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Don't you love it when they give so much details?pny 5080
melted 12vhpwr
View attachment 832678
https://x.com/unikoshardware/status/2113556262814425231
that is a 5080. so new thread for that ?pny 5080
melted 12vhpwr
View attachment 832678
https://x.com/unikoshardware/status/2113556262814425231
Doing so seems a bit overly-specific.that is a 5080. so new thread for that ?
I don't think that's necessary. It's likely just user error, or a bad 12VPHWR adapter. The RTX 5080 pulls about 330W max, give or take a little more depending on the model/BIOS. Way different than the RTX 4090 (~450W) and RTX 5090 (~550W), but maybe there was a transient spike up to 600W's? Maybe he was using DLSS 5.0? The RTX 3070 Ti can get close to 300W's, and that's been around for over 5 years with no similar issues being reported.that is a 5080. so new thread for that ?
I doubt a 600W transient spike would do it as this sort of damage requires time to accumulate. Also the card's power supply would limit it before it got there. The TDP rating is a continuous rating, so transient spiking above the average (330W for the 5080) is already baked into the cake.I don't think that's necessary. It's likely just user error, or a bad 12VPHWR adapter. The RTX 5080 pulls about 330W max, give or take a little more depending on the model/BIOS. Way different than the RTX 4090 (~450W) and RTX 5090 (~550W), but maybe there was a transient spike up to 600W's? Maybe he was using DLSS 5.0? The RTX 3070 Ti can get close to 300W's, and that's been around for over 5 years with no similar issues being reported.
And poof! With one little mouse click, life is better.That's why so far he is the only one on my block list the guy is retarded and or just likes to be a dick or is an Nvidia bot that adds nothing to the discussions. Pointless to engage with it I encourage everyone to block him cuz it's the only way it shuts up and you stop seeing replies saying something like prove it Nvidia says it fine..show us the numbers ECT every 3rd or 4th post over and over for pages.
I thought the BIOS was locked down by Nvidia. They have done this since Pascal. Did someone break the encryption?I’m wondering if this 5080 user was running a modified bios? I think we may see more of these power cable issues if people try to up the limits even higher.
https://www.techspot.com/news/114257-mod-nvidia-geforce-owners-run-custom-vbios-without.htmlI thought the BIOS was locked down by Nvidia. They have done this since Pascal. Did someone break the encryption?
Oh wow, that isn't very smart. In a lot of cases I'm thinking that's like giving a toddler a loaded gun. Unlike shunt modding, which can likely be detected, this doesn't alter the card at all. So some user cranks their board up to 800W, the connector burns up, and they RMA it with "I was just minding my own business and this connector melted!". I wonder if Nvidia has non-volatile memory on the board that records the max power level it was run at. BMW has this. Go blow up a BMW motor and try to warranty it and the first thing they will do is dump the ECU to see if you did it.
Im not going to restart the debate, but just curious. When you say load balancing do you mean some form of current balancing or something different?I still think there is a real issue here with stock cards as der8auer's videos clearly show the problem at spec power these boards really should have load balancing. Unfortunately, the presence of these tools muddies the water.
Current balancing, load balancing - tomato, tomahto. They are the same thing, and no, my opinion has not changed.Im not going to restart the debate, but just curious. When you say load balancing do you mean some form of current balancing or something different?
Just curious if your opinion has changed or no.
Interesting. Do you also think the following 3 are the same?Current balancing, load balancing - tomato, tomahto. They are the same thing, and no, my opinion has not changed.
If i was nVidia, I'd check the BIOS itself; and if not stock either deny warranty repair automatically or boot the card up, at which point 800W = warranty denied. At which point the customer can choose between paying the non-warranty cost of the repair or having the new plug removed and card returned unfixed.Oh wow, that isn't very smart. In a lot of cases I'm thinking that's like giving a toddler a loaded gun. Unlike shunt modding, which can likely be detected, this doesn't alter the card at all. So some user cranks their board up to 800W, the connector burns up, and they RMA it with "I was just minding my own business and this connector melted!". I wonder if Nvidia has non-volatile memory on the board that records the max power level it was run at. BMW has this. Go blow up a BMW motor and try to warranty it and the first thing they will do is dump the ECU to see if you did it.
Nvidia isn't limiting the power because they don't want people to have fun, it is a hard limit determined by the power handling of the GPU and power supply as well as the thermal performance of the cooling solution. Power handling of the power supply is limited by space and cost. It takes a wealth of knowledge and experience to set these limits. Anybody mucking with it has to be very careful. This is not overclocking a 100W CPU, this is over six times more than that. One may be able to hold the core temp down with an effective water cooling setup, but the power components still have to handle the power.
I still think there is a real issue here with stock cards as der8auer's videos clearly show the problem at spec power these boards really should have load balancing. Unfortunately, the presence of these tools muddies the water.
It sounds like the method doesnt flash anything to the board. So the hardware appears stock if my understanding is correctIf i was nVidia, I'd check the BIOS itself; and if not stock either deny warranty repair automatically or boot the card up, at which point 800W = warranty denied. At which point the customer can choose between paying the non-warranty cost of the repair or having the new plug removed and card returned unfixed.
That's how I read it too.It sounds like the method doesnt flash anything to the board. So the hardware appears stock if my understanding is correct
I think so depending on exactly what you mean.Interesting. Do you also think the following 3 are the same?
1) current balancing
2) power dissapation balancing of the wires
3) power load balancing of the vrms
"That's not true, JD, only 3 apartment complexes have been taken over by Tren de Aragua."This tread would need 750 melted 5090's in order to reach 0.5% failure rate globally(conservatively)
Facts do not scare for feelings.
Ya it does seem likely that there is something else going on with a 5080. Since it is literally drawing about half the wattage max, it means that you could have a total failure of 3 wires and still likely be in the spec. Short term spikes aren't going to cause a melt as, well, they are short term. It takes time for heat to accumulate.I don't think that's necessary. It's likely just user error, or a bad 12VPHWR adapter. The RTX 5080 pulls about 330W max, give or take a little more depending on the model/BIOS. Way different than the RTX 4090 (~450W) and RTX 5090 (~550W), but maybe there was a transient spike up to 600W's? Maybe he was using DLSS 5.0? The RTX 3070 Ti can get close to 300W's, and that's been around for over 5 years with no similar issues being reported.
That's actually true for most power systems. High end 4000 and 5000 series video cards? Not so much.Means a lot has to go wrong before you are getting in to melty territory.
erek, I'm not sure what you are trying to get here. I have criticized the need for these "do-dads" but that is leveled at Nvidia. There is no reason to think this device will not work to solve the melting issue. I don't have one of these, nor one of the affected cards, but from what I've read, as long as the device is not giving an alarm you should be fine.
i have connected everything except that shutdown cable because it will take more effort than i liked... taking out the GPU to route the wireerek, I'm not sure what you are trying to get here. I have criticized the need for these "do-dads" but that is leveled at Nvidia. There is no reason to think this device will not work to solve the melting issue. I don't have one of these, nor one of the affected cards, but from what I've read, as long as the device is not giving an alarm you should be fine.
It's also good in it has automatic shutdown just in case nobody is around when Chernobyl decides to go off. It also looks like this shutdown is initiated directly through the motherboard power button so it even bypasses that kluge called windows. Hold that button four seconds and the system turns off, SW intervention not required.
Even the 4090 there's quite a bit of overhead. Rated power for 8-pin is 252w, specified is 150w so 1.68 safety factor. Rated for 12vhpwr is 684w, specified power for the 4090 is 450w so 1.52 safety factor. Less, but not a ton less. Only the 5090 is pushing things real close to the limit.That's actually true for most power systems. High end 4000 and 5000 series video cards? Not so much.
Now ask about the percentage of 5090 that has a melting power plug, you are almost there.
msi 5090 gaming trioNow ask about the percentage of 5090 that has a melting power plug, you are almost there.
msi 5090 gaming trio
melted 16 pin 12vhpwr
View attachment 832940
https://x.com/unikoshardware/status/2114031825819693384
might be sarcasmapologies for not getting this
can you explain like, I am a 2 year old, what is the 'mistake' here ???
https://www.reddit.com/r/MSI_Gaming/comments/1xec771/burned_5090_will_they_rma/
Sample size of one is the wrong answer, you can use AI, you have demonstrated that, but it looks like your bias is preventing you from asking the proper questions.msi 5090 gaming trio
melted 16 pin 12vhpwr
View attachment 832940
https://x.com/unikoshardware/status/2114031825819693384
Auto shutdown can be configured either on the device itself or by software. By the way, all settings are saved on the device so the software doesn't have to be running for it to do its thing. The auto-shutdown configuration options are comprehensive but I stick with the defaults so it would be less likely for Thermal Grizzly to deny warranty claims for melted connectors while their product is being used. Actually, that's why I chose the WireView Pro II, they've been fairly explicit and transparent about their warranty on melted connectors and how that has factored in the pricing of their product. That, and having multiple thermal sensors on the GPU connector side.Does the WireView provide a software method to automatically shutdown the board?
palit 5090Sample size of one is the wrong answer, you can use AI, you have demonstrated that, but it looks like your bias is preventing you from asking the proper questions.
Makes you wonder.
So you keep posting like you got a point.palit 5090
16 pin 12vhpwr melted
View attachment 832976
https://x.com/unikoshardware/status/2113666888127635694
yea, almost every day there's multiple new reports of a failed connector nowSo you keep posting like you got a point.
Care to tell me what percentage you are at now?
The 4090 also only has two load balancers, previous cards had 3. The 5090 is really bad, as it only has one and the highest load.Even the 4090 there's quite a bit of overhead. Rated power for 8-pin is 252w, specified is 150w so 1.68 safety factor. Rated for 12vhpwr is 684w, specified power for the 4090 is 450w so 1.52 safety factor. Less, but not a ton less. Only the 5090 is pushing things real close to the limit.
What else besides too much power can possibly melt the connector?When you see something like a 5080 melting, that isn't because there's too much power going in the connector, unless they bypassed limits and OC'd it. That means there was another issue, probably a number of other issues.