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1090T IHS Removal

M

markpaper

n00b
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
29
I was wondering if its safe to remove IHS from the phenom 1090T.
I have noticed that my temps has gone up quite high lately.
Has anyone in here done this before?
And if it has a cheap tim underneath or has gone bad i want to replace it and hopefully that will fix my issue.
I am guessing that this is the problem that i have.
 
its never "safe" but not hard to do. just take a thin knife like a box cutter or something thin with a handle so you have some grip. this will allow you to use some pressure. just try to cut the glue not the pcb. dont put your cutter in to deep you have a chance of cutting something you dont want cut!!

ask around i have no clue what to glue it back on with.
also use only non conductive tim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I have the same heat problem, but isn't IHS removal a bit too drastic and risky? For myself, i chose a more conservative approach. I ordered Thermaltake 1600rpm fans, to replace my slow 1000 rpm case fans during summer. Just an idea...
 
I'd not advise that unless you have explored other options.
What cooler/case are you using? What thermal paste?
How is the airflow in the case? Are you overclocking etc etc
 
Mr Spocko said:
I'd not advise that unless you have explored other options.
What cooler/case are you using? What thermal paste?
How is the airflow in the case? Are you overclocking etc etc
Click to expand...

this.

de-lidding your 1090 would be the last thing you try.
remounting your heatsink with new TIM would be the first.

between that, changing fans over with better ones, adding new case fans & maybe a fan controller.

you need to consider the ambient temperature. during warmer months, you CPU clock might not be able to cope as well as in the winter months.

if you've got the balls to attempt the procedure (it is the H forum after all), just be aware it's not like you could pick up a replacement that easily. when the Vishera drops (providing you have a AM3+ MB) and actually shows some a performance advantage over the old thuban x6's, might feel safer cracking the top off. in case you make a mess of things, you could always purchase a FX8350 to swap out with.
 
Just because you can remove the IHS on a some ivy bridge chips,doesn't mean all chips are that easy.

If I remember correctly,in order to remove the IHS from a phenom II,you need a blow torch to heat the solder that is used to join the die to the IHS,there is no TIM under there to be replaced.

if you are seeing your temps rise,the first thing I would suspect is higher than normal ambient temperatures,then I would clean your heatsink or maybe buy another one if you are using the stock cooler.There are alot of factors that you should take into account before even thinking about removing the IHS of any processor,let alone one that is soldered to the die.


I really can't believe some people,offering advice on how to remove the IHS of this chip and not having a damn clue on the actual process involved.The amount of misinformation being touted as fact lately is just astonishing.
 
I have only 4 cores enabled at 3.6 GHz to keep it cool, 1.28 volts only and already hitting 46c degrees

Temp.jpg
 
StewieTheGreat said:
Just because you can remove the IHS on a some ivy bridge chips,doesn't mean all chips are that easy.

If I remember correctly,in order to remove the IHS from a phenom II,you need a blow torch to heat the solder that is used to join the die to the IHS,there is no TIM under there to be replaced.

if you are seeing your temps rise,the first thing I would suspect is higher than normal ambient temperatures,then I would clean your heatsink or maybe buy another one if you are using the stock cooler.There are alot of factors that you should take into account before even thinking about removing the IHS of any processor,let alone one that is soldered to the die.


I really can't believe some people,offering advice on how to remove the IHS of this chip and not having a damn clue on the actual process involved.The amount of misinformation being touted as fact lately is just astonishing.
Click to expand...

This !!! I believe there's an excellent chance the IHS is soldered. I wouldn't touch or otherwise destroy that chip.
 
markpaper said:
I have only 4 cores enabled at 3.6 GHz to keep it cool, 1.28 volts only and already hitting 46c degrees
Click to expand...

If you have high ambient temperature, that's normal. The coolers can't do miracles if the surrounding air isn't helping. All the fabulous cooler reviews are usually made with 20-25c ambient temperature. Go to 30C and it's a complete different story. Mine, without oc, was hitting 54C at summer and with Scythe Rasetsu it hit 56C. Despite having 4 case fans.

Also check the temperature of your VGA. It's a big source of heat, which makes the task of the CPU cooler more difficult, since the hot air from VGA rises to the CPU area. My VGA has passive cooler, which on hot days was showing 50C.

EDIT: If you are paranoid about going near 50C and you prefer more cores, you can downclock. Try something like 6 cores at 2500Mhz voltage 1,175-1,18v. Works for me... With high heat (32C+ ambient), the CPU was 46C.
 
Faethon said:
If you have high ambient temperature, that's normal. The coolers can't do miracles if the surrounding air isn't helping. All the fabulous cooler reviews are usually made with 20-25c ambient temperature. Go to 30C and it's a complete different story. Mine, without oc, was hitting 54C at summer and with Scythe Rasetsu it hit 56C. Despite having 4 case fans.

Also check the temperature of your VGA. It's a big source of heat, which makes the task of the CPU cooler more difficult, since the hot air from VGA rises to the CPU area. My VGA has passive cooler, which on hot days was showing 50C.
Click to expand...

Well currently i have 29c room temp. :p
So you think my temps are ok?
I am thinking to replace the noctua fans on the cooler with higher rpm fans.
But keep in mind that i only have 4 cores enabled.
 
markpaper said:
Well currently i have 29c room temp. :p
So you think my temps are ok?
I am thinking to replace the noctua fans on the cooler with higher rpm fans.
But keep in mind that i only have 4 cores enabled.
Click to expand...

I think for 29C your temperatures are fine. Even if you enable the other 2, you shouldn't exceed 50C. Also keep in mind that Prime95 is unusually heat generating. I do x264 encoding, which uses 100% CPU all the time and i can tell you that it doesn't generate the heat that Prime95 does. I doubt games can match Prime95's heat generation either. So, your "everyday" max temperature, will most likely be lower than the one you get from Prime95.

Personally, i use Prime95 for stability. But as a measure of temperature, i use x264, since, on my PC, nothing else is more hard on the CPU, although i am not a gamer (i only play few games now and then). So, don't panic from Prime95's high temperatures. Your "real life" max temperature will probably be 4C lower than the one of Prime.
 
you should monitor all your temps,but core temps are what really matter since they are taken from the cores on the chip,the CPU temp is usually from a sensor in the socket area,thuban is good up into the 70's but I always shoot for under 55C prime/F@H load.
 
You can also use a painter's heat gun to melt the solder binding the IHS to the CPU core, at least that's what I read online. Should be easier than a blowtorch. But first try reapplying the thermal paste, installing the cooler again with good contact, other simple things. It's very unlikely that the connection with the IHS suddenly got compromised and messed up your temperature.
 
Don't complain lots of Ivy Bridge users wish their cpu's were soldered and not using cheap TIM
I would get an oversized cooler (lots of choices) and use some "good" thermal paste.
 
markpaper said:
Well currently i have 29c room temp. :p
So you think my temps are ok?
I am thinking to replace the noctua fans on the cooler with higher rpm fans.
But keep in mind that i only have 4 cores enabled.
Click to expand...

How does the TIM spread pattern look, or have you checked to make sure the HS is making good contact?
 
markpaper said:
Is that for sure though that i should only monitor the core temps instead of the cpu?
Click to expand...

yeah the core temp or the '10+ CPU thermal sensor' (read from HWiNFO64) is the one you need to worry about. the CPU or socket temp, not so much. the CPU/socket temp is difficult to cool unless there is a cut-out in the motherboard tray. if it does worry you and you have the cut-out, could always mount a fan behind the tray.

it known that the core temp isn't very accurate at idle tho at load it's supposed to be very accurate. have a read of the thread below, it discusses the temperature phenomenon is some detail.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I guess i will have to figure this one out.
I know its very warm here where i live during the summer.
I will replace the NF-P12 on the cooler with NF-F12 fans and see how things turns out.
Any suggestions for fans? These noctua fans i am planing to buy are a bit expensive.
 
Step 1. Fit intake fan on front or side of case.

Step 2. Attach tumble dryer/vent hose from window to case.

Step 3. Marvel at your computers temps dropping.

Step 4. Increase your parts lifespan and or overclock for free.

:D
 
Hagrid said:
How does the TIM spread pattern look, or have you checked to make sure the HS is making good contact?
Click to expand...

How can i tell if the HS is making good contact? Is there any good guide for that?
How does a good spread pattern look like?
I am using arctic silver 5 by the way and i apply the dot method.
Well i tighten those screws on the damn heat sink quite well.
 
There's better & safer TIM to use nowadays than AC5.

That being said. I have had an IHS come unsoldered on me before.The chip was never overheated, no crazy overclocks. It just broke it's bond with the die. Had to RMA the chip. If it wasn't under warranty, I would have delidded it.

Your temps look fine though. How old is your cooler. Maybe it is starting to loose its efficiency. I have a Xigmatek 1283 that seems to be cooling worse & worse these days. Re-applying TIM doesn't help. Better fan doesn't help. Maybe it's just metal fatigue in the heatpipes themselves. Jagged edges in a metal structure are where structural failures occur & heatpipes are loaded with them inside. I could see heat cycling over time affecting this structure easily. Just a thought.
 
I removed the IHS on an old phenom 2 (dead) a few weeks ago and I can confirm that there is solder on the die itself. I ended up ripping the die off the PCB and making a mess. Be very careful if this chip isn't already destine for the scrape heap.
 
You should have no reason to remove the IHS so I would look at the heatsink/fan combination.
AS5 is good no question, but I prefer the Gelid and MX stuff myself no cure time performance as good if not a little better.
 
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