Finally finished setting things up in the man cave. Not nearly as elaborate as some of you guys, but it gets the job done.
Sorry for the shitty phone pics:
Quick search shows that at least one Onkyo model from a few years ago, the TX-NR609, supports VGA in.
I'm also in the same boat as the OP, and found this combination to work quite well:
Tomee Dreamcast VGA cable
OREI VGA -> HDMI converter box
I had originally tried the Sewell...
The first 3 games on that list had very limited production runs, accounting for their current high resale value. I remember picking up Xenoblade at release for $50, and then selling it on Ebay for over $100 a few months later after I finished it.
Can we please just get this thread locked? It's obvious that the Wii U isn't "done" until Nintendo announces that they are no longer producing/supporting the console. Until that time comes, this whole thread is just pointless.
Anyone know if the Best Buy exclusive variant W700B uses the same panel as the W800B? Best as I can tell, the only major differences is that the W700B has a different color bezel/stand (silver vs black) and lacks the 3d capabilities of the W800B. It's also $100 cheaper, which is a great...
Tried running an extension cord to the receiver from a bathroom outlet that's definitely on a separate circuit, and no dice - still getting the static. I'll try switching the PSUs in both rigs next.
I just recently put a GTX 970 in my main rig, and ever since, I've been getting buzzing/static/interference coming through my receiver (refurbed Onkyo TX-SR507), but only when the GPU is being used. While on the desktop, there's no static/interference at all, but as soon as I bring up a game...
For me, it goes like this:
First-person = kb/m = normal
Third-person = controller = inverted
I don't play first-person games on consoles. If a third-person game (either on PC or console) doesn't have an option to invert both axes, then I simply won't play it
Double-check that you've got things connected on the speaker end properly, in particular the metal jumper. For a single amp connection, the jumper needs to remain connected. You can then use either the top or bottom set of binding posts to connect to the amp, though I think Polk recommends you...
Compared to DS1, did they add some additional "dead" frames into the end of your attack animations that prevent you from blocking immediately after finishing an attack? I recall having no trouble at all with transitioning from attack -> block in DS1, but I'm getting wrecked ALOT in DS2 in...
I just picked up the Mario/Luigi Wii U bundle from Wal-Mart this morning on my way to work (they price-matched the Target sale price for $275), and then got in on the 3-for-2 deal at Target with Super Mario 3D World, Wind Waker HD, and Mario Kart 8. Can't wait to get home and start digging in...