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24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

idd ddu again and yank the 980, see if you can get hdmi going on the 3080, then put 980 back in.
 
I'm looking for advice on resurfacing the glass on one of these (specifically I have an IBM P260, but it's a Trinitron from the same era so I assume the AG and glass is the same).

This monitor started out with a AG filter that was very speckled, although not very scratched. It looked extremely bad in use, so I decided to remove it.

Initially I tried to remove it with IPA, which didn't work very well. I switched to a 3000 grit 3M Trizact sanding disc. This removed the AG and seemed to work decently well, but left the glass somewhat hazy. Usability was pretty decent, but the haze reduced sharpness.

To address this, I polished it with a felt rotary pad and cerium oxide. Unfortunately, it seems that this revealed thousands of micro scratches that were presumably made by the sanding disc, and I ended up with a horrible rainbow effect on the display. (Every micro scratch lights up like a rainbow when the display is white.)

I decided to go back to the drawing board and bought some diamond lapping paste and more felt pads. This seems to be removing the micro scratches, but it is SOOO slow. I spent a good hour going at it with 600 grit paste, and while I see improvement, there is a long way to go.

Looking for any suggestions on a better way to do this. I searched around but didn't find much here.
 
Well, it wasn't very wise to do what you did in the first place. The P260 has its AR filter deposited on a PET film which is stuck on the tube. The correct way to remove it was to remove the bezel, and then unstick the film.

Now, how to rectify this ? I really don't know if this is even possible. Wearing out the front glass isn't smart at all, and depending how far you went, it may be dangerous, with a risk of the tube imploding ...
 
Strat_84 said:
Well, it wasn't very wise to do what you did in the first place. The P260 has its AR filter deposited on a PET film which is stuck on the tube. The correct way to remove it was to remove the bezel, and then unstick the film.

Now, how to rectify this ? I really don't know if this is even possible. Wearing out the front glass isn't smart at all, and depending how far you went, it may be dangerous, with a risk of the tube imploding ...
Click to expand...
Sure wasn't!

I have removed the bezel, and while it sort of looks like there is a film applied, after consideration I believed that it was just where the glass had been cut.

But wow, after your comment I tried with plastic scraper tool to remove it and it started to come off! I guess I've just been polishing that film the whole time....

I didn't come anywhere close to sanding through it, so the glass underneath should be just fine.

Is there a current recommendation for a replacement film?

Thanks again.
 
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Polishing a plastic film, that's a good joke. :LOL:

But I'm glad for you the issue wasn't more serious than that. Now regarding a proper replacement film, this is a problem that has never really been overcome, hence the advice to avoid removing that film unless it is critically damaged.
 
Strat_84 said:
Polishing a plastic film, that's a good joke. :LOL:

But I'm glad for you the issue wasn't more serious than that. Now regarding a proper replacement film, this is a problem that has never really been overcome, hence the advice to avoid removing that film unless it is critically damaged.
Click to expand...

Ah gee. Is there any good way to take scratches out of the film itself? If not I suppose I'll just try it out bare and see how it is. I have another P260 that still has its AG surface in good condition, so if this one isn't perfect it will be alright. (I'm not entirely sure how much the film is still doing for AG or contrast at this point anyways, as the surface coatings have certainly been removed.)
 
Any reason you didn't try stepping up sandpaper grit?
I think there are films for polishing fiber optics well above 3000 grit.
Idk if it'd work, but you can probably find assortments in small quantities
 
christpunchers said:
Delock 62967 has a few cons. The connector is flimsy. So you’ll need to find a way to rubber band the VGA output to the VGA cable so it doesn’t fall apart in use.

Also I’ve found the adapter to cause the screen to dim for a second. But this happens only once every week or so.

Now the pros: the 62967 is much sharper than the Delock adapters 87685 hub, Sunix DPU3000, and even the LK7112.

On a well maintained and well-calibrated FW900, the 62967’s sharpness and PQ (color gradient, gamma gradient) is amazing. The text clarity is almost on par with a good LCD.

But the 62967 will top out around 72hz at 2304x1440 (the FW900’s official max resolution). But even at 72hz, the flickering feels minimal and everything just looks crisp and looks right.

I’d rate the DPU3000 and its variant from Delock a 7/10. They tend to look blurry once you go to higher resolutions and refresh rates. And they freak out at certain resolutions and have more intermittent screen flickering than the 62967. The Delock 62967 is like a 9.25/10. Only downside is the occasional “blinking” and a lower pixel clock than the DPU3000.
Click to expand...
I know I’m replying to a much older post but just wanted to say the Delock 62967 connector is a bit of a PITA but can easily be fixed. They added too much plastic/rubber to the connector. So it doesn’t always lock in all the way in the DP socket on the graphics card. This will cause all sorts of issues from flickering to losing signal randomly. If you take an exacto knife and trim about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch of the plastic from around where the connector base is it will completely lock in place and usually fix most issues people had with them. Both of mine were this way. After trimming the plastic/rubber they both lock in place now.
I never had any issues with the VGA port luckily.
 
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Hey guys! I picked up an FW900 with seemingly high G2 voltage (Green Screen and Retrace Lines) and it wont stay on long enough for me to adjust G2 voltage down via windas. It displays the no source images just fine on both input 1 and 2. When sending video from my PC it shuts off and the orange led blinks roughly every second. I soldered a wire from pin 16 of IC406 to ground and doing so made the fw900 not output an image (I've seen posts about this lowering G2) but it still shuts down when sending video signal from PC. Any ideas?
 
Yes, I have one suggestion: if you don't know what you're doing, stop torturing that poor innocent piece of hardware.
Grounding pin 16 of IC406 to lower G2, seriously ? Did you even bother to have a look at the service manual to realize how senseless this is ? It wouldn't be surprising if you shot the 12V power supply doing so by the way, well played. (y)
 
Whoa it's been 6 years since I last visited this thread.

I'm moving and due to space limitations, I'd looking to sell my FW900. It's in great shape, includes the original antiglare, and was manufactured in Nov 2023. I last calibrated (WinDAS and all) a few years ago and colors still looking perfect. Convergence in corners needs a tiny bit of touch up, which I'll probably do this week (but I bet after carrying it around in a car it will need to be re-adjusted anyway).

Update: I touched up the convergence by DCNV and it's basically perfect now. And checked the colors/white point balance by an i1display pro, also basically perfect, dE < 2 for all grayscale.

Pictures: (full res at https://ibb [dot] co/album/vhCPc1 )
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Video:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Lh1MCdf7yA

The only flaws to this unit are:
1. Antiglare film has two tiny nicks near the top right corner and bottom edge. The anti-reflective top layer of the film is very slightly worn near the center, but it's unnoticeable unless you stare at a black screen in a bright room.
2. Base has a crack, so you need to be careful lifting and setting it down. It swivels and tilts perfectly fine.
3. Some corners have slightly worn paint, some stickers aren't removed, etc.

Other than that it seems to be perfect and probably has plenty of life left to it. I only used it myself for a couple months since 2023, and I believe the previous owner used it quite lightly too.

If anyone's interested, message me here. I have it listed on eBay for $4000 and I'll consider any offers. Local pickup strongly preferred. I live in South Bend, Indiana, and I can drive a bit to meet people from Illinois or Michigan.
 
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flod you might consider listing it on r/crtgaming and/or the faceboook CRT collective group.

You could basically name your price on this one.

Too bad you have to let it go. I take it this your last CRT? Or do you still have a nice 21" one or something?
 
Yep it's unfortunate but tbh, it was mostly sitting in my closet the last few years. I just checked the color and white point calibration and it's still excellent... essentially no drift after years of storage. Also I forget if this means anything, but the G2 value is set to 141 (I vaguely recall that higher/lower G2 values on a calibrated monitor has some correlation to the monitor's age?)

I still have a 21in cpd-g520p somewhere in my parents' storage. No idea what condition it's in now.
 
From this Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/1000575049...play-in-the-league-i-was-in/4005541029541660/

His wife also updated his FB profile a few years ago to share a posthumous book published of wildlife photographs he took.

I was really saddened to hear the news.

I know some of you guys over the years have had your disagreements with Vito (and I wondered if he was cagey at times because how people scammed him on eBay ages ago), but he seemed like a genuinely decent guy (at least from the private conversations I had with him) and eager to help people. His passing is a huge loss to the CRT community IMO.

It's hard not to think of the legendary FW900 without also thinking of Unkle Vito.
 
Wow, had no idea he was a jetsetting around the world photographing beautiful birds(found him on Facbeook as Luis Alberto Grunauer). What a lovely all around guy. With a hobby like that still made the time pop in here and give free technical advice. He's basically saved dozens if not hundreds of CRT monitors through that advice

Rest in Peace
 
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