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RTX 5090 FE Molten 12VHPWR

I wouldn't hold my breath Doubtful anyone is going to be increasing connector sizes. There are too few issues. Those that do happen to melt, are blown out of proportion by the internet for clicks and views.
 
are closed said:
I wouldn't hold my breath Doubtful anyone is going to be increasing connector sizes. There are too few issues. Those that do happen to melt, are blown out of proportion by the internet for clicks and views.
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They could use roughly the same size connector with larger/longer and fewer pins while using a bigger wire gauge. Less than optimal pin and barrel mating connections won't cause such a problem - that we keep seeing all the time, unlike 8-pin power connections (which did happen, but were way, way more rare).

Hell, there was that one youtuber that used a car battery sized cable with a blade connector that was about the same size as the current 12VHPWR/12V2X6 connector. That works just fine, other than the cable being less bendable. That certainly won't melt at the connector and cable, ha! But seriously, the real commercial answer lies in-between what we have now, and that.
 
arestavo said:
The root of the problem lies with the connector (connector/pin size), though, not just the cable - that's more of a knock-on effect since the connector pins are so small. If that's what you meant, cool - please disregard. But simply increasing the wire gauge won't fix the connector melting issue - unless you also increase the connector and pin size in order to get the physical connections mated better as with the 8 pin connectors (less resistance at the pins with a suboptimal mating connection).
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Yes, that's what I meant, cable as in the whole assembly. I don't think wire gauge is an issue at all, it's not the wire itself that gets hot enough to melt the plastic. It can also be a oxidation thing, but that doesn't lift the blame from the design.
 
GoldenTiger said:
Only if you're a reviewer unplugging and replugging it 500,000 times, sure. If you're a normal user you don't need to worry about that.
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Just a random manufacturer.
It is quite common for terminals of this type to boast a mating cycle life of 30 cycles.
Some of them even have 20 cycles.

And if you had watched the HUB video carefully, you would have seen that the cable reaches a temperature of 175 °C before it melts —if the owner has a simple temperature sensor, it’s very easy to determine that the connector’s temperature isn’t 50–60 °C, but is significantly higher—if the cable doesn’t melt but is simply replaced with another one, that’s safety.

And yes, owners have to deal with this nonsense and worry about them even though they paid 4–5 thousand $$ for the card—thanks a lot, NVIDIA...
 
AVATARAT said:
Just a random manufacturer.
It is quite common for terminals of this type to boast a mating cycle life of 30 cycles.
Some of them even have 20 cycles.

And if you had watched the HUB video carefully, you would have seen that the cable reaches a temperature of 175 °C before it melts —if the owner has a simple temperature sensor, it’s very easy to determine that the connector’s temperature isn’t 50–60 °C, but is significantly higher—if the cable doesn’t melt but is simply replaced with another one, that’s safety.

And yes, owners have to deal with this nonsense and worry about them even though they paid 4–5 thousand $$ for the card—thanks a lot, NVIDIA...
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A temperature probe won't help you unless you have multiple probes being it's plastic the pin of the plug could already be damaged by the time a probe by the wire side trips
 
tunatime said:
A temperature probe won't help you unless you have multiple probes being it's plastic the pin of the plug could already be damaged by the time a probe by the wire side trips
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Have you tried this?
Because I've tried it and know from personal experience, and I see that there are others who do it, simply because it works.
My previous version had a fan on top that lowered the cable's temperature by about 15 °C.
 
AVATARAT said:
Have you tried this?
Because I've tried it and know from personal experience, and I see that there are others who do it, simply because it works.
My previous version had a fan on top that lowered the cable's temperature by about 15 °C.
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Yes my asrock PSU came with a temperature probe in the plug but when you plug it it's about a 1/2 inch form the plug side. By the time that thing trips my whole card would be melted so I added two probes. One under the backplate on the back side of the connector and one by the plug.
Even with a fan my connector was warm at about 120f..... So I added a old spare TR water block to the backside of the black plate and now my plug is room temperature. So yes I have played with temperature probes and just one inside the cable won't help much as the hot spot is on the PCB side
 
Well, the more cooling, the better.
The sensor has a single purpose—to indicate when the temperature of the connector or cable exceeds 212°F, which means that some pins have burned out and the cable needs to be replaced.
If anyone wants more detailed information, they should get WireView.
 
Tsumi said:
What you're not understanding is how the power delivery system works. It's not constant power like you're assuming.


Source: https://eureka.patsnap.com/article/multi-phase-vrms-powering-modern-cpus-and-gpus

In any case, a VRM can only step down voltage; it cannot increase voltage as your separate pin scenario implies (most CPUs and GPUs run above the 0.9 volts that your spreadsheet calculates).

Voltage monitoring does not require a shunt. It's directly monitored by any standard analog chip.
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Im not questioning your electronics experience, but from what im reading you didnt understand my simulation. I assumed, for simplicity, that the vrms are driving a constant power load ( the gpu). So just assume the gpu is runnng a relatively constant workload. I make this simplification because connectors burning is mostly a dc power question. Any transients or ac analysis should generally be irrelevant. In this scenario the multiple phases will be sharing the load equally. This is what multiphase vrms do (this does not contradict your link in any way). If a vrm is driving a constant power load, then (ideally) it will consume a constant power load irrespective of input voltage.

The fact that my input voltage drops to 0.8 volts or whatever it drops to is irrelevant to what i am showing. I can easily redo the simulation with slightly different resistor values, and it wont drop below 5 volts, for example, but the power being dissipated in that single pin will still be too high. If you dont trust me i can redo the simulation to show this when i have a minute.

Your right about the voltage monitoring thing. I just meant that if you have a common bus, but still wanted to measure per pin power, you would also need some way to measure current. Precision shunt resistors is one way to do that.
 
These meltdowns may overwhelmingly be caused by user error, but the fact it’s apparently so easy to mess up connecting means it’s still a bad design.

Maybe it’s the connector, maybe it’s the rail design on the card and the spec has no room for error and there are some bad MOSFETs in the batches.

Who knows but overall it’s too fragile and the costs of things going even slightly awry is too damned high.

So as things currently stand it’s just a bad connector.
 
AVATARAT said:
Well, the more cooling, the better.
The sensor has a single purpose—to indicate when the temperature of the connector or cable exceeds 212°F, which means that some pins have burned out and the cable needs to be replaced.
If anyone wants more detailed information, they should get WireView.
Click to expand...
Replace what? The card is probably already damaged by then and would probably need a new connector.....thoes pins are so small that I would bet my left nut that after they get hot they will be compromised in their ability to carry current. The only thing that actually helps it's something that watches the the per pin current.

Also buying something that adds another week spot into a already week system isn't the way. The only one I think people should consider is buying the PSUs that have the reading or don't worry about it any hope it doesn't die.
 
tunatime said:
Replace what? The card is probably already damaged by then and would probably need a new connector.....thoes pins are so small that I would bet my left nut that after they get hot they will be compromised in their ability to carry current. The only thing that actually helps it's something that watches the the per pin current.

Also buying something that adds another week spot into a already week system isn't the way. The only one I think people should consider is buying the PSUs that have the reading or don't worry about it any hope it doesn't die.
Click to expand...
I will say, while pricey, the PSU has worked well. It hasn't tripped its sensor but I have it reporting to MSI Afterburner (which always runs in the background for undervolt) so I can call it up and look any time, but also it'll alert at my setpoint (9a) which is lower than the hardware alert (12a).

If you are nervous, as I was, then I think it is worth getting. It's a good PSU and the monitoring seems to work as advertised and it monitors the leading indicator (current) not the lagging indicator (temperature). If I were to get something for temperature it would probably be the Corsair cable because as a passive device, that has a trip state that will happen even if active components fail.
 
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