LAGRUNAUER
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2006
- Messages
- 745
Thanks for the comprehensive answer.
My pleasure!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Thanks for the comprehensive answer.
Hmm, looks like a difficult job for me. I don't think this is something i can do myself. I also wouldn't know where to get a new FBT from.
I'm afraid the time has come to give up this monitor.
I would still check the tube with the CR70 or the CR7000 before a "bad tube" diagnostic is determined. Is the tube "dim" no matter how high you set the brightness? ... or does it have strong color casts (red, blue, green, magenta, or yellow)?
If all of above are "No" then based on what you are observing, and again without performing a CRT integrity test, I suspect the issue may be a faulty A-board.
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
@poordevil
Hm, zzcool also had this flashes at booting up. Also 3 or 4 times. But blue and green. But his monitor dont settled down after that. Maybe it's nearly the same problem. zzcool has sent his monitor to a repair shop. Maybe if he know what was wrong and he know a fix, he can help you. I would dont use or test it anymore, otherwise it will be damaged more maybe.
Jonathan's monitor had physical damage while in transit to Sweden. The hit the box sustained most likely was in the back of the unit when the A-Board and the neck of the tube (guns and grid) are located at. That is why the color flashes and the malfunction.
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
but you told me my electricity damaged it?
We assessed all what you mentioned to me on several emails... And what I told you in the end is that it may have been damaged in transit and/or in customs when they took it out for inspection. It is rare to me that this did not happened to the unit I sent to Netherlands along with yours and that one was not in the factory pack! Your was!
Please READ!!!! the emails I sent you before you explode like this on this forum. It is not the first time you have done this...
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
explode?
i am just very confuzed
as you seemed to be very sure on my electricity damaging it
i before said that it was probably damaged in the shipping but you said it was my electricity so it confuzes me seeing how now you say it's not
i am still taking it to a repair shop as we agreed but this confuzes me you were very sure it was my electricity that damaged it very and now your not that part confuzes me you even said you knew what happened after i mentiond the blinking light thing and i don't recall you saying you are sure that it got damaged in the shipping after you said i damaged it with my electricity
but i will take it to a repair shop so they can say what the problem is but sadly it will cost money to even take it there so thats why i havn't done it yet
and i hope you understand that it's not fun for me to have a brand new fw900 sitting on the floor that i paid almost everything i had for while im forced to use a 21 inch so please understand
all i want is for my monitor to be fixed so i can use it all of this just makes me very sad
but i take back what i said as i shouldn't have said it it just confuzed me i just want it fixed you have to understand how i feel about this
Jonathan:
You confused me with your postings and emails... Just read them all and then make an objective assessment of what you have've stated.
First, you said the the unit worked great and that you were very happy with it, but then you said that it was not OK. Then you stated that the unit does not work. At first, assessing your statements, and again WITHOUT ME PERFORMING A DIAGNOSTICS ON IT, it may have suffered peak voltage damage. But then after you stated that your home is properly wired and that you had an power strip connected to it (even when someone that had a similar problem recognized the power strip), you and I concluded that it may had suffered damaged during transit and/or when customs took it out of the box for inspection (if applicable).
Again, I cannot determine exactly what happened to this unit without testing it first, other than attesting that when it was packed and shipped, it was brand new and fully functional, and you received several pictures of the functional unit before packing and while it was being packed. So it left my lab functioning perfectly!
I told you several times to put in the box and send it back to me and I will repair it for free then send it back to you at my expense. My offer still stand...
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
UnkleVito, if you could provide some insight, I would appreciate it. I have an A7217A that has started acting a little strange when it is cold. When the monitor has just been turned on, there are two things:
1. The monitor's convergence seems off - items are blurry. It takes 2-3 minutes before I can read small text clearly @ 1920x1200.
2. The monitor's image size 'pulses' when i minimize/maximize a large, white window. With an all black window, the picture will fill the screen completely. When I maximize something with a white background, the entire picture seems to shrink slightly for a moment before returning to it's full size.
Do these sound related? Any idea what this might be? I have a spare FW900 that I may be able to scavenge parts from if I knew what I needed to swap. The other monitor has some discoloration (green tinge) issues, but maybe i'll get lucky... Any input would be much appreciated; I really love this monitor and have no desire to compromise with an LCD.
Based on what you are describing, and again, without performing a full diagnostic test on this unit, most likely the culprit is a faulty flyback transformer (FBT). We have parts available for this monitor.
Removing and installing the FBT is not an easy task for users with no soldering skills and/or no experience working inside a CRT, specially this particular monitor. If someone attempts to make the repairs and the tube is not discharged or the chassis not grounded, the tube may be damaged beyond repair and this monitor will be ruined.
My recommendation to you is to take the unit to a qualified service center and have a technician replace the part for you. Please note that this part, once installed, needs adjustment (there are two pods on the FBT that need to be adjusted via MEME & crosshatch patterns).
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
my fw900 is showing these EXACT problems+flashing as described already so it is the flyback transformer? if so is it more clear what may have caused it?
and what you said adjustments is that simple to do for technicians who knows about the monitor (they said they do) or is it possible that the picture will get worse after it is repaired?
The flashing... Is it present when the unit is first turned on or does it appears afterwards? Which color is flashing and how long before you get a normal displayed image?
The GDM-FW900 is a very particular CRT that unless the service center you are planning to take it to perform the repair has previously worked on this line of monitors, I wouldn't take it to them no matter what they tell you. The risk is to end up with the tube fried and I've seen it happen many times over. Find out which service center. In you are is "Sony Authorized" then take it to them. They still out there...
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
did you see the video i sent you?
here is the video again of the VERY first start i did on it
http://speedy.sh/hBBD6/fw900.mp4
it flashes a few times when it starts from cold (usually lasts for a few seconds then it dosn't happen again untill next time it's started from cold) it is extremely blurry when starting from cold which corrects itself as it warms up text is barely readable it zooms in and out of the picture as you maximize windows (and not always) (this corrects itself after warmup aswell)
so now you might know what the problem is and what caused it? so it is the flyback transformer is so what may have caused it?
and yes the service center is sony authorized i was led to them about 6 months ago when i called sony for calibration of my old fw900
when i asked them if they know how to open it and how it works they said
(yes we have all technical information on this one)
all i want is for my fw900 to work 100% perfectly no problems what so ever just as a brand new fw900
my old fw900 showed a very good black when starting from absolute cold my new fw900 showed a very green black is this a problem or is it just that all fw900's are different? as i'd love for my new fw900 not to have a green tint black when starting from cold (i am fully aware that the picture gets better when it warms up but my old fw900 had a greyish nice black while the new one has a green tint black why is that?)
i simpy want my new fw900 to work perfectly with absolutely no problems what so ever no issues nothing just the same as a brand new fw900
and you said the trailing is caused by the location i am at does that mean there is no possible way to not have any trailing or ghosting not even if i buy a better cable?
is this possible after it gets repaired that the damage did not cause any permanent damage
i have put off playing far cry 3 and watching the dark knight rises as i am saving those two for when i have my fw900 perfectly working again as ut would calm me down alot knowing the problem can be fixed without any permanent damage or anything caused by this
and just to make sure you didn't missunderstand me regarding electricity
i used one of these for my fw900 (this is what it looks like)
http://www.electricswitchesandsocke...d_switched_power_extension_socket-309695.html
Jonathan:
The assessment I made about the unit your were sent was based on all your emails and discussions we had about those observed problems. Once again, I cannot determine exactly what happened to your unit because I have not perform the diagnostics and tests on the unit, so all my assumptions and conclusions were based on your observations and your emails including the videos.
My offer still stands; and this time I rest my case.
I will be waiting for the monitor to arrive to my lab.
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
I'm suprised someone still has these parts nowadays. Thanks for the offer, but i'm afraid this won't fix everything. Due to the age i think more parts are going to wear out soon and it will be a neverending story. If they'd sell these monitors brand new i'd have bought one, but replacing parts is not something i'm going to begin with.The issue you have is an easy fix and the part to replace without performing soldering is the mounted D-board and we have the part in stock. It is not difficult to replace the part but I recommend to have a technician replace the part for you.
Hope this helps....
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito,
and that the right side and top auf the whole pictures is stretched over the viewable image area until the monitor is warmed up...
This is normal i think. It happens because the shadowmask/aperture-grille changes shape when it warms. Metal expands when it get warmer and contracts when it get cooler.
I recently found an unused dell p1130 trinitron. Its perfect except a small geometry problem: The top and bottom of the image is a bit horizontally bent. The image "goes down" about 2mm on the left and right compared to the center. It is not a big problem but it would be nice to have a perfect image
So I took apart the monitor and connected my serial<>TTL converter cable. I started windas and selected dell p1130 and COM1+MANUAL under config. But when i press save data the program crashes. I did convergence calibrations on my fw900 a few months ago with the same computer and serial<>TTL cable and it worked perfectly.
Do anyone have an idea why it is crashing? Is the max232 chip broken maybe?
If i get windas to work again, what values should i change to correct the geometry problem?
@SH1
WOW! If this will really exist, that would be awesome! No one gave me this suggestion until now. Is this pot maybe existing or real exist? I only knowed that there are 2 focus pots and dont beliefed that here is something other. What are the any pots by the way? 2 for focus, 2 for H.TRAP and V.TRAP or what? But this problem i only have at the TOP and not at the bottom. If i change the H.TRAP then also the bottom is unequal but the top is equal or do I missunderstanding something?
Wow, nice. Can i also only change the bow effect of the top edge and let the bottom be like it is? Because only the top is wrong...
@ ki_cz
Why dont you use an Displayport to DVI for the LG and an DVI-VGA/BNC cable for the Sony?
I used the Saphire Active Displayport to vga adapter and Got my 3 monitor Eyefinity setup to work and have no flickering. Using a XFX 5870, 2 V7 22" LCD monitors (one on the Displayport adapter), and the FW-900 for the center monitor. No flickering whatsoever. Each monitor is running 1680x1050, and runs in eyefinity at 5040x1050 or 5260x1050 with bezel compensation. Catalyst 10.6 drivers.
Also to note: My trinitron is running 85hz and the lcds are running 60hz in the eyefinity group. So it appears that eyefinity groups just need to run the same resolution on each monitor, but the monitors can run different refresh rates.
Note: I could not get my CRT to run all the resolutions it supports on the displayport adapter for some reason (i think max was 1280x1024 or something close to that, but can run the 22" LCD at its native 1680x1050 on the displayport adapter. Might have something to do with running higher refresh rates on the CRT. It seemed as if it wasn't reading all the EDID info for supported resolutions on the CRT. Plugging it into the DVI port with vga adapter worked fine. One LCD is plugged into the other DVI port and the other is into the DP adapter.
Along with the EDID info... I had to change the EDID info for the FW900 and set the physical dimentions set for the FW900 to match those of my 22" LCDs in order to be able to enable bezel compensation. I used Powerstrip to do this. No special cables needed. EDID can be updated through the VGA cable.