like the image restoration circuit can't quite handle these types of problems - even though I see it going through an almost perfectly gray screen, it doesn't seem to settle for actually using that setting, so I guess something must be off calibration wise. I know that no matter what the color temperature is, the black point definitely should not have any obvious color tint, and the only way to get rid of that nasty green is to bring the Green Bias all the way down to 0.

As I've said no matter how far I bring the brightness down, I can still see the monitor lighting the pixels, however slightly. If I look straight ahead at it long enough, I start to 'lose' it and it blends in with the surrounding darkness of the room, but moving my head around or looking at it from peripheral vision I can clearly see it glowing.

P.S. As I've been doing some reading on contrast ratios in various devices and such, I've come across this website. It seems to perfectly outline all the problems I've noticed with this (and other CRTs) monitor. Particularly this part:

"In a CRT, black level is highly dependent on picture content. If the scene is bright, the CRT has a tendency to flare. When the electrons in the CRT hit a phosphor, light will be emitted in all directions. Some light will bounce back into the tube and be reflected out. The inside of the CRT is coated with light-absorbing material to minimize this scattering. Other emitted light will strike surrounding phosphors and then exit the monitor. And yet other light will be reflected off the glass-air interface of the monitor, strike other phosphors on the screen, and then exit the monitor. All these sources contribute to significant light scattering and limit the blacks that can be achieved with a CRT.

One measurement of flare is simultaneous contrast ratio. Although there are many different ways of measuring simultaneous contrast, the basic idea is to measure black when there is non-black content being displayed. One set of measurements show that a Sony PVM CRT achieves a simultaneous contrast ratio of a measly 75:1 compared to a consumer LCD with a simultaneous contrast ratio of 577:1."

This is what I've noticed. Going from a full black to a full white screen shows amazing contrast. But put a bright window smack in the middle of that fully black screen and watch the bright glow around it shift all surrounding black into a mid-gray. The more white you have on the screen, the worse the blacks get. As it says here, this makes CRT's contrast ratio in those types of situations worse than those of an LCD. I guess this is a result of the dark, matte screen of LCD's which significantly reduce halo's and light reflection in all directions. Too bad they didn't use those kinds of screens on CRT's, which I assume they could - had they not put a half an inch thick faceplate in front of the tube itself.

As we can see, CRT is far from perfect. Even with all these nasty glows and side-effects, the overall image is still more pleasing than any LCD. Yet I guess, the spot for the perfect display technology is still widely open - but I don't think we will see that for a long, long time.

 

[zzcool]

That means you are overloading the degaussing circuit and engaging it that often is a good way to fry it, you really should have no need to degauss as the monitor does this on start-up and use it only if your monitor comes near a heavily magnetic source.

As far as the sound is concerned, you will only get a 'loud' degauss when the monitor is turning on. Degaussing manually from the menu will give a slight click and shake. I suggest you leave the degauss option alone from here on, and use the landing settings to correct any obvious corner discoloration.

i know now why it clicks it is because the monitor itself or degauss feature didn't get time to warm up as i tryed it on a less important monitor after cold start and it just clicked as well does that mean nothing permanent happend to this monitor as it wasn't even warmed up and not degaussing properly

i want to know did i do some permanent damage on this one the picture is fine did i wear out anything doing that or didn't i do anything because it didn't degauss properly i would really like to know

like i said the clicks are caused by it not being warmed up as i tryed on a less important monitor after cold start i onlu got a click and not the usual BOOM

so anyone please tell me

also

As far as the sound is concerned, you will only get a 'loud' degauss when the monitor is turning on

i know what a degauss looks and sounds like all i got was a slight click and the picture barely moved

 

[XacTactX]

Does the FW900 record how many hours it has been on?

Someone on CL is advertising for $150, and I don't want to get a crappy one. Can you guys give me some tips on things I should look for if I decide to pick one up? 1920 x 1200 @ 85hz is mighty tempting...

Much appreciated.

 

[zzcool]

ok degauss is working properly again turns out it just needed to be warmed up

also can degauss change the geom any way?

as i don't remember but i think i had better geom then this

 

[cinnamonandgravy]

someone recommended using a cable that used ferrites in its construction. heres what blue jean cables has to say about it:

"No, we don’t use ferrites. I generally regard a cable that requires a ferrite core attached to it as being inferior. The ferrites are used as a high frequency noise choke, and a properly shielded cable will not need this.

I steer away from them."

also, did i read this correctly? without the windas cable, and only the .dll's or whathaveyou, you can adjust geometry among some other things? because my geometry is pure ass.

 

[zzcool]

heres a guide to get the picture amazing with fairly good black level i tryed keeping brightness down to keep up with perfect black level but the picture is just too dark

what i did was the following

higher the brightness untill it gets barely visible at 1.4 and not visible at all after 1.2 which makes the black level really bad but give it a try i got it set to 33 brightness (note i don't have any anti glare on this monitor anymore so i don't know if it works the same with monitors with the anti glare) also remember to have color temp to 10 000 and contrast 100

then adjust gamma via nvidia control panel if you use nvidia untill this test shows perfectly grey boxes or as close to it as possible

http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/2point2.htm

now start a colorful game like vice city and get blown away by the clarity and colors

the picture is now perfect for me the black level is fine i will not touch the adjustments anymore

also offtopic would it be possible for someone who knows to build in windas in the monitor and connect it to the front adjustment button and make a new OSD menu that has all the windas adjustments sort of like updating the OSD with windas

instead of changing with windas thru windows changing thru the menu in the monitor

that would be possible right for someone who knows how it would be nice having a unlimited setting OSD and not the limited default one would also be alot easyer with more settings

so for anyone who knows these stuff give it a try could probably make money off of it

 

[War Zone]

here a real bugger for ya all .

seems i got my self a Sony FW900 FD 24" CRT Monitor GDM-FW900 .its the HP version but from what i understand its the same monitor .it was made in 2002

if this problem has bin addressed in the past on this forum thread have no idea .
all ready read like 70+ posts so far and well its still going strong at 320+ post atm and i have spent maybe 3 days on the topic on the net looking for anything that might point me in the right direction .

problem is

"A" i have to turn the brightness down to off and raise the contrast to max and even then the black levels or parts of the screen that should be black aren't .not the end of the world i guess its juts the monitors age .
that gets a little better as the monitor warms up some but still seeing gray when it should be black well you know .things 9 years old .
guess that's just age .

"B" the real problem is ghosting .
qiki quote

In electronics, signal processing, and video, ringing is unwanted oscillation of a signal, particularly in the step response (the response to a sudden change in input). It is also known as hunting. It is closely related to overshoot, generally occurring following overshoot, and thus the terms are at time conflated.

In video circuits, electrical ringing causes closely spaced repeated ghosts of a vertical or diagonal edge where dark changes to light or vice versa, going from left to right. In a CRT the electron beam upon changing from dark to light or vice versa instead of changing quickly to the desired intensity and staying there, overshoots and undershoots a few times. This bouncing could occur anywhere in the electronics or cabling and is often caused by or accentuated by a too high setting of the sharpness control.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_%28signal%29

it looks something like the pic on the right.

or something like this

their ghosting images to the right of everything at anything higher then 800x600 res.its still their at low res its just not as notable .the higher the res and or refresh rate the more you'll pick up on it .
its really buggy on the eye balls.
you wont really spot in it gaming but when looking at your desktop or text its hell .it seems to not be as pronounced as well as the monitor warms up some.
funny thing is i have a Philips 19" shadow mask crt monitor that douse the same thing but unless your using the right color in the background and your face is 2" from the screen and squinting you cant pick up on it.

juts for the record i have like 4 vga cables .
2 are really decent quality and i have maybe 30 video cards \ 8 computers on hand .
no mater what i do with the vga cable or video card topic or res or refresh rate its all ways their so it has to be something internal that bugging .
unless of cores you don't mind using a 24" crt at 800x600 res or lower then you wont see it anymore .well not much .its still their but their images are aligned one of top of the other so they become one.
the more you jack the res the more the ghost images separate and the more vertical refresh rate you use the cleaner the image gets .so its not really helping

bitch is im not a electrical engineer and i bet ya just soldering one resistor or capacitor just in the right place would probably fix the thing .
as a last resort ill dismantle the hole thing and clean everything with electronic contact cleaner and or re-solder some stuff .
but really that's all i can do so far for this problem

recap
"A" its not the vga cable or anything on the vga cable as far as i know.

"B" its not burn in ghosting from leaving a image in the same place too long.

"C" it a white ghost that repeats its self to the right of whatever on the screen over and over getting weaker each time .
seems to be lag as well when i move the mouse up\down from one ghost image to the next.
all most like theirs a delay.

"D" its not the video card.

"E" its not refresh vertical rate.

thank you in advance for your time and understanding.
and ya lcd suck

sucks their no venerable resistors to mess with in the monitor .
you should see some old school crt TVs or my old VCR .
its like infested with the things .
grate to turning the thing as it gets old seeing as you can put anything +\- 25% from what it should be to compensate for some of the components\integrated electronic clusters aging

sadly as well i removed the anti glare film from the Sony fw-900 .
its about the same color as the white~gray ish ghosts and would have concealed the ghosting up to a point .
with it gone the image is Cristal clear as are the ghosts

ps my Philips 109B50 mint and looking at a lcd from a performance stand point vs this crt besides the size difference is like comparing a p3 500mgz vs a water cooled core 2 4000mgz

 

[zzcool]

here a real bugger for ya all .

seems i got my self a Sony FW900 FD 24" CRT Monitor GDM-FW900 .its the HP version but from what i understand its the same monitor .it was made in 2002

if this problem has bin addressed in the past on this forum thread have no idea .
all ready read like 70+ posts so far and well its still going strong at 320+ post atm and i have spent maybe 3 days on the topic on the net looking for anything that might point me in the right direction .

problem is

"A" i have to turn the brightness down to off and raise the contrast to max and even then the black levels or parts of the screen that should be black aren't .not the end of the world i guess its juts the monitors age .
that gets a little better as the monitor warms up some but still seeing gray when it should be black well you know .things 9 years old .
guess that's just age .

"B" the real problem is ghosting .
qiki quote



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_%28signal%29

it looks something like the pic on the right.

or something like this

their ghosting images to the right of everything at anything higher then 800x600 res.its still their at low res its just not as notable .the higher the res and or refresh rate the more you'll pick up on it .
its really buggy on the eye balls.
you wont really spot in it gaming but when looking at your desktop or text its hell .it seems to not be as pronounced as well as the monitor warms up some.
funny thing is i have a Philips 19" shadow mask crt monitor that douse the same thing but unless your using the right color in the background and your face is 2" from the screen and squinting you cant pick up on it.

juts for the record i have like 4 vga cables .
2 are really decent quality and i have maybe 30 video cards \ 8 computers on hand .
no mater what i do with the vga cable or video card topic or res or refresh rate its all ways their so it has to be something internal that bugging .
unless of cores you don't mind using a 24" crt at 800x600 res or lower then you wont see it anymore .well not much .its still their but their images are aligned one of top of the other so they become one.
the more you jack the res the more the ghost images separate and the more vertical refresh rate you use the cleaner the image gets .so its not really helping

bitch is im not a electrical engineer and i bet ya just soldering one resistor or capacitor just in the right place would probably fix the thing .
as a last resort ill dismantle the hole thing and clean everything with electronic contact cleaner and or re-solder some stuff .
but really that's all i can do so far for this problem

recap
"A" its not the vga cable or anything on the vga cable as far as i know.

"B" its not burn in ghosting from leaving a image in the same place too long.

"C" it a white ghost that repeats its self to the right of whatever on the screen over and over getting weaker each time .
seems to be lag as well when i move the mouse up\down from one ghost image to the next.
all most like theirs a delay.

"D" its not the video card.

"E" its not refresh vertical rate.

thank you in advance for your time and understanding.
and ya lcd suck

sucks their no venerable resistors to mess with in the monitor .
you should see some old school crt TVs or my old VCR .
its like infested with the things .
grate to turning the thing as it gets old seeing as you can put anything +\- 25% from what it should be to compensate for some of the components aging

ghosting is normal it only happens in black it is phosphor lagg

as for the letters you need to set your convergence go to the menu and then conver then mess around with it and see the letters getting sharper

 

[War Zone]

ghosting is normal it only happens in black it is phosphor lagg

as for the letters you need to set your convergence go to the menu and then conver then mess around with it and see the letters getting sharper

i did the full tuning on the convergence topic by hand with all the options available in and out of the monitor in question its bang on .theirs some minor convergence problems in the top right of the screen but im not too freaked about it.monitor is 9 years old you know.

btw phosphor lag of that kind only happens on plasmas and lcd .
were talking crt here .you know how fast a crt reacts .


and were talking about a none moving 2d image.and everything douse this on a none moving 2d screen

 

[zzcool]

i did the full tuning on the convergence topic by hand with all the options available in and out of the monitor in question its bang on .theirs some minor convergence problems in the top right of the screen but im not too freaked about it.monitor is 9 years old you know.

btw phosphor lag of that kind only happens on plasmas and lcd .
were talking crt here .you know how fast a crt reacts .


and were talking about a none moving 2d image.and everything douse this on a none moving 2d screen

well i was told by a friend that it's normal and i own 3 fw900's and they all have the ghosting in black

 

[quantum112]

First of all that is not ghosting. That is phosphor lag. It does and will happen on all CRT's. Simply because the phosphor does NOT instantly turn off once the voltage stops. The glow takes a few milliseconds to dissipate (this is dependant on phosphor-persistance, high persistence phoshpors such as those used on military displays, radar etc. glow longer and as such need a lower refresh rate). That is why you see the cursor trails. Nothing can be done about it except reducing contrast to make it less noticeable, sorry. It's just the way a CRT works. Ask anyone.

P.S. How can phosphor lag happen on an LCD? LCD does not have phosphors.

 

[War Zone]

well i was told by a friend that it's normal and i own 3 fw900's and they all have the ghosting in black

my ghosting on any color and you see it mostly on a wight background not black and remember Sir 2d none moving image for everything on your screen and its not their at 640x480 res

sadly id like to take a pic of it with my digital camera but i cant sink the refresh rates of the two devices and and missing a changer for the thing so that's not helping much lol .id need a normal camera and a scanner.

P.S. How can phosphor lag happen on an LCD? LCD does not have phosphors.

my bad i meant movement blur

btw some of the people in past posts were thinking of removing the goo under the anti glare .try soaking over night with 10w30 engen oil or wd40 then use a fine blade Exacto to remove ~ scrape off the leftovers ..worked for me .when i went to peal off the anti glare 40% of the goo was stuck on the glass ..so i had to deal with it the hard way .no scratch anywhere on it

use the flat one 2nd from the left

here this image is close to what im talking about
seeing as a image is worth a 1000 words


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jm63BEhHWUk&feature=related
hears a vid of phosphor lag .
its 100% no were near what im talking about seeing as were talking about 2d none moving image.

found some more pics {Ringing artifacts}

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_artifacts

 

[cinnamonandgravy]

i think youre talking about the same issue i have.

it isnt phosphorus lag - i think - because the 'ghosting' is happening on a STATIC image, NOT a MOVING one.

happens mostly with black objects, and the 'ghosts' always for me appear to the right of the black object. i get multiple copies of the black object, overlapped and trailing to the right of the original object. the farther away the 'ghost' copy is from the original object, the more faded out it is.

kinda like this:

http://img84.imageshack.us/i/fw900meh.png/

but the objects are a lot closer to each other. remember, this is with STATIC images.

anyone have a clue to fix it?

 

[dowant120hz]

kinda like this:

http://img84.imageshack.us/i/fw900meh.png/

but the objects are a lot closer to each other. remember, this is with STATIC images.

anyone have a clue to fix it?

i get the same using low quality vga cables
should try that first

you can get a good one for 10 bucks or less

 

[CoolColJ]

Yeah, you need a good cable, and try and move the cable around. With my Sony E200 17 incher with a captive cable, it sometimes has double ghosts, and I have to move the cable around to fix it

 

[zzcool]

my ghosting on any color and you see it mostly on a wight background not black and remember Sir 2d none moving image for everything on your screen and its not their at 640x480 res

sadly id like to take a pic of it with my digital camera but i cant sink the refresh rates of the two devices and and missing a changer for the thing so that's not helping much lol .id need a normal camera and a scanner.


my bad i meant movement blur

btw some of the people in past posts were thinking of removing the goo under the anti glare .try soaking over night with 10w30 engen oil or wd40 then use a fine blade Exacto to remove ~ scrape off the leftovers ..worked for me .when i went to peal off the anti glare 40% of the goo was stuck on the glass ..so i had to deal with it the hard way .no scratch anywhere on it

use the flat one 2nd from the left

here this image is close to what im talking about
seeing as a image is worth a 1000 words


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jm63BEhHWUk&feature=related
hears a vid of phosphor lag .
its 100% no were near what im talking about seeing as were talking about 2d none moving image.

found some more pics {Ringing artifacts}

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_artifacts

NEVER USE A KNIFE to get the anti glare off atleast thats my opinion i just put a credit card on the edge of the glare untill i had enough to get a grithen i just held my foot in the glas and slowly abut carefullu peeled the anti glare off with my hand it worked great on all 2 monitors but the third one i now need something to get rud if the glue leftovers

a tip DO NOT use a knife close to the glass try your hand and nails to get the edge of the anti glare off and then slowly just peel it off

also you should know it is WOURTH IT

 

[ZeosPantera]

"B" the real problem is ghosting.

well i was told by a friend that it's normal and i own 3 fw900's and they all have the ghosting in black

i think youre talking about the same issue i have.

it isnt phosphorus lag - i think - because the 'ghosting' is happening on a STATIC image, NOT a MOVING one.

anyone have a clue to fix it?

OK. I had this issue and fixed it 2 dozen pages ago which is a lifetime in this thread. I presume you are all using DVI->VGA adapters to hook up the monitors?

If YES then that is the issue. I have 3 FW900's and have hooked them all up with several BNC and VGA cables and they all will ghost until you find a "special" DVI adapter. I went through all 5 of mine. 3 ATi Freebee's a mac version and a $12 radio shack version. Only 1 of them gave absolutely no ghosting. It was an old ATi silver unit I believe from my 9500Pro!. I am not sure what why or how but it seems to be a very random crapshoot.

So my suggestion. Talk to all your friends and get them to hand over the goods. Plenty of people have those just sitting in a desk drawer somewhere. If no one else can help you will have to buy a few. And I mean a few just because you buy a new one that doesn't mean anything. If you can grab 10 of them for $5 and then return 9 later do it.

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CALIBRATION IMAGES--1920x1200

Figured I would post these again as alot of people are asking how to get it right without a colorimeter. Download and use this Image Viewing program for the adjustments. http://www.filehippo.com/download_faststone_image_viewer/ DO NOT TRY AND ADJUST FROM YOUR BROWSER!!

Basic Contrast and Brightness - Convergence (These two patterns are pretty self explanatory. Use the first one to determine if you have proper height/width with the circle pattern and a ruler. A half inch black space should be maintained on the top or bottom to achieve 1:1 , Check for contrast with the small left and right white checkerboard strips. You should see all denominations. Use the Darker checker strips inside the circle to adjust contrast. The very last darkest block should be 99.9999% as black as the background. The second pattern is for convergence and edge geometry. Use the conv tools to get all the single pixel dots as close to white with no bleed as possible. Use the outside edge to find the absolute maximum screen size)


Color Balance - Neutral Grey with Tones (The first image should show no coloration of any kind. If it does adjust until it doesn't. The other images SHOULD show a slight coloration. 5% 3% and 1% with Red Blue and Green Tinting. If you don't see a coloration to the grey adjust until you do. Repeat the check against the first image)


Detecting Landing (Discoloration in the corners of any of these will indicate poor landing adjustments. Go through each one and adjust accordingly. Use the last checkerboard for geometry in the corners)

 

[quantum112]

In my opinion, the best way to adjust this monitor by eye is this.

Download this program. http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/testsoftware/eizo-monitor-test.html

http://img266.imageshack.us/i/blackpointj.jpg/

Open it, use the 2nd screen (the fully black one). Turn up the monitor brightness and contrast to 100. The screen should be a mid-gray, fully neutral. If your gray looks colored, your black point is off.

This is adjusted by the Bias controls (aka cutoff) under Color>Expert. Gain settings should not affect this screen in any way. Adjust the Bias settings until you achieve the most neutral looking shade of gray. Move the colors back and forth to get a feel for this.

http://img258.imageshack.us/i/whitepoint.jpg/

Move to the second screen - the white one. Your bias settings will have skewed the white point somewhat, which means you need to readjust the gain settings. Try to get a slightly reddish/yellowish white point - you can't really eyeball the 6500K standard but I reckon you can get close to + / - 500K.

http://img834.imageshack.us/i/grayscale.jpg/

Move a couple of screens forward until you get to the grayscale, drop the brightness (black level)down to a comfortable, accurate level. Pay attention to the darker tones. If you see a color tint to the dark to mid-grays, your black point is off. Return to the fully black screen, re-up the brightness and readjust the Bias levels.
If you see color tint in the white and brighter grays, readjust your white point (gains).

 

[War Zone]

war zone

btw some of the people in past posts were thinking of removing the goo under the anti glare .try soaking over night with 10w30 engine oil or wd40 then use a fine Exacto blade to remove ~ scrape off the leftovers ..worked for me .when i went to peal off the anti glare 40% of the goo was stuck on the glass ..so i had to deal with it the hard way .no scratch anywhere on it

zzcool

NEVER USE A KNIFE to get the anti glare off at least that's my opinion i just put a credit card on the edge of the glare until i had enough to get a grithen i just held my foot in the glass and slowly but carefully peeled the anti glare off with my hand it worked great on all 2 monitors but the third one i now need something to get rud if the glue leftovers

btw zzcool

removing the goo

soaking over night with 10w30 engine oil

Exacto blade

and the blade never touch's the screen its floating on the oil but if you want to use your finger nails go for it
and i never said anywhere to use it to try and peal the anti glare off .
only the glue under it if it all gets stuck on the glass screen in the after math .

ps sorry for typos {fixed some in quotes}
anyways ! moving right along.
btw zzcool don't monster quote for no reason .your wasting forum screen space with imho spaming.
and that's a border line troll tactic.

-------------------------------------------------------

agreed cinnamonandgravy that's bang on the topic\problem i have.
iv seen others with that problem as well for the question

anyone have a clue to fix it?

and im\we are working on it .
but in my case its really starting to look like a internal hardware problem on the monitor in question and not anything on the out side .
i do wish i had a 100% bran name vga monster thick cable though :\

here a interesting link on the topic .and buddy's able to fix the problem on a different Sony monitor for 0.85 cents in partshttp://www.cir-engineering.com/white_papers/pcbmod/PCBmod.htm .

depressing seeing as if you don't understand what this means

http://ded.zenblue.net/FW900_Service_Manual.zip
then were both in trouble .i really don't feel like paying $100 for the repair job at a shop.

i have 4 crts here .
one is a 17" and at 1280x1024 res their 100% no ghosting .
funny thing is the vga cable that's on it and is hard wired in to the thing and its a huge gage wire.
no cross talk their.
so up to a point ya the vga cable i have isn't the best one in the world and is probably not helping seeing as its a no name brand medium quality vga cable .
its thickness is decent and about as thick as my pinky but i have no idea if its double or triple shielded or not even shielded.
its the best one i have atm and it cost me $15 but using a 100% dollar store junk vga cable vs the better one doesn't change the ghosting topic .im temped to mod a vga cable by removing all the external protection so as to separate all the wires in side from one another so as to 100% eliminate cross talk from one wire to the other and or maybe use some custom wire shielding .ill have to get back to you all on this.i have 4 in stock atm and i don't mind making a custom one as a experiment and or if the wire in question in the after math ends up being 2 inch's thick.

thing though and why im really starting to think its a internal problem is that even the {On Screen Display} {OSD} options menu ghosts.
and that's a internal not external video source.
but at 1600x1024 res i can live with with the ghosting .
its not that bad . sadly if i had the anti glare coating you would be hard pressed to even pick up on the problem.
higher res though and it gets worse.
and you cant really pick up on in when gaming so its all good .
i don't mind using lower res for normal computer use.
just means things are bigger and less of a problem to read \ see
none the less its a buger looking at the number 200 and seeing 200 0 0 0 to the right of it

-------------------------------------------------

os used for testing are as follows
win98se custom sp ~ win2000 sp4 ~ winxp pro sp3 ~ windows 7 ultimate

video hardware used for testing is as follows
laptop:
lintel gm915 integrated video

desktops:
Ati rage3d 16meg agp : native vga support
3dfx voodoo3 16meg agp :native vga support
GeForce2 mx 400 32meg asus agp : native vga support
GeForce 5 fx 5600 128 meg agp : native vga support
GeForce 6 6600gt 128 meg asus agp : native vga support
GeForce 9 9800gt {moded to gtx} pci-e 512ram : DVI support only

5 different computers were used for testing
4 different vga cables used in testing
----------------------------------------------------

btw good tips and info thank you ZeosPantera\quantum112
i have 3 DVI Adapters in stock btw and i use passmark MonitorTest my self for this kind of thing http://www.passmark.com/products/monitortest.htm"]http://www.passmark.com/products/monitortest.htm"]http://www.passmark.com/products/monitortest.htm

btw ill try and get a pic with my digital camera soon ..say 24 hours and i should have it .should help people some to know what im talking about and the problem in question doesn't have anything to do with convergence {as far as i know}

-----------------------------------------

for the record Canada\m\37\started with apple2 1978 ~Atari 2600\free lance work at home computer hardware tech with a computer lab like you find at the back of a computer store\bin a server admin~was runing a server\
when i was saying i have computer parts i wasn't joking ^^
just in case someone gets the idea in their head im a computer hardware NoOb or something *winks*

question anyone know how the Initial analog signal processing happens on the Sony FW-900 ?
and i have to disagree with some peoples comment in the past that the Sony FW-900 was made to be serviced .
if it was their be 40 or so venerable resistors and or jumpers\dip switchs to mess with to tune the thing when things get out of whack some.

 

[Reanimation_LP]

Has anyone been able to get an ATI card to do the 2304x1440 resolution via BNC?

My FW900's VGA port when hooked up, it flickers on and off a lot, so I'm guessing its bad.

Sucks going from that resolution to 1920x1200.

 

[cinnamonandgravy]

If YES then that is the issue. I have 3 FW900's and have hooked them all up with several BNC and VGA cables and they all will ghost until you find a "special" DVI adapter. I went through all 5 of mine. 3 ATi Freebee's a mac version and a $12 radio shack version. Only 1 of them gave absolutely no ghosting. It was an old ATi silver unit I believe from my 9500Pro!. I am not sure what why or how but it seems to be a very random crapshoot.

anyone have a dvi to bnc cable - instead of a vga to bnc - and experience this 'ghosting'?

i have probably around 10 dvi-vga converters, so ill definitely give those a try.

ps warzone, im using a thick, heavily shielded monster cable vga cable. not really sure if it helps, but i got it for free. fun thing for me is to use super thick, low gauge aftermarket power cords. i have this blue beast connected to my fw900. again, not even sure if it helps, but it looks damn cool.

 

[christpunchers]

Has anyone been able to get an ATI card to do the 2304x1440 resolution via BNC?

My FW900's VGA port when hooked up, it flickers on and off a lot, so I'm guessing its bad.

Sucks going from that resolution to 1920x1200.

Try this inf. Should give you all the FW900 resolutions. Use it to reinstall your monitor driver.

http://hotfile.com/dl/99499166/9d9ce6b/modmonitor.inf.html

 

[lastmile77]

I've got three systems I'd like to get hooked up to my FW900 and was wondering if this idea would help me avoid using a KVM for the graphics connections.

The first system is just a normal PC. I'd connect it D-sub VGA out to the D-sub connector on the FW900. The other two systems are an SGI Octane and an Octane2. Both SGIs use 13W3 connectors for graphics output. Several Octanes that were part of old Autodesk/Discreet Flame setups have passed through my hands over the years. They used a short cable with just red, green, and blue outputs. I've got several of these cables right now.

I guess this was done so that high quality individual cables could be run to the monitor, which always being a sync-on-green SGI-branded Sony, would have only needed the red, green, and blue signals.

I've seen Y and T BNC connectors and was wondering if I could use them to connect both Octanes to the FW900 at the same time.

Of course only one would be used at a time, but this would allow me pick the D-sub input whenever I wanted to use the PC or the BNC input them I wanted to use one of the SGIs, leaving only the keyboard and mouse connections on the KVM.

 

[Bummrus[H]a]

also, did i read this correctly? without the windas cable, and only the .dll's or whathaveyou, you can adjust geometry among some other things?

No.

 

[Cyberbeing]

Open it, use the 2nd screen (the fully black one). Turn up the monitor brightness and contrast to 100. The screen should be a mid-gray, fully neutral. If your gray looks colored, your black point is off.

Since the black point (color temperature) changes depending on where you have Brightness slider set, doing this as you describe is useless. All this would achieve is having the correct black point with Brightness set to 100...

The proper way would be first setting your brightness to your desired black level. In your normal viewing/lighting conditions, put a black image full-screen, and reduce the brightness until you can no longer see the black getting any blacker. Then, in a pitch-black room if possible, place an image like http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/6058/gray16.png on-screen and adjust the individual color gun brightness/offset (the sun symbol) in Expert mode until it is neutral.

Proceed to re-adjust your white point (D65 should appear as a creamy white) and make your grayscale neutral with individual color gun contrast/gain in Expert mode, you'll need to go back and repeat these steps a few times since they all effect each other.

 

[ZeosPantera]

Im going to be switching monitors again tomorrow so that means its going to be another battle to calibrate it the same as this one, which was a battle to calibrate as well as the SGi previous.

I made these. Not sure if they can really help unless you know what they are suppose to look like.

Pure Black with 15/255 and 5/255 RBG color swatches.


15,15,15 Grey with the exact same swatches as previous


4 Different Grey Levels all containing 3 RGB panes with a 1% inconsistency. You should see all 3 primary colors in all 4 quadrants. (the brightest one is hardest on mine.)

 

[quantum112]

Guys, I found an excellent program which I've been messing with this evening and it has really helped me dial my greyscale in, I think I can say with confidence that this is within 90% accuracy by eye. The more time you spend with it and the better your eyesight is, the better results you can get. But this is the first program I found with such an excellent scale which allows you to really get things right So I thought I would write a guide on it.

Color Calibration and Gamma Correction

1. Before proceeding any further, reset any video correction tools (including options in your drivers) in Windows to adapter defaults - or better yet, remove them. I will include a suggested software to use near the end of this guide.

2. Increase brightness to 90, and contrast to 100. Enter the monitor menu. Navigate to Color > Easy. Perform an Image restoration. Reduce brightness to previous level.

3. Acquire Colorimeter HCFR software from link, install and run it.

4. At the first screen, simply click cancel. We do not need any of the colorimeter options.

5. Note the menu on the top, navigate to Advanced > Patterns. Select Black level test. Reduce your brightness until you can barely, and just barely see the last bar (farthest to the left on the top screen, and farthest to the right on the bottom screen). Close this test pattern.

6. Open the test pattern All color shading. On this pattern you will find 10 gradations of each of the primary additive colors (Red, Green, Blue). These colors, blending at their maximum intensity, will create white, and at zero intensity, they will equal black. Any gradations in between will form varying shades of gray. This gradation from black to white is called the grayscale. To achieve a perfect grayscale, each of the three primary colors must always be of equal intensity at each of the varying points. In the scenario that any of these colors is of a higher intensity than the others, the grayscale will have discoloration, and as such no image will be reproduced accurately. Hardware calibrators can achieve perfectly neutral gray with excellent accuracy. While we can't be that precise by eye, you can get some pretty good results depending on how much time you spend on it.

7. Make sure that you can see the lower end of both scales, if you cannot, you have set your black level (brightness) too low.

8. Now, observe the bottom end of the scale where each of the 3 colors are at their darkest point. Do you notice any color being brighter than the other? If so, you will either need to reduce the intensity of that color or increase the intensities of the other two colors.

The control that determines the brightness in the bottom end of the scale for each color is called the Bias or Cutoff.

"RGB LowEnd: The control used to adjust the amount of individual Red, Green, or Blue colour in the darker end of the black to white scale. Think of it as an individual brightness control for each colour. Manufacturers all use a different name for this control though 'Cut', 'Cutoff' and 'Bias' are the most common terms used. I will refer to this control as 'RGBLowEnd' in this guide to avoid any confusion. " *

In my case, the color Green was noticeably brighter than the other two colors in the final patch. The solution was either to bump the Bias of the other two colors up, or reduce the green one down. Because I needed quite a bit of bias difference to match the colors equally (~60 spread) I decided to do a bit of both. The Bias settings I ended up with so far are R 83, G 23, B 65.

9. Unfortunately, reducing Bias or low-end this much for one color will inevitably darken the color somewhat at it's brightest point as well, causing Green to be of a lower maximum intensity than the other two colors in my case. The intensity at the brightest point is controlled by the Gain or Drive control.

"RGB HighEnd: The control used to adjust the amount of individual Red, Green, or Blue colour in the lighter end of the black to white scale. Think of it as an individual contrast control for each colour. Manufacturers all use a different name for this control though 'Drive' and 'Gain' are the most common terms used. I will refer to this control as 'RGBHighEnd' in this guide just to avoid any confusion. " *

Seeing as these two controls interact somewhat, you will often have to go back and forth between them for each color in order to achieve equal brightness of colors at each of the steps in intensity. The more time you spend with this, the better the results. Feel free to try the range of the Bias and Gain settings (watching a single color get brighter/darker in comparison to the others) to get a *feel* for when it is just about equally bright.

To sum up, use Bias to match the colors on the darker end of the scale, and use Gain to match the colors on the lighter end of the scale.

This can be somewhat hard to do because the human eye is a relatively inaccurate tool for measuring brightness of different colors. Green, in particular, tends to always look the brightest, while blue tends to look the darkest.

10. You can check the result of your work against the B&W pattern, and each of the individual full-screen colors R, G, B, C, M, Y under the Colors test patterns to see if they are of approximately equal intensity.

If everything is correct, the grayscale will look "right" and each color will be more or less equally bright. If you notice a tint to the darker areas of the grayscale you will have some intensity variation in the bottom range of the colors. Tweak the Bias to fix this.

If you notice a tint to the white and light grays you will have some intensity variation in the top range of colors. Tweak the Gain to fix this.

11. Gamma correction.

"Most graphics display monitors, particularly cathode ray tubes, exhibit a non-linear response function with respect to input voltage. In most cases, this response function follows a "power law," meaning that the output luminance is proportional to the input signal raised to some power, or gamma."**

This means that a CRT monitor, when given an input signal that is 50% of maximum voltage, will not necessarily make the concerning pixels 50% bright.

Because of this, gamma correction is needed, as otherwise, the midtones will appear too dark, and no image on your monitor will be displayed as intended.

For more information on gamma, visit this excellent site:

Monitor Calibration and Gamma by Norman Koren

There are several ways to apply gamma correction on a PC, one of them being in your video card driver software. Unfortunately, many games have the tendency of overwriting any Brightness/Contrast/Gamma settings with their own which means that a good portion of the time your adjustments simply will not apply, as the Video card software does a fairly poor job of actually enforcing these settings.

For this purpose, the best program for the task I have found so far is PowerStrip, which you can obtain on this link. It is shareware, but functions perfectly fine nevertheless.

Once you have installed PowerStrip, right click its icon in the taskbar. Navigate to Color Profiles > Configure.

You should be greeted by a screen that is similar to this:



As we can see, the gamma ramp is linear and no gamma correction is being applied in the video card Look-up Table (LUT). This means the picture we are seeing is not reproduced accurately.

The standard for Windows and the sRGB color space is a gamma of 2.2.

How to adjust your monitor to the specified gamma? It is actually quite easy. Using a test image such as the one here:

Gamma 2.2 Test Image

The goal here is to make the colors inside and around the boxes blend in with the background as seamlessly as possible. If you are currently not applying any gamma correction you should be able to see them fairly easily.

Simply increase the Gamma correction setting in PowerStrip until the colors are the least visible. Move the setting left and right a few times to get a feel for the changes, then set it to the one that produces the best results.

For me, the ideal setting ends up at around 1,25 - 1,30.

-Gamma correction done right

Due to the fact that gamma will affect Black level slightly, feel free to re-adjust it lower to the Black level test pattern in HCFR.

As you can see, proper Gamma allows you to achieve a better black level while making the midtones of the image more accurate. Great, right?

You can then save this setting as a profile, and assign a key to it in PowerStrip with the little key icon under Profiles. Map it to something easily accessible such as Ctrl-Alt-1. That way you can easily reapply the profile should a game overwrite your settings.

That's it. Provided you have given your best to adjust each of these picture elements as good as possible, you should now have a pretty accurate picture on your monitor. Switching between the "Easy" preset under Color and the "Expert" one which I have tweaked I can easily see the color being way more neutral and accurate, primarily getting rid of the nasty green overtone that the entire picture was having due to a severely skewed Green bias.

The real solution to this problem would be to use WinDAS in combination with these test patterns and a hardware color calibrator to re-adjust the monitor to proper specs, however if you cannot (yet) afford one, this will do very well as a quick "patch-up" solution to improve the viewing quality of your monitor.

I am not an expert on this subject and have written this guide only from the knowledge I have gained through online reading and experimenting, therefore if you notice anything incorrect or have questions, let me know and I will correct/answer them.

Hope this has helped you!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* - Source: Greyscale & Color Calibration for Dummies, CurtPalme HT Forum
** - Source: Monitor Gamma Correction

 

[War Zone]

found this out on the net.
im still in research mode and the digital camera battery pack is charging "i hope" with my home made changer

I just brought home a big o' 21" viewsonic P815 monitor. It didn’t have the monitor cable, so I used a crappy one I had. I’m noticing a lot of odd “shadow” effects, especially with black text on a white background- the text is clear, but there’s a very light grey echo to the right of it, then a lighter echo to the right of that, and so on. It reminds me of cable "ghosting." My question: is it a cable problem or a monitor problem?

Most manufacturers are taking the connectors (BNC and DB-15) off the monitor all together and permanently attaching the cable to the monitor. By doing this they can solder the cable wires directly to the video amplifier board inside the monitor, effectively eliminating any chance of impedance miss match on the monitor end from a connector. An added benefit to a permanently attached cable is, you will never loose it, should you move your system. In any scheme there are trade off. The trade off in permanently attaching the cable is that if the cable should go bad, you need to send the entire unit in for service. My experience says that occasionally cables do break, but the failure rate of cables is very low.

Even if you use a BNC cable, the end that attaches to the video card is still the VGA DB-15. The impedance mismatch at that end of the cable can cause the same types of ghosting affect. If both sides had BNC connections then there would be some improvement. Someone much wiser than I said, it doesn?t make sense to anchor a bridge in concrete on one side and tree vines on the other.

The echo you're seeing is called ringing. It's caused by the signal bouncing back and forth in the cable, which in turn is caused by an impedance mismatch between your crappy cable and the VGA outputs and inputs you're plugging it into. It's got nothing to do with external interference.

If you get yourself a cable that actually meets VGA specs, the problem should go away. In the meantime, you should be able to make it somewhat less noticeable by lowering your display's refresh rate to the slowest you can stand; the frequency of the ringing and hence the time between peaks is fixed by the length of your cable, and at lower refresh rates, the ringing peaks will appear closer together on the screen.

ok ok ok i hear what your all saying ..cable cable cable .ok ok work in progress.
tested the monitor in question with a Matrox 2meg pci card today just for the hell of it with the vga cables i have in stock .
cant seem to be able to find my Matrox g450 32meg agp i use to have around here somewhere .
don't know were it went oo well whatever
anyways no luck same deal with the 2meg pci card.
little bit less ghosting though at 1024x768.
hard to tell though seeing as heat seems to affect monitor as it warms up and the ghosting effect some.

and for no apparent reason i just had to put a 3Dfx pic at the end of my post so you can all Froth at the mouth over it and call me a spammer or something

edit
took the pic .sorry its only .jpg so it looks like junk .
the hardware im using cant take .bmp or something and the digital camera in question is old .
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=sdocyf&s=7

re-sized image and it worked out decent.oo well

 

[cinnamonandgravy]

YES! warzone that is exactly the problem i have!

perfect picture of the issue.

 

[CoolColJ]

It's a cable issue, or interference into the cable. EM and magentic fields etc

Get a better cable or try and move it around.
A thick VGA cable with filter pods one either end will help

 

[mathesar]

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=sdocyf&s=7

I didn't have that problem with my FW900 & VGA (used the vga cable that came with the monitor) but I do remember the BNC connections needed to be really tight otherwise I'd see similar ghosting.

Every once in awhile I had to twist on one of the BNC connections to make it go away. I eventually switched back to VGA because of it, I couldn't really tell a difference in quality between VGA / BNC although I never went above 1920x1200 resolution.

 

[Cyberbeing]

This issue being brought up again, reminds me of posts made by SH1 and Surly73 in an old thread about the F520.

Had the ghosting problem, but with the BNC connection. Fixed it by replacing the BNC assembly inside the monitor.

(This should only be done with extreme caution, however, due to the potentially lethal voltages within computer monitors...)

I think I have a lead on this, since I was poking around in my "spare" -F520 tonight. I don't have any pics yet.

The interface module, with the HD15 and BNC connectors on it, has two edge connectors on the bottom. Physically this module is supported by clipping onto the rear ground shield and accepting two screws. More screws go through this module when the full ground cage is attached.

The edge connectors are looser than I'd like, especially considering the frequencies involved. When assembled, these edge connectors are rocked back and forth slightly by wiggling any of the input connectors or the power connector.

I've put some stabilant-22-clone contact enhancer on the male and female connectors in this location. I don't yet have any bright ideas to mechanically stabilize the area.

I don't know if the -FW900 has this problem, or if it is constructed in the same manner.

 

[War Zone]

k you people set me on the right path ..ty .

i did a round of wire \ ground cleaning in side the monitor in question .the grounding wires and were they connect oxidized over time.
-75% less ghosting .
you really have to look for it now to pick up on it and if i still had the anti glare coating you would really be hard pressed to pick up on it seeing as the anti glare coating is at the same time like a pair of sun glasses and its tinted just about the same colors as the clone ghost images.
really at this point the horizontal lines from the fact that this is a aperture grill monitor is more annoying lol.
ps shadow mask based crt is the only way to go imho sadly none was ever made in 24" wide screen.

hybrid shadow mask stile is even better but the glory days of crt were over by then and no more killer crt's were made with it as far as i know .
hybrid stile shadow mask is only found in 17~19" crts "best guess" and can do more or less what a aperture grill monitor crt can with out the horizontal lines garbage.

their all so ONE Ground not even being used on the {A BOARD} that connects to the vga and BNC connections
i wonder were it gos and why it isn't being used.

ill do a better job on this topic soon and get back to you all with maybe a pic or two so that if anyone besides me has a problem on the fw-900 topic and funky ghosting what has been discussed here so far will be of some help to them .

that's only good forum netiquette

ps don't mind the fact that theirs a gf2 mx 200 in the pic .
i have a massive garbage bag of computer parts were im at .
my main rig is a Intel core 2 e5200 2500@4000mgz 1.36v water cooled {highest tested speed 4300mgz 1.5v vcore} with a BFG 9800gt 600@680mgz {custom heat sink} winxp pro sp3
{win7\vista can go suck my left nut}
christ their not even a file search in win7 . its worse on that topic then win 3.11 for searching for files ! like wtf

btw only payed $40 Canadian tax free for the fw-900 *winks*

 

[shinzwei]

I had the same problem with ghosting. I bought a DVI-->SVGA cable from monoprice with gold plating and the ghosting is non existent. Playing Black Ops at 2304x1440 is awesome