Just got a 3008WFP. *snicker* Black level needs help. -Warning: Steel your nerves-

Would be interesting if it would be possible to chuck in the logic board from a U3011 since there isn't much difference in the panel but the 3011 has less input lag and much better menus.
 
And here it is. Good boards from thrashed display put in nice display with bad board.

IMG_2176s.jpg
 
Total cost was:

$40: Broken to shit 3008WFP
$40: Brand new stand - didn't need this but whatever
$580: Display that had a good panel and just wouldn't turn on.
-------
$660
- whatever selling the scraps makes

Among the scraps:

Good stand
LCD T-con board
full set of backlight lamps - near new
Inverter
Card Reader module
Power Supply board
logic board
slightly damaged rear cover

Keeping the inverter and lamps would give the display a new lease on life in a few years when it starts to dim. I'll probably keep those and maybe the card reader since the CF card slot is going to have the hell used out of it and I need a spare I can swap when replacing the connector.

This is a ten year display for me.
 
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I'd love a 3008 for a second rig and as a retro gaming monitor due to its composite input. It also looks very classy.

Might look into doing something similar depending on how much skilled electrical work such a project would take!! D:
 
I swear this is the first monitor I've ever owned where turning down the brightness is an absolute requirement for me. At stock brightness, everything looked too bright and cartoony. At minimum brightness, it was what I call normal. At full brightness, I was just floored. I have never seen anything like that before. These backlight lamps are going to last a long time.
 
Great work, man. Thanks for sharing your story with us.


Did you snap any pics of the disassembly/reassembly?
 
Low Roller said:
Great work, man. Thanks for sharing your story with us.


Did you snap any pics of the disassembly/reassembly?
Click to expand...

I didn't get any pics of that because it was a race against time under really sad circumstances (see my Dashcat2 build thread for that), but since I had to reassemble the junk display in order to get it in the shipping box, I'm going to have to disassemble that again in order to harvest the parts I intend to keep or sell.

I will offer one tip though. The front bezel comes off first and the control button board is screwed to that with not much slack on the long ribbon cable that snakes back to the logic board. Be careful when disassembling not to stress the ribbon cable too much and also, during assembly, angle the ribbon cable such that you have more slack when screwing the button board back onto the front bezel.

As for how you get the thing apart beyond the front bezel, I removed all of the screws visible from the front of the display when the bezel is removed. Four big ones at the corners and many smaller ones all along the sides. This joins the plastic the bezel attaches to to the back of the unit. You have to remove the plastic piece because it holds your card reader in place. When the plastic piece is removed, turn the whole thing over and lift the back off. From there, it's as simple as any other monitor.
 
Only found this thread now. Kudos to this fix by the poster. All hail MisterDNA!
I managed to score myself a 3008wfp for $650 too, with 2 months warranty too! Bargain hunter represent! The monitor is such a beaut.

(My 3008 got an edge chipped apparently during some time in its 2 and 10 months of history going from Australia to Canada. I don't know if I should attempt to fix this edge on the enclosure...)
 
Updated figure:

Total cost was:

$40: Broken to shit 3008WFP
$40: Brand new stand - didn't need this but whatever
$580: Display that had a good panel and just wouldn't turn on.
-------
$660
- $250 for the scraps
-------
$410 total for a 3008WFP

(It would have been $370 if I hadn't bought the stand.)

That's the end of that project.
 
wow nice. you sure saved a ton of money by buying broken stuff and fix it yourself.
 
Hey [H] guys, I thought this was an appropriate place to ask as I have a dead 3008WFP currently in my possession. I have tried replacing a shottky diode, however the panel only live for approx. 10 minutes and has since died again. I'll admit my soldering skills are nothing short of poor....

Does anyone have any idea where I may be able to source a 3008WFP Power Supply??

Cheers, Fuus
 
I simply must give an update to this thread. Over 7 years later with proof via the background, this 3008WFP is still plugging along so hard. I actually like it more than my U3415W for a lot of things, especially when I play games that couldn't deal with Superwide (I'm looking at you, Terraria.)

IMG_8208.jpg


And to prove it's not an old photo, Starman from the SpaceX Falcon Heavy launch.
IMG_8209.jpg


It's worth mentioning that I run this panel at 75% brightness now, but that's mostly because the light in my lab is bright as hell. These panels are still boss.
 
I had a 3008 back in 2012-14. Loved it, but it got destroyed during a move. Nice to see an old school beast like yours still kicking. :)
 
Nice to see another 3008WFP. Got mine in March 2009. 9 years later it has one problem: a yellow line down the center of the screen if it is cold (like after first turning it on). Once it warms up the line disappears. I assume it's a connection issue but I'm not opening it up to look. Tempting to get a UP3017 for $550 as a "spare/replacement" though.
 
That's a sweet price for a 1600p monitor, although with 32" 4k IPS models available starting at $400 unless you really needed 16:10 or spent a lot of time in an application that has DPI scaling problems I'd probably go with the higher resolution for less model.
 
I still use 2 of these monitors at work. I have a hp omen 32 2560x1440 with a 43" 4k at home. I like the work setup just as much as home minus the heat production off the older screens. It is amazing how good these monitors were at release and it is neat to see this one still running great after repair.
 
I should update that the 3008WFP finally died this past Summer. It's likely power supply related, but I haven't looked into it yet because I replaced it with a floor-model Samsung 43" 4K LED Smart TV. Granted, I had to adapt the DP output on my lab computer with one of those DP-HDMI adapters so it's only running 4K30p 4:4:4, but it works and doesn't even get warm.

I'm assuming it's a capacitor issue. I'm going to fix it for my daughter. She has taken an interest in photography and life's too short for crappy displays.
 
-buys broken monitor
-buys another broken monitor
-uses parts to build working monitor
-keeps spare parts to extend usable life
- repaired display runs almost 10 years

Yep, that checks out. Someone give MisterDNA a gold [H].
 
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Update almost three years later.
The problems the panel was experiencing were traced to the insulation on the wires between the Logic Board and TCON on the panel basically turning into powder. This is the same thing that happened to the RoboSapien V2 robot. I never could scare up a new cable or rebuild the original. In 2021 when I was ousted (long, shitty story*) from the house I lived in, I left the 3008 behind.
 
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