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Aww. I wanted that 8800GTX. :{

I'm looking for a s775 motherboard - preferably something capable of a bit of overclocking. I don't need anything fancy - a single video card slot and DDR2 is fine, though four memory slots would be strongly preferred.

I just bought an e8400. I figure I'll overclock it to 3.6-4ghz, and enjoy the single-threaded excellence. So long as you're running badly-coded programs, it's as fast as a top-spec i7.

Bamp!

From what I understand, the i7 simply slaughters the x6 in consumer applications like photoshop or gaming. It's only when you approach it from an enterprise perspective that it can match or exceed the i7. This is all well and good, but I don't really care about widescale number-crunching - all...

How far can I upgrade from? So far, I've been using an old Win98 CD as the base for all my "Upgrades."

Can't friggin' believe I missed this....

Still accepting offers!

I need a new motherboard, RAM, and PSU. I have an e2180 I'd like to overclock to only 2.4ghz or so (not exactly record-breaking), but I don't want garbage either.

I recently started playing around with a Roland plotter/cutter, some vinyl sticker material, and a sandblaster. By covering parts of the glass with the sticker, and sandblasting, I can get some nifty etching without the nasty acids. Of course, you could just use duct tape and a knife instead of...

Sounds good to me!

There is no way, no how I'd be buying an Aegia for my rig. (The fact that it's a Thinkpad X40 with a 1ghz CPU may be related to this.) Seriously, though, this might save the PPU's butt - an aplication so mind-bogglingly physics-oriented that you'd have to have a Cray to run it without one.

The Mac Pro 8-way seems to be a pretty darn good idea. Because Apple has complete control over both the OS and hardware, OSX will likely have far greater ability to take advantage of all 8 cores than PC hardware and Vista would. (It can't be any harder than that AltiVec mess.) While not...

You have to consider, though, that Via's chipsets are very simple. Simple chipsets = small boards = smaller laptops. Also, the power use is far lower than Intel's best.

I would not do that. Instead, you could either use an old-fashioned switch, or add an op-amp to use as a comparator, and a relay to turn on the CCFLs. If you're worried about fire, I would simply put the inverters in a small metal "project box" from radio shack.

I'll take your word for it. I might try the fast approach, though - I'm machining pretty large pieces of copper. Actually, I have a drill press. I'm not quite that desperate. I have noticed the holes are a bit big, though. Any suggestions for cheap drillbits that might do the job?

Not really, no. All I have is crappy drill bits from the hardware store. I've been using 3-in-1 oil liberally, and it seems to help a bit.

Any tricks for making the holes? Nine times out of ten, copper snaps drillbits that small no matter how much oil you use. And how do you clamp something that precisely?

I'm looking to build a few amplifier enclosures, a lot like these: http://vikash.info/audio/chipamp-lm3886/ I have copper bar stock, and I'm looking to get the heatsinks. However, I'm still trying to figure out how I'm supposed to tap those tiny little holes into the ends of the aluminum...

So are IBM's massive monsters of supercomputers. Let's hope that VIA does well with the C7 - it's not a top performer, but if was used in a mass-produced machine, it could shave down the price of a PC to the point where anyone could afford one.

I use a 1ghz Pentium M in my laptop. It's plenty fast for me. A C7D would rock, especially if it was combined with Via's low-power chipsets and an LED-based screen.

My ThinkPad is @#$@#4ing awesome. However, I would like it even more if it were thinner, lighter, cheaper, and had better battery life - all possibilities with the C7-ULV. It's currently only used in "UMPCs" - they commonly have six-plus hour battery life, and with a larger still battery and 12"...

I'd go for an M-audio USB or FireWire card, personally - PCI cards can sometimes pick up "system fuzz". Regardless, M-audio does have compatibility with just about everything, from Cubase to ProTools, and it's not too expensive. MOTU also makes nice stuff, except that you will likely need to...

I'm a "DIY audio" enthusiast, and while I'm actually not bad at metalworking, it seems stupid to spend three hours on an amplifier and four hours on the box for it. An example of something that might work is here: http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/t-amp_tweaks_e.html That said, just about...

A dual-core C7D is a decent performer, and Via's chipsets are very easy to implement. $400 is a bit much, but at $250-$300 (I can do this with off-the-shelf parts) it's not a bad deal at all.

I'm the proud owner of an IBM Thinkpad X40. To put it bluntly, the exact same functionality (and linux compatibility - go via!) could be produced with one CPU (ULV Via C7) and a single-IC chipset. As a result, it would be much cheaper (far less parts - and they're cheaper, too!) and use less...

Amplification is cheap. Apexjr sells a decent-enough 2x 25w amplifier module for $30 with power transformer. Parts Express does have some nice stuff, but you're better off starting from scratch - the enclosures are nastily pricey, and pre-made crossovers are always inferior (and usually more...

I'd use Amarok if it would'nt bork when I try to play Mp3s.

I'm a DIY nut. (You know you've been thinking about speaker parts too long when you can not only identify the parts used in those Swans, but you also know how much they cost and where they're sold.) I reccomend any of the projects from zaphaudio.com - they're all free, they're all...

DIY for the win! Build a pair of these for the left and right channels: http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker13.html And build 3 of these for the rear channels and center channel: http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html If you use a single sheet of MDF for all of them and can...

Bump!

Or build the suckers yourself. $800 speakers often have $100 worth of parts in 'em.

Get a RCA L/R male to to 1/8" (headphone) female adapter from RadioShack, and take the line output from the TV. If the TV has no line out....well, it's a very odd TV indeed.

I'm one of those "audiophile" wackos. But, if you're willing to spend some time, you cannot beat these for raw pwnage-for-the-dollar. http://zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker13.html Parts should cost under $100/pr. Alternately, get a pair of old Realistic Minimus 7ws (about $40 shipped on...

Actually, RCA ("line level") cables have a different impeadance for wire and connectors than S/PDIF - I think the former is 65 ohms and the latter is 75 ohms. Impeadance should not be confused with resistance...they're different. Mismatched cable = signal loss. Digital interfaces will work...

Go for a shielded cable. Trust me, it's worth it. I use a pair of RadioShack shielded RCA's (cost me $0.50 at a garage sale), and find they work much better than the cheaper (free) RCA's I used before them - much less background noise.

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Nice laptop. I own an X40 - got it on fleabay for $650.

Bump for home audio!