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In the past two months, I've lost two 3TB hard drives due to power issues. One had a fried PCB due a PC PSU blowing out. The other had a fried PCB due to me attaching the wrong power brick into an external drive enclosure. So it seems to me a RAID 1 configuration where both drives are fed...

I've seen ones with integrated PSUs that are these 4+ drive RAID monster enclosures. I just want a simple single drive non-RAID NAS with an integrated PSU like my old Linkstation. The new Linkstations have switched to the annoying bricks. :(

Would never buy any other drive other than HGST nowadays. Love my 4TB. But I hear the NAS versions are loud and hot according to NewEgg.

I had a bad experience with an external drive, plugging in the wrong power brick and frying all the PCBs inside. I'd like to buy a NAS enclosure to replace it, but don't want another annoying power brick. I have an old Bufallo LinkStation that has an integrated power supply, so a normal...

Ok... what if I get another router with a special DMZ port, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ER6020-Gigabit-Dual-WAN-Balance/dp/B00A8NWU70/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376695936&sr=8-3&keywords=dmz+port+router Then I set this new router's static IP address to be the DMZ address in the...

How does that help me if only one specific IP is allowed to be in the DMZ by my router?

The problem is I'm tied to a single public IP at a time from the ISP. And everything has to go through the ancient MoCA (Ethernet over Coax) router (a Westell 9100EM). I can't even get a newer router from the ISP. All I could do is ask them to change my endpoint from MoCA to Ethernet so I can...

Hello folks... I am sick and tired of constantly fiddling with my static IP address on consoles and with my router in order to try and get Open NAT, or trying to choose which ONE of my many consoles get to be in the DMZ, only to have something reset my settings behind my back. Really sick of...

I'd like to chime in with this: If you intend to buy a plasma to play 30FPS limited console games, don't do it unless you are sure you can turn on motion interpolation (on some Samsung plasmas you can't)... because the resulting judder will be incredibly bad, to the point of being unplayable...

How do you get the 231 to do 75Hz? I tried when I first got mine, but never got it to work, so I gave up.

Not if you want DirectX 11.1 support. That was the deal breaker for me. I want to run Windows 8 in full glory eventually.

There is no $300 price point anymore. You're looking at $260 and $360 for anything with an OC, stock is $10 less. I just nabbed a 7870 because I needed (well, OK, WANTED) DirectX 11.1 and cool/quiet operation without spending a fortune. I was tempted to get a 7850 until I realized its not...

Totally agree with you. You can't beat the 7870 if you don't want your system to sound like a jet plane in games and only run 1920x1080 res like I do. I'm upgrading from a 4870x2 and CAN'T WAIT for my system to stop sounding like a jet plane and shutting down in the summer due to excess heat...

Actually, no, it won't affect the 7800, only the 7700 and 7900. In other words, the ones that were too old and slow, or too damn hot and loud, compared to the 7800 series. :) And I just bought a 7870 because Nvidia has nothing to compete with it in terms of performance vs heat/noise/power vs...

Ugh! Why did XFX make TWO flavors of the Black Edition 7850! This is so confusing. Why would they release a 7850 Black with 1 fan, and another with 2 fans?? I accidentally bought the single fan version from NewEgg thinking it was the "super quiet" version reviewed everywhere. But now I...

Well, why don't you read the side column in the Samsung review at: http://www.digitalversus.com/samsung-syncmaster-px2370-p357_8191_36.html Then come back and tell me where you think a crappy TN panel fits in the EA231WMi vs U2311H debate. :D As for your the second half of your question...

bonecandy, the first picture looks like possible backlight bleed, but the last two look like normal IPS off angle white glow. Do not confuse the two. One is a defect, the other just a limitation of the technology. In order to measure backlight bleed on an IPS like this, first, don't set your...

Glad I could be of help, Spectrum! I think you're like the 5th person to go with NEC after that review... where's my royalty check, NEC? :D

Yes, that will do it too, but bear in mind that the only way I found to get 75Hz working on DVI was to use PowerStrip. If you get it to work some other way, you may not see this problem. Do let me know!

Only this: if you start a game in a window and switch to full screen, the screen will go absolutely haywire and lose sync. No long term harm though. If you figure out a way to get 75Hz working without this kind of issue, please let me know!

Set it on sRGB and forget it.

No problems at all, and this is coming from a fast TN panel. See my review: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1518544&page=34

As long as it takes for you to realize that you should get an NEC EA231WMi instead. I have two perfect units. First try.

The stupid thing, the tech is ALREADY THERE. I have a Samsung PVA 52" TV that I bought TWO YEARS AGO, and it is 120Hz with virtually no input lag. It does have some backlight bleed and black crush when viewed head on (but this is a VA tech problem). My point is, the tech exists, but they...

Try Fry's if there is one in your area. Otherwise, try Amazon.com and Newegg.com with overnight shipping I guess!

You have to turn OFF Eco Mode, AND Auto Brightness AND Dynamic Contrast in the menu system to get it to stop auto dimming!! Also, download the NEC NaviSet software from NEC for display testing and software feature control...

Well, it's still a TN, but I have a Gateway FHD2400 for sale on eBay which works beautifully over HDMI with the PS3 or 360.

Yeah, there is a wide-gamut standard: you are guaranteed garish, overly saturated colors. :D

Perhaps those Korean engineers are too busy playing Starcraft II to make a good product?

Uhhhh... I don't think that would work... for the same reason that you can't just use a simple adapter like that to hook up a DVI video card to a monitor that only has DisplayPort (like the ACD). I think you'd need a $150+ signal converting box. The reason that adapter is $6 is likely because...

I agree that U2311h is much less AG coat heavy than EA231WMi, but I kept the NEC anyway because it is the better built, better performing (color-wise) monitor, with better features. I can't wait to try a glossy VA Benq! Someone please post purchase links as soon as they're available!

Good luck spinEcho! I actually ordered a second one for the wife. I'll let you guys know if it is as perfect as my first. Went with Buy.com again only because my first from there was perfect.

U2311h no question. TN sucks, end of story, and when fools stop buying them, we'll all be much better off.

No, I agree with him. With 16:9 I find everything fits in my field of view nicely from 2 or 3 feet away. With 16:10, I'm constantly looking up or down.

On that, at least, we can agree. Until then, I'll enjoy my EA231WMi. :)

Well, I give up. None of the INFs seems to work for 75Hz DVI, and while Powerstrip works, it has weird issues with games. For example, start a game in a window, and go to full screen, and the display goes NUTS! Better stick with 60Hz and try this again when I get a Display Port card.

CAUTION: When using the enhanced refresh rates, I encounter temporary display corruption when launching some games. If I knock things back to 60, everything is fine. This could be a bug with Powerstrip vs what Windows reports, or something else. I would just proceed with caution until I've...

Ok, I did not restart after trying the INF above, maybe that was my problem. I also generated a new INF with PowerStrip. Feel free to try both and let me know if one worked for you. ; Custom monitor information file - generated by PowerStrip 3.0, 8/16/2010 ; Copyright (c) 1995-2005, EnTech...

Hmm... actually, while I was able to install the above INF just fine, replacing my NEC one, Windows still didn't give me an option to go over 60Hz. Clearly something needs added somewhere. Where is an INF author when you need them?

Why don't you try this INF file? It was made using the same program used to create the INF file you mentioned previously, except it is a newer version of the program, and was created while attached to DVI running at 75Hz. Let me know if you have any success. I have no place to post the file for...